Ca18det FAQ

[shane_lxi]

earlier someone posted that you should get rid of the secondary charcole cannister. This can be wired into the engine harness when modifying it to fit. If you get rid of the canister, you will have less low end torque.

[eswop]

A lot of us in Norway drive with these mods:

in addition to the list below i would add an Oil Cooler and rebuild the bottom end...

check out:

http://www.horsham-developments.co.uk/

The stage 3 chip is designed to optimise the fuelling and ignition for an S13 with the following modifications:
Free flow air filter
Free flow exhaust
17psi boost pressure
Uprated intercooler
T28 hybrid turbo
Uprated fuel pump
444cc injectors
Z32 AFM

The chip removes the fuel cut and, in conjunction with the upgrades above, will allow the engine to produce in excess of 300bhp.
The stage 3 chip will only work with 444cc injectors and a Z32 (300ZX) air flow meter (AFM).

A power graph will be posted shortly. I have had one power run with the chip and achieved 300bhp but this was in extremely high ambient temperature (>40 degrees C!!) - I will be obtaining another power graph with more sensible ambient temps.

[mikesim]

i just wanted to point out that CA injectors are Peak and Hold (low impedance), not Saturated (high impedance), as stated on page one. when you're looking for RX-7 injectors, its a big deal, because they have both peak and hold and saturated over different model years.

the chart is correct for the years and colors i think though.

[sLiDewAys]

leaving the ca world guys. its been a nice journey. ca has taken and proven to me and also to other thats its not as crazzy as everyone thinks. still available for questions if anyone has any. my ca is going into my crewmates ae86 now

300hp corolla? WHAT?? lmao

[liv2drift045]

that sucks slideways... i had to leave too... it was good having you knowledge tho, i learned al0t from the info u took the time to put on ca faq board

300hp hachi would be nasty lol

[boosteds13]

It's alright boys, mine is going in this weekend... wOOt!

Here she lies--

[scoobthadude]

as far as mounts, anything aftermarket? motor and tranny

[alexchanman]

wow that looks amazing. specs on it?

[NRS13]

I've been looking into these engines for awhile and I'm curious if, when swapping one into an 89-90 240 if you have to make any alterations to the air conditioning lines or any of that like is necessary when putting an sr20 in a zenki s13. Basically, I would like to know: when you drop in the CA, how many alterations need to be done other than the ECU stuff in order to have it working well(with AC, Power steering, etc.)? Thanks

[boosteds13]

Originally Posted by NRS13

I've been looking into these engines for awhile and I'm curious if, when swapping one into an 89-90 240 if you have to make any alterations to the air conditioning lines or any of that like is necessary when putting an sr20 in a zenki s13. Basically, I would like to know: when you drop in the CA, how many alterations need to be done other than the ECU stuff in order to have it working well(with AC, Power steering, etc.)? Thanks

The KA AC lines do not bolt up regardless of the chassis. Well, the low pressure line doesn't at least. You need the CA compressor and CA lines so you can braze them with the KA lines. Then you can have working AC. If you want working PS, then you need the DOHC lines and reservoir. Or I guess you could ghetto bend the sohc ones.

[utemhsa]

quick question... i need a CA crank pulley... now, can i get this off a us spec CA18et/20? or does it actually have to be from the ca18det? obviously, my ca won't run w/ out this... and i'm trying to find the quickest way possible to get one... any ideas?

[Canadian_S13]

I am wondering what the normal temperature is for the water and oil, the silvia I bought (CA18DET) has aftermarket gauges but I don't know what the temperature is supose to be...... please someone help me out

[boosteds13]

Originally Posted by Canadian_S13

I am wondering what the normal temperature is for the water and oil, the silvia I bought (CA18DET) has aftermarket gauges but I don't know what the temperature is supose to be...... please someone help me out

I dont know about oil... but water temp should be kept around 190*F

[Canadian_S13]

Okay, I have been having some problems latly and I would like to hear your thoughts on what it could be...

