This is the roll center, suspension pickup, and steering angle modification thread.

[!Zar!]

Matej: Here you go. POWER MOVE!: Proud to announce

[DC Dan MAX USA]

Don't know for sure right now on final price but so far it's looking like 25% less than the others.

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by DC Dan MAX USA

Parts Shop MAX PRO steering knuckle modification:

$400 plus return shipping
Availability - NOW

This is the most aggressive knuckle available today with up to 62 degrees of angle, 45mm roll center correction and the lowest possible ackerman.

caution! - this is only for real men who relentlessly pursue the art of throwing cars at 90+ degrees of drift angle
wussies need not apply.

Gosh dang it Dan, just when I'm all set to make my own set of knuckles, you come out with the next step up.

Parts look awesome as usual.

[SicBastard]

Some of those backwards entries are insane!!! And 45mm of correction... Nice work as usual MAX.

[DC Dan MAX USA]

Thanks guys! My car was already dialed in with the old setup but it would almost drift itself which was still fun but the predictability made me look for more...power, or so I thought. Now with the new quicker, lower ackerman knuckles and the reduction of caster with the new LCA / pro coil over top plate, the car wants to accept my input more instead of having it's own happy trajectory. Being able to throw it so much harder and sustain the drift down the straights longer means that I am using wide open throttle so much longer than ever before, so I am drifting with more speed, angle and smoke. Bottom line is the car is more exciting to drive.

In the video I am just getting to know it again but Kado gave me backwards entry training, and it's way out of my comfort zone. I can throw 90 degree entry intuitively but to do what kado does, it's counter intuitive. It feels like your falling off a cliff to me right now so with the new setup I have a lot of work to do to bring my driving level up to the cars capability. Initially it felt very different, but it is growing on me quickly and I can tell there is way more room to push the limits of my car and it's little stock turbo.

[swiftmini]

Parts shop max is so gangsta its unreal

[ka-titties]

$150 for a skid plate? come on. i'm not fucking retarded.

anyway, that rack spacer looks really nice. and those entries were sick.

[Matej]

MAX gentlemen, it would be totally radical if you made some cool super-elastic dust boots to match with all your other neat steering items. Possibly to also accommodate the offset spacers or spaced out tie rods better than the hard OEM boots.

I was considering purchasing these Megan silicone ones, but blue does not really go with my colour scheme.

[!Zar!]

Just buy the megan ones and paint them with latex/rubber paint.

[s14unimog]

Originally Posted by DC Dan MAX USA

Ryans car is truely amazing, did you all see this???

I see a lot of front tire dragging, huge loss of momentum and unintended line changes.

[Motary]

I have a question about this:



What if I change the angle of the steering arm pickup point to match that of the lower control arm balljoint one?

[PoorMans180SX]

Then your tie rod ends won't thread into your tie rods. The end won't have enough articulation angle to handle that kind of shank angle.

[jumpman2334]

Originally Posted by Matej

I was considering purchasing these Megan silicone ones, but blue does not really go with my colour scheme.

are you really serious right now?

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by jumpman2334

are you really serious right now?

Yes, he is. Now if you don't have something constructive to add, go away.

[Motary]

Okay, that figures, so the only way to use these long shanks is to move the toe arm pickup point to keep factory ackermann angle right

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by Motary

Okay, that figures, so the only way to use these long shanks is to move the toe arm pickup point to keep factory ackermann angle right

Yes it is. Might as well shorten the steering arm while you're at it, quicker steering is nice.

[Z33dori]

so with the increased steering speed with knuckles, does this allow you to maintain faster steering return w/o running 9 degrees of caster?

[Matej]

Originally Posted by jumpman2334

are you really serious right now?

Yes and no and yes.

Can anyone confirm that S14/R33/R33/Y33/Z32 FLCA are the same length?
I have been researching if there was a longer interchangeable OEM arm made.

It seems there was not.

[PoorMans180SX]

S14 and R33 arms are the same length. I don't know about Y33 or Z32.

Maxima arm doesn't have the right hole pattern for bolting up the tension rods.

