KA24DE EGI Relay Wiring Gremlin - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

Thursday7 · 05-08-2018, 10:34 AM

Recently got my ka-t started. It's a basic T28/370cc/N62/Enthalpy tune setup.

At first I couldn't get it started as it was not getting fuel. I determined this by pulling the rail. Fuel pump is new and worked so I started fiddling around and found the EGI relay to not be working. They relay itself is good, the switch closes when 12v is applied to the coil and has continuity when activated. THIS TEST WAS DONE OUTSIDE OF THE CAR, NOT IN ITS SLOT. I also tried with multiple working relays I had.

Just to get the car started, I jumped the switched sides of the plug with the relay removed. This worked, as the switched side was getting 12v. Car runs ok, but this is just a workaround.

Here's where things get confusing: Both the coil and switch side of the relay are getting 12v, even when the ignition is off. Yet still the relay is not activating.

I'll elaborate with this picture.

I am getting 12v at ports 1 and 3 at all times. This does not sound normal as the relay would always be activated. Is this right? should port 2 be going to ground? It does not when checking continuity with a multimeter. The relay does not click when installed. I thought it may be an ECU issue but I tested it with my stock ECU that the car has been reliably running on for years and it gives me the same result.

Can someone please help? There is a drift event that I've invested time and money into coming up in less than 2 weeks and I'd hate to miss it.
Thanks in advance.

anthony_240 · 05-08-2018, 12:01 PM

Yes 2 should be ground if the relay is to complete the circuit between 3 and 5. Now I can see why 3 would have 12v at all times, but one of 2 things are wrong. Either 2 is supposed to be switched to ground when ignition is on, or it should always be ground (most common that ive seen) and 1 should be switched ignition (12v with key on)

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Thursday7 · 05-08-2018, 12:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by anthony_240

Yes 2 should be ground if the relay is to complete the circuit between 3 and 5. Now I can see why 3 would have 12v at all times, but one of 2 things are wrong. Either 2 is supposed to be switched to ground when ignition is on, or it should always be ground (most common that ive seen) and 1 should be switched ignition (12v with key on)

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That makes sense, I'm thinking it is the latter, in which there are 2 issues at hand.

anthony_240 · 05-08-2018, 02:04 PM

Yea man. Well good luck finding the problem, check your driver side wheel well lol those wires always rub ...

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Thursday7 · 05-08-2018, 07:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by anthony_240

Yea man. Well good luck finding the problem, check your driver side wheel well lol those wires always rub ...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That has been tucked for a while and I'm a small wheel guy. The car hasn't been driven before the turbo swap, and ran perfectly beforehand.

05-08-2018, 10:34 AM	#1
Thursday7 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: PA Posts: 800 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	KA24DE EGI Relay Wiring Gremlin Recently got my ka-t started. It's a basic T28/370cc/N62/Enthalpy tune setup. At first I couldn't get it started as it was not getting fuel. I determined this by pulling the rail. Fuel pump is new and worked so I started fiddling around and found the EGI relay to not be working. They relay itself is good, the switch closes when 12v is applied to the coil and has continuity when activated. THIS TEST WAS DONE OUTSIDE OF THE CAR, NOT IN ITS SLOT. I also tried with multiple working relays I had. Just to get the car started, I jumped the switched sides of the plug with the relay removed. This worked, as the switched side was getting 12v. Car runs ok, but this is just a workaround. Here's where things get confusing: Both the coil and switch side of the relay are getting 12v, even when the ignition is off. Yet still the relay is not activating. I'll elaborate with this picture. I am getting 12v at ports 1 and 3 at all times. This does not sound normal as the relay would always be activated. Is this right? should port 2 be going to ground? It does not when checking continuity with a multimeter. The relay does not click when installed. I thought it may be an ECU issue but I tested it with my stock ECU that the car has been reliably running on for years and it gives me the same result. Can someone please help? There is a drift event that I've invested time and money into coming up in less than 2 weeks and I'd hate to miss it. Thanks in advance. Last edited by Thursday7; 05-08-2018 at 12:12 PM..

05-08-2018, 12:01 PM	#2
anthony_240 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Los Angeles Age: 33 Posts: 489 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Yes 2 should be ground if the relay is to complete the circuit between 3 and 5. Now I can see why 3 would have 12v at all times, but one of 2 things are wrong. Either 2 is supposed to be switched to ground when ignition is on, or it should always be ground (most common that ive seen) and 1 should be switched ignition (12v with key on) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

05-08-2018, 02:04 PM	#4
anthony_240 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Los Angeles Age: 33 Posts: 489 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Yea man. Well good luck finding the problem, check your driver side wheel well lol those wires always rub ... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk