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Old 07-17-2014, 05:51 AM   #1
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Old 07-18-2014, 07:43 PM   #2
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Old 07-18-2014, 05:33 PM   #3
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Old 07-27-2014, 06:33 PM   #4
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Old 07-27-2014, 08:05 PM   #5
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Old 07-27-2014, 10:46 PM   #6
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Old 07-28-2014, 11:12 AM   #7
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Old 07-28-2014, 11:22 AM   #8
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For those of you running open wheel wells (cut for tubs but no tubs). How's that working for ya? I rub and would just like to cut the wheel wells but don't have the money/resources to tub at the moment and would just leave them open. Would the bay get super dirty? I daily my s14 and it rains quite a bit here in Failorida
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That's because everyone with a zenki feels sorry for themselves and they find commonality in the fact that there's no hope for making them look remotely good.
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Old 07-28-2014, 11:27 AM   #9
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My friend runns completely open front wheel wells from the tower forward on the VH swap we did. Here in NJ we get a decent amount of rain, but it is all the little rocks, sand and salt that kills everything. He just houses everything off every couple days, spray everything down with degreaser or soap to loosen everything up and it comes out ok. Keeps it clean. Just run your car for 10 minutes after driving in the rain or washing at idle to heat it all up and dry it out if you are real anal. That's what I do after washing my engine bay
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Old 07-29-2014, 08:09 AM   #10
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My friend runns completely open front wheel wells from the tower forward on the VH swap we did. Here in NJ we get a decent amount of rain, but it is all the little rocks, sand and salt that kills everything. He just houses everything off every couple days, spray everything down with degreaser or soap to loosen everything up and it comes out ok. Keeps it clean. Just run your car for 10 minutes after driving in the rain or washing at idle to heat it all up and dry it out if you are real anal. That's what I do after washing my engine bay
Oh ok nice. No salt issues here and roads are clean so not so much worried about little rocks. Just the rain. Time to get cutting!
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Old 07-29-2014, 08:15 AM   #11
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good luck to you.

I suggest if you are going to cut out that much metal though, you do some reinforcing afterwards.
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Old 07-29-2014, 09:41 AM   #12
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good luck to you.

I suggest if you are going to cut out that much metal though, you do some reinforcing afterwards.
Plan is to tube front. Just haven't had the time to put it down for a period of time. It's my daily and I go to school full time and work.
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Old 07-29-2014, 12:56 PM   #13
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For those of you running open wheel wells (cut for tubs but no tubs). How's that working for ya? I rub and would just like to cut the wheel wells but don't have the money/resources to tub at the moment and would just leave them open. Would the bay get super dirty? I daily my s14 and it rains quite a bit here in Failorida
It is stupid enough on a track car, do not do it on a daily car. Most people who tried it end up having to do tubs after all.
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Old 07-29-2014, 12:58 PM   #14
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For those of you running open wheel wells (cut for tubs but no tubs). How's that working for ya? I rub and would just like to cut the wheel wells but don't have the money/resources to tub at the moment and would just leave them open. Would the bay get super dirty? I daily my s14 and it rains quite a bit here in Failorida
Just get a bigger hammer and bang harder.
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Old 07-29-2014, 11:12 PM   #15
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QFab Motorsports sponsored Pro Amateur drift car in the works. Come a long way but still have a lot to do...hoping to be able to record and share first startup videos this coming weekend.


Personal build that was traded and parted out by the last owner...this one put me on the map. Every swap component was hand made by me and a friend except for the driveshaft.


A friend's built SR20det/Holset HX40 setup in his S13. All electrical work done by me.


A friend's VH45 swapped Sil coupe, all built and wired in house using Mazworx swap components.


A friend's low 10/high 9 second 2G DSM. All electrical work done by me.
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Old 08-20-2014, 06:03 AM   #16
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A friend's built SR20det/Holset HX40 setup in his S13. All electrical work done by me.


[/IMG]
Seems like your friend is in the same boat as me. Big turbo with little sidefeed injectors. limiting the potential of our engines.
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Old 07-29-2014, 08:56 AM   #17
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Old 07-30-2014, 02:36 PM   #18
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I'd love to see more of that VH Silvia. I'm curious about the hood and exhaust clearance.
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Old 07-31-2014, 04:34 AM   #19
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I'd love to see more of that VH Silvia. I'm curious about the hood and exhaust clearance.
Hood clearance does not exist with a VH45. You either:

1. Run Spacers = Ghetto
2. Cut a big hole or multiples. Yes some VH swappers let the intake manifold and some other parts poke through their hood. = Ghetto
3. Run a custom hood, cowl, vent etc. Even the origin hood wouldn't work. = Ghetto

I did option #3 when I was VH, now I hate it as it serves no purpose on my LS swap. My VH lasted 100 miles before it blew and I fucked up an awesome brand new chargespeed hood to make the custom hood. But at least I had no parts sticking out or hood spacers.
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Old 07-30-2014, 10:39 PM   #20
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I don't think the correct word is "clearance", unless you're discussing a severe lack of it. The structure under the hood was removed and there is still a need for a 1" spacer due to the massive plenum. The fitment of the headers is actually fantastic, besides the fact that the passenger header hangs almost an inch lower than the driver's side, and this car in particular is slammed on its nuts. I should be able to snag some current photos in the next week or two.
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Old 07-30-2014, 10:43 PM   #21
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Old 07-30-2014, 11:51 PM   #22
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Old 07-31-2014, 04:31 PM   #23
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Or you can space down the crossmember.
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Old 07-31-2014, 04:45 PM   #24
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Or you can space down the crossmember.

would there be any down side for this?
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Old 07-31-2014, 04:53 PM   #25
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The hood issue might be bad with the mazworks mounts.

