Mannykiller's Fd Street/Drift build

[drscooper]

very nice man! sounds great!

[Mannykiller]

Yea I'm not gonna lie.... when I turned the key off It was 10pm...and I live in a really quiet neighborhood. I had the garage open and ran out to the driveway..jumped in the air and punch kicked...all the while yelling "YES!" haha

[turbo2nr]

BRAP BRAP BRAP gotta love it, congrats man starting itfor the first time after a sh*it ton of mods is a awesome feeling!

[spooled240]

Nice! Should be driveable soon?

[Mannykiller]

^ well I think I have to replace my clutch master...it's just not bleeding and i've already replaced the slave. After that... need to adjust my coilover ride height...because it's a little too low in the front for comfort with the giant side walls i have on there. I love low cars..but the lowest part of my car is the coolant fitting...so until I can have it relocated higher...i'm going to run it a bit higher. And my alignment is totally JACKED haha. I'm going to take it to get done. But I really want to try and pull off 0 camber in the rear... front will be a different story but I really dont like the feel of mega -.

Going to try and fix my oem oil pressure gauge as it's not getting a signal, and wire up my dual EGT displays. The sensors are already installed etc..just need power for the digi displays. I think my brakes may need to be bled a bitmore as well. Other than that.. She's ready to drive =-) Once I get 500 miles on the motor i'll be able to get a professional tune. LSD needs to be broken in correctly as well. Maybe I did too much at once..hah. My motor builder says the motor is ready to race the next day and I dont really need to break it in..and it's race clearanced, but i'd just feel better knowing it ran nicely for 500 miles before I rape it. After 500 miles.. Diff fluid change and second oil change and were ready to go. Today I'm going to let it idle for as long as possible to make sure my fans are working and to put some heat into things.

[Mannykiller]

Update:

Been busy working out little bugs.
Had a little leak and wasn't happy with my drain install...so I pulled the drain flange off and modified it so the nut would fully tighten on the stud...and it would also give me room to get a socket on there.


finished....Now I was able to get the drain on/off and tighten it easily.

Injector test shot =-)

calibrated my Innovate MTX-L and wired it to switched 12V/ground

And finally got around to wiring in the Parts Shop Max Dual EGT Digital Gauge displays...they're rad. Still need to Calibrate them though.

and I may get crap for this but got these in...they're ebay..cheap.. and so awesome haha

[cbcm2435]

just paint them red and no one will say anything

[Mannykiller]

yea right... I like the neo =-)

[IIIXziuR]

Haha pretty cool tow hooks.

[di-devol]

Originally Posted by Mannykiller

yea right... I like the neo =-)

Who cares what they look like? Hope you don't need to use them.

[Mannykiller]

i'm already thinking i'm going to have to re-do my coolant inlet locatio on the radiator. It's the second lowest part of the underbody of the car...definitely don't want something to catch that...

[mkpoto]

great build, got sucked into this thread (for over an hour) haha

[Mannykiller]

^hey thanks man!! glad you were entertained!! haha

Small Update:

Fixed my radiator fans. Seems as if....AGAIN the previous owner had it jerry rigged. I actually had to go back through my old front harness and look at the relays to figure that out. Replaced the missing relays (2 of them) and set up the duty on the Adaptronic so that they'll come on when things start getting a little on the warm side. Also, If this doesn't control the temps i'm going to purchase 2 Higher CFM fans and make an alum Shroud for them. As of right now the motor stays cool for 4-5 min while idleing but when it starts to surge up to 2K on and off temps slowly climb and I ended up having to turn the car off to let things cool off. But that was before I got the fans working at all. Should be good to go now.

I did get it to idle much much better, and at a lower RPM I'm currently @ 1150rpm and slowly working on lowering it. But it is a little tricky because:
1) I'm new to mesing with fuel tables and tuning, and I feel like everything I do is going to blow up the whole car haha
2) I've been making adjustments in increments of 5 on the tunning table to be more precise.. is this dumb?
3) I don't have an Idle Control Valve because I have an aftermarket UIM (Virtual Works UIM)

So i'll work on it a little more today and see where I can get it.

And Finally....i've been doing research on Tuners in the area and after talking with him. I'll be taking my car to Abel Ibarra in about 2-3 weeks time. We talked for about 45 min on the phone about what I want from the tune and whats possible/not possible/set up/parts etc... and I was really impressed with him. Seems like a good guy and has irreplaceable experience in tuning. He just started up his 20B turbo track car this past week. He also Ordered an Adaptronic for his brothers fd and promised he'd be as familiar with it as any other ECU he's worked with in the past. I'm pretty confident my tune is in good hands. More updates soon! Stay tuned guys!!


P.S. NEED ASAP: LOW mileage Good Condition Clutch Master Cylinder. Or should I just get the 75 dollar lifetime warranty one from Autozone?

[Mannykiller]

Little walkaround video after I got the idle tuned in a little bit
Walkaroundamplightrev_zps94176401.mp4 Video by mannykiller | Photobucket
Powered by Max Dual EGT sensors and Digital Readouts
PBMDualEGTsWorking_zps68c1bcd0.mp4 Video by mannykiller | Photobucket

Still need a new clutch master cylinder, probly a new brake master as well. Going to pull it apart tonight and check them out.

[di-devol]

Neighbors must love you! Mine don't like me either.

[bc.]

Originally Posted by Mannykiller

Little walkaround video after I got the idle tuned in a little bit
Walkaroundamplightrev_zps94176401.mp4 Video by mannykiller | Photobucket
Powered by Max Dual EGT sensors and Digital Readouts
PBMDualEGTsWorking_zps68c1bcd0.mp4 Video by mannykiller | Photobucket

Still need a new clutch master cylinder, probly a new brake master as well. Going to pull it apart tonight and check them out.

Did you calibrate the EGT sensors?

[YOSHIKOUKI]

dope build man wat high school did u go to i went to Palmdale high class of 02

[Mannykiller]

Originally Posted by bc.

Did you calibrate the EGT sensors?

Not in this shot...but Since then Yes I have. The 30 degree one was way off... The 20 degree one was of a couple degrees from Ambient. I think I had both of them set to 21 degrees. Now they're dead even. Champ!

Originally Posted by YOSHIKOUKI

dope build man wat high school did u go to i went to Palmdale high class of 02

Nice! I graduated from Quaratz Hill in 03!

[IIIXziuR]

Awesome, man! Excitement.

[Mannykiller]

Update:

Well After many many failed attempts at Bleeding my clutch and brake system... I finally bit the bullet this morning and ordered 4x Speed Bleeders, and 1 Speed bleeder for the Clutch Slave. I think I pretty much Mico-bubbled my entire system earlier on when I was bleeding the system incorrectly, and now I'm left cleaning up the mess. Anyways... They'll be here in a couple days.

In other news...I got the car to idle around 850rpm and even got it to hold steady at 750 messing with the adaptronic fuel table, but 750 although steady..was just a little bit lumpy for my likeing. The best investement ever was the Lisle Funnel. My cooling system is ROCK steady, and I'm thinking I'm going to be just fine with my I/C core converted Radiator and the 2x Mishimoto slim fans. I'm still going to purchase some Higher CFM fans just for my own piece of mind but I'm not entirely sure they'll even be necessary. Yesterday in the 88 degree desert heat my car idle'd for 35 min and did not get any higher than 81 Degrees Celsius. Thats exactly what I was hoping for.. Rev'd to 2k for 3 min to get the temp up and it rose to 85...Fans kicked on and held at 85 C @ 2k RPM for 2 MIN and raised to 86. I'd really like the temp to drop, but I guess I can't expect that with just the fans, no ducting and the water pump only turning at 2k rpm. We'll see what happens once I get some Load on the system. Still need to hook up my Oil cooler fans though as well. Was thinking of putting them on the same switch as my radiator fans so they'd come on at the same time. What do you guys think?

