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Old 09-11-2017, 03:29 PM   #21331
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazyced View Post
Are OEM teardrop rims known to overheat the brakes when used aggressively (lapping, autocross)?
yes! teardrops are horrible as they allow no frontal air flow to be drawn in to help cool the brakes. it was a night and day difference back in 2004 when i went from teardrops to G20 wheels.
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Old 09-11-2017, 05:57 PM   #21332
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Anyone know anybody running either of these manifolds on an sr20det? If you have a video link, please let me know!
Looks like they retain stock turbo location, should install easily. The "long" runner manifold will sound rowdier.


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Old 09-11-2017, 06:52 PM   #21333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazyced View Post
Are OEM teardrop rims known to overheat the brakes when used aggressively (lapping, autocross)?
Even my Z32 brakes would fade even with wide open FN01R-C's at lapping days.

That is, until I changed the brake pad compound. I don't know what the old pads were, probably like some stock replacement ceramics or something. I swapped to Hawk HP+ and problem solved. My trouble was always water temps, so after swapping to HP+ my water temp would signal the end of my session, instead of brake fade previously.

With better tires and cooling I would have gone DTC-60 instead. But the HP+ were perfect for what my car was capable of.

Looks like HP+ is as good as it gets for autocross too. They do have fantastic cold bite.


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Old 09-11-2017, 07:04 PM   #21334
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Originally Posted by Crazyced View Post
Are OEM teardrop rims known to overheat the brakes when used aggressively (lapping, autocross)?
Z32s had OEM air defectors. They bolted right up to my S14, might be able to fit an S13.

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Old 09-11-2017, 07:29 PM   #21335
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Is there a "Tow rigs/setups" thread already? To post your trucks/trailers etc.


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Old 09-11-2017, 09:56 PM   #21336
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Quote:
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Looks like they retain stock turbo location, should install easily. The "long" runner manifold will sound rowdier.
Similar to this?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b_wyQX_9LvQ

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Is there a "Tow rigs/setups" thread already? To post your trucks/trailers etc.
Hasn't been active for years.

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=434425&page=2
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Old 09-12-2017, 04:47 AM   #21337
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazyced View Post
Are OEM teardrop rims known to overheat the brakes when used aggressively (lapping, autocross)?
It's not the wheels so much as it's the brake pads. OE pads heat up and fade really fast. Old ass SER (SR powered)Sentra's have the same style wheels and many think the same thing. It's the choice of pad. Stepping up to Stop Tech Sport pads, rotors, and ss lines will be a way cheaper solution than wheels and tires, or allows you to save up for the 'better grip' solution, For free air to your brakes, just zip tie in some flex tubing from the front, diy ducts work.
Like the other guy said, FNO1's didn't solve the problem, and they are open.

On pads: Watch out you do not put race type pads on your street car. They take longer to heat up, and remove braking distance because you are not hard on them to heat them up. Sport/Stage I/Street-Track is as hard a pad as you want to run on your daily. How well does StopTech Sport level work? In my zenki, I am STILL trying to get my stopping distance back to the stop line, not ten feet back. The first ten feet was easy to fix, but 20' of brand new extra braking distance is GOOD.
StopTech Centric upgraded OE calipers, Sport Rotors, Sport Pads, Sport SS Lines, Dot 3/4 Fluid)
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Old 09-12-2017, 08:14 AM   #21338
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Quote:
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Is there a "Tow rigs/setups" thread already? To post your trucks/trailers etc.


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Nah, make one. This sounds rad. I wanna see everyone's cool stuff, budget and ballin'.
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Old 09-12-2017, 08:43 AM   #21339
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Nah, make one. This sounds rad. I wanna see everyone's cool stuff, budget and ballin'.

There is one lol we need to revive it. I think it could use a better civilized title though...

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Old 09-12-2017, 09:37 AM   #21340
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Revive that ish, dawg. I'll post pics in there later too.
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Old 09-12-2017, 11:26 AM   #21341
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I'm Redline View Post
It's not the wheels so much as it's the brake pads. OE pads heat up and fade really fast. Old ass SER (SR powered)Sentra's have the same style wheels and many think the same thing. It's the choice of pad. Stepping up to Stop Tech Sport pads, rotors, and ss lines will be a way cheaper solution than wheels and tires, or allows you to save up for the 'better grip' solution, For free air to your brakes, just zip tie in some flex tubing from the front, diy ducts work.
Like the other guy said, FNO1's didn't solve the problem, and they are open.

