Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[e1_griego]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

If you had a 30 spline NISMO GT Pro, it was more than likely meant for either an R34 GTS-t or S15 Silvia. Nissan never produced an R200 or R230 rear end that utilized a 30 spline diff other than those two...

Probably my mistake then and they were 29.

I thought that's the reason the Nismos came with their own output shafts because they're differently splined.

[chato de shamrock]

[QUOTE=chato de shamrock;5942035]A few days ago (comment #18584) I posted about getting poor MPG and the smell of gas inside my car. Sunday night check engine light turned on. Yesterday I got code P0130, front oxygen sensor 5 circuit. Prior to getting code I opened up the cover hiding the fuel pump to inspect any kind of gas leak. Once I removed the top I noticed a strong odor of gas and small signs of moisture by the electrical connections. In the picture you can also tell the electrical connections seem to be wet or moist. According to the guy at the shop, the P0130 code refers to the oxygen sensor. My question is, are both the check engine (P0130) and gas outside of the fuel pump be related or separate issues? Could it be that one of these issues caused the other, for example the gas leak triggering the check engine light? Is my fuel pump done for? Again, I'm driving a stock KA with no modifications and only pump 91 gas. Up until this point my car runs perfectly fine with the exception of the poor MPG i'm getting. Thanks in advanced for any advice you folks can offer.

Found more gas build-up after inspecting the hoses today. Hoses dry, electrical connections wet.http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...915_122317.jpg

[zombiewolf513]

O2 sensor has nothing to do with a fuel leaking anywhere

[Crazyced]

Originally Posted by chato de shamrock

A few days ago (comment #18584) I posted about getting poor MPG and the smell of gas inside my car. Sunday night check engine light turned on. Yesterday I got code P0130, front oxygen sensor 5 circuit. Prior to getting code I opened up the cover hiding the fuel pump to inspect any kind of gas leak. Once I removed the top I noticed a strong odor of gas and small signs of moisture by the electrical connections. In the picture you can also tell the electrical connections seem to be wet or moist. According to the guy at the shop, the P0130 code refers to the oxygen sensor. My question is, are both the check engine (P0130) and gas outside of the fuel pump be related or separate issues? Could it be that one of these issues caused the other, for example the gas leak triggering the check engine light? Is my fuel pump done for? Again, I'm driving a stock KA with no modifications and only pump 91 gas. Up until this point my car runs perfectly fine with the exception of the poor MPG i'm getting. Thanks in advanced for any advice you folks can offer.

The O2 sensor issues and your gas leak are unrelated. But a faulty O2 can definitely cause very poor gas mileage. Replace it.

As for the connection. I'd say take the fuel line off the canister and inspect it/replace the clamps for new one. You could also take the entire canister off and inspect it for seepage through the electrical connection.

[5280VertDET]

It's either a leaky sender unit gasket or one of the fuel lines. All cheap and sorta easy to fix. I'd put my money on the hoses being cracked, even just a little crack with that much fuel pressure can cause what's happening.

[Drama]

Kinda of stuck pulling off the SR head. ARP studs are stuck in there, and I have no wiggle room to move the head around the stationary timing guide. Is my only option removing the oil pump and removing the timing guide?

[Reece]

I have one of the super old school SAFCs with spinny knobs on my car right now, I bought it that way. I haven't touched anything on it. It seems like if I try to use more than half throttle in 4th and 5th gear it cuts out, and it also doesn't like to rev past 4k at times. Any way I could adjust the SAFC settings to make that stop or at least help?

[e1_griego]

If your SR ( I assume SR) is all stock, put everything back to stock and pull that thing.

[JrDarknes]

Sorry if this is a dumb question. Trying to start my RB20 but my CAS, igniter and coolant sensor plugs don't fit. I have the wiring specialties harness made for the s13 but for some odd reason those 3 connectors will not go in (seems to be a tad bit too small). Will I be fine if I cut those 3 and wire my old connecters to if In?Thanks

[dukiespice]

Are Infiniti q45 brake rotors interchangeable? Specifically 02-03 with '95?

[juhd]

anyone know the thread pitch on an oem s13 cat? the nut came loose and fell off and now i have an exhaust leak

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by juhd

anyone know the thread pitch on an oem s13 cat? the nut came loose and fell off and now i have an exhaust leak

machine style thread, bolts can be had at any hardware store (its where i got mine). just pull the other side out and drive over there. the drive will suck, but at least youll have the bolt pitch in hand. took me about 5 minutes to find a bolt that worked at my local Ace Hardware in digging thru their nuts and bolts drawers.

[kingkilburn]

I need to troubleshoot my AC. Does anyone have a decent guide for the s13 KADE AC system?

[R3b]

Anyone around here thats shipped a motor before? Looking to ship basically everything, be around 350 pounds 48x48x36 from miami to vegas. Ive been getting quotes and its around 500 bucks for business with dock to residential. Does that sound about right?

[JrDarknes]

Just installed new fuel 255lph fuel pump, now fuel pump fuze won't stop blowing. I'm positive everything is wired right. It's just black and red. Is this because I don't have a aftermarket fuel pressure regulator??

Also is there a way to test for spark on my rb20? It cranks but won't start. Gets fuel (before I upgraded fuel pump) and the cas works.

