How To: DIY Paint and Body work

[blueshark123]

Originally Posted by RichieRichJPN

No wonder!
From all of the different threads I've read about sanding body filler, we (Father and I) concluded that 80 grit was a safe bet - which apparently it isn't. Additionally, I have read that the grit on the body filler needs to be aggressive enough for primer to stick. Being that it's porous, that seems like misinformation...
2 layers of primer was laid down, but I think I'm going to go back over some of the areas my father did because his sprays look too light and may not have a 50-50 overlap on the spray.
Thanks

Make sure surface has been wiped clean with wax grease remover before even starting the fix.Seems like you read incorrectly sand down the dent or area u are filling with 80 grit then fill the sand down till smooth i normally sand down to 220 grit then clean area again before laying primer.

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by tapdeznutz

what grit sandpaper did you finish with on the kitty-hair filler? i would say 280grit is "smooth" enough to apply primer. How many layers of primer did you lay down? The body-filler/bondo or whatever you are using for that matter will suck up the primer, that is probably what you are seeing after it dries. Guess you didnt use a smooth enough grit before the primer and you didnt lay down enough layers. primer is a really heavy coat so its suppose to fill in some sanding imperfections but not if its too rough. Well just my babble, GL.

Primer doesnt need to be thick nor is it used to fill sanding scratches, you will get sand scratch swelling after a few weeks under the fresh paint. The surface should be at a min finished with 180 grit prior to the primer. If you spray the primer heavy it will cause you more work in the end. Two medium coats is all that is needed

[Dany]

I have the same problem too everytime I lay sum primer ( 1.light coat with 2 medium coats) on body filler areas u can see the spots and im finishing the body filler area with 280-320 am I doing something wrong? Should it be like that or u shouldn't be able to see the body filler sucking up the primer?

[S14TEENZ]

good stuff in here.

[tapdeznutz]

Originally Posted by buentellomma

Primer doesnt need to be thick nor is it used to fill sanding scratches, you will get sand scratch swelling after a few weeks under the fresh paint. The surface should be at a min finished with 180 grit prior to the primer. If you spray the primer heavy it will cause you more work in the end. Two medium coats is all that is needed

thanks for the clarification. I just assumed that 2-3 coats was what everyone was doing.

[tapdeznutz]

Originally Posted by Dany

I have the same problem too everytime I lay sum primer ( 1.light coat with 2 medium coats) on body filler areas u can see the spots and im finishing the body filler area with 280-320 am I doing something wrong? Should it be like that or u shouldn't be able to see the body filler sucking up the primer?

i always started with spraying primer on the area with bondo first and give it a bit of time to suck up the primer. then started on my 2-3 coats of primer.

[side-ways-action]

wow great work

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by Dany

I have the same problem too everytime I lay sum primer ( 1.light coat with 2 medium coats) on body filler areas u can see the spots and im finishing the body filler area with 280-320 am I doing something wrong? Should it be like that or u shouldn't be able to see the body filler sucking up the primer?

Its fine, if after you sand the primer and can still see the body filler then you have issues

[Dany]

kool kool thanx man ^^

[kingston240]

if you can see a change in the primer, you will see the spot through the paint.

You shouldnt be able to see any spots through the primer before you lay up your color. Remember, primer is way cheaper than finish paint.

Personal reccomendation: i dont reccomend any aerosol products...even "spot" primer meant for auto body. They have always turned out horribly for me.

[Super_OK_S13]

ok guys. after i sanded the all the filler smooth i primered it to see what it looked like and see any flaws i needed to fix..



then i sanded the primer and added seam sealer followed by another shot of primer to seal the seam sealer since i let it cure for a couple days before i wanted to spray color.



sanded it with 400 grit and prepped it with a light wipe of acetone to get the grease and dirt off then right before the bay was sprayed i wiped it down with a tack cloth.



here is a picture of some of the suspension parts installed.

[7x13]

I miss spraying...

DuPont Certified and I end up selling car parts XD

[tapdeznutz]

Damn JIMMY, you are the man. that shit is clean as fawk!

[Super_OK_S13]

thanks!! im pretty happy that I did the body work and the bay came out better than I thought!!

the only thing I didn't do was spray the white. I had a friend who paints come over and do that with his gun and experience of laying it down. the first time he came over and sprayed it , it fish eyed and had some dust and a run or 2 in the paint. before he came over the 2nd time, he told me to sand it with 600, then I wiped it with acetone and before he sprayed it the 2nd time which is the last pic, wiped it with the tack cloth.

it is just a single stage paint, which I wanted base/clear but he said he the single stage will still look pretty glossy. I probably would have had runs all over if I would have attempted to spray it... =/

[Dany]

[/QUOTE]
Step 5 : Allow the base coat to air dry for atleast 30mins before moving to the next step( as it drys the base coat will have a flat color look). If your doing a two tone or stripes mask your design off with 1/4" masking tape and use masking paper to cover the areas not needing the new color and apply the base coat using the same steps as above. [/QUOTE]


so im doing a two tone also all i have to wait is 30-40 min to apply my next color? why do some ppl wait hours? or even a day to apply next color?

