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Old 11-04-2013, 06:13 PM   #15301
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Thanks for considering to answer my question guys...

Not to sure but let's assume it's all stock. Not my car but I did the work and feel horrible that the pads/rotors siezed up...Everything was tighten and done correctly

Go off:
stock everything
Hawk pads
CZP rotors

thanks again
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Old 11-04-2013, 08:38 PM   #15302
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Thanks for considering to answer my question guys...

Not to sure but let's assume it's all stock. Not my car but I did the work and feel horrible that the pads/rotors siezed up...Everything was tighten and done correctly

Go off:
stock everything
Hawk pads
CZP rotors

thanks again
What? Ok look 30 mm rotors are used for z32 brakes or gtr brakes in the front. Some people opt for z32 fronts or gtr fronts and stock rears because there's a lot more work to swap rears out. Bigger brakes means you need a bigger master cylinder. 15/16 or 17/16 are the common swaps from z32 cars.

Now how is it seizing? Is it seizing just driving? Is it seizing with the slightest brake application? Need more info for us to help at all. Assuming something is gonna make us give you the wrong solution and you will fuck it up even more or worse put the person who's car your working on in danger.
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Old 11-04-2013, 09:33 PM   #15303
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brake lights, s13 hatch

Aight. Welll I've been having a problem with my brake lights. I found out that everytime I put a fuse in it would pop.. the oe ones are 20a.. and like an idiot I put a 30a in.. on the way home smoke started commin out of my dash.. so I know I messed up there and messed up something I shouldn't have.. I know I have a short somewhere but after I put that fuse in I don't think I can just fix it by finding the short. Correct? But anyway I've Bern driving with no brake lights for too damn long now and all my friends are tired of it when we go cruise or go somewhere but could I just hardwire my switch to maybe my ignition or something so ithey would work and would bypass all the Bs or would that give the tail lights too much power and blow them. Thanks guys.
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Old 11-04-2013, 10:12 PM   #15304
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrevan94 View Post
Aight. Welll I've been having a problem with my brake lights. I found out that everytime I put a fuse in it would pop.. the oe ones are 20a.. and like an idiot I put a 30a in.. on the way home smoke started commin out of my dash.. so I know I messed up there and messed up something I shouldn't have.. I know I have a short somewhere but after I put that fuse in I don't think I can just fix it by finding the short. Correct? But anyway I've Bern driving with no brake lights for too damn long now and all my friends are tired of it when we go cruise or go somewhere but could I just hardwire my switch to maybe my ignition or something so ithey would work and would bypass all the Bs or would that give the tail lights too much power and blow them. Thanks guys.
Obviously you fucked the power wire for the brake lights. The wire for the pedal is just a signal wire for a relay that takes power from a juicier wire (the one you just melted the insulation off of) and puts it to the tail lights. Buy a relay and make another circuit for it
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Old 11-05-2013, 12:20 AM   #15305
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Pretty sure stock brake master. Brakes are z32 30mm fronts and stock rear. Hawk HPS pads and centric rotors.

Brake pedals got super soft and brakes were locked too.

thanks again Dev71893 for any input
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Old 11-05-2013, 06:45 AM   #15306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingbaby View Post
Pretty sure stock brake master. Brakes are z32 30mm fronts and stock rear. Hawk HPS pads and centric rotors.

Brake pedals got super soft and brakes were locked too.

thanks again Dev71893 for any input
If you bled the brakes properly, and upgraded the fluid to a Dot 4/5, you shouldn't be having any soft pedal issues. With a higher pressure fluid, the oe master will work fine. Were the rotors machine cleaned on a rotor machine before installation or cleaned of any manufacturing coatings? This ALMOST sounds like new pads on preservative coating. The pads heat up the preservative coating and BAM seized brakes!

