Wheel fitment whore thread (Stretch/Flush) *NO SPECS, NO POST!*

[sniperjza]

just as title says i need these wheels for my supermade s13coupe. i would love the specs of these wheels and tires if possible .. thanks in advance guys

[RIMTUCK]

__________

[articdragon192]

More pics:

[AWDalbert]

maybe

[TheTimanator]

^^^^ what the specs on those? It's extremely rare to see a gc with aggressive fitment (although the rear sticks out to much for me or needs negative camber/smaller tires). All I ever hear about is wheel bearings failing when this is brought up.

[stlthftr1]

i've seen worse , it's temporary anyhow
16x8.5 -16 epsilon with 225/40/16, 16x8 +13 ssr with 5mm spacer making it +8 with 205/40/16 , i'm super ghetto so it's on cut springs ,

enjoy temporary slightly good fitment.

[AWDalbert]

its true our wheel bearing suck, GC are very hard to fit aggressive.

anything below +33 is considered pushing it alot of fender work is needed.

my wheels aren't aggressive at all they just look it because I have GD rear end which gives me a 16mm wider track

tires size is 225/50/r16

16/8 et+45

not agressive offset at all,

have a minor pull and rolled fenders

Originally Posted by TheTimanator

^^^^ what the specs on those? It's extremely rare to see a gc with aggressive fitment (although the rear sticks out to much for me or needs negative camber/smaller tires). All I ever hear about is wheel bearings failing when this is brought up.

its actually a movement, right now. Subaru people are going aggressive but its a tad harder than it is with Nissan.

real aggressive GC=






the Aggressive thread for the GC and GF Faithful - NASIOC

[awFilms]

^^ hahaha thanks for posting my car?? i am HYPHYmoment on Nasioc.

heres more photos of my car. mine are +22 with spacers.

[sb253]

^^ needs more +48

[Camo]

Originally Posted by Black240Ct

18x9.5 rears, i think they only came in like a 25 offset but im running 25mm bolt on spacers.. just got 50 mm rears to cover the hit and run damage on one side and the dimple from rolling on the other

Updated pics of this with overs?

[Teddy]

Shitty.

17x9 +20 (with 25mm spacer)
215/40

[jorge1190]

could i pull off a 17x9+30on the front of my s14 with a 5 or 7 mm spacer. i dont wanna run 10mm because i dont wanna have to use extended studs. I have bridgestone NPG coilovers.

[uthemofo]

no...just no....

[opponheimer]

SSR AD's
Front: 17x10.5 -4 / 235-40R17s
Rear: 17x11.5 +6 / 255-40R17s

To fit:
Rolled front and rears, relocated chassis harnes and ran hood cable through engine bay, and slight pull in the rear. No wheel spacers!


i know i need to go lower... first i have to beat out the front wheel wells with a sledge hammer!!

[Matej]

Front: 18x9 +0, 215/35
Rear: 18x10 -13, 225/35

Want to go lower and switch to 215's in the rear.

[JVD]

I <3 you matej

[sneakerjunkie]

Originally Posted by awFilms

^^ hahaha thanks for posting my car?? i am HYPHYmoment on Nasioc.

heres more photos of my car. mine are +22 with spacers.

WOW ur car is soo clean.
rules:
ssr vienna sovereign
front:18x9 +13
rear:18x9+3
+25mm spacer all around

[shreeveco]

at the risk of being flamed for not rocking 18x12 -25 all around (random ballin' wheel size), here are some "wheel" fitment pics. keep in mind, this car is daily driven on shitty oregon roads. i was actually rubbing in the rear before switching to a smaller tire size.

[TheRonTom31]

This thread is getting good again

* I know my non informational post just conrtadicted what i just said and ruined everything but,

good work to everyone on this page

[Paul2x]

So Sick Edgar .... One of the best wheels of all time!

Very nice!

[wh0aitznic0]

Originally Posted by Matej

Front: 18x9 +0, 215/35
Rear: 18x10 -13, 225/35

Want to go lower and switch to 215's in the rear.

I see perfection.

<333

[Slammed180]

Ok, so I'm trying to figure out if an 18x10 -7 wheel would fit (without MAJOR modification) on the front of my S13 hatch. I used a wheel offset calculator, and compared to a 18x9 +12 wheel, these would extend an extra 25mm. I already have Origin 20mm fenders and JIC coils. Would these fit and not bind with just some camber, tire stretch, and hammered lips? or would I need to tub the fenders for proper clearance? I looked through here for similar set-ups, but I didn't see anything.

