This is the roll center, suspension pickup, and steering angle modification thread.

[sick96gst]

Originally Posted by ka-titties

lets not forget that the first page has a wealth of information:

Depending on your knuckle/LCA/tie rod end combo, you're probably going to need longer tie rods. Here's a nice list of lengths:

89-94 240sx.. 11.10" (m12x1.25)
95-98 240sx.. 11.37"
94-99 maxima 11.42"
96-99 i30...... 11.42"
97-01 Q45..... 12.00" (same with 01-06)
00-04 i30...... 12.91"
99-03 maxima 12.91"
03-08 maxima 13.30" (same with 04-06)
PSM Spherical....12.5"

Are any of the factory tie rods stronger or weaker then others?

[hellaslows13]

Originally Posted by derass

Seeing as that Moog outer is made from cast iron, minimum thread engagement would be approximately 1 x Diameter, or 14mm.

Maxima outers are approximately 1" longer than S14 and might be a good option for what you're trying to do. It was discussed in here recently, search to find the exact model year.

Thank you! I wanted to know what the minimum thread engagement would be. Didn't know exactly how to search this information.

[ka-titties]

Aligned my s14 this past weekend.

Front:
Camber -4
Toe 0
Caster 7

Rear:
Camber -1
Toe 0

I'll see how i like this setup. I'd like to do an event or two on it, then mess with the caster and see how i like it.



The setup:

[coolblue]

Originally Posted by badbob2121

Need some guidance, Why is the FLCA hitting the rotor? What am I not understanding here?




S13 PBM Forged Knuckles
S13 PBM FLCA/Tension Rod combo

I had the exact issue as I'm running the same brake setup.
I ended up machining the rotor hat down something like .2", can't remember the exact number. Figured the amount by placing washers on the studs until everything cleared and then measuring the amount.
This also solved another issue in that the caliper would not have been centered over the rotor with the PBM knuckles by the same amount.
Everything lined up perfectly with the stock knuckles though, except my rotor did dig into the stock control arms at lock.
Maybe AZ ZCar updated the design from when I bought mine to give more clearance?
Pushing the rotor out further though on the stock knuckle would have required a different mounting bracket though.

[badbob2121]

Originally Posted by coolblue

I had the exact issue as I'm running the same brake setup.
I ended up machining the rotor hat down something like .2", can't remember the exact number. Figured the amount by placing washers on the studs until everything cleared and then measuring the amount.
This also solved another issue in that the caliper would not have been centered over the rotor with the PBM knuckles by the same amount.
Everything lined up perfectly with the stock knuckles though, except my rotor did dig into the stock control arms at lock.
Maybe AZ ZCar updated the design from when I bought mine to give more clearance?
Pushing the rotor out further though on the stock knuckle would have required a different mounting bracket though.

So I confirmed the issue was the rotor offset, as you mentioned. Simplicity has always been a priority in my build. So instead of machining the rotor hat or having hub spacers/caliper bracket spacers made I decided to buy 30mm Z32 rotors to compare, and its a pretty big clearance difference. I have pictures for comparison but cant post them here from work.

It sucks, as I loved my Wilwood setup, but I have already sold the kit for a price im happy with and will be running a fresh 30mm Z32 front setup for 2015.

But atleast I am able to move forward and actually put the car on the ground haha.. Thanks for the help guys!

[Nissansota240]

Just got a batch of these done, looking forward to scalloping out my own lcas and really seeing potential angle of our knuckles. We will be working on making our own version of toe/traction/tension/rucas as well for the schassis hopefully later this month.

[TheRealSy90]

Interesting seing the tie rod mount not moved in towards the ball joint as much as the typical knuckle.

[Nissansota240]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

Interesting seing the tie rod mount not moved in towards the ball joint as much as the typical knuckle.

There is such a thing as moving the tie rod pick up point to far in. You can add more stress and over center easier if its to short. So these are setup to avoid that, you still get quicker steering and plenty of angle with these while avoiding the issues from having a extremely short pickup point.

[dionkouki]

Hoping this is the correct place to post this.

I've got a set of Zeal Function D coilovers I'm trying to install on my s14. Fronts are currently valved for 9k and run a 7" 9k swift spring. I want to swap springs to 7k and while I'm at it if I can go to a 6" spring that would make things so much cleaner.

Measured piston stroke at 80mm
Current 7" Swift 9k has a usable stroke 87mm and max stroke 113mm
New 6" Swift 7k has usable stroke 89mm max stroke 96mm

When I look at the numbers it seems I should see no difference in ride quality or suspension travel due to the shorter spring. Same usable stroke and though the max stroke is shorter it's still much larger than the piston stroke which would hit it's bump stop first. Am I oversimplifying it? When I called Endless the person I spoke with said the shorter spring would definitely change how the car felt. I don't see how and hoping one of you suspension gurus can explain it to me since I can't find any in depth info on this. Thanks.

Background info for those interested. Running 17x9 +30 GTR33 wheels with 255/40/17 tires. Currently fit perfectly flush with fender and sides with my Tein SS coils. Zeals have a smaller offset from knuckle to strut and an oversized spring perch. The spring perch is digging into the side of the tires. 1" shorter spring would allow the perch to sit above the tire and solve my issue. Otherwise I have to run a 10mm wheel spacer or 5mm spacer and camber bolt with positive camber to offset the top of the wheel away from the strut and then compensate by adding more negative camber at the camber plates. Would also require pulling the fender or adding more negative camber to prevent fender rubbing. I don't consider the car as that low. Have about 3/4" tire to fender gap.

