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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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12-23-2014, 06:26 PM | #32 |
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Just that the mixture is probably off, alot of people will have the same problem, and call it normal.
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12-24-2014, 08:56 AM | #35 | |
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http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system.htm http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question248.htm When the thermostat is closed. No coolant should be flowing to the radiator. The heat produced in the engine stays there until the thermostat gets up to temperature and opens. Allowing coolant to flow into the radiator. If the engine gets to cold the thermostat closes to stop the flow to the radiator. The thermostats job is to keep the engine at a set temperature. With a proper cooling system your car should not overheat. The ECU is expecting the car to operate at 176F/80C. If it doesn't reach close to that it assumes the car has not warmed up yet and keeps the fuel mixture rich to be safe. This is bad for MPG, performance and engine life(fuel in oil).
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12-24-2014, 10:43 AM | #36 |
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The op has not reach operating temperature and his thermostat has opened!!!!!! The reason he isnt reaching operating temperature is because of the fan not his thermostat!!! If he puts an object like the cardboard i suggested in front of the radiator it will allow him to reach operating temperature. So no he does not have to go by a new thermostat for this reason. He could by an electric fan and a fan controller. If he bought a thermostat that opened at a higher temp his car would be able to reach 176f/80c faster to trigger closed loop yes. But he doesn't need to.
I can help the op fix his car without buying new parts, but suggesting he by a new ecu, mafs, cts, and ws harness, fan controller coolant and oil is an autozone move! So again op\thread starter to help reach operating temp and to trigger closed loop put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator. http://www.google.com/url?q=http://e...jDymdaf5oBEoXA Sent from my Highly Tuned Note4!!!
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12-24-2014, 11:16 AM | #37 |
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I think there are a few cooling system thread's active right now, so :what:
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12-24-2014, 11:33 AM | #38 |
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Op in nds there should be an active test that will allow you to fake the cts temperature. Set that to 82c or 179.6f after the car has be idle for a while and your normal temp stabilizes. Which is about 150 something. Video log that for me along with your wideband. See if you get closer to 14.7afr and 100 af base. G/L
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12-24-2014, 11:46 AM | #39 | |
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His thermostat is to low and he can't get up to temperature. Cause and effect. Replacing the thermostat for $7 is a simple fix that will have multiple benefits. I have not suggested anything more than that.
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12-24-2014, 12:21 PM | #40 |
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I do, its the cardboard in front of the radiator. Did you completely overlook that. And if he runs that test and the issue remains the same its not temperature related. If it does fix his issue he has options. Would you care to know them or are you done?
How are the cooling issue threads coming? One dude cant bleed properly, he needs your wisdom and howstuffworks links. Sent from my Highly Tuned Note4!!!
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12-24-2014, 12:24 PM | #41 |
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I actually learned about that function in NDS a few days ago.
When i manipulate the cts and make it think the engine is at 176 degrees, the idle drops down to what i set the base idle to. Which is 850. Car still runs a little rich (13.3 afr) But manipulating the cts isn't actually changing the temperature the engine is running at, so I'm not sure if the engine were warmer if that would change my afr's. I did order an oem thermostat though for safe measure. Plus its winter and i don't feel comfortable with my engine running at 150 all of the time. |
12-24-2014, 12:28 PM | #42 |
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i was going to get a thermostat from auto zone for like $10, but wasn't sure if i should trust it.
Ive read some things that made me a little eery of the idea. |
12-24-2014, 12:43 PM | #43 |
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Actually, if everything is functioning correctly that would make the ecu think you are at operating temp. Have you gotten a chance to run that boost leak test? Also if you place that card board in front of the radiator it will allow you to physical reach operating temperature. This would eliminate the obvious faulty sensors or wiring issues as a cause to why you were still rich with the active test.
Don't get me wrong you should have a higher temp thermostat or a way to control you temps better and even a redundancy, but for your issue to be resolved i dont think you need it. But if you go get a thermostat, think about replacing the 02 sensor and coolant temp sensor as well. They would be considered maintenance items. Sent from my Highly Tuned Note4!!!
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12-25-2014, 11:22 AM | #46 |
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Heres something else that i cant figure out. Sometimes when ever i turn the car on, the ignition timing will be at 20 degrees with idle at about 1600. Afr's at 11.4. And when ever it warms up, ignition timing will go down to 10btdc, with idle staying at 1250. Afr's staying at around 11.4.
But if i tap the gas, ignition timing will bump back up to 20 and stay there for a little while and go back down to 10 degrees. Unless i shut the car off and restart it. Then ignition timing goes where it should at 15btdc. Idle to 900rpm. And afr's at around 13.3 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F2Nnv...ature=youtu.be |
12-25-2014, 12:02 PM | #47 | |
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Dont people pay attention to shit like this? Its fucking annoying. |
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12-25-2014, 03:16 PM | #48 | |
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Sent from my Highly Tuned Note4!!!
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