Road Race setup/ Track pics

[slider2828]

Nice video.... Track has some super long straights.... love to breaking technique... slowly push on the pedal and smooth...love it... what video camera?

[WhiteGLX]

my braking in 2 places could be really improved. Camera in a small panasonic unit with PITA computer uploading procedures....

[slider2828]

Can't tell your breaking G's without an Accelerometer.... but I like it nice and smooth.... I wish we all had driftbox's I tell you that would be awesome....

[WhiteGLX]

WEEKEND UPDATE!!!!

Video of course is above, but here is the low down....

The new spring rates (10k/8k) were awesome, and when combined with my new Tanabe sway bar the car was very easy to control, and very predictable in the corners in terms of entry speed, counter steering and general stability.

The roll cage really stiffened up the chassis, which also helped with overall control. I do however need a steering bushing, for the steering column, mine is way too soft and worn out, so that will be next before any other events, and prolly that alone.

My brother was using my car all weekend and did a great job getting used to it and pushing it where necessary, and helped me find out where the car can go faster. Tho he did back it into a tire wall during his first session out in the rain....not cool, but we semi-fixed the damage and kept driving all weekend. He claims my lap times were around 2:19's, which is good, but i dont think we got any footage of it, and i also noted places on track in the v idea where i can hold alot more speed and correct some braking abnormalities.

[frankist]

what camera are you using if you dont mind me asking.

[slider2828]

What coils did you go with? Swift, HyperCoils? I am looking for a pair myself.... Might be ok with slicks 12/10's but definitely not street tires....

[WhiteGLX]

coils are 10k 7" buddyclub front / 8k 8" stance rear, the car is very predictable, the cage is aslo helping in the chassis control tho.

camera is a Panasonic digital camcorder, tiny with justa flip out screen and a 4G card.

[WhiteGLX]

UPDATE!!!!

picked up some scales bout a week ago, and finally got in my first attempt to balance my car.

Cross weights are 50/50, and F/R is 50/50.

L/R cannot be adjusted without adding ballast or reducing LH weight, so its going to be tough compensating for my heavy self, but 2 out of 3 aint bad.

Before me (cross weight percentage and total weight shown on RH side)


After me (cross weight percentage and total weight shown on RH side)

[slider2828]

Wholly geezus I want some!!!! How much you pick that up for? Geez!!!

[WhiteGLX]

i bought these scales off a guy who used to circle track race in the area, for cheap. A new set will cost you about $800, and it goes up with more features added.

[slider2828]

Damn that isn't bad at all. Hey I was wondering, I just got back from Laguna Seca and pegged the shit out of my car in 3rd and 4th. Awesome track car was always living between 5-7000... A helluva track.... rarely even see 2nd except in the last turn.... How do you deal with cooling cause I hit 92c for water temp and that is really high as the coolant system was over pressurizing cause some coolant was blowing through the overflow.

You ever see these conditions? A LOT of uphills at Laguna. So far Koyo Rad, Nismo TStat, Nismo Rad Cap, RX7 oil cooler, and new water pump and water wetter in teh system. Also have blitz full front mount and a version select bumper. Do I need a bigger opening in the front?

Let me know what you think?

[MandTPhotography]

WhiteGLX, I assume you've run the Patriot Course before.

I'm trying to wait on a Full Course trackday instead of the Patriot, but I'm curious as to how it compares.

[driftstyre]

Originally Posted by slider2828

Damn that isn't bad at all. Hey I was wondering, I just got back from Laguna Seca and pegged the shit out of my car in 3rd and 4th. Awesome track car was always living between 5-7000... A helluva track.... rarely even see 2nd except in the last turn.... How do you deal with cooling cause I hit 92c for water temp and that is really high as the coolant system was over pressurizing cause some coolant was blowing through the overflow.

You ever see these conditions? A LOT of uphills at Laguna. So far Koyo Rad, Nismo TStat, Nismo Rad Cap, RX7 oil cooler, and new water pump and water wetter in teh system. Also have blitz full front mount and a version select bumper. Do I need a bigger opening in the front?

Let me know what you think?

You shouldn't be pushing coolant at 92C/200F. Where is your temp sensor located? With a 1.3 bar cap it shouldn't push coolant until at least 100C+. Maybe a headgasket issue? You have all the right cooling parts so I'd be surprised if you were having genuine lack of cooling.

