Sr20det FAQ

[RUKUSmag]

Not sure if I'm in the right place, but I just picked up a 91 s13 with a ka24de and I'm looking to do an sr20det swap. I'm in Los Angeles, CA and I'm looking for a reputable shop if anyone knows someone capable and with access to a clip it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[XxSHiFTxX]

Has anyone ever looked into or bought a Brian Crower Stroker Kit 2.35L for a SR20DET? If you have; is it a good quality kit?

[b4l]

Originally Posted by RUKUSmag

Not sure if I'm in the right place, but I just picked up a 91 s13 with a ka24de and I'm looking to do an sr20det swap. I'm in Los Angeles, CA and I'm looking for a reputable shop if anyone knows someone capable and with access to a clip it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

i just started up a front clip i got from phase2 from there. perfect 10. very clean and once i got the wiring issue done it started and was purring so nice. i would go with them any day all day.

[d-toxx]

So i have a friend with the sr20 out of a sentra was wondering if it could bolt to rwd trans or not cus id rather buy it local then have it shipped and not know if it runs will it alson boly in to a s13/14 chassie



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[One_love_silvia]

does anyone know what thread size and pitch the stock sr20 oil pan has for the turbo oil lines? im planning on getting the m7960 ARMS tomei turbo kit, and it's sized for stock sr20. I have my ka24de that i'm rebuilding, and i want to get a fitting welded on the oil pan while its off the car to save money and time. need to know asap please.

[91srblacktop]

i have an sr20 blacktop with a trust down pipe and full 3" exhaust bosting 7lbs does anyone have a ruff estimet on hp range????

[NHTKID]

ya 180-190 ^

[NHTKID]

10 lbs is stock, not 7lbs. and 205 stock rating is not at the wheels..

[Mikester]

Originally Posted by One_love_silvia

does anyone know what thread size and pitch the stock sr20 oil pan has for the turbo oil lines? im planning on getting the m7960 ARMS tomei turbo kit, and it's sized for stock sr20. I have my ka24de that i'm rebuilding, and i want to get a fitting welded on the oil pan while its off the car to save money and time. need to know asap please.

The oil return that goes to the pan is a tube with a hose connection, not a line. The turbine oil system is basically a gravity-feed where the oil comes in the top and drains out the bottom. Get a piece of tube that is the same diameter as the oil drain on the turbine and weld that in. Pic of my M8270 mounted:



Note the drain to the pan is a tube with a hose connected to it (black tube on bottom of turbo). Weld an identically sized tube plumbed to the oil pan for a return, and you will be golden.


You will love the M7960 btw =)

[cotbu]

The turbine oil system is basically a gravity-feed where the oil comes in the top and drains out the bottom.

This is only half true. It's pressure fed, and gravity drain.

[Mikester]

^^touche^^

[cgtdream]

One of the better SR20 install guides out there...Protip, applies specifically to the s14 blacktop and way better than that outdated HeavyThrottle guide.

Tune2Win | Do-It-Yourself Tech Articles | Nissan 240SX SR20DET Engine Swap Guide Part 1

[40craz]

Ok guys might be a bit of a noob question but how much did you guys put into your sr builds to get to about a good 350 hp or an amount of power that was at least fun to play with. My reason for asking like this is i have bigger plans for my 240 but would like to have some power to play with while i await my 2jz build just wanted to see if the sr was worth it thanks.

[Danger_Dorn]

Hey guys, Just swapped in a stock redtop into an s14 (95). I used a new wiring specialties upper and lower harness, checked it 3 times before install. I have a battery relocation to the trunk and the battery negative is grounded to the spare tire stud in the center. Ok now the problem

1st Question: When I plugged what I'm pretty damn sure was everything up, I didnt get ANY power anywhere. I blew the battery fuse "FL". I then checked my wiring once more after calling wiring specialties and they said jump the fuse for a moment with the lights on and watch for signs of life...all I got was smoke from the connection. I know its a ground but what is the most common? Should I add a ground from the intak manifold to the chassis? Its grounded through the harness already but maybe its not enough. Whats going on?

2nd Question: I have a gas tank FULL of 87 octane fuel. I already swapped my fuel pump for a walbro 255. Will I be ok for this tank or should I add some octane booster? Or go through the pain or replacing all the fuel? FML Thanks guys.

SOLUTION: I figured out my problem, I had forgotten to place a spacer in between the alternator shell and positive cable...wow

And as far as the fuel issue, I just dumped in octane booster, worked great.

[Sthirteen90]

Are timing chain set ups interchangeable between s13 sr's and s14's?

[AlexN]

helpful, thanks

[Danger_Dorn]

Ok here new guys I made a video of how to do perfect timing on my SR. Please pay close attention to everything

SR20DET Won't Start. (Timing and Spark shown) - YouTube

PS: My car not starting is irrelevant as its a different issue.

[safari]

is the 95 sr20det with vtc a 4 cylinder?

[ultimateirving]

Originally Posted by safari

is the 95 sr20det with vtc a 4 cylinder?

Thats debateable, it has 16 valves.

[oni jake]

I have a S15 SR in a S14 chassis and redid my entire harness from scratch. This could be useful for anyone wanting to do the same.

