Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[TunanS14]

Originally Posted by jaymatic

so I just got my 98 kouki about last week. when I bought it, the guy said that the only problem was that my front o2 sensor burned out (which I changed 2 days ago). but then the CEL was still on, which I found odd since that was the only flaw with the car. I went to a friend, who's a mechanic, told me that the tranny has been switched from automatic to manual. He said that the CKP sensor has been modified, it had a washer and tape for some reason so it could fit in the tranny which, he installed a new one for me. And, the downstream o2 sensor has been converted to an upstream and also burned out (idk why lol.) I also replaced the o2 sensor near the catalytic which was the converted one. Still, the CEL is on. My car also doesn't have a neutral safety switch. Any reason why my CEL is still on and how can I take it off? Thank you!

Check to make sure you are running the correct ECU. A lot of times people don't care to swap the Auto ECU with the correct 5 speed ECU. Same thing happened in my '96. The Auto ECU will throw a code since there obviously isn't an auto-trans in the car anymore and it's searching for the corresponding sensors. JimWolfTechnologies.com has a list of appropriate ECU's you can use for reference.

[killer240]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

Ya ever hear of anyone buying replacement bearings in a hub for a 240? No sir. All 240 hubs come with bearings in them, to include the Ichiba's we put on a hatch, the ones we put on a coupe, and the set we put on a 4 lug zenki. The reason it is cheaper to buy a new hub is because trying to replace the bearings costs as much or more

Thanks for your reply. Tell me where is this new hub with bearing that cost just as much? Timken front bearings are $50 ea and rears are $100 ea. I only use timken bearings, because I have had good success with them in all my previous cars. Besides I have arp studs on my hubs so I don't really need a new hub.

Anyone with more knowledge know if oem bearings work with ichiba front and rear hubs?

[e1_griego]

In all the conversion hubs I've used I've been able to replace the bearings with OEM or Timken replacements.

I run rear OEM hubs because they last longer than the conversion hubs.

[S14DB]

I don't understand why you would buy aftermarket rear hubs.

[dirtychubbs]

are the kouki bumper extension brackets needed to put on the 180sx front bumper? or will it fit fine with just my pig nose brackets?

im talking about these things:http://www.frsport.com/Nissan-62293-...t_p_32852.html


edit: and where can i get the nissan emblem for the front bumper? ive googled and everything i found was like over 30$ +shipping which imo is ridiculous.

[fatduece]

Can anybody tell me how to properly embed photobucket videos?

[TunanS14]

Does anyone know what I need to do to become a vendor here on Zilvia? I am not looking to do a group buy or advertise. I can't find any information about the subject. (Yes, I have ready contacted admin/mods/RJF... No reply)

[killer240]

Originally Posted by e1_griego

In all the conversion hubs I've used I've been able to replace the bearings with OEM or Timken replacements.

I run rear OEM hubs because they last longer than the conversion hubs.

Cool. Thanks. I will be getting my timken bearings.

Originally Posted by S14DB

I don't understand why you would buy aftermarket rear hubs.

I didn't feel like going to the junkyard and pulling out a set of hubs and nobody was selling OEM hubs at that time.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by killer240

Thanks for your reply. Tell me where is this new hub with bearing that cost just as much? Timken front bearings are $50 ea and rears are $100 ea. I only use timken bearings, because I have had good success with them in all my previous cars. Besides I have arp studs on my hubs so I don't really need a new hub.

Anyone with more knowledge know if oem bearings work with ichiba front and rear hubs?

Attempt Two:
Ichiba Hubs USE NISSAN Bearings, ie, OE bearings. That work for you?

[overdueBlaSiaN]

should I wait for my coils or should I install my welded diff now with my tokico shocks and lowering springs?
Or does this not even matter?
I just want to go drift

[fatduece]

Originally Posted by overdueBlaSiaN

should I wait for my coils or should I install my welded diff now with my tokico shocks and lowering springs?
Or does this not even matter?
I just want to go drift

[killer240]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

Attempt Two:
Ichiba Hubs USE NISSAN Bearings, ie, OE bearings. That work for you?

Not sure if your being sarcastic. Thanks anyway

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by killer240

Not sure if your being sarcastic. Thanks anyway

a little? All I did was check Ichiba to see what they used for bearings and it was right there...Nissan bearings, or oe. if you would like sarcasm, I could try a little harder for ya though

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

a little? All I did was check Ichiba to see what they used for bearings and it was right there...Nissan bearings, or oe. if you would like sarcasm, I could try a little harder for ya though

the bearings ichiba uses are NOT OEM factory bearings, theyre crap chinese OE style replacement bearings (big difference between OE certified and OE "style"). why do you think ichiba conversion hubs are so cheap?

perhaps instead of being a smart ass to people in the future, you can forgo the attitude as you never know when someone will come along and shut you down because your providing information that is wrong! copy and paste isnt always your friend pumpkin...