Ever since the fuel filter was changed my car has been having a problem with holding an idle, at first it wasn't bad but latly my rpm's will drop to 500 or lower rpm everytime i stop and the car has a bad vibration. If I accelerate at an easy pace my rpm's seem to slow and the car feels like its cloged or something around 3000rpm, if I open the throttle all the way(for a brief moment, then ease up) it usually goes away sometimes with a jolt and black smoke. If I accelerate at full throttle the car runs good but sometimes jolts during acceleration with puffs of black smoke then continues like normal. If I shift gears the car bogs(very harsh)then continues to accel. Or if I drive normal and rev higher then 3000rpm then shift theres a puf of black smoke. Also when car idles it sometimes puffs white smoke sometimes

I took it into nissan and he did some cleaning throttle body and it seems to have gone away for the most part. The car will idle fine if driven appropriatly but if I drive at full throttle it will drop to 500 or sometimes lower rpm, no vibration that I can feel when it does this though. If I accel. easily I can still see and feel the rpm's slow around 3000rpm, but it is alot better then it was. I can't tell if the smoke is gone cause it was night when I drove it after it was serviced.

so yea, thats what's happening.... all insites are welcome and needed thanks!

[sLiDewAys]

IACV"idle air control valve, often gets clogged and will serriously jack up engine performance., TPS "throttle positioning sensor" often misadjusted, tweaked and 100% of the time your engines worst nightmare.

CAS" cam angle sensor" you adjust for timing, a few degrees retard can horribly weaken throttle response and spool up. advancing a few degrees can gain response and spool. spark plugs are also a big WIN in the game of " what the fuck happened" haha so check those adn your coil packs as well.


hope i have contributed some help. all of what you have described ive had happen from multiple areas, but same outcome.

[LA_phantom_240]

Wow.. very informative thread. BUT, (flame suit on) nobody hsa ever told me wether or not the CA18 has a BOV from the factory, or if it has a recirc. valve? Also, money is very tight for me right now, and the only reason im thinking of a CA swap so soon (without being "one with the motor") is because my KA took a dump on my chest, so i was wondering, since most motorsets i see dont come with the factory intercooler and piping, what is the best way to run intercooler piping for an fmic without relocating the battery? I really dont want to relocate my battery, because my trunk is already full.

[boosteds13]

Originally Posted by LA_phantom_240

Wow.. very informative thread. BUT, (flame suit on) nobody hsa ever told me wether or not the CA18 has a BOV from the factory, or if it has a recirc. valve? Also, money is very tight for me right now, and the only reason im thinking of a CA swap so soon (without being "one with the motor") is because my KA took a dump on my chest, so i was wondering, since most motorsets i see dont come with the factory intercooler and piping, what is the best way to run intercooler piping for an fmic without relocating the battery? I really dont want to relocate my battery, because my trunk is already full.

If you're on a budget, don't get a CA. No, the CA does not have a BOV from the factory, and without ghetto rigging the IC piping, there is no way to keep the stock battery. The CA indoubtedly is going to need some heavy maintenance before you put it in. Items such as the water pump, timing belt, t-belt tensioner, t-belt idler. You SHOULD get a new oil pump while the motor is out of the car. Its not something you want to fail on you. Figure at minimum $1,000 on top of the cost of the motorset to get it in and running (downpipe, fuel pump, IC, maintenence stuff, boost gauge, and tons of misc hoses, clamps and fittings).

[JesusFreakDrifter]

you say that you used the ka tranny, did it line up correctly and, did you use the s13 driveshaft(duh)?

[dvdevo]

Originally Posted by JesusFreakDrifter

you say that you used the ka tranny, did it line up correctly and, did you use the s13 driveshaft(duh)?

You do you use the s13 driveshaft.

[da_sil80sx_plague]

what up yall nu to this forum stuff and was looking thru these topics about tha CA but i didnt c any proper "how-to's" on the CA engine swap does anybody know how step by step or should i just take it to tha shop

[ViZion Zs]

Anyone try using a ca18et head gasket??? i cant see why it wouldnt work...

[da_grey_s13]

does anyone know if a pulsar ca18de head will work on a ca18det?

