SR Owners... More HP Easy Mod... Catch Can Setup

[S14DB]

Why did you put the line before the MAF? Now you are introducing un-metered air into the system.

[slider2828]

Originally Posted by S14DB

Why did you put the line before the MAF? Now you are introducing un-metered air into the system.

Is it not he opposite? He put it in before the MAFS so the extra air IS metered as it enters the motor.

-Ken

[blu808]

Originally Posted by S14DB

Why did you put the line before the MAF? Now you are introducing un-metered air into the system.

I put it before the maf so the maf could meter the air that is going into the system.

We tried it a few ways. some with it after the maf, and even though it was a minimal amount of air, it made the car run like shit.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by slider2828

Basically oil will get pulled from the crank case or flung from the crank case on heavy altitude change tracks. I run Laguna and another local track called Thunder where I am going over a really tall hill at top of 3rd.... This vertical G can really slosh the oil in your crank case up to the whole where vac is normally evacuated. With any negative pressure this will suck the oil past the T into a catch can and fill it up in about 2-3 laps.

If you look at the design, it goes from crank case to the valve cover. This design right here is inherent to the valve cover in 2 ways:

The input is 1: Lower than where the oil is being sucks out. 2: Where we placed the top fitting that goes to a catch can has a "built in" oil separator from factor. You just have to look at the valve cover design itself. We drilled holes into this separator to allow more suction from our turbo's to create neg pressure in the head and ultimately in the crank case as everything needs to be sealed.

3: The head has built in drainage for oil. This is normal as the head has gallies to drain oil back into the oil pan from the squirters to lube the cams, so hence its closing the system. No oil should ever get into the can because it flows through these gallies back to the pan....

Hope this answers all questions....

I run Watkins Glen, and Limerock...both with HUGGGGE changes as well. Pocono doesnt' have the huge changes, nor does NJMP, however they have some severe banking...I understand the aspect of oil coming up, but I can't see how it works superior to how I have my setup (not trying to be a dickhead, just trying to learn more, as I'll change in a heartbeat if I can see a reasonable advantage).

Again, that rear port on the block goes to an OEM seperator, which goes the valvecover T, which goes to the catch can, which goes to my intake pipe. On your setup, I see the rear port, dumping into the valve cover, and then a baffled hole on the back half (under that little tray inside the valve cover) going to the catch can...so where yours dumps into the V/C, and then drains back through those holes near the lifters (and the front/rear of the engine), I just stop any oil sucking up at the rear of the motor, with the OE baffled seperator.

I guess what I'm getting at, is welding the fittings any better than using the OE baffled seperator...as our setups are similar aside from that.

Originally Posted by 4x4le

And tagging rumble strips at the apex's can slosh the oil around as well.

I run a IJ Crank scraper (teflon) and baffle as well for issues like this in the actual crank case as well.... Certainly it shakes the car, but your suspension absorbs most of the impact.

In regard to RPM and boost, I totally relate. I've got a 4.6 Final Drive, and a 2871r...I'm always in boost.


FWIW We've run FWD cars for years with catch can setups like mine, without issue. I think the biggest advantage is the OE seperator (which FWD has as well)

Originally Posted by 4x4le

I also cant believe all of these supposed s13 sr owners act oblovious to the well known sr crank case ventelation issues these motors are plagued with. If they havent experienced the ventelation issues first hand they either dont have much of a build, or they are posers that dont give their car a good work out.

PS: 11 or 12 track days, over 15,000 miles of hell on street, 400 hp...no issues. Now on my original motor I did get a little, but that's because the poor motor was tired.

Originally Posted by 4x4le

Oh, and I too have a freshly fully built sr that I track/drift with the gt2871R .86 and I too get blow by. My engine was built by a very well known engine builder as well.

I've built over 10 SR's at this point (turbo, n/a, FWD and RWD) and never have issues with cars. As before, I do build my cars fairly tight, but they have no oil consumption issues, have no blow buy, and all still run. Not saying your guy isn't capable, but it seems like something else may be an issue.