Also Made a temp template gauge plate for my DIN pockets for the battery on/off switch, And Dual EGT Digital displays. I like it...but still need to cut a hole for the Innovate Mtx-l wideband gauge.
heres a pic..cardboard....may just keep it like this forever ;-)

night view.. havn't hooked up the dimmer wire yet...but it ties into the dimmer switch so you can adjust the brightness to your likeing
Also fixed my Turn signals because the whole unit snapped when I was putting the dash in. Stupid and expensive mistake. But Got a nice low mileage one and installed it. Thanks dan!
Old Busted one

Nice low mileage unit

Installed

Finished


Also I know I post a lot of pictures of the bay...but I just love it. This is what I've built over the past 2 years...and it is now 100% complete as an engine bay...aside from I/C & Radiator Ducting.
Top View

Front View


Also, I had to re-make the water feed line to the turbo because I was tightening it and actually Cracked the flare right off the tube. I used a -6 90 degree black push-lock fitting to replace it. I think it suits the build a little better and is more durable. Could've used stainess tube instead..but I wanted alum because it was easier to work with and has better cooling characteristics. The push loc line is a great compromise though and i'll just cover it with some DEI.

Raised my suspension a half inch in the front because the car was literally SLAMMED. I can't believe how low I can go on these coilovers.. I'd probly be able to put the car on the ground if I wanted to. There is so much room for adjusment. looking forward to getting everything dialed in to see if my 8/10k swift springs are too soft. We'll see soon enough. Although they've been re-nammed and re-configured I"m pretty happy with the build quality/adjustment of the Stance XR coilovers thus far.

There's still a lot to do before I can hit the dyno. But most importantly I need to get:

1. Brakes/Clutch Bled
2. Oil pressure gauge working
3. Carbonetic 2 way Metal LSD unit Broken in/fluid change
4. 4" exhaust completed

More updates to come!!

[Mannykiller]

not much of an update...

But yesterday I couldn't find any universal fan mount kits anywhere...go figure?! So I was unable to mount the fans to my oil coolers. I am confident that my car is almost 100% leak free. EXCEPT i have 2 small leaks. The first one is one of the bolts that holds the Exhaust side of the turbo to the center chra...I saw a little bit of smoke coming from that area and noticed that smoke is coming out of a tiny pin head sized area between the bolt and threads.. Sucks because I can't get get a normal wrench in there. I'll need a thin head wrench... so I may look for one today. The second leak is coming from my Oil feed from the front Iron. It seems to be coming out of the AN Flare area...not a hard fix..just need to get to it. It is however coming out very very slowly... either way I hate leaks so i'll be fixing both of them soon enough. NEXT is to check for boost leaks.

I dont have a smoke machine...nor do I want to bother with a DIY one

But has anyone used the Carb Cleaner method to check for boost leaks?
Or the Baby Powder method?
Any cheap suggestions?

Also, I FINALLY was able to trace down the Oil Pressure Sender Wire!! so now I have a visual on my Oil pressure! Man the previous owner really did a number on this Charge harness. Might just be easier to find a nice used one that hasn't been un-cut. The wire was again...tucked away, wrapped up in the loom. Had to cut about 6 inches up from the Starter to find it... What a joke. Anyways....glad i'm able to fix all these little quirks, that way when I get to the dyno...we won't have to mess around with the set up...we can simply tune.

[Mannykiller]

Small Update:

Yesterday my clutch slave speed bleeder came in. All I can say is you've got to be kidding me...and I can't believe how much time I WASTED trying to bleed the clutch without one of these. This isn't a "maybe I should do this" modification. It's an absolute must. I installed it and 5 min later I had a nice stiff, bubble free clutch throw. It was ridiculously easy. All i need to do now is adjust the piston to get the engagement point exactly where I want it. I'll do that when I get home today.

I also had a small leak on my turbo drain again. I guess the gasket was a little tight around the bolt so I "THOUGHT" it was tightened all the way..but it wasn't...so it leaked a tad on my nice gold subframe haha.