If you want a longer LCA, I would say you should just cut and extend some stock ones. It's like $80 shipped from rockauto.com for a new pair, and having someone cut and extend them is like...$50 or something. I plan on doing this myself soon. I'll get some pictures up soon.

[Matej]

Tell me how silly this is, but what if instead of extending the FLCA for more camber, one would just drill out new holes in the front subframe to move them out more? It seems there is enough room on both S13 and S14 front subframes for it. This would also allow for the FLCA to be mounted higher.

Sorry for using your picture, 95KA-Turbo.



Of course, new holes would need to be drilled in the arm for the tension rod and swaybar to line up.
Would this be dumb and unsafe?

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by Matej

Tell me how silly this is, but what if instead of extending the FLCA for more camber, one would just drill out new holes in the front subframe to move them out more? It seems there is enough room on both S13 and S14 front subframes for it. This would also allow for the FLCA to be mounted higher.


Of course, new holes would need to be drilled in the arm for the tension rod and swaybar to line up.
Would this be dumb and unsafe?

It's what Silkroad used to do. Just higher up though. I don't think they moved it out.

[95KA-Turbo]

The only real issue you have with moving the LCA inner mount up is getting your tie rods parallel so you don't have bump steer. I believe the tension rod has just as much room it can move up as the LCA inner pickup can, so that's just as simple of a fix.

Have you considered taking your coilover perches to a machine shop and having them drill another top hole in them like 10-15mm further in? You'd loose inner clearance between the coilover and wheel but you'd gain a lot of camber and not mess up your other suspension stuff - not to mention adding a spacer would probably be in order for the added camber.

[SicBastard]

You also add quite a bit of anit-dive, unless you raise the tension rod the same amount.

[PoorMans180SX]

Extending the LCA is by far the best option. It gives you more tension rod and sway bar clearance and doesn't mess with your steering axis, bumpsteer, or anti-dive.

[95KA-Turbo]

Doesn't it also push the whole wheel further out?

So by lengthening the LCA you get a wider track width and more negative camber - where as a new top hole for the coilover perch gives you less wheel inner clearance and....? I would assume it effects the kingpin angle negatively if you do it excessively.

[PoorMans180SX]

Yes, wider track and more camber. The camber can be taken out with a top mount, which also corrects steering axis, and bam, no negative effects.

Re-drilling the lower mount changes your steering axis, alters how much tire contact you have at lock, and doesn't help your sway bar or tension rod clearance.

[Patrick Bowering]

Originally Posted by 95KA-Turbo

Have you considered taking your coilover perches to a machine shop and having them drill another top hole in them like 10-15mm further in? You'd loose inner clearance between the coilover and wheel but you'd gain a lot of camber and not mess up your other suspension stuff - not to mention adding a spacer would probably be in order for the added camber.

This messes with scrub radius and steering axis inclination really badly doesnt it? The Ultimate Handling Guide Part 8: Understanding Your Caster, King Pin Inclination and Scrub this goes over king pin inclination and scrub radius. Or am i just being crazy.

[!Zar!]

If you all are increasing front track, what are you doing to increase the rear track?

Why do you want/need more camber?

[codyace]

Originally Posted by !Zar!

If you all are increasing front track, what are you doing to increase the rear track?

Why do you want/need more camber?

Mo Camba' = Mo Betta'

I'm only able to get 2.75 on my current setup with the T3 upper plates and Richard's housings for the 8611's, as the spherical housing hits the strut tower) I'd love to get 3/3.25 with slicks, and was considering slotting the upper hole in the coilover...but now I may extend the lower control arm after the next track day to get some more cambe -- dumbass me never even considered that.

[Csomme]

Originally Posted by !Zar!

If you all are increasing front track, what are you doing to increase the rear track?

Why do you want/need more camber?

Running more camber up front will increase your leading wheel contact patch at full lock. Paired with the right caster, this is pretty awesome.

A lot of guys don't run much camber to have TONS of camber out of the leading wheel at full lock, this is beneficial to a certain extent, because it will "lift" up that corner of the car, putting more weight on the opposite end, resulting in more rear bite.