[Arther3]

Originally Posted by da_grey_s13

does anyone know if a pulsar ca18de head will work on a ca18det?

from my experience with japanese engines, i would suggest that it is the same. my supra had the same head for both turbo and non turbo and i dont see why they would spend the extra money on a different casting for the head instead of just casting one for everything.

also, the injectors are peak and hold and the mk3 supra 440cc injectors can be used.

the alternator from the ka24e can be used with no modification.

and most importantly, the second vacuum canister(not charcoal canister) is VERY necessary. i experienced SERIOUS torque losses up to 4000 rpm as well as noticing that my car RAN LEAN on the low end until i installed the vacuum canister and vacuum switch per the instructions on NICO. this system controls the butterfly valves in the intake, and unless you drastically change your tune(not just chip the ecu), the CA ecu is not going to like not having control of these butterflys.

[panama DRIFT]

umm i was just wondering about the starter, can i use that from the ca18de or another american market nissan

[dorkjoey240]

When money comes to me I'm thinking I want CA18det. But is it true that ca motor blow out belts when driving fast? 2 question is this I want to have a goal to make with ca 280 hp and I was curious which gas do you use for ca motor when boosting? safe boost point on 280whp and whats danger area zone to psi boost? 3 What's the most important gaugues you should have in the ca motors? ex: boost meter , vacuum meter , temp meter , pressure meter etc..

I

[sLiDewAys]

Originally Posted by panama DRIFT

umm i was just wondering about the starter, can i use that from the ca18de or another american market nissan

you can use the ka24de starter. the bottom bracket fits perfect but the top bracket tensioner needs a little modification. just buy one, bolt it on the bottom and build a custom tensioner bracket. easy half hour job. i will post a pic of what i am explaining in a few days.

[sLiDewAys]

man @ home again. SIGH

I've never in my lifetime heard of ca's breaking belts when boosting or driving fast, it was probly some idiot who decided to do amateur job at rebuilding and forgot to tighen the belt tensioner... If you are doing your own work get a belt tension gauge, it looks like a rod with a gauge on it. one side has a hook which fits arround the belt, just pull and measure, easy task for even beginners.

Ca's have no issue pushing 280hp. nor do they have any issue going over 350-400 HP. but dont expect to slap on a huge turbo, boost the shit out of it and achieve that, sr,ka and even RB owners can explain this to you as well so it does not just apply to the ca engines. i wish i would have had my ca still. The parts market has grown soo much in the past 2 years. I use to have to search my ass off just to find an aftermarket manifold. now everyone is making parts and starting to provide for the ca engines. Pick a turbo that will give you what you want and take some time to tune the engine. crower, eagle, cp, arai ect all make components for the ca18. Dont be affraid to also upgrade your OE or atleast replace the OE parts. oil pump, fuel pump, water pump.

i'd say a safe zone for the ca18 interms of stock engine w/ supporting mods would be some where arround 250"ISH" wheel \. this is where the stock ca18 injectors are far past their duty cycle and need to be replaces. from there upgrading the maf andinjectos, possible intake plenum and cams with tuning can get you well over 300 wheel. I prety much just followd the sr20det guidlines for power. i did 240 wheel on my ca18 with just fmic, manifold, z maf, hks gt2510 on 15 psi.

as far as gauges, it depends on what you plan on monitoring. id go with the following.

egt(for upgraded turbos only)
boost
water temp
oil pressure.
you can do oil temp if you'd like but most of you now are geting the AUS engines. so they come with oil coolers. no need to monitor oil tempreture. for those whoare still receiving jdm clips a oil cool wont hurt. it will do you some good.

watch oil starvation when in higher rpm's that can be a ca's LIFE ENDER.

for high boost applications sometimes it comes down to engine condition.

contact www.yellowmunsontuning.com about boosting.

safe zone for me would be arround 18 psi.

hope i was of some help.

[stealthj]

[fastcarvroom]

does anyone know a well respected shop that works on ca's in so cal?

[stealthj]

dunno, jspec?