I know on my car I simply spec'd the stock rotors and added stoptech pads with upgraded fluid and they freakin STOP

Z32 swap is simple enough, and if everything is clean, aligned, and installed correctly there should be no problem except a lighter pedal if upgraded fluid is not used on oe master
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Old 11-05-2013, 06:57 AM   #15307
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Tuck it. It takes like 20 minutes if you're slow. Or spend hours piecing your harness back together when the tire eats it and leaves you stranded. Your choice. I feel like you haven't rolled your fenders either, so do that too. Where in florida are you
I will agree to this, Just got in the 240 game, and bought my first coupe with the chassis harness eaten up by the tire...lol
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Old 11-05-2013, 10:38 AM   #15308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingbaby View Post
Pretty sure stock brake master. Brakes are z32 30mm fronts and stock rear. Hawk HPS pads and centric rotors.

Brake pedals got super soft and brakes were locked too.

thanks again Dev71893 for any input
I would at least run a 15/16 master. Fluid flush yes but do NOT put DOT 5 brake fluid, that has silicone and has no business in our cars. Again need more details man. Idk what your saying. When you apply the brakes the pedal is super soft but they just stay locked? Where the calipers just reused without a rebuild?
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Old 11-05-2013, 01:09 PM   #15309
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Does anyone know if there is a difference between a automatic or manual transmission s14 ka24de ac bracket ?

Im looing through ebay for one , but some adds say they are for an auto tranny and some say for a manual tranny , while some do not mention any of the two.
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Old 11-05-2013, 04:17 PM   #15310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingbaby View Post
Thanks for considering to answer my question guys...

Not to sure but let's assume it's all stock. Not my car but I did the work and feel horrible that the pads/rotors siezed up...Everything was tighten and done correctly

Go off:
stock everything
Hawk pads
CZP rotors

thanks again
Where the Calipers already on the car? Are both sides locking or just one?


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Does anyone know if there is a difference between a automatic or manual transmission s14 ka24de ac bracket ?

Im looing through ebay for one , but some adds say they are for an auto tranny and some say for a manual tranny , while some do not mention any of the two.
All S14KA (and late S13KA with the R134a compressor) base brackets are the same. They have a trapezoid pattern where it bolts to the block and the cmopressor pattern is a perfect rectangle
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Old 11-05-2013, 07:50 PM   #15311
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I just got a oem momo steering wheel from Japan. They had to remove the airbags to get it shipped. Is it possible to remove the one in my current oem s14 wheel to the momo?
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Old 11-05-2013, 08:22 PM   #15312
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anyone tell me what the drivers door pocket called, that sits over the master control window switches?? im in need of one and dont know whats it called
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Old 11-05-2013, 09:58 PM   #15313
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingbaby View Post
Pretty sure stock brake master. Brakes are z32 30mm fronts and stock rear. Hawk HPS pads and centric rotors.

Brake pedals got super soft and brakes were locked too.

thanks again Dev71893 for any input
You might just have the wrong pads and/or rotors. Put the stock rotors back on and see if it goes away. With the piston completely retracted the clearance between the pads and rotor should not be tight at all, actually not even touching, or just barely touching. The fact that it was a tight fit tells me either you have the wrong parts, or the caliper is seized so bad it won't retract far enough to fit the new pads.
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Old 11-06-2013, 12:07 AM   #15314
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does anyone know what happened to jesse streeter?
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Old 11-06-2013, 12:22 AM   #15315
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1991 Hatchback SE.

So after a year with my viper alarm
my passenger door doesn't unlock, but it locks.

I hear the black box humming at the kick panel when locking but not unlocking.
Does anyone know if I need to install actuator or do I just replace that black box?
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Old 11-06-2013, 01:04 PM   #15316
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i would like to know if i have a cracked block or head, when i am having water come out where the cam is? i have drained the oil/water added new oil and im still getting lots of water still coming out
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Old 11-06-2013, 03:43 PM   #15317
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i would like to know if i have a cracked block or head, when i am having water come out where the cam is? i have drained the oil/water added new oil and im still getting lots of water still coming out
What do you mean by "having water come out where the cam is"?

From the ports?

Inside the valvecover?

???????????????????????????????????????????

What engine????????????????????????????????????????

Your description is far too lacking to answer your question...
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Old 11-06-2013, 04:28 PM   #15318
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anyone know if s15 ganadors will fit an s14?
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Old 11-06-2013, 04:44 PM   #15319
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What do you mean by "having water come out where the cam is"?

From the ports?

Inside the valvecover?