A friend of mine and I built a joint drift machine with this motor we used wes q45 adaptor plate, with the excessive mounts. The excessive mounts sit much lower and give you side to side adjustment for the rack pinion. We cut some of the hood webbing out and 1 1/4 hood spacers and it closes fine. No issues.


As for the guy who said this motor sucks and blew it in 100 miles and went ls1. I'm sure the ls1 is great but the vh45 is no slouch. He beats the ever living piss out of this motor to 7k in 2nd and 3rd all day at events. Its a 94, non-siamease port with 56k miles on it. We did nothing to the motor but drop it in and headers. Plus it sounds amazing, much louder and nastier than any ls I have seen on the street or track. It is a solid motor if you take care of it. I mean the thing comes stock with 6 bolt mains. You never find that on an ls.

So yeah. My experiences with it all.
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Old 08-01-2014, 06:48 AM   #26
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Quote:
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The hood issue might be bad with the mazworks mounts.

A friend of mine and I built a joint drift machine with this motor we used wes q45 adaptor plate, with the excessive mounts. The excessive mounts sit much lower and give you side to side adjustment for the rack pinion. We cut some of the hood webbing out and 1 1/4 hood spacers and it closes fine. No issues.


As for the guy who said this motor sucks and blew it in 100 miles and went ls1. I'm sure the ls1 is great but the vh45 is no slouch. He beats the ever living piss out of this motor to 7k in 2nd and 3rd all day at events. Its a 94, non-siamease port with 56k miles on it. We did nothing to the motor but drop it in and headers. Plus it sounds amazing, much louder and nastier than any ls I have seen on the street or track. It is a solid motor if you take care of it. I mean the thing comes stock with 6 bolt mains. You never find that on an ls.

So yeah. My experiences with it all.
Reading isn't ur strength is it. I don't believe I stated a vh45 sucks. I simply stated mine, which was used with extremely low miles I.e. almost new, blew before I had put 100 miles on a 6k swap. I used the entire xcessive kit so I think I have more then enough time money and effort to know that the hood don't close. The xcessive mounts aim the motor towards the passenger side of the car. They don't offer any steering rack adjustment whatsoever as the rack is fixed to the crossmember by the two brackets that hold it on. Headers determine steering clearance on a vh swap not the mounts/block. Mazwox headers fit and clear just fine with xcessive mount. Yes the xcessive mounts have some slotted holes that allow a very finite amount of wiggle room but not much. They also dip the motor severely on the passenger side requiring shims to level it. This has been veried by several of us on v8nissans.

You cut the webbing and still added 1.25" spacers. So your drift machines hood still don't close! Adding spacers doesn't qualify as "dat shit werks bro" it's fucking ghetto

btw, the ls comes with 6 bolt mains on EVERY version of the block from 4.8l iron blocks to the ls7. Know your shit before you spout stupid on the interwebs.
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Old 07-31-2014, 05:09 PM   #27
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would there be any down side for this?
It would affect the front suspension geometry, but no worse than excessively lowering the car, and it can always be corrected with aftermarket parts.
The main downside is that it would bring the crossmember that much closer to the ground. But if you only need a centimeter or two to get the hood with the bracing already cut out to clear, it should be alright.
Or you could lower the motor mount seats on the crossmember. Just get the motor as low as possible, depending on how much room it has above the steering rack. Possibly also lower the steering rack if necessary. As long as you know someone who can weld the crossmember, the possibilities open up.
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Old 08-01-2014, 12:49 AM   #28
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It would affect the front suspension geometry, but no worse than excessively lowering the car, and it can always be corrected with aftermarket parts.
The main downside is that it would bring the crossmember that much closer to the ground. But if you only need a centimeter or two to get the hood with the bracing already cut out to clear, it should be alright.
Or you could lower the motor mount seats on the crossmember. Just get the motor as low as possible, depending on how much room it has above the steering rack. Possibly also lower the steering rack if necessary. As long as you know someone who can weld the crossmember, the possibilities open up.

Lots of ways to do it. I was more looking into the easy basic way to do it.
I think the best way to do it if you don't want spacing the hood is to notch the top part of the tarantula intake manifold.
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Old 08-01-2014, 11:15 PM   #29
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Old 08-02-2014, 05:15 AM   #30
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