[4x4le]

Originally Posted by codyace

I understand the aspect of oil coming up, but I can't see how it works superior to how I have my setup (not trying to be a dickhead, just trying to learn more, as I'll change in a heartbeat if I can see a reasonable advantage).
..........................
I guess what I'm getting at, is welding the fittings any better than using the OE baffled seperator

If your not having issues, then there is honestly no reason to change what your doing. If however your in boost long enough to be pulling enough vac long enough to suck enough oil into your separator to fill it you will have a problem. Also if you dont close your throttle long enough to allow the separator to drain back you will have a problem then too.

Originally Posted by codyace

I've got a 4.6 Final Drive, and a 2871r...I'm always in boost.

That sounds dandy! What does the 4.6 gear set come out of???

Originally Posted by codyace

PS: 11 or 12 track days, over 15,000 miles of hell on street, 400 hp...no issues. Now on my original motor I did get a little, but that's because the poor motor was tired.

I wasnt calling you or anyone out on the comment, but it is a general statement I hear allot, mostly by people that just street drive their cars. I also know several sr owners that fill up their cans.

Originally Posted by codyace

I've built over 10 SR's at this point (turbo, n/a, FWD and RWD) and never have issues with cars. As before, I do build my cars fairly tight, but they have no oil consumption issues, have no blow buy, and all still run. Not saying your guy isn't capable, but it seems like something else may be an issue.

I know for a fact that there is no way this engine has anything wrong with it. I am in business with the builder, he has never built a bad engine, and honestly everything he touches turns to gold. This engine has been used and abused and compression and leakdown has always stayed golden for the few years it has been alive.

Just keep in mind, the old style s13 valve covers with separators on the rear line was discontinued in favor of the s14/15 valve cover design for a reason. People started hacking the 13 and 14 covers up and welding them together for a reason. And this is just a cheaper easier way to end up with the same thing. It is smarter, more efficient and more fool proof/fail safe than the factory design.
No one is trying to bully anyone into getting this mod done, and if you dont have the issue with filling up a can (with your setup routed back to intake) then there is no real reason to do this.

An easy way to not fill up a can is to pollute with a breather filter instead of routing back to intake, however then you are missing out on power, your car is running off un metered air any time your in vacuum, and your not getting rid of as much crank crase pressure as you can be. If your still spitting oil with a breather filter then you do have a engine problem because there shouldnt be enough crank case pressure to cause oil spatter out of the system and there is no vacuum source to pull it out.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by 4x4le

If your not having issues, then there is honestly no reason to change what your doing. If however your in boost long enough to be pulling enough vac long enough to suck enough oil into your separator to fill it you will have a problem. Also if you dont close your throttle long enough to allow the separator to drain back you will have a problem then too.

Maybe we've lucked out then hehe. At the Glen I can see 145-150 mph, and at Pocono near the same, so I'm certainly in the hammer for a while. I couldn't imagine cranking the boost all the way haha, i'm tooooo chickenshit haha.

Originally Posted by 4x4le

That sounds dandy! What does the 4.6 gear set come out of???

Sit down for this one...you'll never imagine it...but out of an Xterra Front Pumpkin hehe. The SE models came with 4.6 Final Drives, as well as 4.9!!! Simple bolt (well press too) in affair.

It's sorta like S2000 using CRV gearsets haha.

Originally Posted by 4x4le

No one is trying to bully anyone into getting this mod done, and if you dont have the issue with filling up a can (with your setup routed back to intake) then there is no real reason to do this.

Oh I know...I'm just always looking for ways to upgrade parts on my car If there is a better way, and I can easily change it, I'm all about it...but at the same time I don't like changing parts to change them

Originally Posted by 4x4le

An easy way to not fill up a can is to pollute with a breather filter instead of routing back to intake, however then you are missing out on power, your car is running off un metered air any time your in vacuum, and your not getting rid of as much crank crase pressure as you can be. If your still spitting oil with a breather filter then you do have a engine problem because there shouldnt be enough crank case pressure to cause oil spatter out of the system and there is no vacuum source to pull it out.

I hear ya there brother! I never run open elements.

[NMs14.5kouki]

Originally Posted by codyace

Sit down for this one...you'll never imagine it...but out of an Xterra Front Pumpkin hehe. The SE models came with 4.6 Final Drives, as well as 4.9!!! Simple bolt (well press too) in affair.

It's sorta like S2000 using CRV gearsets haha.

so can someone explain to me what the 4.6 final drive actually does? i dont understand gear ratios at all at this point. lol it would be for a drifting aspect, and some road racing.