This is the roll center, suspension pickup, and steering angle modification thread.

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by sr vegas 240

Any more info on this price? When it will be available?

The price is unchanged. The current price at this point in time can be seen on our website.

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by Bnr32gtr

Thanks for the help boys! Tucking like a boss and going to buy some better arms tonight ether gk tech or voodoo 13 Prob gk tech cuz of cost but they don't seam like they have lot adjustment. Any input?

The GKTECH arms have over an inch of adjustment (more than anyone will ever need)

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by dazed

I should have waited for PBM's new forged rear knuckles. They finally support drum e-brake. They basically did it how the Driftworks/Era 1's are, how they mount on opposite sides and are flipped upside down.

I think that you will find that the feedback from most running a setup like this is that it isn't great due to slack in the cable from being in a different position to OEM.

[sr vegas 240]

Originally Posted by GKTECH

The price is unchanged. The current price at this point in time can be seen on our website.

How do I order it's not listed on the site and when can I expect it?

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by sr vegas 240

How do I order it's not listed on the site and when can I expect it?

Send us an email and we'll get it sorted to [email protected]

The V3's to the US warehouse will be around 3-4 weeks.

[sr vegas 240]

As you have seen my pictures I have s14 knuckle so than I'd just get s14 knuckle and everything should fit.

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by sr vegas 240

As you have seen my pictures I have s14 knuckle so than I'd just get s14 knuckle and everything should fit.

Yes, the knuckles are a direct replacement.

[sr vegas 240]

Originally Posted by GKTECH

Send us an email and we'll get it sorted to [email protected]

The V3's to the US warehouse will be around 3-4 weeks.

Sent the email Sunday still no response.

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by sr vegas 240

Sent the email Sunday still no response.

I found your email in the spam folder and have just replied. Sorry for the delay.

[sr vegas 240]

I placed the order it came out about $30 more than the v2

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by sr vegas 240

Sent the email Sunday still no response.

Originally Posted by sr vegas 240

I placed the order it came out about $30 more than the v2

Yes, the V2's are currently being run out. We'll end up in the future with 2 different versions based on a grip setup and a drift setup (the V3 being the drift setup). Rather than 1 that's in the middle like our current V2.

[stuckonfresh]

pic for thread: New GKTECH vs OEM Knuckle comparison:

[sr vegas 240]

Looks sweet can't wait to get mine in

[ka-titties]

What's everyone's opinion on the relationship between the vertical angle of the tie rod pick up point to the king pin. or even the relationship to the ground? the first set of knuckles i cut and welded i tried to mimic the stock angle, and the ball joint on my SPL outers hit the LCA, limiting achievable angle. on the second set i made the pick up point more vertical and now i'm getting a lot more angle.

[Motary]

The actual steering pivot point is not the hole in the knuckle but the center of the balljoint sphere, if you changed the angle, you changed ackermann geometry

[Tearlessj]

Anyone know if any of the cts-v brake caliper brackets will work on the gktech knuckles?

[Bnr32gtr]

From my understanding you can make them work. Have to cut/trim one of the braces off,I'm pretty shore gk tech said it was ok to do so and would not affect The integrity And strength of them, but I just sold mine and went back to z32. I Was to pussy to cut my brand new knuckle.

[stuckonfresh]

.

I was having trouble getting some caliper adapter brackets (Z32 caliper to the Z33 "track" rotor) to fit on the GKTech knuckles today, but I think I may have figured out a solution, which may or may not help with that CTS-V caliper adapter bracket (I'm not familiar with the CTS-V calipers):

So, the GKTech knuckles have those ring/pipe reinforcements around the caliper mounting holes on the backside of the knuckles, which in this case, prevented these adapter brackets from sitting flush against the backside of the caliper mounting holes- how they would normally sit with the OEM Nissan knuckles.

Now as much as I would love to CAD up a new bracket and have it made, I'd just like to figure out a temporary solution for now, without cutting into the reinforcement metal on the knuckles, to make sure all clearances checkout okay.

After orienting the bracket:


Loosely fitting caliper and rotor with bracket (washer just thrown in to roughly judge spacing):


Quick sketch of what I'm thinking (spacers would be thick-walled and with inner and outer diameters that are fitting for the application's bolt size and surrounding area near its mounting surfaces; longer hardware too:


The gap between the smaller spacer, "long extension" of the caliper bracket, and the knuckle is negligible (shown in the sketch above)- and actually a tiny bit of material will need to be removed from the outside edge of the knuckle's mounting holes (maybe a mm or two-nothing that should greatly affect the mounting hole's strength), so that both holes of the adapter bracket will line up with the knuckles caliper holes. Right now the "long extensions" of the caliper bracket are making contact with the knuckle and preventing the bracket's mounting holes from lining up with the knuckle's mounting holes.

