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03-19-2013, 11:29 AM | #211 |
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^^Hey! thanks man! i'm trying to get this thing going!
Small Update: Worked on bleeding the clutch some more... and I don't know how long it takes but it's taking forever. I found a leak a few nights ago in one of the braided lines that goes to the master cylinder, and after that I kinda took a break from it. Well I started again and there are no leaks..but the Clutch pedal isn't getting stiff. It seems as if there is endless amounts of bubbles. Is this the correct way to bleed? I don't know.. but this is what I've been doing: Pump Clutch 5-8 times and hold to floor Crack Bleed Screw open ( bubbles always flow out) Tighten Bleed screw Release Clutch pedal AND repeat. So is air getting into the system somewhere? But the pedal still won't get hard and it won't even get stiff enough to propel itself back off the floor after a bleed rotation. Any help would be appreciated. So I made a nice new Bleed bottle out of an old hand soap bottle, it's a lot thicker than the plastic bottle and much more clear. After spending about an hour working on the clutch bleed... I gave up and started working on the Fuel Pump wiring: Got these little rocker switches as well...(using "Theories"re-wire) Thanks tom I suck at wiring.. but heres how I doubled the rocker ground wire/relay to the frame then I got out my soldering Iron and laid down some wannabe beads haha put some shrink wrap on it and called it done. shrink wrap over terminal Hoping to finish it all off today. THe pics I posted are a little dis-organized..but I'll get some better ones today when I finish it off. After the fuel pumps are wired up I should be able to actually turn the key in the ignition and I'm totally expacting..... |
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03-20-2013, 09:07 AM | #212 |
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Thanks for the info on the clutch...but after really just stopping and thinking about it. I'mgoing to pull the slave cylinder off and inspect it. I think it's bad.... because after bleeding it for this long it should at least re-coil on it's own. I have a spare I'm going to open up and inspect as well... and see if theres a difference in o-rings then if need be just order a rebuild kit.
Other updates..Not a ton of stuff but wiring the fuel pumps up was definitely a huge move and a time consuming one as well Got the grounds all figured out, power to pumps, Relay/rocker switch and Battery terminals as well. Just need to run 12V to the rocker switches now. But here is an incomplete Pic of the relay harness's incomplete Grounds for relay/rocker switch & i'll most likely use the same location or one close to it for the pumps as well. You know what I'm getting damn good at soldering as well =-) I almost burnt myself because I realized I was actually enjoying myself...WHILE Wiring!! not a pic of the bare solder but the power wire from Battery to Relay. More Updates soon!!! |
03-21-2013, 09:10 AM | #213 |
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Big Update:
Yesterday was awesome because I spent about 8 hours straight working on the car. I started off where I left off.... Wiring. Ran 2x 12V wires up to the steering column ignition harness. Finished the power wires to the battery with 30AMP fuses, Got my Rocker switches all taken care of, and all my grounds in order as well. Battery Terminal eyelits straight to relays came out nice Coming together I noticed that using zip ties really really helps with orgnizing and making things look better ...I also needed somewhere to mount my rocker switches. The previous owner used this horrible piece of wannabe carbon fiber scrap metal with a sticker overlay for the din pocket. he cut a hole and put the boost guage in there.. it not only looked horrible but it also wouldn't stay in place. I don't kjnow why i've kept it around because I always thought to myself "...man that thing is useless ..why don't I just trash it." Well I finally found a use for it haha. I drilled 2 holes in it and figured it'll work for now to mount my rocker switches. So here it is in all it's glory... This took me a total of about 6 hours all together. Not proud of that..but at least I know that if I need to do it again I could do it in 2 haha. With cover on all finished up Finally I was time to work on the coil mounting bracket I had started. Bj made me a quick little bracket out of some scrap alum. I simply drilled 2 holes.. found 2 bolts... used 2 Fuel Rail risers I had laying around as spacers.. tightened them up..and mounted them on the drivers side frame. The plugs are all plugged in here and nothing has pressure on it. It really came together nicely because I thought the plugs weren't going to fit. Also I was worried about the hood not closing all the way or the plugs hitting the hood. But I measured and the hood will lay an inch and a quarter higher than the frame rail. The coils lay almost exactly an inch and an 8th. So i'm pretty sure they won't hit. But i'll have to make sure when i get the hood back on. Also used some scotch brite to give the aluminum a brushed look, and used a couple washers in between the frame and bracket on the closest mounting point to the strut because there is a slight indent on the frame which would make the bracket sit uneven or funny looking without. Still need to figure out neat wire routing but you get the idea and I'm happy with it. So after that I pulled out a spare Slave cylinder I had laying around, opened it up and cleaned it out really well because I thought my slave might be the reason my clutch wouldn't hold pressure. When I opened it up...it had a little bit of flaking on the inside closest to the bleed valve. Does anyone have any experience with these? I'm not sure if it is ok to use with that flaking..but then again I don't think the piston even gets to that point. I was going to replace mine with this one but when I pulled the line off with the slave attatched....I pushed on the piston and a bunch of bubbles shot out the master cylinder..maybe it needed to be sort of bench bled? it recoiled from the little pressure that is in there so I figured i'd bleed it today and if it didn't hold then move to the master cylinder as that may just be my luck. Good thing I have a nice low mileage spare laying around. More updates Soon!!! stay tuned!! |