[SoSideways]

Originally Posted by Slammed180

Ok, so I'm trying to figure out if an 18x10 -7 wheel would fit (without MAJOR modification) on the front of my S13 hatch. I used a wheel offset calculator, and compared to a 18x9 +12 wheel, these would extend an extra 25mm. I already have Origin 20mm fenders and JIC coils. Would these fit and not bind with just some camber, tire stretch, and hammered lips? or would I need to tub the fenders for proper clearance? I looked through here for similar set-ups, but I didn't see anything.

Be prepared to run some more positive caster so when you go full lock to the left, you won't rub the wiring harness.

BTW I have 17x9.5 -7 w/ Federal 595 235/40/17s. Soon to switch out to FK452s in 235/40/17s.

[Slammed180]

Originally Posted by SoSideways

Be prepared to run some more positive caster so when you go full lock to the left, you won't rub the wiring harness.

BTW I have 17x9.5 -7 w/ Federal 595 235/40/17s. Soon to switch out to FK452s in 235/40/17s.

I'm re-routing the wiring harness through the engine bay, to eliminate any possible gremlins in the future.

So other than this, you don't think there would be any clearance issues??

[SlideAlliance]

Not unless you are running modified knuckles

[SoSideways]

Originally Posted by Slammed180

I'm re-routing the wiring harness through the engine bay, to eliminate any possible gremlins in the future.

So other than this, you don't think there would be any clearance issues??

It might still rub where the GROMMET is, not the actual harness.

My harness is out of the way, but the tire is still rubbing the GROMMET part.

Guess it's time to put more caster in... and probably open another can of worms.

[BillWatcher]

You should not have any problems with the harness. I not and I had a set of wheels almost exactly that size just a little more aggressive. Just take a hammer and get some anger out for a little bit on the inside and sport about -4 of camber. This is if you are planning on being pretty low.

[Slammed180]

Originally Posted by BillWatcher

You should not have any problems with the harness. I not and I had a set of wheels almost exactly that size just a little more aggressive. Just take a hammer and get some anger out for a little bit on the inside and sport about -4 of camber. This is if you are planning on being pretty low.

I'm going as low as possible. I was rockin -3.5* of camber before my rebuild. -4* shouldn't be hard to accommodate. I also removed the grommet thingy out of there and filled the hole. So that's not an issue either. What about my P/S? will I need to upgrade to hardlines, or a cooler? or anything like that?

[upSLIDEdown]

Originally Posted by SoSideways

It might still rub where the GROMMET is, not the actual harness.

My harness is out of the way, but the tire is still rubbing the GROMMET part.

Guess it's time to put more caster in... and probably open another can of worms.

That's where I had a problem. Search "harness" under my username and you should find some posts about how I fixed that problem. I'm leaving now and don't have time to find it. Somebody find it and post it. It worked out really well. I haven't had any trouble since.

[Slammed180]

Be this the one?

Originally Posted by upSLIDEdown

You've got it pretty high(motegineon)... You might have trouble getting the fender to go back on. I dunno. I had mine like that but it still wasn't high enough. BTW, for those of you that do this method, some of my zipties broke at one point and I started rubbing through the harness again. KEEP AN EYE ON IT. I ended up buying some stainless steel zipties at Harbor Freight to hold it up there. Then I got new wheels and went lower and had to relocate it through the engine bay. You guys with the harness over the strut tower really should have taken the time to do it right. Mine is run right by the frame rail, and the only wires I had to extend were the 2 wires for the parking light, and redo one little ring terminal ground. Looks SO much cleaner. My main problem was I actually rubbed through the rubber grommet taking the harness through the firewall. It rubbed it and popped it out of the firewall, then ripped a chunk out of it. I ended up with a much better solution and it should never rub again. Here's a couple of quick pics. The flash made it look a LOT more... textured, than it really is.




Basically what I did was take the grommet out and make a "false firewall" to cover the hole. The grommet is like 4" in diameter, but the harness is only about an inch thick. My grommet was ripped to shreds from rubbing, so I need another solution. The reason I couldn't use a new grommet is the firewall needs to be flat where the hole for the grommet is, and needed the beat the fuck out of that area to stop the rubbing.