???????????????????????????????????????????

What engine????????????????????????????????????????

Your description is far too lacking to answer your question...
its a 90 240sx with the ka24de, single cam... yes inside the valve cover, yes i believe the ports, its mixing in with the oil after dropping the oil drain bolt which pretty much all that came out was water

yeah i no it was lacking stuff, just wrote it really fast sorry
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Old 11-06-2013, 06:59 PM   #15320
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Anybody have any idea where I can find a gp sports windshield banner? Or a good image of one?
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Old 11-07-2013, 02:10 AM   #15321
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would a s14 sr20det greddy pully kit fit on a s13 blacktop? And s13 pulley kit to s14?
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Old 11-07-2013, 08:36 AM   #15322
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Does anyone know the thread pattern on the the megan test pipe.. lost the bolts amd need a replacement
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Old 11-07-2013, 10:19 AM   #15323
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anyone with a tomei short shifter out there, i need the height meansurements of the metal collar.
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Old 11-07-2013, 10:25 AM   #15324
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Okay, so I've got a base S14 with 4 lug hubs. I've been looking at the idea of using Q45 brakes and just redrilling rotors. What I've read from here and here is that all I need for the front brakes are the Q45 calipers, rotors and pads. All I have to do is redrill the rotors, cut the dust shield and bolt in.

I can't seem to figure out if I can use Q45 brake parts for the rears. Is it the same "redrill and go" procedure, or am I missing something?
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Old 11-07-2013, 10:31 AM   #15325
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Chronicle, instead of refilling the rotors to 4 lug, redrill the hub to 5 lug. I've been driving mine for a few months and haven't had any issues. Jaysgottareptop has a DIY on here.
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Old 11-07-2013, 10:48 AM   #15326
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Chronicle, instead of refilling the rotors to 4 lug, redrill the hub to 5 lug. I've been driving mine for a few months and haven't had any issues. Jaysgottareptop has a DIY on here.
Redrilling the hubs sounds like a terrible idea. It just sounds like they'd be extremely fragile. If they're working well for you, what do you do with your car? How much power are you putting out?

EDIT: I found the DIY, and noticed you can't do this to the rears. That would just lead to more inconsistencies. If I was that worried about moving to 5 lug, I've buy new S14 hubs.

And my original question is still open. Can I use the Q45 rear brakes on my S14?
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Old 11-07-2013, 10:58 AM   #15327
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Anybody have any idea where I can find a gp sports windshield banner? Or a good image of one?
look for it, if not then look for the design and he can make it for you.

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Quote:
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Okay, so I've got a base S14 with 4 lug hubs. I've been looking at the idea of using Q45 brakes and just redrilling rotors. What I've read from here and here is that all I need for the front brakes are the Q45 calipers, rotors and pads. All I have to do is redrill the rotors, cut the dust shield and bolt in.

I can't seem to figure out if I can use Q45 brake parts for the rears. Is it the same "redrill and go" procedure, or am I missing something?
drilling the rotor to 4 lug would be best and, i wouldnt go q45 rear, just keep stock rear with the z31 caliper bracket to let you use a bigger rotor in back or run aggressive pads.
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Old 11-07-2013, 11:01 AM   #15328
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drilling the rotor to 4 lug would be best and, i wouldnt go q45 rear, just keep stock rear with the z31 caliper bracket to let you use a bigger rotor in back or run aggressive pads.
So, Z31 caliper bracket, but stock calipers allows for rotors that are thicker or have a larger diameter? Which rotors would work well for that setup?
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Old 11-07-2013, 11:10 AM   #15329
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anyone know the thread pitch of s14 differential cover nuts. Just the nuts that bolt the cover to the subframe. Id pull my cover but id rather not drop the diff out now that the subframe and everything else is back in(i lost my original nuts).
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Old 11-07-2013, 12:50 PM   #15330
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Chronicle,
My car is stock dualcam. I drift it a few times a month, and drive it every other day. I did it because I'm broke. If you're not worried about going 5 lug then forget it. I did it because I had some nicer 5 lug wheels. I'm 5 and 4 lug haha.

Also, the hubs are really thick metal, and the holes are spaced when redrilled.
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