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Old 03-11-2017, 12:18 PM   #20821
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Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

My car won't start unless I have my foot pressed down on the gas and it won't run unless I keep feathering the throttle and when it does run it's rough as shit then dies in a few seconds. Changed plugs, checked grounds and vacuum lines.

Ran perfectly fine 6 months ago before it sat.

Is my fuel pump bad? When I prime it it only gets 32psi. Isn't it suppose to be a lot higher with the RB20DET. I have a tomei fpr


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Old 03-11-2017, 03:07 PM   #20822
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Greddy FMIC for SR20... Did Greddy ever manufacture the kit/cold pipe section with a flange for the HKS bov?



Pretty sure that is not factory done & the previous owner had a flange custom welded onto the pipe?
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Old 03-11-2017, 11:56 PM   #20823
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Does anyone know where i could buy a WORKING s13 KA24DE cluster? I cannot find one anywhere that actually works
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Old 03-12-2017, 11:24 AM   #20824
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Does anyone know where i could buy a WORKING s13 KA24DE cluster? I cannot find one anywhere that actually works


Ebay or the for sale section



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Old 03-12-2017, 03:26 PM   #20825
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Lower Steering column u joint to rack size and spline count

My fricken header didn't fit I beat the piss out of it with a hammer to dent it and let it slide trough didn't work so I took off my steering u joint. Planning on getting a double u joint, brace and weld a bracket to keep the shaft strait. My issue is i cannot find the spline count and/or size I need. I've researched even asked the guys at nissan and they can't get the specs just the oem u joint which won't work. Does anybody know the correct spline count and size of the u joint I need? 1989 240sx ka24e. I've counted about 30-31 splines but the shaft has flat spot so I counted half and doubled it and I'm pretty sure I got 18 to make it 36. Now I've used a slide caliper to try and measure the shaft and rack nub if you will and I got .679, .684, .691 basically my readings are all over the place. I've taken them numbers and tried finding a double u joint but nothing seems even close to it. Any help or insite on what I can do to properly measure or if you already know the answer that would be great. Thank you and sorry for this long mostly unimportant or relative post. Probably won't help anybody but me lol
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Old 03-12-2017, 06:05 PM   #20826
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Car has been sitting since I've thrown on a set sqaure g8s 18x9.5 +12 and havent driven the car yet due to motor issues but noticed on my same alignment but just lowered a tiny bit on new coils that I rub so much. Nothing on the fender but basically the fender well/firewall area. Havent looked too much into it besides locking the steering and feeling it rub and seeing it when I set outside of the car.

Im 90% sure my caster is maxed out. What are my options besides getting a hammer and bashing it? Should I get new arms that can give more adjustability and is there something else im missing that can nudge the wheel slightly more forward besides caster? Toe is good and camber is about 2ish degrees.

I know loads of guys run more aggressive fronts and even similar specs and never herd much about rubbing on the body? Fenders are already rolled and doesnt rub there at all.
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Old 03-13-2017, 02:43 PM   #20827
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I have a couple of questions.

1. My car has a 5 lug swap. I noticed that S15 is written on the front hub cap. Can you confirm that those are S15 arms (and spindles)?




2. I bought a Z32 Filter to replace whatever was on there. Can you confirm that this is in fact a stock filter and a stock bracket and I'm not missing anything? It just sits there in those rubberised arms with nothing to tighten?


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Old 03-13-2017, 03:41 PM   #20828
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Seems lame to ask, but i need to remove the steering wheel from an s13, and after removing all the bolts and big center nut, i still cant get it off. I"ve been wiggling and pulling on it like a mother fucker and still cant get it off. I even put a bearing puller on it and cant seem to get it off

When we took my replacement wheel off at the yard, all we did was take the center nut off and wiggle it of.

Yall got any suggestions?


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Old 03-13-2017, 03:48 PM   #20829
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazyced View Post
I have a couple of questions.