[buentellomma]

Step 5 : Allow the base coat to air dry for atleast 30mins before moving to the next step( as it drys the base coat will have a flat color look). If your doing a two tone or stripes mask your design off with 1/4" masking tape and use masking paper to cover the areas not needing the new color and apply the base coat using the same steps as above. [/QUOTE]


so im doing a two tone also all i have to wait is 30-40 min to apply my next color? why do some ppl wait hours? or even a day to apply next color?[/QUOTE]

30-40 mins is just the average time it took for it to dry while i sprayed. You can wait as long as you want but if you exceed 8 hrs the base coat needs to be scuff sanded prior to any paint applied to it.

[Dany]

okay kool kool cuz im doing a block top and maroon bottom i do the maroon first let it dry mask my line and do the black right?

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by Dany

okay kool kool cuz im doing a block top and maroon bottom i do the maroon first let it dry mask my line and do the black right?

Do your light color first, mask your line and then mask off the maroon area, spray your black then demask and spray clear

[Dany]

Originally Posted by buentellomma

Do your light color first, mask your line and then mask off the maroon area, spray your black then demask and spray clear

thank you just making sure

[Dany]

oh yea! and any tips on doing two tones? as in wen i do my first color and mask it for black should i try and not make it too thick where the tape is at? should i spray farther in that area? any info would help greatly!!

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by Dany

oh yea! and any tips on doing two tones? as in wen i do my first color and mask it for black should i try and not make it too thick where the tape is at? should i spray farther in that area? any info would help greatly!!

Spray pass the area a little then lay out your lines. If you spray heavy around the tape line you will have a hard edge, spray light-medium coat near the tape

[tiggertsi]

Originally Posted by silviaks2nr

lord god that is amazing. what year is that? and it is a 750 right? did you make the oil tank yourself? i really like how it sits in the frame; very compact. also looks like you have a makerbot in one of the pics, you dog! i am very jealous.

i have a 76 cb750 ss that i have down to the frame at the moment. putting a later model gsxr aluminum swingarm on it to allow me to mount a 180 in the rear. and i am putting an inverted fork gsxr front end and triples on it after i finishing pressing the stem outta the stock triples.

[Dany]

Originally Posted by buentellomma

Spray pass the area a little then lay out your lines. If you spray heavy around the tape line you will have a hard edge, spray light-medium coat near the tape

okay okay and u used a 2k paint system right? wat kinda paint did u use by the way?

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by Dany

okay okay and u used a 2k paint system right? wat kinda paint did u use by the way?

Yes base coat clear coat system, i prefer the dupont brand paint

[Dany]

kool man out of curiosity how much are their paints??

[crzsteveo]

ive tried automotivetouchuppaint.com

there paint comes pre diluted. there clear coat is a 2 part urethane.

so far I just did a test with it and its holding up pretty good with rock chips and cracking of fiberglass. the paint hasn't like flaked at a crack.

I did rattle can primer, one coat of base, and one coat of clear. nothing fancy or a great finish to it. just wanted to test it before I go all out painting my entire car.



heres what my garage sort of looked like.

I had one square fan in my window, another by the door sucking air from my house with towels in the cracks to catch things.



before it had a metallic black rattle can front end.



got tired of it.

sanded down, minor body work



patching cracks and holes





about to spray the primer



and final product. not really anything fancy. like I said im just messing around with painting and the paint itself.

[silviaks2nr]

if you did 3 coats of clear it probably would have come out decent. You can likely sand the car really lightly with 1000 grit and shoot 2 more coats on top.

[soundboy]

i need to take out a rear wing on my car, rather than replacing the entire lid. what can i use to cover the holes on the current one? i rather not do any welding, i saw a small bit of fiberglass and some automotive filler to be the best shown here.

help.
i also need to touch up my door jams, dunno how it got discolored and the paint starting to scrape out, i might just sand a bit and go with a mild rattle spray

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by soundboy

i need to take out a rear wing on my car, rather than replacing the entire lid. what can i use to cover the holes on the current one? i rather not do any welding, i saw a small bit of fiberglass and some automotive filler to be the best shown here.

help.
i also need to touch up my door jams, dunno how it got discolored and the paint starting to scrape out, i might just sand a bit and go with a mild rattle spray

Welding is the best way, if you try to fill holes with body filler or glass it will crack out and leak water

[Frank_Jaeger]

Originally Posted by soundboy

i need to take out a rear wing on my car, rather than replacing the entire lid. what can i use to cover the holes on the current one? i rather not do any welding, i saw a small bit of fiberglass and some automotive filler to be the best shown here.

Sand off some of the rust, and apply por 15. From the underside, apply a fiberglass patch to each hole. Make sure you push outward and hold something flat and non sticky (i.e. espresso tamper covered in wax paper) over the other side of the hole so the patch comes up and is mostly flat. Use filler for the rest and sand smooth. And if it ever cracks on you, just do it again. This is not a good solution, however if you don't have access to a welder it'll work to some extent.