Was able to take her out for her Maiden voyage around the block to break in the diff.
Directions state: 25 min of figure eights or approximately 187 miles of street driving to break the diff in. Then your supposed to change the diff fluid. THis is for the Carbonetic Metal 2-way LSD unit. NOT the Carbon unit. It clunks a bit but I've been in much worse, and afterall I knew it would haha. Good news was nothing fell off the car when I was driving. Never went over 20 MPH because it's a rough base tune but I just wanted to make sure everything was fit and get some figure eights in. I did about 20 8's before the neighbors came out wondering why a top fuel sounding rice burner was doing circles in the intersection of my block haha.

It's sooo loud guys... I'm gonna need to wrap the exhaust and put some sort of muffler as a mid pipe or something because this is just....soo loud.

Coolant temps never went above 84 degrees Celsius and it was 85 degrees out. Set the fans to 86 just because. Never came on.. I'm happy right now because my Intercooler core converted into a radiator is working at normal low speed driving. Real test comes on the dyno..but that'll come in a couple weeks.

Fixed the oil drain last night, took it off, cleaned it, put a tiny bit of super copper around the edges for good measure and on it went again.

More figure eights today, I might even try to drive to the gas station around the corner because my fuel level sensor isn't working and I know I'm getting low.

More updates soon!

[di-devol]

Originally Posted by Mannykiller

It's sooo loud guys... I'm gonna need to wrap the exhaust and put some sort of muffler as a mid pipe or something because this is just....soo loud.

No.


That is all.

[bc.]

Originally Posted by di-devol

No.


That is all.

At least get a video before you do it.

[Mannykiller]

Even though my fuel level sensor isn't working yet....I knew I was getting a little low on fuel. So I started her up and drove to the gas station about 3/4 of a mile away. I stalled once. And it was a bit Hairy because All I had was my hand brake since my speed bleeders havn't come in for all 4 corners yet. But It was nice to get on the road and actually feel the car ya know? I need to adjust my coilovers and had them at all the way stiff to start with. Also all 4 corners needed to be adjustes as far as coilover ride height. Front's ranged from 24.25" (drivers side) to 24.83" (Pasenger side). The rear was 25 inches even on the pasenger side and 25.25 inches on the drivers side. I'll most likely go 24.25 in the fronts and 24.50" in the rear but I want to wait till I get my new tires to set the ride height. The rear tires are 265/35's but i'll be running 245 or 255/40's in the rear. We'll see. Anyways here's a clip of my maiden street voyage!

Suicidegasstationrun_zpseb250296.mp4 Video by mannykiller | Photobucket

After I got back from the gas station I was afraid coolant temps were going to be higher....but it was about 78 degrees yesterday when I went. Coolant temps never got over 83...and cruising at 45mph they were even cooler @ 81 Celsius. I know people say thats too cold but you know what. When the summer heat hits 118 F like it did last year... I'll be happy. I'd much rather have temps a bit colder than running hot. Maybe I could even experiment with different weight oils. Right now i'm using 5W30. Anyways.. My oil drain leak is fixed. but my heater core drivers side coolant line is leaking. I used a worm clamp on it and I think it's just too tight. I'll fix that as soon as possible.

Havn't had time to hook up the AEM boost control Solenoid yet and don't really need it yet.
Only need to do about 10 more min of figure 8's before the Carbonetic 2-way diff is broken in but I may do a few more just for kicks. It's noticeably quieter than when I first started doing the 8's with it. It clunked LOUD when I first started. Now it's much quieter. Feels great though. After it's done being broken in I'll change the diff fluid and be done with it for the time being.

Orderd a pack of 8 Little 16 oz plastic squeeze bottles with caps so I can keep Pre-mix with me. Also finally ordered my Triumph Fast Acting AIT sensor because the OEM unit is soo damn slow it's literally pointless. 43 bucks shipped online from some cycle shop. Clutch feels good..Nice tight and not overly stiff. Engagement window feels like it's about an inch in length. I may end up extending my Piston because I don't like pushing all the way in for the clutch. I would much rather push in a couple inches and then have it start to release/engage.