03-22-2013, 10:50 AM | #216 |
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Small update:
Well I totally forgot to fully tighten the clutch pedal assembly so now it recoils..but it still doesn't feel as good as it should. I want the throw to be mid push ya know? Not all the way to the floor. Also, forgot to have a Coolant overflow bung welded to my filler. So I used a brass fitting instead. Drilled and tapped it, sealed it with High temp honda-bond just in case..and whaalahh drill and tap brass fitting installed also I put the tape there so metal shavings wouldn't get into the motors cooling system And finished......anyone have a oem over flow cap resevoir cap and dip stick for sale? I accidently sold mine thinking I had 2 or 3!!! Also, here is a good Guide if anyone wants to copy the fuel pump re-wire. I used Tom's page as a guide...and specifically this picture. I took the time to make a little visual guide using his pic for anyone who is directions illiterate and more of a visual person (like me). And I realized that there was no reason Why I shouldn't put my bumper, hood and drivers side fender on since all that is left to re-wire the front body harness is just routing and secureing. So I wanted to just go to sleep because I was tired last night..but I always seem to say..just one more thing haha. Anyways she's almost ready to fire guys! More updates soon!! going to purchase a battery today, and some coolant and if everything works out I should be able to put some petrol in and crank her over =-) |
03-24-2013, 10:35 AM | #218 |
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This is seriously one of the only threads I enjoy reading and check in on . The progression and quality of work is awesome. So many props on doing all this your self. Can't wait to see it done and tearing up the track.
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03-27-2013, 12:30 PM | #220 |
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Update:
Will update with pics later....but Figured out the problem with the main fuse box. Spent last night doing the following: - Re-routing the power cable from the Battery to the Main fuse box - Trimming the box inself to accept my GIANT power cable wire - Had to source another 12V because I had the fuel pumps wired to a constant 12V so the fuel pump switches would turn on whether or not the key was turned. This took a while to locate under the EGI fuse box but I took a picture and i'll add it here for future reference. Only thing is I had to cut my wires and extend them another 4 feet...which I'm hoping won't lower my aperage to each pump. I'll have to check soon. But now the fuel pumps are able to be switched on ONLY when the key is turned. - Routed the wiring nice and safe next to the frame rail..and no way close to any moving parts etc.. But I still need to go get some nice wire shield just for a extra piece of mind. The 12V switched source I used is right under the Green Relay in the EGI fuse box I'll post a picture later on today. - Fuel system had 1 small leak due to me not tightening down my fuel rail bolts all the way. Cleaned up the leaked fuel, tightened down the bolt....turned the fuel pumps on again and whaalah....No leaks!! Set the Fuel Pressure to 60 and let it run for abou 4 min straight. Not sure if that is ok..but Just wanted to make sure there wasn't any little drips or slight leaks anywhere in the system. Luckily there were none =-) My sweet ass Aeromotive fuel filter with shut off valve came in pretty handy. Glad I have it but i'd never spend what I spent on it again hah! Then I went to prime the motor to get oil pressure up and got nothing. Called it a night as it was 2:30 AM and I had to get up at 5:45 for work but I did do some searching on here and found out the most likely culprit. Which as some of you guys know is the Starter Cut relay. Located on the drivers side kick panel closest to the fuse box. Blue connector...and I think the only one over there on that side. I'm going to make a jumper wire for it so it bypasses it. That way I won't even need to push the clutch in to start the car. <<<and no that doesn't bother me, and no I'm not worried about accidently starting the car with the car in gear. So Thats where i'm going to start today...sadly my "today" will start at around 9pm tonight as I have to head to work after work haha. Don't think i'll be able to actually start the car at that time even if I'm ready to because my neighborhood is OOOOBER quiet... really don't want to upset my neighbors since i've been lucky enough to have really nice ones both sides and front/back. Lastly, anyone who is hesitant to go with the ADAPTRONIC ECU shouldn't be...this thing is super simple and easy to use. So glad I deleted my external Boost controller, external Map Sensor, datalogit etc. Don't need any of it!! _ After that turned on my Fuel pumps to prime the system..which is actually the wrong stp because I should've cranked the motor before for about 2-4 min just to get it all lubed up with oil before first start. But I wanted to make sure there were no leaks in my fuel system. |
03-28-2013, 09:12 AM | #221 |
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Some update pics:
