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Old 01-11-2007, 08:54 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ESone3
anyone know if this works for an SR?
Yes, same hose on the cold pipe.
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Old 01-11-2007, 02:31 PM   #32
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timing was righ and the flames are gone thanks, but i just need to do the intake cleaning thing, how long until i see a dif are will ir be like a mirical and just be gona once i put it in there
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Old 01-11-2007, 03:15 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrifteRs13
timing was righ and the flames are gone thanks, but i just need to do the intake cleaning thing, how long until i see a dif are will ir be like a mirical and just be gona once i put it in there
If you use about 1/2 can as suggested it should clear up on your next drive out. Just make sure your putting the cleaner in as it's running with the throttle open a little.

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Old 01-11-2007, 07:45 PM   #34
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you can always just loosen the idle adjuster too. sure cleaning it is good but if you want to get to the parts store to get intake cleaner without youre car dieing at stop lights just loosen the screw.
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Old 01-11-2007, 07:58 PM   #35
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will this work with a ka-t?
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Old 01-12-2007, 01:21 PM   #36
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no, dont use for superchared or turbocharged engines, i just did it asnd used half a can and didnt do anything. would the timing have anythign to do wiht it, i never got it timed i just put my new exhause on there thinking it might be no back pressure?
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Old 01-12-2007, 01:48 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrifteRs13
no, dont use for superchared or turbocharged engines, i just did it asnd used half a can and didnt do anything. would the timing have anythign to do wiht it, i never got it timed i just put my new exhause on there thinking it might be no back pressure?
Wait wait, I thought you just said:

Quote:
Originally Posted by DrifteRs13
timing was righ and the flames are gone thanks,
I'm not sure if you mean "right" or "high" So did you or did you not check and adjust timing as needed?

You could try using the WHOLE can, maybe yours is just really dirty. Did you put the cleaner in the right hose? The second one from the left, the bigger of the two.

And Drifter.....could you please take the extra 30 seconds and make your posts more gramatically correct? I'm having a hard time understanding you. Thanks.
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Old 01-25-2007, 01:18 PM   #38
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I would like to post that I tried this, and it hasn't realy fixed my stumbling idle. I honestly am at a loss here.

I have new spark plugs, cleaned intake & manifold (didn't take it apart, just with the intake cleaner), adjusted timing so its perfect. I followed directions here and cleaned that tube through, but I dont know. Anyone have any ideas?

It's a 96 btw, and it doesn't die at idle, it just stumbles around causing the car to shake lightly, its just annoying really. It accelerates beautifully, its just when its sitting still.
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Old 01-25-2007, 01:49 PM   #39
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I found another problem about a week ago, there's a vaccumm line that plugs into the underside of the throttle body. It's only about 5 inches long but it goes to the idle control system. Replace that hose with a new piece from autozone. I found mine to be plugged up at the elbow portion. I replaced it and voila!! no more stumbling idle. Worth a try.

Also when you pull it out, just blow into it. How much air is going through? Mine was completely clogged. I'm currently in the process of changing out ALL the old vaccumm line from my engine bay, there's alot...
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Old 01-25-2007, 02:21 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dream240
I found another problem about a week ago, there's a vaccumm line that plugs into the underside of the throttle body. It's only about 5 inches long but it goes to the idle control system. Replace that hose with a new piece from autozone. I found mine to be plugged up at the elbow portion. I replaced it and voila!! no more stumbling idle. Worth a try.

Also when you pull it out, just blow into it. How much air is going through? Mine was completely clogged. I'm currently in the process of changing out ALL the old vaccumm line from my engine bay, there's alot...
Does this require taking apart the intake manifold?
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Old 01-25-2007, 02:31 PM   #41
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no...

Just go to the throttle body and feel the underside of it near the butterfly. You can feel and see the hose. Just work that little shit off and go get some new hose. Best to do it while the engine is cold.
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Old 01-25-2007, 02:42 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dream240
no...

Just go to the throttle body and feel the underside of it near the butterfly. You can feel and see the hose. Just work that little shit off and go get some new hose. Best to do it while the engine is cold.
Great I'll check that next.

I really should just take apart the manifold so I can access all the EGR stuff behind it to make sure that's all ok, as well as other vacuum lines. But I'm to busy lately
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Old 01-25-2007, 02:43 PM   #43
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This would work on a SOHC also. Just make sure your A/C is off and the car is warmed up first. I imagine that would apply to the DOHC as well. You have 3 idle control valves connected to that hose you're spraying cleaner in. They are:

Air Regulator: Just for cold start idle. When the Fuel Pump comes on so does this valve. When it heats itself up the whole way it closes the valve.

FICD: When your A/C compressor kicks on this valve opens.

AAC: This is the valve you're most likely trying to clean. This is the PWM valve your ECU controls to maintain idle RPM. There's a spring in this part of the assembly that you need to keep fairly clean.