On pads: Watch out you do not put race type pads on your street car. They take longer to heat up, and remove braking distance because you are not hard on them to heat them up. Sport/Stage I/Street-Track is as hard a pad as you want to run on your daily. How well does StopTech Sport level work? In my zenki, I am STILL trying to get my stopping distance back to the stop line, not ten feet back. The first ten feet was easy to fix, but 20' of brand new extra braking distance is GOOD.
StopTech Centric upgraded OE calipers, Sport Rotors, Sport Pads, Sport SS Lines, Dot 3/4 Fluid)
Thanks guys. Basically I've had a 92 project hatch for a while, it has all the goodies, SR20, 5 lugs, Z32 brakes on 4 corners, coilovers, adjustable arms, etc. But the rust on it takes too long to fix and a bunch of questionable stuff was done to it overall.

Fast forward to this weekend, bought a bone stock 89. Completely unmolested, even came with the sunroof cover. The long term plan is to swap all the good stuff from the old to the new. But considering I only drove the other one once in 2 years before striping it all down. I decided to have fun as is with the bone stock setup 1st. That being said, I didn't want to buy new 4 lug rims knowing I had 5 lugs waiting down the pipe. I ordered an ACT 6 puck, a short throw shifter, clutch line and some RE-71Rs for the stock rims. With some good rotors and HP+ I guess I should be set for my 1st autocross.

The car is dedicated to track. I guess I could try to fab something similar to the Z32 air deflectors. Also why not DOT 5.1?
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Old 09-12-2017, 12:56 PM   #21342
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The car is dedicated to track. I guess I could try to fab something similar to the Z32 air deflectors. Also why not DOT 5.1?
DOT 5.1 is fine, if not a bit overkill.

I actually haven't checked up on fluids in a while and only remembered that DOT 5 was silicon based and couldn't be mixed. Did a quick search on 5.1 just now. Glad to see DOT 5.1 is glycol based and totally compatible with DOT 3/4.
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Old 09-12-2017, 02:00 PM   #21343
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Hopefully I can get some insight into this but in the south east.
Is 2700$ pretty much the going price for SR swaps from importers these days? Comes with a 30day warranty.
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Old 09-12-2017, 02:12 PM   #21344
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honestly man, your best bet anymore is to just build one. you can pick up a long block for $300-$400, trans for $200-$300... take the money you just saved and spend the rest on things like a brand new wiring harness, clutch setup, turbo, bottom end and head refresh etc.

anything past $1800 for a motor set anymore is a bit rough and not worth it.
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Old 09-12-2017, 02:27 PM   #21345
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazyced View Post
The car is dedicated to track. I guess I could try to fab something similar to the Z32 air deflectors. Also why not DOT 5.1?
SPL Tension Rods + SPL Brake deflectors would be both a nice upgrade and tested for brake cooling.

It basically bolts right into the Tension rods. Obviously not nearly as cheap as other solutions, but if your car is track dedicated then its a solid upgrade for the car.

Should run about $300.
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Old 09-12-2017, 05:22 PM   #21346
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Timing is off about a tooth. The down on power part, shitty idle, backfire, AND stutter is the tell. Make sure your TDC is TDC or you gonna bend valve and , well go through what I did...spend more than just rebuilding head, car will be down two years, bank account will empty because oh, well it's on stands, I should get this part, oooohhhh cool, need one of those too, smmfh, two years later and now it's running, but waiting for steering rack rebuild at my friend's shop...but it RUNS!
UPDATE:car is now begining to frequently shut off while slowing down. Like when i get to a stop sign or a light. Starts up with no problems and hangs around the 500rpm range. shut off at least 6 times when i was on campus looking for parking because of all the stop signs haven't had time to check timing because of school and working full time as before any input is welcomed please
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Old 09-12-2017, 07:33 PM   #21347
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On pads: Watch out you do not put race type pads on your street car. They take longer to heat up, and remove braking distance because you are not hard on them to heat them up.
In addition to this, once the pads are warmed up, they might be too agressive for your tires. I was only running 300TW summer tires with the HP+ and I could lock them up very easily. With a 200TW tire like Dunlop Z2, Hankook RS3 or Bridgestone RE71R, the HP+ pads would have been perfect. In fact, the HP+ might not have even had enough heat capacity for extended sessions on track. That's where the DTC-60's would come in.

So in short, choose upgraded brake pads based on your tires, ratio of track to street driving, and how long you're out on track.

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Also why not DOT 5.1?
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DOT 5.1 is fine, if not a bit overkill.