1. My car has a 5 lug swap. I noticed that S15 is written on the front hub cap. Can you confirm that those are S15 arms (and spindles)?
They probably are. S15 arms and spindles are the same as S14 with ABS though.

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2. I bought a Z32 Filter to replace whatever was on there. Can you confirm that this is in fact a stock filter and a stock bracket and I'm not missing anything? It just sits there in those rubberised arms with nothing to tighten?
Yup, filter just crams in there.
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Old 03-13-2017, 03:50 PM   #20830
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kashira kureijii View Post
Seems lame to ask, but i need to remove the steering wheel from an s13, and after removing all the bolts and big center nut, i still cant get it off. I"ve been wiggling and pulling on it like a mother fucker and still cant get it off. I even put a bearing puller on it and cant seem to get it off

When we took my replacement wheel off at the yard, all we did was take the center nut off and wiggle it of.

Yall got any suggestions?


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Yank harder. Or get a steering wheel puller, it's similar to a bearing puller.
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Old 03-13-2017, 04:08 PM   #20831
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kashira kureijii View Post
Seems lame to ask, but i need to remove the steering wheel from an s13, and after removing all the bolts and big center nut, i still cant get it off. I"ve been wiggling and pulling on it like a mother fucker and still cant get it off. I even put a bearing puller on it and cant seem to get it off

When we took my replacement wheel off at the yard, all we did was take the center nut off and wiggle it of.

Yall got any suggestions?


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Old 03-13-2017, 04:12 PM   #20832
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Tap (hit) that shit with a mallet then put your back into it..
Leave the nut at the end of the threads so you dont rearrange your face
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Old 03-13-2017, 04:52 PM   #20833
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazyced View Post
I have a couple of questions.

1. My car has a 5 lug swap. I noticed that S15 is written on the front hub cap. Can you confirm that those are S15 arms (and spindles)?
S13 lower control arm with an aftermarket ball joint. S13's have a larger bump stop whereas the S14/S15 arms have a smaller bump stop.

S13:


S14/S15:


Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazyced View Post
2. I bought a Z32 Filter to replace whatever was on there. Can you confirm that this is in fact a stock filter and a stock bracket and I'm not missing anything? It just sits there in those rubberised arms with nothing to tighten?
That's the stock filter and bracket. Nothing tightens it.
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Old 03-13-2017, 04:57 PM   #20834
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrimsonRockett View Post
S13 lower control arm with an aftermarket ball joint. S13's have a larger bump stop whereas the S14/S15 arms have a smaller bump stop.

S13:


S14/S15:




That's the stock filter and bracket. Nothing tightens it.
Thank you, anyway to check that it is in fact the correct ball joint? I want to make sure the PO didn't cut dangerous corners.
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Old 03-14-2017, 10:15 AM   #20835
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Does the headlight and wiper stalk from a Stanza/Maxima fit on the s13? I am wondering because they look the same and are significantly cheaper to buy new.
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Old 03-14-2017, 10:56 AM   #20836
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Anyone by any chance have the part number for s13 sr20det clutcj pressure plate bolts and washers? Ive searched everywhere, no luck, i found the bolts but not the washers
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Old 03-14-2017, 11:02 AM   #20837
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Anyone by any chance have the part number for s13 sr20det clutcj pressure plate bolts and washers? Ive searched everywhere, no luck, i found the bolts but not the washers
Literally under 1 minute in google... 30240-07S00
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Old 03-14-2017, 11:37 AM   #20838
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Is it just me or Nissan has no part number for the S13 fuel pump hanger itself?


