Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[andisan]

There is two hoses one(bigger one) is for the break booster and the other one one which is small is a vacuum line for the whole egr system and other lines behind the engine head


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[potatomonkey99]

Does anyone know if I can use s14 ac lines in an s13? I know that the compressors are different sizes, but are the firewall connections the same?

[staying_chuki]

Originally Posted by potatomonkey99

Does anyone know if I can use s14 ac lines in an s13? I know that the compressors are different sizes, but are the firewall connections the same?

Afaik if you are using an s13 compressor u have to use s13 lines, same way with s14. And iirc the s14 lines will not work, i might be wrong though. Just look it up the topic has been covered. Also differences between r12 and 134


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[brokeboi01]

Anyone know if these black door trim mouldings are sold anywhere? Mines are all chipped and the trim is starting to rust.


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[Agamemnon]

Originally Posted by brokeboi01

Anyone know if these black door trim mouldings are sold anywhere? Mines are all chipped and the trim is starting to rust.


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The dealership.
RH - 80820-35F20
LH - 80821-35F20

[PatPs13]

Had an issue all weekend at the track. Whenever I drift a left turn my ka24de dies out to around 500rpm, then once I straighten out the rpms come back up. Right turns are 100% ok. Any ideas?

So far:

• Checked battery terminals
• Filled up to 1/2 tank of gas
• Replaced fuel pump sock
• Inspected and tucked the wire harness in the fender
• Wiggled around various fuel related wiring (Fuel Pump, Injectors)
• Checked main ground
• Checked firewall ground, not in the best shape, but I wiggled it and couldn't recreate the issue.

I've also been having pretty shitty mpg and the car tends to run rich, so i'm checking the fpr next, but if anyone else has any other ideas please let me know.

[staying_chuki]

Originally Posted by PatPs13

Had an issue all weekend at the track. Whenever I drift a left turn my ka24de dies out to around 500rpm, then once I straighten out the rpms come back up. Right turns are 100% ok. Any ideas?

So far:

• Checked battery terminals
• Filled up to 1/2 tank of gas
• Replaced fuel pump sock
• Inspected and tucked the wire harness in the fender
• Wiggled around various fuel related wiring (Fuel Pump, Injectors)
• Checked main ground
• Checked firewall ground, not in the best shape, but I wiggled it and couldn't recreate the issue.

I've also been having pretty shitty mpg and the car tends to run rich, so i'm checking the fpr next, but if anyone else has any other ideas please let me know.

Sounds fuel related. Def check the fpr and if you can try out a friends fuel pump do that as well. Could maybe be grounds, just because you cant recreate the issue doesnt mean thats not what it is lol, spent many a days chasing stuff because i assumed something was good.


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[potatomonkey99]

So I got another AC related question lol. Would lines out of a 90 240sx work on my 92? are the fittings on the KA24e and KA24de compressors the same, and are the fittings on the firewalls the same between 89-90 and 91-94?

[staying_chuki]

Originally Posted by potatomonkey99

So I got another AC related question lol. Would lines out of a 90 240sx work on my 92? are the fittings on the KA24e and KA24de compressors the same, and are the fittings on the firewalls the same between 89-90 and 91-94?

Not trying to trash talk bud but this has all been covered countless times. Google is your friend. Im not up to date on anything ka24e related but my guess is no. Just get the right shit, its not even expensive on ebay and its really gonna save you from future headaches. Itll be "great" when something else ac related breaks and you have to fix the frankenstein system. Saw a brand new system sellin on here for like 500 a while back.


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[mr.nismo.]

Originally Posted by potatomonkey99

So I got another AC related question lol. Would lines out of a 90 240sx work on my 92? are the fittings on the KA24e and KA24de compressors the same, and are the fittings on the firewalls the same between 89-90 and 91-94?

Originally Posted by staying_chuki

Not trying to trash talk bud but this has all been covered countless times. Google is your friend. Im not up to date on anything ka24e related but my guess is no. Just get the right shit, its not even expensive on ebay and its really gonna save you from future headaches. Itll be "great" when something else ac related breaks and you have to fix the frankenstein system. Saw a brand new system sellin on here for like 500 a while back.


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It has been. Although I will give him that it's not exactly covered about the firewall connections. The high side hookup is the same, but the low side is different. Had to find that one out myself when I received my dohc ac lines.

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[staying_chuki]

Originally Posted by mr.nismo.

It has been. Although I will give him that it's not exactly covered about the firewall connections. The high side hookup is the same, but the low side is different. Had to find that one out myself when I received my dohc ac lines.