Main Fuse box Slight modification to fit my oober large power wire, just used a dremel to grind away some of the plastic so the power wire would fit flush. End result And I drilled a hole in this plug and used it to route the power wire into the cabin of the car And Lastly......grounded the motor to frame. Used the threaded hole on the rear IRON that I was used for the OEM coil Mount bracket. Correct me if i'm wrong. And a parting shot for the day. WHile I was double checking things I figured i'd check my starter. And sure enough...it wasn't getting power... I'm pretty sure it is the Starter cut relay.. but I wasted 3 hours looking for it. Turns out There is a white plug that actually has the same pin out...fits in the same place..and is long enough to not look out of place while in stalled. I accidently hooked this up to the relay, and had the relay plug plugged into the drivers side footwell fuse box. I finally realized this and thats where I left off for the night. Today i'll use some wire to make a little Jumper to bypass the relay so the car can be turned over. Hopefully I can make some more progress towards that today. More updates soon! |
04-02-2013, 12:11 PM | #226 |
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Update:
Well fixed all my starter BS wiring. Seems like the Previous owner did some weird ass shit with it. I seriously have no idea how the car was set up the way he had it. But it explains why the car wouldn't turn off half the time. Anyways.. i'm going to wire up a nice push start button because i'm not getting any trigger signal to the starter. But i'll have to do that when I have some time.....which I don't have much of as of late. My next day off is thursday and it'll be packed with a bunch of "1st of the month" errands. Good news is I have all next week off starting monday from my second job. So i'll take advantage of that. I jumped the starter though just to see if the car would fire up. So I cranked it over for a min here and there to build oil pressure without the EGI relay or fuel fuse in and then installed them. Turned the key.....fuel pumps on and the jumped the starter. I heard the loudest Metal on metal noise ever and i'm positive the motor is toast. It came to a crunching siezed stop and I don't even know how it's possible..but there was a metal shard sticking out of the actual rotor housing... Safe to say I'll be taking a break from the build and really re-thinking finishing the car. bs man.....spent so much money on the engine internals and build to do it all the right way and the metal shard stiicking out is a bolt. I must've dropped one in there somehow when I had the UIM off. I just don't know where it came from. |
04-02-2013, 12:37 PM | #228 |
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SIKE!!!!!!
April FOOLS!!! haha THe motor is fine....cranks and has great compression for not running =-) Only problem is it's not getting fuel. I need to ground out my plugs to see if they're even firing. Pulled them and cranked it to make sure it wasn't flooded...which is fairly easy to do with a rotary. Cranked it over and there was no fuel at all....nothing on the plugs either. Not even a hint of fuel smell in the air. So trouble shooting starts next week when I have time. I work two jobs all day everyday till monday starting today. Sucks...but I'll have some cash for my PBM angle kit and cage soon! |
04-02-2013, 12:39 PM | #229 | |
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Glad to hear though LOL. |
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04-02-2013, 02:58 PM | #234 |
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04-04-2013, 09:22 AM | #235 |
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haha... I know!!! I havn't driven in 2 YEARS! I feel like it'll be the best running motor.. and I'll have like 15 degrees of posi camber on my right front... 10 neg on my passenger side, and my suspension/alignment/Brake bias will be absolutely JACKED out there. They're going to have to clear the coarse everytime I start the car....and the only chase car i'll have will be a pickup truck picking up parts I forgot to secure hahaha
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04-09-2013, 12:03 PM | #236 |
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Alrighty! so I spent the last few days trouble shooting electrical gremlins.. Damn starter wasn't getting a signal..but had power. Previously the car had to have been wire hacked or something because it was a bloody mess. After I had all but given up.....put in a 4 hour session I took a razor to the wiring loom. Found 2 wires that weren't connected to anything.. Looked through the FSM and Bingo. crimped them to connectors and whaalahhh I was now able to start the car by turning the key. THen I had to find out why I had nopower to my injectors. Turns out that one of the ecu connectors was stuck up by the hole in the firewall/dash area and the male end was behind the ecu. Effing idiot man...I swear. I connected them and hit the injecter test button on my ECU... all 4 I.D. injectors clicked and I got a nice 12V waveform across the board. Buttoned up some loose wires and here it is. First Start Video =-)
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04-09-2013, 12:09 PM | #238 | |
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04-09-2013, 12:11 PM | #239 |
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Forgot to back the fuel pressure back down to 43.5 PSI from 60. So i'm going to do that when I get home from work today. Also...the turbo was spitting oil EVERYWHERE... I can't remember if I had installed a restricter or not though..I wanna say the turbo feed -6an fitting had a built in one...but I can't rememer. Either way I ordered an extra one from ATP this morning. .035 for the GTX3582R. Hopefully there isn't one installed and I can simply twist a new one in..if not... I'll have to figure what is going on.
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