I have reasons to believe 25060 is just the level sensor.
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Old 03-14-2017, 12:33 PM   #20839
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25060 is for the entire sending unit... you cannot buy anything from the sending unit separately. also, expect to pay roughly $350-$400 for a new sending unit (its actually new old stock). there is NO aftermarket solution for the sending unit either (ive checked, extensively). ive been putting off buying a brand new one for years, i just want an accurate gas gauge again... one of these days ill get around to blow $400 just to gave a correct fuel read out lol
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Old 03-14-2017, 02:07 PM   #20840
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Quote:
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25060 is for the entire sending unit... you cannot buy anything from the sending unit separately. also, expect to pay roughly $350-$400 for a new sending unit (its actually new old stock). there is NO aftermarket solution for the sending unit either (ive checked, extensively). ive been putting off buying a brand new one for years, i just want an accurate gas gauge again... one of these days ill get around to blow $400 just to gave a correct fuel read out lol
FUEL LEVEL SENSOR is a pretty bad name for a entire pump hangar. lol So 25060-35F00 is the correct part number? What about 25060-35F01?

My sensor has the correct resistance but the wiring has been raped, wires now goes straight through and holes were sealed with some urethane crap. 400$ is steep but when it comes to fuel and electricity I want something clean.

Either I try to rewire what I have or I fork out the cash. Started a thread on how to seal the wires going through but didn't get much help.
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=632644
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Old 03-14-2017, 05:10 PM   #20841
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Quote:
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Literally under 1 minute in google... 30240-07S00
Ur sarcasm means shit, 1 minute n u found nothing. I called nissan n that part doesnt exist, i found that # already
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Old 03-14-2017, 05:17 PM   #20842
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Literally under 1 minute in google... 30240-07S00
Thanks though
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Old 03-14-2017, 09:15 PM   #20843
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Hey guys, I did my research but just want to make sure before I start my search. I am looking into getting a jdm kouki headlight over the usdm one. Based upon what I searched, if I get the jdm one I would pretty much have to open it up and retrofit it because the beam pattern is different for our cars. But if I got the euro one, the beam pattern is the same as the US cars, is that true?
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Old 03-14-2017, 10:48 PM   #20844
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im guessing youre talking about S14 headlights?
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Old 03-14-2017, 11:46 PM   #20845
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You think if i ran water/meth spray a 10:1 comp ratio it would det on me?
Or would i be fine? I could possibly run e85 but would like to avoid it. I dont think its necessary unless you guys think otherwise. Not chasing #s here. Was looking at gtx2867 pushing 20-25lb of boost.
All on sr of course.
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Old 03-15-2017, 05:38 AM   #20846
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im guessing youre talking about S14 headlights?
Yes I am, sorry, I definitely should of mentioned that lol.
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Old 03-15-2017, 07:44 AM   #20847
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Ur sarcasm means shit, 1 minute n u found nothing. I called nissan n that part doesnt exist, i found that # already
Did you say "oh" instead of "zero"?? Looks like the correct part number to me.

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Old 03-15-2017, 08:09 AM   #20848
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Car has been sitting since I've thrown on a set sqaure g8s 18x9.5 +12 and havent driven the car yet due to motor issues but noticed on my same alignment but just lowered a tiny bit on new coils that I rub so much. Nothing on the fender but basically the fender well/firewall area. Havent looked too much into it besides locking the steering and feeling it rub and seeing it when I set outside of the car.

Im 90% sure my caster is maxed out. What are my options besides getting a hammer and bashing it? Should I get new arms that can give more adjustability and is there something else im missing that can nudge the wheel slightly more forward besides caster? Toe is good and camber is about 2ish degrees.

I know loads of guys run more aggressive fronts and even similar specs and never herd much about rubbing on the body? Fenders are already rolled and doesnt rub there at all.
bumppppppppppp
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Old 03-15-2017, 09:05 AM   #20849
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Why is the front spindle bearing mating area on the Driftworks front knuckles painted? Wouldnt that interfere with the overall performance? Shouldnt this be a polished surface?
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Old 03-15-2017, 06:27 PM   #20850
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Did you say "oh" instead of "zero"?? Looks like the correct part number to me.

That's because it is the correct part number... Right from FAST...

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