[slider2828]

Hmm... Yeah I was surprised too, because it happened on the last session, but all day was fine..... I have a kinked slightly kinked hose at the firewall for the heater core.... I think that might have been what backed it up so I am completely replacing it and getting rid of that kinked. Found out that it kinked more than 50% of that little pipe. Could that be the problem?

Engine was rebuilt with a Apex'i 1.1 Metal Head Gasket. Supposedly these are really good because of a fire ring err something like that. ARP headstuds, I think tq was 85 ft/lb on that....

But man driftstyre, your car is sick..... I know you relocated your massive radiator to the rear for updraft cooling from the bottom of the car, but if you still had the oil cooler, front mount and rad in the front, how would you set it up? I have roughly the same from aero bumper as you.

I was thinking, adding a splitter angling the intercooler 45* and leading edge on the bottom touching the splitter. Oil cooler on top at like a -25* all being 0* is the horizontal road. So everything coming together looking C shape with some overlap to increase breathing to the radiator.....

But I think I will fix the kink first.

O my water temp is from the factor sensor I assume.... its from my PowerFC ECU.

[WhiteGLX]

Originally Posted by slider2828

Damn that isn't bad at all. Hey I was wondering, I just got back from Laguna Seca and pegged the shit out of my car in 3rd and 4th. Awesome track car was always living between 5-7000... A helluva track.... rarely even see 2nd except in the last turn.... How do you deal with cooling cause I hit 92c for water temp and that is really high as the coolant system was over pressurizing cause some coolant was blowing through the overflow.

You ever see these conditions? A LOT of uphills at Laguna. So far Koyo Rad, Nismo TStat, Nismo Rad Cap, RX7 oil cooler, and new water pump and water wetter in teh system. Also have blitz full front mount and a version select bumper. Do I need a bigger opening in the front?

Let me know what you think?

Alot of racers see 200*F on a normal basis, this still isnt bad, just a little high. If you have a FMIC and not a large opening it will restrict some airflow to the radiator. I opened up the hole a good bit to use the whole intercooler and let more air through to the radiator. If your oil cooler is before the rad also then thats just more hot air trying to cool the already hot radiator.

what do you run for fans?

i use stock shroud and fan, never once have i overheated from a cooling issue, last year i over pressurized the cooling system which eventually was diagnosed as a blown headgasket. Since then no issues, just cool temps.

WhiteGLX, I assume you've run the Patriot Course before.

I'm trying to wait on a Full Course trackday instead of the Patriot, but I'm curious as to how it compares.

Full course is 3x as long, very high speeds, lots of grip, completely different from patriot course. I suggest signing up for either a full course event, or a VIR grand event with MDA (mazdadrivers.com), thats the full course and patriot combined for a 4.3 mile circuit, very fun.

[slider2828]

hmmm yeah this is the first time it has happened to me.... I also run stock fan with fan shroud.

Yes I run oil cooler in front of intercooler in front of radiator... better get some more opening then... AND a kinked heater core hose... Going to take car of this stuff.....

Hopefully not a blow HG....

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by slider2828

I was thinking, adding a splitter angling the intercooler 45* and leading edge on the bottom touching the splitter. Oil cooler on top at like a -25* all being 0* is the horizontal road. So everything coming together looking C shape with some overlap to increase breathing to the radiator.....

Sounds like a good plan, but what would really help is some ducting. Do what you're talking about, except leave the Oil cooler in front of the IC. Then use some ducting on top of the IC slanted down towards the bottom of the rad, but only about 10* (that's about the max angle to prevent flow separation) so as to minimize turbulence. Then put another plate at the top of your bumper opening to the top of the rad, again at about 10*. Then box the whole thing in (all the way down to the splitter) with two side plates. If the lower rad ducting blocks flow out of the intercooler from going anywhere, cut a small duct in your splitter at the very back of the ducting, allowing the air to escape under the car from the IC/oil cooler.

Here's my super-simple paint drawing of what I'm saying:



I would say vent your hood, but you're still using the stock shroud.