Thats about it as far as updates go. After this stuff is finished the car should be dyno ready and abel ibarra can do his thing. Looking forward to it!

More updates soon!

[DialedLife]

Wow this is such an incredible car. I've never seen such amazing work. Makes me want an rx7. Keep it up man !

[Mannykiller]

^hey thanks man, I've seen some pretty Sick builds.. I'm just doing the best I can out of my garage. I feel like I could do a little better with a shop of my own. But That may be when I get my own place and i'm able to get some of my own machines/welders etc

Small Update:

Well I wasn't able to get much done on the car this past weekend as i've been working since fri...and I won't be off till Wed. But on saturday morning I had an hour free...so I went out and finished breaking the diff in. After that I figure'd I'd go ahead and go around the block just for a nice cruise. Well Temps stayed cool enough.....but then all the sudden halfway around the block temps started creeping up towards 91C etc... Then 99..and when It got to 108C I was at my driveway.. Pulled up and into the garage and shut it off. Cooled off reasonably quick but water was boilover over and I lost a little bit because I don't have an overflow cap on the tank.
This worries me because it hasn't gotten hot before. And 108 isn't damaging hot but why did this happen is my major question. THe fans came on...and I didn't go over 3K RPM and no faster than 40MPH. Running straight distilled water and water wetter.
The only thing I can think of was that my Radiator hose was kinked a little bit. And I guess that is enough to overheat the system.. but I'm not sure if I even want to deal with the problem. I feel like at this point I don't want to do R & D. I want to drive the car. I have no interest in seeing if I can make something work and so if fixing the kink in the radiator hose doesn't fix the problem... Im going to pull the whole thing out and put in a Mishimoto Universal Race dual pass with -16 fittings and dual high flow fans with the alum Shroud.

I really need to get everything in the motor in tip top shape. Everything is ok, but I don't want to "think" my cooling system will be able to handle demanding conditions. I want to "know." I want to know that my coolant system is strong enough to handle track duty, high load conditions.

So it may just be the kinked radiator hose from Thermostat housing to upper radiator inlet. So i'll fix it and see how it goes. What warrants this? well the fact that temps havn't gotten hot before this. I've let the car idle long enough without temps rising. I also had driven to the gas station and done figure 8's afterwards without any heat problems as well... So the kinked radiator hose is the only culprit. If un-kinking the hose doesn't fix the problem I'll most likely blame the radiator. Someone had mentioned the system may have a harder time controlling "runaway" coolant temps... SO if this is one of those instances.. then It's not for me. My goal is to be out there doing an extra lap while everyone else is pulling off the track to cool down. I don't want to be the first guy off the track.

Also, since i'm slightly aggitated with the cooling problem... I was installing my Russel Brand speed bleeders and the drivers side rear fitting Snapped off INSIDE the brake caliper. Perfect huh? hahaha. I seriously got pissed... then laughed..Tightned my Manual Brake Bias to eliminate any pressure to the rear...dropped my tools and went inside. I'm pretty accepting of user error..but this time was BS. All of the other fittings were able to be tightened just like the non-ez (speedbleeders) bleeders. This one HAD to be defective. I even looked at the threads and it still had a good 1/4 of the length more to go before it should have been tight/sealed. Now I have to contact them and try to get a new one.

[PrimeDirective]

Hey man you've done an awesome job and even more impressive doing it all in your garage!

About your over heating event I would fix the kink and see how it goes from there, take it one step at a time and save your self the stress and money from buying parts you don't need. I could totally imagine a kink in a radiator line to cause temps to reach that high.

[go7roo7]

Im curious as to what exactly did you do to the 3m cabon overlay? did you just apply it or sand it and make it matte? ( seems matte to me 2nd pic)

[Mannykiller]

Yea i'll see how it goes after the kink is fixed..

the 3m carbon overlay comes in 2 finishes. Matte and gloss. The one I have is Matte....looks much nicer than the Gloss. THe gloss looks cheap IMO