Hope this helped someone!
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Old 01-25-2007, 02:47 PM   #44
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ohhhhh......good one...thanks man!
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Old 01-25-2007, 02:51 PM   #45
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Oh, and the hoses that connect to the Throttle body on the SOHC are coolant hoses. I can't speak for the DOHC, but I would think they are the same thing. I've been told it's so the throttle body doesn't freeze up during cold weather.
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Old 01-25-2007, 02:54 PM   #46
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I find it to clean the AICV better if I just take mine off, and clean it with carb cleaner, re-gasket and re-install. THat way I can really get in there and spray carb cleaner up close and get rid of everything. sometimes I let it soak in there for 10 -15 minutes.
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Old 01-25-2007, 03:49 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackhat
Oh, and the hoses that connect to the Throttle body on the SOHC are coolant hoses. I can't speak for the DOHC, but I would think they are the same thing. I've been told it's so the throttle body doesn't freeze up during cold weather.
You're thinking of a separate hose, the one that loops into the throttle housing and back out and goes into the upper manifold. The vaccumm line is the 3/8" (i think) line that goes into the throttle body directly under the butterfly. Stand over your passenger fender and you'll see the hose sticking out there. It's easier to access by removing the intake piping section that goes into the throttle body.

Wish i had a pic......
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Old 01-26-2007, 07:40 PM   #48
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Baaaahhhh.

Well after a day or two of fooling around and tweaking everything, it turned out to be my cylinder 4 spark plug.

My friend I put this car together, and he was responsbile for the spark plugs at the time. I was cleaning the throttle body while he installed the plugs. Apparently the 4th one got bent (so the gap was screwed up) and he didnt notice and installed it anyways, hahaha. Thus causing my shaking and stumbling at idle.

Note: he also installed the wrong brand, but that's another story.

So, I have NGK V-Power coppers in there now and it's haulin ass and idling perfect!
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Old 02-07-2007, 01:55 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outerheaven2k4
I had the same problem on the KA24E, but i was silly and took off the whole thing without buying a gasket to replace it LOL. I found out however, this method would work and wished I did it.

On the SOHC-
Locate the idle adjust screw
Unscrew completely, be sure to apply some pressure on the screw while unscrewing, there's a spring, dont lose it.
Spray your favorite cleaner in there
Replace screw and adjust your idle back to normal

WOOT
^_^
I remember reading in ALdata that you shouldnt mess with the idle screw until you unplug the Tps. If you do you can confuse the ecu which will throw your idle off. Something like that.
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Old 02-07-2007, 06:10 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zugoi
I remember reading in ALdata that you shouldnt mess with the idle screw until you unplug the Tps. If you do you can confuse the ecu which will throw your idle off. Something like that.
Correct-a-mundo...

But first be sure you have your timing set at 20 degrees BTDC (KADE), THEN proceed to set idle. If your timing is off, it will affect your idle.
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Old 07-05-2007, 01:12 PM   #51
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I have a problem with my IACV but its the opposite of everyone. The car idles ok (rough b/c of cams) but my problem is that the car stays at wide open throttle when I put the clutch in to shift gears. If I rev to 5K rpm or more air is still rushing in the engine through the IACV because it is still open and the car bounces of the rev limiter. I just got the car back from the mechanic and he says it must be the IACV because its HUGE in the SR compared to other engines and thats the only place besides the throttle where air can get in. No vacuum leaks.

So is it possible that the IACV is so dirty that it is actually sticking open instead of shut? I searched and it no one else seems to have this problem.
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Old 07-05-2007, 05:27 PM   #52
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wait, cant all this hassel of pulling tubes and holding up the throttle be taken away by taking off the filter on the intake, have a friend hold the revs at like 2k and just spray the into the now wide open intake?
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Old 07-06-2007, 07:34 AM   #53
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yeah sure if you like wasting 3 cans of cleaner to do the job that should take only one.

You're getting a more concentrated dose of cleaner if you pull the IACV intake tube and spray in there. It's not that hard really, should take LESS time than pulling the intake filter off, plus you're not getting cleaner on your MAF and possibly damaging it. Those things are touchy.
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Old 10-14-2007, 01:09 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackhat View Post
This would work on a SOHC also. Just make sure your A/C is off and the car is warmed up first. I imagine that would apply to the DOHC as well. You have 3 idle control valves connected to that hose you're spraying cleaner in. They are:

Air Regulator: Just for cold start idle. When the Fuel Pump comes on so does this valve. When it heats itself up the whole way it closes the valve.

FICD: When your A/C compressor kicks on this valve opens.

AAC: This is the valve you're most likely trying to clean. This is the PWM valve your ECU controls to maintain idle RPM. There's a spring in this part of the assembly that you need to keep fairly clean.

Hope this helped someone!
since the AAC is the thing which you are trying to clean would taking off the iacv and cleaning it be a waste of time? where exactly is the iacv located?
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Old 12-25-2007, 12:24 PM   #55
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The small line to the left of it, what does it go to? The nipple from my intake broke off and I can't hook that line up. Should I plug the line, leave it free, do I need to get a new intake now?
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Old 12-28-2007, 11:42 PM   #56
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tps


so... after this cleaner goes through the aicv... it goes into your engine. I cant imagine its that bad for it though.

what does tps mean?
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Old 12-29-2007, 12:38 PM   #57
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what does tps mean?
Throttle Position Sensor
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Old 04-21-2008, 10:31 PM   #58
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Anyone have a pic of the hose?
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Old 04-22-2008, 12:23 AM   #59
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The house that you put stuff in to clean the IACV? Its one of the like 2 big hoses that goes into the stock intake. One goes to your VC, the other goes to your IACV
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Old 05-23-2008, 05:32 PM   #60
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sorry to bring up this tread again, but can some1 verify which hose it is? theres 2 hose on the intake, is it the small one or big one?

a picture if possible

thanks
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