[zombiewolf513]

Originally Posted by JrDarknes

Just installed new fuel 255lph fuel pump, now fuel pump fuze won't stop blowing. I'm positive everything is wired right. It's just black and red. Is this because I don't have a aftermarket fuel pressure regulator??

Also is there a way to test for spark on my rb20? It cranks but won't start. Gets fuel (before I upgraded fuel pump) and the cas works.

Its because something is certainly NOT wired right. One of the wires has a weak connection, broken power wire thats grounding, or hanging on by a thread, and drawing too much current and poping your fuse. Nothing to do with the pressure or regulator

[kashira kureijii]

Originally Posted by JrDarknes

Just installed new fuel 255lph fuel pump, now fuel pump fuze won't stop blowing. I'm positive everything is wired right. It's just black and red. Is this because I don't have a aftermarket fuel pressure regulator??

Also is there a way to test for spark on my rb20? It cranks but won't start. Gets fuel (before I upgraded fuel pump) and the cas works.

Check the wires first,
but if they're fine, put a 20Amp fuse in instead of whatevers in there, stronger fuel pump may draw more power,
thats what happened to me recently on my 240 w/255, never messed with the fuel pump wiring other than the 2 wires, and its been working fine with the 20amp fuse, doesn't blow

[Calirich]

Just installed a new stage 3 clutch and new flywheel. Drove it for maybe 30 miles and now I started to hear a "clanking" noise (like a baseball card in the spokes kind of sound). It only occurs when I pull off or when I go into a new gear. But once I get into the higher RPMs and more speed the sound goes away. I can't seem to find the source of the sound. Any suggestions??

'97 kouki

[NismoKnights13]

The throw out bearing is on back words?


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[Agent S14]

just rebuilt my S15 SR with oversized Nissan pistons, I started the car 4 or 5 times ran it for no more than 2 minutes each time because I kept finding oil leaks .anyways I told a friend my situation and he told me I shouldn't turn off and shut off a engine during this time or ill lose compression. im freaking out now. I know where the 2 oil leaks are and I am fixing it at the moment its the oil pressure sensor and a oil turbo line. but did I mess up my motor already


please help

[Dboyizmlg]

Originally Posted by Agent S14

just rebuilt my S15 SR with oversized Nissan pistons, I started the car 4 or 5 times ran it for no more than 2 minutes each time because I kept finding oil leaks .anyways I told a friend my situation and he told me I shouldn't turn off and shut off a engine during this time or ill lose compression. im freaking out now. I know where the 2 oil leaks are and I am fixing it at the moment its the oil pressure sensor and a oil turbo line. but did I mess up my motor already


please help

No, it should be ok

[a13x.]

anyone got the redtop SR20 valve cover partnumber S13/180sx?

thanks

[Lompang]

Almost got my car running just one problem that I can not figure out. The car when starting it cold runs fine, but as soon as it gets to operating temperature the car RPMs drop to almost stalling when letting go of the gas. Any reason why it only happens when the car is warmed up? Coolant temp sensor? I pulled codes out of the ecu but it gave me nothing.

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by Lompang

Almost got my car running just one problem that I can not figure out. The car when starting it cold runs fine, but as soon as it gets to operating temperature the car RPMs drop to almost stalling when letting go of the gas. Any reason why it only happens when the car is warmed up? Coolant temp sensor? I pulled codes out of the ecu but it gave me nothing.

check your Idle Air Control Valve and the voltage on your Throttle Position Sensor.

start up loop is completely different than normal operating temperature loop.

[3rd_Degree]

Hey everyone, this is going to fall into the "stupid question" category. I have recently acquired 2 turbo's and a manifold for a SR20. I've searched enough to conclude that they're both stock(t25) turbo's, so nothing too special. One is pretty much shot and the other seems like it has normal wear, not too much play. My question is, would these have any value to be worth selling? I'm from the German car scene, so I have no clue. The manifold is stock as well, but I do have a heat shield and lube/coolant lines.

[kashira kureijii]

People will buy anything if they think they need it, economics bruh, what price can be determined merely by looking for what other t25's go for
No different from the Deutsche's fatherland

[3rd_Degree]

I know that you'll get eaten alive over on vortex for posting a listing for a turbo that needs rebuilding. So I wanted to test the waters. But I'll make an ad for it in 90 days, I might find myself a Nissan in the meantime.

[church401]

ls swap question


Ill get right to the point.


sikky kit 1600$ comes with oil pan drive shaft motor mounts and tranny mounts headers

hooker kit needs bushings and driveshaftt, its 400$ less but it seems like you have to spend 400$ to get the same parts that the other kit comes with...? what drive shaft can you use for the hooker kit?

please pm me

[kashira kureijii]

Originally Posted by church401

ls swap question


Ill get right to the point.


sikky kit 1600$ comes with oil pan drive shaft motor mounts and tranny mounts headers

hooker kit needs bushings and driveshaftt, its 400$ less but it seems like you have to spend 400$ to get the same parts that the other kit comes with...? what drive shaft can you use for the hooker kit?

please pm me

[Joey_Rusnak]

I have a 91 240 with a rusted out frame any possible fix? how much? I bought the car as a project, but I bit off more than I can chew! is it worth it or should I just look for a new 240!