I actually haven't checked up on fluids in a while and only remembered that DOT 5 was silicon based and couldn't be mixed. Did a quick search on 5.1 just now. Glad to see DOT 5.1 is glycol based and totally compatible with DOT 3/4.
I was under the impression they couldn't be mixed?

There are some fantastic choices in DOT4 brake fluid. ATE Type 200 is probably the best value, and Castrol SRF has the abosulte highest dry and wet boiling points of any DOT4 fluid on the market. There are some choices in between those two from Motul and Stoptech as well.

I personally ran Type 200 and it served me well for lapping days. It has high boiling points, a 3 year service life and is very cost-effective: about $20 for a Liter. I was tempted to get SRF, but it's about $70 / Liter and only has a 1 year service life. It's probably overkill for anything short of world class racecar.
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Old 09-12-2017, 08:18 PM   #21348
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I used to use ATE and whatnot, but after a couple instances where I was blowing through fluid trying to get everything bled properly I just went to the valvoline stuff that is locally available at every parts store. The dry boiling point is good enough, and I've never had a problem.

As far as pads, for a decent street pad I do like the Stoptechs (I have them in my autocross BRZ and my miata). If you're going to be doing track stuffs I'm of the mind that you should have a second set of pads + rotors rather than trying one brake pad to do it all.
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Old 09-13-2017, 04:19 AM   #21349
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I was under the impression they couldn't be mixed?
DOT 5 can't be mixed. DOT 5.1 however can be. There's DOT 3, 4, 5, & 5.1. 5 is the odd man out that can't be mixed since it's silicon based.

That said, after looking into it further, most quality DOT 3/4 fluids have higher boiling points than the 5.1 standard minimums anyway. So use good fluids.
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Old 09-14-2017, 06:04 AM   #21350
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Anyone know what the deal is on Enkei RPF1's in White? I know I see people with them. Are they just custom?
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Old 09-14-2017, 06:12 AM   #21351
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I've noticed some fluid seems to be seeping from my trans drain plug. Is there a recommended tape or sealer I should put on the drain plug?
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Old 09-14-2017, 11:36 AM   #21352
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UPDATE:car is now begining to frequently shut off while slowing down. Like when i get to a stop sign or a light. Starts up with no problems and hangs around the 500rpm range. shut off at least 6 times when i was on campus looking for parking because of all the stop signs haven't had time to check timing because of school and working full time as before any input is welcomed please
Most times is the a dirty IACV or a faulty one. Try cleaning it first and the throttle body.

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Anyone know what the deal is on Enkei RPF1's in White? I know I see people with them. Are they just custom?
Most likely custom as I only seen them in silver and SBC (Super Black Chrome)

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I've noticed some fluid seems to be seeping from my trans drain plug. Is there a recommended tape or sealer I should put on the drain plug?
Easiest fix is using plumber's tape aka teflon tape. You can also clean the drain plug with brake cleaner too because dirt will fill up the threads.
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Old 09-14-2017, 06:57 PM   #21353
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Anyone know what the deal is on Enkei RPF1's in White? I know I see people with them. Are they just custom?
https://www.vividracing.com/blog/ann...x-sti-fitment/

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Old 09-14-2017, 07:13 PM   #21354
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DOT 5 can't be mixed. DOT 5.1 however can be. There's DOT 3, 4, 5, & 5.1. 5 is the odd man out that can't be mixed since it's silicon based.
Gotcha. Didn't know there was 5 and 5.1

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I've noticed some fluid seems to be seeping from my trans drain plug. Is there a recommended tape or sealer I should put on the drain plug?
I always used Permatex Thread Sealant on my trans and diff fill and drain plugs. Ensures no leaks and doesn't "cement" the plug in place. I see that Loctite has a similar product too.

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Old 09-15-2017, 12:36 PM   #21355
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Is the stock S13 shift knob threaded the same as any aftermarket? Will I be able to thread the stock knob onto the ISR short shifter?
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Old 09-15-2017, 01:07 PM   #21356
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Is the stock S13 shift knob threaded the same as any aftermarket? Will I be able to thread the stock knob onto the ISR short shifter?
Yes, any aftermarket s13 shifter has the same threads as the factory shifter.
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Old 09-18-2017, 08:02 PM   #21357
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whos got the hook up on new s14 e brake cables!!??
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Old Today, 02:58 PM   #21358
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I'm in the middle of my rhd conversion and somehow threw away my dash insulator pad. Checked with Nissan USA, Nissan Japan, Nissan UK and they all have confirmed this part is discontinued.

My question is, has anyone used dynamat, fat pad, or any other insulation that worked well to block out heat?

Mind you this is for the firewall.
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