[slider2828]

Thanks for your input, but I am actually going to get a 25 row earls for teh passenger side vent opening and just get maximum intercooler and raditor flow....

Does it really help to have the opening above the IC and slant down towards the radiator? From my knowledge I know hightest pressure is the furthest point forward on the car and to slow the air down from a small to larger opening has very good effects... Am I on the right track?

In terms of the shround, when I have money for a CF hood, a whole at the top right infront of the valve cover would be perfect to evacuate hot air....

[PoorMans180SX]

Nice.

Yes it does help. If you didn't have that there, air would come over the top of the intercooler and circle around in the lower pressure zone behind the intercooler.

And you want the vent in the hood directly behind the radiator, as close to the front of the hood as possible, as that is the area of lowest pressure on your hood.

[WhiteGLX]

New alignment settings are:

Camber: -3.3* F / -2.2* R
Toe: 0 F/ 0 R
Caster: OEM spec (not adjustable)

Final balancing results came with F/R 50/50 split, and 50/50 split cross weights, i always need a passenger for 50/50 L/R, which is ok, not really possible to fix on an SR swapped car, too much LH weight.

Summit Point Main circuit this past weekend:

NASA MA, Instructor group was cruising, no one was slow....

My weekend went phenominal, not a problem in the world, car ran fantastic, still at only 11psi. The new alignment and corner balance settings really helped get the car moving in the corners. Very consistent 1:25-1:26's on fairly clean laps. Some room for improvement in T1-T2 combo, and more entry speed for T3 and T10, but i still even stepped it up in the corners, but a little more could be used to get more out of the car without adding power or aero.

After another 2 events or so ill be doing a wing and splitter, very necessary for more added grip in the higher speed corners. Alot of off track discussions with other instructors trying to find ways of getting more speed and time out of the lap s this time around, everyone wants to improve, its great.

My friend blew his K20 on track and he had to drive my car home an hour and a half while his car was on the trailer, he said is was super fun playing with all the turbo noise, but hot as hell from the exhaust being soooo close to the floor. Oh and no my car isnt legal, we put his integra tags on it, good times.

no photos yet, maybe some later this week, but i do have a fastest lap video from saturday, none from sundays festivities.

240sx on Summit Point Main on Vimeo

[slider2828]

What are your shifting points on your car? I was at Laguna Seca and when I shift at 7k or 7200 RPM from 3rd to 4th, there is a slight grind.... do you get that? Less grind when I shift at 6500RPM.... New Amsoil Fluid as well.....

LOL just noticed your gas light was flickering on and off too hahaha....

[WhiteGLX]

Originally Posted by slider2828

What are your shifting points on your car? I was at Laguna Seca and when I shift at 7k or 7200 RPM from 3rd to 4th, there is a slight grind.... do you get that? Less grind when I shift at 6500RPM.... New Amsoil Fluid as well.....

LOL just noticed your gas light was flickering on and off too hahaha....

i usually shift around 7200, i rely on the sound of the engine to shift on straits otherwise i shift depending on track location, not always an ideal shifting rpm but sometimes it helps gain speed with more car control than having a ton of power and torque in some corners. I usually shift fairly quick to make sure i get both hands back on the wheel, that way i have full control in the corners.

no grinding at all, yet. You may possibly have a transmission issue, or clutch isnt fully disengaging.

the light is my alternator light, it comes on usually after strong decel, i may have the warning voltage set too high so it comes on rather easily. I dont have a fuel light, The Stack unit gives warning for oil T, oil P, water T and VDC. A good reason i love teh stack so much . I am spoiled with it i know.

[kognition]

You have about another 400- 600 lbs to take out of that car depending on your skills.

[WhiteGLX]

Originally Posted by kognition

You have about another 400- 600 lbs to take out of that car depending on your skills.

oh i know i can get it lighter with some money.....FRP/carbon front panels, lexan windows, fully gut doors, light battery, remove heatercore and fan assembly, remove metal bumpers, im sure all that will surly add up to several hundred pounds.

however i do cold events, i need defrost, i keep the car outside so i need functioning windows, i spend all my money on track time so im not dropping loot on all lighter body panels, and lexan. Severe budgeting and concentration on track time keeps the car heavy, seat time is more fun then installing body panels and looking at a light weight race car.

[kognition]

I am sorry to hear this. I remember those days when i had all the stuff my car came with, 800lb's of useless metal. lol. Don't mind me.... i have turned to the dark side. I cut my roof off as if it were a corona bottle cap
And i will do the same to my next track car.

Originally Posted by WhiteGLX

oh i know i can get it lighter with some money.....FRP/carbon front panels, lexan windows, fully gut doors, light battery, remove heatercore and fan assembly, remove metal bumpers, im sure all that will surly add up to several hundred pounds.

however i do cold events, i need defrost, i keep the car outside so i need functioning windows, i spend all my money on track time so im not dropping loot on all lighter body panels, and lexan. Severe budgeting and concentration on track time keeps the car heavy, seat time is more fun then installing body panels and looking at a light weight race car.

[slider2828]

Do you rev match when upshifting or just regular clutch in gas off at the same time and shift? Lightened flywheel lightened shaft or anything?

-Ken

Originally Posted by WhiteGLX

oh i know i can get it lighter with some money.....FRP/carbon front panels, lexan windows, fully gut doors, light battery, remove heatercore and fan assembly, remove metal bumpers, im sure all that will surly add up to several hundred pounds.

however i do cold events, i need defrost, i keep the car outside so i need functioning windows, i spend all my money on track time so im not dropping loot on all lighter body panels, and lexan. Severe budgeting and concentration on track time keeps the car heavy, seat time is more fun then installing body panels and looking at a light weight race car.

[WhiteGLX]

Originally Posted by slider2828

Do you rev match when upshifting or just regular clutch in gas off at the same time and shift? Lightened flywheel lightened shaft or anything?

-Ken

i barley lift off the throttle when up-shifting, just clutch in and shift. I only rev match on serious decel areas where a down-shift through 2 gears is needed.


kognition - the dark is a good place to be, trust me i want the car lighter and more basic, but i have to keep it useable for events in all kind of weather since i do events up North in IL and down south in SC, i;l learn the ways of the race car someday, when i get my comp license most likely.

[kognition]

I hear ya. My car is just one big experiment really. I actually stopped thinking of it as a car, and instead... an aircraft without wings. Next thing you know, your pulling all kinds of useless metal out of the thing.

Originally Posted by WhiteGLX

i barley lift off the throttle when up-shifting, just clutch in and shift. I only rev match on serious decel areas where a down-shift through 2 gears is needed.


kognition - the dark is a good place to be, trust me i want the car lighter and more basic, but i have to keep it useable for events in all kind of weather since i do events up North in IL and down south in SC, i;l learn the ways of the race car someday, when i get my comp license most likely.

[WhiteGLX]

Originally Posted by kognition

I hear ya. My car is just one big experiment really. I actually stopped thinking of it as a car, and instead... an aircraft without wings. Next thing you know, your pulling all kinds of useless metal out of the thing.

funny you should say that....

these are some of the aircraft i work on every day....




my wiring represents the airplanes i work on, my lack of body mods and aero does not represent my occupation tho...

[WhiteGLX]

Just got back from IL. I was at the ITR Expo '09 at the lovely Autobahn Country Club south race track.

the track was fun, took about 3 sessions to really get some good laps down and then start to tweak specific corners for more speed. Slowly started picking up more and more speed in several corners when i severely flat spotted one of my already worn hoosiers. i mean through the corns down to the metal strands, it was nice. Luckily i come prepared with another set of wheel/tires and get the on the car and adjust the pressures accordingly. Go out for one hell of a session without the camera thinking i would put it in for my last session since that was with instructor/advanced combined and i would roll some serious honda's. Well i fried a front rotor because i went down to the rivets of my front RH pads, awesome right? days over, done for the event, only missed one session. Only 2 cars in my group i couldnt keep up with, a K20 powered CRX (245whp and 1800lbs wet), and a 350whp turbo RSX driven by some ex grand-am dusche. Was a great experience pushing the car harder and learning a new track while still trying to go fast.

wish i had gotten some video, would have been absolutely nasty to watch.

started getting my front wheel wobble back. I thin its time to change to non OEM front tension arms, make a fake power brace for the tension arm brackets. and buy the AL steering rack bushings. All that should fix the problem, and if not then i have some serious shit going on.