The one thing that I'm kind of concerned with is the potential "leverage" this setup could create without a strap of metal connecting the two mounting holes on the other side of the bracket (shown near top of sketch above); although there shouldn't be any real significant lateral force to explore this leverage, I'm thinking maybe road vibration could stress the "crease" of the bracket- point at which the long extensions meet the main body of the bracket?

Lemme know what you guys think, I'm interested to hear all your opinions on this.

.

[derass]

I have 3 thoughts on this matter:

1) Both spacers will have to be an equal height; you have to space the caliper forwards as far as you space the bracket back. This will ensure the caliper is centered over the rotor as it was designed.

2) I agree with you about the leverage involved, especially since you would be increasing the length of the bracket's "legs" even further. The strap you mention is a good solution. I would go one step further and also use the strap as the spacer between the caliper and bracket. This will require some precise measuring and simple machine work.

3) I'm not a fan of the Z32 caliper / Z33 rotor combo because of the pad overhang. I won't bother with the calculations, but it's likely that the benefit of increasing the rotor diameter is negated by reducing the pad's contact area. Additionally, the strange pad wear.

[Tearlessj]

After looking at your photos. Looks like none of the adapters would work for the cts-v calipers EXCEPT the Mazworx kit.

[stuckonfresh]

.
Yes, any adapter brackets that mount on the "wheel side" of the knuckles should work; including the CTS-V adapters from Mazworx, STi brembo adapter brackets, and I'm sure some others; since the face of the GKTech knuckles are like the OEM knuckles.


The OEM 240 front caliper centered well on the OEM 240 rotor during a quick mock up on the GKTech knuckles.

I'm still stuck on this bracket spacer dilemma. Derass, thanks for the feedback, good points. That's a great idea to make the strap and smaller spacer one piece to make everything a little simpler in design.

I'll have to check clearances again, but from what I remember: without machining down the caliper's mounting surfaces (remove whatever strap thickness is) the "strap" would put the caliper out of center on the rotor.

I'm thinking if used, the strap would mainly be just to limit any movement from turning the wheels or road vibrations, so it could be pretty thin- if only used for that purpose. While there would be a potential point of leverage, maybe the wall thickness/height of the spacers and bracket along with the 12mm hardware should help hold the structure?

[PoorMans180SX]

I'm curious as to why you guys are running such heavy, gigantic calipers? Are you running 255 R-comps on the front or something? CTS-V stuff is crazy overkill for a sub 3000lb car.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

I'm curious as to why you guys are running such heavy, gigantic calipers? Are you running 255 R-comps on the front or something? CTS-V stuff is crazy overkill for a sub 3000lb car.

Cost VS ***


Much cheaper than 986 Calipers or Big Reds.

[godrifttoday]

it looks cool!

[Black R]

Anybody running these currently?

http://www.gktech.com/index.php/cnc-...trol-arms.html

I'm unsure which options to order for my s13 - I already have the gktech 40mm roll center correction kit...

I really want to get the longer arms AND the +20mm balljoint shank...

Why shouldn't I do this?

[GKTECH]

There's no reason not to run the +20mm shank if your car is lowered around 60mm. Ie. 40mm +20mm. The longer shank will reduce the scrub radius a little also. Note that the RC correction kit maxes out around 60 degrees even with further wheel clearance so if you're looking for maximum lock I'd suggest running our complete drop knuckles.

Regards,
Greg

[ka-titties]

Originally Posted by Black R

Anybody running these currently?

http://www.gktech.com/index.php/cnc-...trol-arms.html

I'm unsure which options to order for my s13 - I already have the gktech 40mm roll center correction kit...

I really want to get the longer arms AND the +20mm balljoint shank...

Why shouldn't I do this?

I've got a set on order.

[Black R]

Originally Posted by GKTECH

There's no reason not to run the +20mm shank if your car is lowered around 60mm. Ie. 40mm +20mm. The longer shank will reduce the scrub radius a little also. Note that the RC correction kit maxes out around 60 degrees even with further wheel clearance so if you're looking for maximum lock I'd suggest running our complete drop knuckles.

Regards,
Greg

Thanks for the reply Greg.

Will I have any trouble with fitting the +20 balljoint shank with the 40mm rollcenter correction kit if I'm running 18" wheels?

Right now I'm not looking for more lock, but I need new LCA's anyway, so I might as well get your kit.

For knuckles, I'd definitely buy GKTECH in the future.

[GKTECH]

I'd suggest having a look at your current setup and look to see if you have room for an extra 20mm. Every wheel differs in internal clearance but I think it will be very tight if it dies fit (not a problem, just that I can't give a definitive yes).

[Jorgs_7]

Ok here's a question for all:

Not a full blown dedicated drift or track car.

What would be the best combo for most angle, without extending LCA's? So basically, if I wanted to road course the car or drive to work, I don't want -6* of camber.

Combination is in regards to aftermarket knuckles, outter tie rods, inner tie rods, tie rod spacers, ball joints, offset rack bushing, etc.