[juhd]

alright so i recently installed a walbro 255 fuel pump for my ka24de. also installed a new fuel filter. a little bit after that, one of my fuel injectors wasnt working properly. would cause the engine to shake and would cause sputtering. drove the car like this for maybe 10 miles and nothing was wrong except for the sputtering and engine shaking. i change the bad fuel injector and the sputtering and engine shaking goes away. but now, when i give it gas, the idle drops low and hesitates before the engine revs. it doesnt do this all the time though and it did make the car stall once. if i keep an eye on it i could make sure it doesnt stall. and it also feels just a tad bit sluggish on acceleration. the car also started to run rich. my question is what is causing it to do this? do i need an adjustable fpr? help would be much appreciated.

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by jaaanrel

do i need an adjustable fpr?

that would be a yes... your fuel pressure is sitting around 55-60psi right now, needs to be back down around 32psi.

[juhd]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

that would be a yes... your fuel pressure is sitting around 55-60psi right now, needs to be back down around 32psi.

would this fix the revving hesitation/dropping idle before it revs? why wasnt it doing this when i had the bad fuel injector in? also would it be bad to drive like this for a while?

[e1_griego]

The stock FPR should work fine.

[SidewayzAsFck]

Does anyone know what size bolts are used to bolt an SR ac compressor bracket to the block? And what size bolts to install the compressor itself to the bracket? This is for a s13 sr20det redtop. I have searched and the one piece of info I found was wrong. Pm me plz

[Lompang]

What aero looks mostly stock for fenders? I need some nice fenders that's mostly stock looking with no vents cause I'm not a fan. I can't find any decent stock ones that aren't dented or taxed for being stock fenders.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

the bearings ichiba uses are NOT OEM factory bearings, theyre crap chinese OE style replacement bearings (big difference between OE certified and OE "style"). why do you think ichiba conversion hubs are so cheap?

perhaps instead of being a smart ass to people in the future, you can forgo the attitude as you never know when someone will come along and shut you down because your providing information that is wrong! copy and paste isnt always your friend pumpkin...

Hey, I looked up Ichiba and bearings. Everything I saw said either Nissan or OE. I am certain pretty much everything out there with the exception of OE probably uses some cheaper version, but I shall in all earnestness refer to your breadth and depth of experience oh grand one

I was only referring to the call out for sarcasm, since a quick, not research quality, look on google provided an ample answer TO FITMENT, not quality, which was what was being asked. If you want to educate we dirty unwashed unknowing on the finer points of quality, please proceed sir, in all due haste!

[juhd]

Originally Posted by e1_griego

The stock FPR should work fine.

If the stock fpr is working fine then whats causing my car to do this? Is it the injectors? I only changed one and prior to changing it, it never gave me this problem

[e1_griego]

Sounds like vac leaks.

It could be a dying fpr, I suppose, but throwing in a walbro doesn't automatically require a new FPR.

[juhd]

Originally Posted by e1_griego

Sounds like vac leaks.

It could be a dying fpr, I suppose, but throwing in a walbro doesn't automatically require a new FPR.

Checked for vacuum leaks and there seems to be none.

[bmaddock]

Get a cheap inline fuel pressure gauge to verify fuel pressure with and without vacuum source. My bet is on pinched injector o-ring. Go to hardware store and replace all your injector o-rings. It's silly cheap and make sure you use a little oil around them when installing to prevent them from binding.

I had a Walbro 255 and a stock FPR that never had these issues so don't worry about the 255, it should be fine. Your fuel pressure will be slightly higher because of it but not enough to cause noticeable hesitation you're describing.

[JrDarknes]

One of my headlights is out on my hatch, bought a new headlight still Dosent come on. Bought a new switch and installed it, still Dosent come on. Check the fuses they are all good, what else could it be??

[David48]

The injector probably isn't seated all the way. The first time I replaced an injector I did the same thing. It ran so rich that the exhaust was pretty much all raw gas. You might want to pull off another injector cap to compare how the new injector is supposed to sit in the rail.

[ScRote20det]

Swapped z32 brakes and booster on my s13.... After it warms up I get a squealing from my brake booster under light pressure... After I stop I can apply the brakes fully or completely let them off...and the noise quits....light pressure and it starts again. Really think its vacuum prob coz when I apply brakes my idle goes up and down. Drives me crazy....and is really embarrassing sitting at a stop light with my booster yelling. Please help

[juhd]

Originally Posted by bmaddock

My bet is on pinched injector o-ring.

I had a Walbro 255 and a stock FPR that never had these issues so don't worry about the 255, it should be fine. Your fuel pressure will be slightly higher because of it but not enough to cause noticeable hesitation you're describing.

when i put the new injector in, it fit in perfectly without any problems so i doubt the o rings mightve been pinched, but i will check it out. and yeah the hesitation makes me stall out whenever im only trying to move up a couple feet in 1st gear or trying to park, if that makes sense lol.

Originally Posted by David48

The injector probably isn't seated all the way. The first time I replaced an injector I did the same thing. It ran so rich that the exhaust was pretty much all raw gas. You might want to pull off another injector cap to compare how the new injector is supposed to sit in the rail.

it looks pretty seated to me. but i also forgot to mention that i am using a brand new 240sx fuel filter instead of a 300zx fuel filter. should i have gotten the 300zx one instead or?

[e1_griego]

No, the filter doesn't matter, either.