[AJZax]

Yeah I don't like the tierod arm shortneed too much. I've driven a couple other peoples' knuckles and think that it's "too twitchy". In terms of stress, I wouldn't be worried about it if your welds are good. (I also gusset the pick up)

I noticed most people (at least around here) make knuckles, but they don't calibrate bump steer when relocating tierod arm. I've driven some horrid knuckles like this lol. They feel "fine" sideways, but I'm pretty anal about getting bump calibrated from lock to lock, as well as 'static'.

[Nissansota240]

Yeah, was referencing stress on the tierod itself. I have no worries about the quality of the weld and any stress placed upon it causing any issues.

[CaBS]

Originally Posted by Nissansota240

Just got a batch of these done, looking forward to scalloping out my own lcas and really seeing potential angle of our knuckles. We will be working on making our own version of toe/traction/tension/rucas as well for the schassis hopefully later this month.

What are the specs for these? (ie how much rc correction)
Good for circuit as well?

[TheRealSy90]

I don't belive they have modified roll centre.

[Nissansota240]

Originally Posted by CaBS

What are the specs for these? (ie how much rc correction)
Good for circuit as well?

There is no roll center modifications done to these knuckles. As for circuit I am not sure, I have only ever used them for drifting, and they are designed to run close to zero ackerman as possible.

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

I don't belive they have modified roll centre.

Correct

[CaBS]

Ah I'm mainly interested in the RC adjustment without all these other tweaks unfortunately for me most of the stuff available is aimed at drift and hardcore steering angle.

[derass]

One option for you would be to use adjustable FLCAs that offer RC correction due to their extended balljoint shanks.

[TheRealSy90]

Moog makes RC correction ball joints as well.

[Croustibat]

i think the correction moog offers is only 1.5cm, tops. Better than nothing i guess, but not enough.

[AJZax]

you can see that the ball joint pick-up is not moved, hence no roll center correction.

I am still developing and refining angle kit. Really excited! But along the lines of circuit, next month I should be doing an auto-x stock ackerman, quick steer, roll center corrected knuckle. I can do that for people.

[CaBS]

Originally Posted by AJZax

you can see that the ball joint pick-up is not moved, hence no roll center correction.

I am still developing and refining angle kit. Really excited! But along the lines of circuit, next month I should be doing an auto-x stock ackerman, quick steer, roll center corrected knuckle. I can do that for people.

What sort of construction?

[derass]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

Moog makes RC correction ball joints as well.

Originally Posted by Croustibat

i think the correction moog offers is only 1.5cm, tops. Better than nothing i guess, but not enough.

Any more info on this? If they offer 15mm of correction, that's pretty good considering that at approximately 20mm the LCA begins to interfere with the brake rotor. Seems like a simple, cost-effective option.

[Croustibat]

Except 15mm correction is nowhere near anyone needs.

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by Croustibat

Except 15mm correction is nowhere near anyone needs.

This is true.

My TDP kit is currently undergoing hell in this Michigan winter. The tie rod heims have developed a small amount of play with all this salt water, but I kind of expected that. It is pretty fun though.

I need to find a better way to update the first page, I should have probably split it into a few more posts haha.

[DJPimpFlex]

I only read this thread when you post haha. You're nuts driving a car with a suspension kit that costs more than the whole car is worth in the snow.

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by DJPimpFlex

I only read this thread when you post haha. You're nuts driving a car with a suspension kit that costs more than the whole car is worth in the snow.

I know! Haha. I figured it would be a good torture test... but really it's my only car and I couldn't stand going back to stock parts after experiencing the awesomeness that is this kit, hahaha.

Definitely not driving it next winter, the snow here is wayyyy too deep and destructive honestly.

[PIN GIO 2]

anyone have thought about GKTech - S-Chassis Offset Strut Tops with PBM knuckle and 25mm extended lower control arm?

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by PIN GIO 2

anyone have thought about GKTech - S-Chassis Offset Strut Tops with PBM knuckle and 25mm extended lower control arm?

Seems like a good basic setup. You'll find a lot of people run something similar.

The want is so strong:



Interesting that Robbie@TDP doesn't feel the need for anti-roll bars front or rear for drifting. I'm not sure if it's just a ride height thing or if it's genuinely not needed. My car feels awesome right now, but it's 4x4 at the moment. It'll be interesting to feel it at it's summer ride height.

[Def]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

Moog makes RC correction ball joints as well.

Info on this? Is it the same as the Megan Racing RC BJ that doesn't do squat?

[LuckyX2]

I was looking into the GKtech rear uprights and found it curious that they increase anti-squat. I thought the general consensus was that the s-chassis has too much anti-squat as is?

What are the best knuckles/uprights for grip anyway? I currently have Geomasters and I'm not sure how I feel about them.

[Motary]

Originally Posted by LuckyX2

I was looking into the GKtech rear uprights and found it curious that they increase anti-squat. I thought the general consensus was that the s-chassis has too much anti-squat as is?

It was increased because the value decreases a lot with lowering, going to pro squat.