[tengo240]

Recently did some work to my sr and upon starting it it idled like complete shit , it was rocking back and forth and pouring black smoke out of the exhaust. i recently did the following to the motor/car what should i do if tomorrow when i put it back together its still off? i did the following

1.moved my fuse boxes/chassis harness to behind my dash board ,did not cut or remove anything just relocated it .
2. installed a chasebays wiring harness
3.removed my heater core and looped my coolant line in the back with all new hoses
4. removed my bov and hot pipe for a solid no bov hot pipe ,ran a vacuum line from the wastegate to the hot pipe,vac line from fpr t'd to boost gauge to the mani , capped the other throttle body fittings,
5.i removed my intake manifold but put on a new collector gasket and a circuit sports thermal gasket spacer. what did i miss or did i run vacuum lines wrong? i checked for boost leaks by spraying carb cleaner and didnt get anything,the motor flodded while running for the few moments i had it running , i replaced my plugs and changed the oil.
the engine ran awesome a few months ago before i changed the previous things , im leaning towards the wiring, any ideas ? i would greatly appreciate some insight and help
it acts like maybe the maf is being grounded out? i heard a few people got bad harnesses this year from chasebays . idk

[Sthirteen90]

I'd say make sure you didn't plug any of the breather lines. Like the one off the intake. And if there's a problem in the harness, that's not super easy to check without taking apart the harness.

[powermymotor]

wanted to change pistons .. if i didnt bore it out what size can i upgrade to? or do i keep it standard at 86mm

[89hatchman]

Double checking. I can run 10-12 psi boost on stock injectors and tune correct?

I've heard people say that stock boost is 7 and others say its 12....Mine is currently running at 7

[Mikester]

Originally Posted by 89hatchman

Double checking. I can run 10-12 psi boost on stock injectors and tune correct?

I've heard people say that stock boost is 7 and others say its 12....Mine is currently running at 7

Posted my answer to this in your other thread...

Stock boost seems to vary a bit on SR's (S13 red/black top), I think mostly due to variances in the age or type of the WG actuators.

You CAN run as much boost as you want- whether or not you SHOULD is the real question. At 10psi, you'll still be okay. At 12, you'd be amazed at how lean it will be. If your plan is to run 12psi on the factory setup, I recommend rethinking that & getting injectors and Enthalpy or JWT tune at minimum.

Don't get me wrong, I ran my SR at 14-16psi back in the day before I got smart & gave it the tright amount of fuel. Looking back, I feel very lucky I didn't blow the motor. People will tell you that running 12psi is 'safe' and that I am full of shit- but the numbers don't lie... If you're really concerned about it, put it on the dyno with a wideband attached and see.

[89hatchman]

Originally Posted by b4l

i just started up a front clip i got from phase2 from there. perfect 10. very clean and once i got the wiring issue done it started and was purring so nice. i would go with them any day all day.

How much did you pay? I like phase2 and all and I'm satisfied with my motor I suppose but it was pricey.

My SR has a timing chain rattle or something and runs a little lean at lower RPMs but so far its held up for 8 months or so of getting whooped.

[shorty69187420]

so i have posted in a few different places but haven't gotten a response yet, hopefully this thread can help??

So i received my s14 sr20det about a week ago and was looking at everything and noticed that the ecu doesn't say WC on it... It says WB.

I looked up online and seen that:
WB = 94-96 silvia non turbo auto (SR20DE)
WC = 94-96 silvia turbo M/T (SR20DET)

Is this going to affect me in anyway?? I called the company that i bought it from and they said that the other*sr20det's that they have also have the WB ECU and not the WC.

Please advise

[jaspreetkaur]

hire a taxi in chandigarh

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Thanks

[XEvrybodygets1]

Ok guy i know a few of you on here have had problems with the sr i have a sr20det i have no idea what the block numbe ris but right now the list of problems that i know are
- it wont start unless push started
- it dies when taken out of gear when running
-when the gas is to the floor tranny in gear doesnt matter which and clutch to the floor thats the only time it stays running.
- none of the gauges work

i bought the car a month ago with a promise to have it running it is not running now i will post later the block number. i hope you guys can figure it out.

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by 93kouking

10 lbs is stock, not 7lbs. and 205 stock rating is not at the wheels..

Without the factory boost control solenoid, 7psi is stock. Therefore, since most people do not run the factory boost control solenoid, he is correct.

Originally Posted by 89hatchman

Double checking. I can run 10-12 psi boost on stock injectors and tune correct?

I've heard people say that stock boost is 7 and others say its 12....Mine is currently running at 7

Read above. The other part of your answer varies. What engine setup? S13 SR w/T25 can get away with slightly more boost than say an S14 SR w/T28. Regardless, I wouldn't push the S13 past 11-12psi without injectors and a tune. S14 no more than 10psi.

Originally Posted by Mikester

Posted my answer to this in your other thread...

Stock boost seems to vary a bit on SR's (S13 red/black top), I think mostly due to variances in the age or type of the WG actuators.

You CAN run as much boost as you want- whether or not you SHOULD is the real question. At 10psi, you'll still be okay. At 12, you'd be amazed at how lean it will be. If your plan is to run 12psi on the factory setup, I recommend rethinking that & getting injectors and Enthalpy or JWT tune at minimum.

Don't get me wrong, I ran my SR at 14-16psi back in the day before I got smart & gave it the tright amount of fuel. Looking back, I feel very lucky I didn't blow the motor. People will tell you that running 12psi is 'safe' and that I am full of shit- but the numbers don't lie... If you're really concerned about it, put it on the dyno with a wideband attached and see.

Mike, with the factory boost solenoid most SR's run 10psi, with boost tapering off in the higher rpms. Without the factory boost solenoid, wastegate pressure is set at 7psi. Since most people delete or do not receive the factory boost solenoid, they run 7.