So, I went Advance Auto Parts and picked up a few sticks of a product by JB Weld ( I think it's called Stick Weld or something). It comes in a little plastic tube. It's basically a 2 part putty form epoxy. It's in a little log roll shape, and the outside is light grey, the center is dark grey. You break of a section of it and knead it until it's one uniform color, then apply wherever you want. The problem with this stuff is it dries very quickly, so you have to have everything exactly the way you want it and work VERY quickly. I bought like 4 tubes of that and what's called a body patch. It's basically a very thin piece of mesh designed to repair holes in body panels so you can bondo over it (it's made by Bondo).

The patches are adhesive backed, so I cleaned it really well with Brake Cleaner to get the adhesive off, then scuffed both sides of it with like 220 (or was it 100, I dunno). Then I scuffed the edge of the hole in the firewall where the grommet once resided. Then I proceded to "reform" that area to my exact specifications with a precision instrument I like to call 'Brutus' (my BFH). I beat on the firewall until it was concave enough that I though it wouldn't rub. Then I beat it some more. I pulled the harness all the way to the top of that hole. Since it normally goes through the center of the grommet, therefore the center of the hole, pulling it up to the top gives you another inch or two clearance. That's where I was rubbing the harness, not in the middle, but the back, because it had to come down to the center of that hole to pass through the firewall. Anyway, I pulled the harness up to where I wanted it (all the way at the top) then took a 1/2" extension and beat on the area right behind where the harness would be to kind of "notch" it (for lack of a better word). This lets the harness sink back in the firewall a bit and be even more out of the way. It also helps to keep the harness still and immobile. I took a short piece of 1" heater hose and sliced it lengthwise and wrapped it around the back side of the harness where it pressed against the firewall, just to be safe. Then wrapped the entire section in electrical tape (3M of course). I drilled one hole on each side of the "harness notch" and put a stainless steel ziptie around it to hold it in place.

Then I made a template for the mesh out of paper. I made it over hang the edge of the hole about 1/4"-1/2" all the way around, and cut out a notch for where the harness went through. Once I got that exactly the size I wanted it, I traced it onto the body patch and cut it out. I cut it a little bigger than the paper to be safe and then trimmed it down. The mesh patch needs to be pressed up to the hole and "formed" to the shape of the newly beaten firewall (kinda curved), that's why I made it a hair bigger than the template. Once that fit perfectly and I was sure there was enough clearance for the harness, I was ready to actually make the "false firewall."

I opened the tubes of Stick Weld (or whatever it's called) and cut a bunch of small sections off, so they were ready to knead. I also had a cup of water handy to dip my fingers in, because it smoothes out much better if you fingers are wet. Once everything was ready and wiped down with alcohol, I was ready to start.

I took the patch panel that I precut to the perfect size and started kneading some SW (Stick Weld). Once it was one uniform color, I pressed half on one side and half on the other side, so it "sandwiched" the mesh. I started in the middle and worked my way to the outside. The SW is easier to knead it it's in smaller sections. Too big and it takes forever to get it one color. So I kept doing that until the entire piece was covered in SW. I also made sure the notch for the harness had enough SW on it so that the edge of the notch was smooth, no jagged metal poking out that could hurt the harness. Then I held it up to the hole and used some more SW to go all around the edge of it, pressing it onto the pre-scuffed/cleaned firewall. Kept doing this untill I was comfortable with the amount of overlap I had on the firewall.

Then it has to dry, which takes 24 hours IIRC. After it's dry, I fill the gap around the harness with clear silicone caulking so now water could get in (all the fuses/wiring are just on the other side of that firewall). Done and Done.

There was one thing I forgot to do that I wanted to do when I was doing this, but I got caught up in a rush and totally forgot. I was going to make a little "ear" or two on the mesh patch and put a couple tiny litle #6 screws through it into the firewall (make sure they're short because of the fuses/wiring behind the firewall). That way the SW isn't the only thing holding this panel to the firewall in case it happens to come loose one day. As long as the firewall is scuffed really well with 100 grit, I don't think it'll be a problem, but I wanted to do it anyway.

BTW, my hood release doesn't spring back either, and it's been rubbed through in at least one spot. I think that's why, don't think it has to do with relocating it, because mine didn't start acting wierd till it started rubbing.

Hope this helps some people out, I hadn't anticipated writing this much, I just kinda did. If anyone needs any clarification, let me know.