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Nice, throwin down actual credible info instead of my guess lol [emoji1303]


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[brokeboi01]

Are there specific “safe speeds” that Nissan suggests when shifting each gear? It seems every time I shift into second, there’s friction throughout unless I shift into second at 2300-2500 rpm. It’s an sr tranny and I just had it completely rebuilt at a transmission shop, All Transmission World for those who may be familiar.


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[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by brokeboi01

Are there specific “safe speeds” that Nissan suggests when shifting each gear? It seems every time I shift into second, there’s friction throughout unless I shift into second at 2300-2500 rpm. It’s an sr tranny and I just had it completely rebuilt at a transmission shop, All Transmission World for those who may be familiar.


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6800+ rpm?
My little B13 was never happy being shifted lower than redline until I put MOTUL lubricants into it

[Kingtal0n]

Im pretty suspension dumb if anyone can answer this pls,

I just put some adjustable tension rods on the 240. I read that I should probably be at some positive caster. Can I just put a little tension in the rod to pull the control arm forward a bit past neutral with the weight of the car on all 4?

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

Im pretty suspension dumb if anyone can answer this pls,

I just put some adjustable tension rods on the 240. I read that I should probably be at some positive caster. Can I just put a little tension in the rod to pull the control arm forward a bit past neutral with the weight of the car on all 4?

I'd probably be an asshole if I suggested a proper alignment. I love my lifetime Firestone alignment.

Bottom line, any adjustment that is not correct will show in faster tire wear, and tires cost about as much as good car parts

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

I'd probably be an asshole if I suggested a proper alignment. I love my lifetime Firestone alignment.

Bottom line, any adjustment that is not correct will show in faster tire wear, and tires cost about as much as good car parts

I'd measure my old caster rods and use that length before I bothered getting it aligned.

Heck, I'd reinstall my old caster rods if thats what I had to do.

This isn't toe we are talking here. Caster shouldn't be that big of a deal. I just dont know how much tension or compression it takes to get where I should be.

[wurley]

z32 -> 350z track rotor adapters. Do they move the caliper out towards the face/spokes of the wheel?

[imbored205]

95 SE

Driver side window stopped working. Passenger side works.

I went through the FSM and all the voltages and continuity readings pass normally.

The power window amp clicks normally.

When I connected the power window amp directly to the battery, the window rolled down briefly then stopped. It wouldnt go up or down after that. Does that mean this part is the culprit since the window motor briefly worked? Even when I swapped the part with a spare I had, it still didnt work later.

Connecting the power window regulator connector to the battery directly did not move the window up or down.


What do?

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by imbored205

95 SE

Driver side window stopped working. Passenger side works.

I went through the FSM and all the voltages and continuity readings pass normally.

The power window amp clicks normally.

When I connected the power window amp directly to the battery, the window rolled down briefly then stopped. It wouldnt go up or down after that. Does that mean this part is the culprit since the window motor briefly worked? Even when I swapped the part with a spare I had, it still didnt work later.

Connecting the power window regulator connector to the battery directly did not move the window up or down.


What do?

All I read was driver window, 95 SE

Those driver window switches 95-96 are all "bad". Update to 97 switch if possible. I think I've even heard of them catching fire. Whats happening is the window is getting stuck in "down" and it just like holding the window motor to roll down forever. So its constantly draining the batt, this current to the window motor trying to put it down all the time. When mine does it I beat it and it stops after a couple good wacks. But they should be replaced.

[R3b]

Anyone know the part # for that nissan forklift starter that bolts up to the ka? Its basically identical and cost half the price lol

Also unrelated noticed lately i've been getting this werid issue on decel where car doesnt want to lean out all the way and its like the engine is still firing fuel and enough air to keep it moving along like im on throttle? TPS voltage related maybe? Ecu thinking its still open and letting it still fire the injectors? I doubt its injectors since theyre ID1050x on e85 which shouldnt be an issue... It only happens when I drive more than 30mins and car gets fairly hot as in from driving awhile vs a quick 1-5mile trip to work.

[jumpman2334]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

I just put some adjustable tension rods on the 240. I read that I should probably be at some positive caster. Can I just put a little tension in the rod to pull the control arm forward a bit past neutral with the weight of the car on all 4?

while this may be a good ballpark guess, impossible to tell if you didn't have any baseline #s. there are a bunch of variables that can effect caster. putting on aftermarket arms adds another (until aligned).


it looks like you've got the measuring down (setting to stock length), but you will need an alignment afterwards either way. find someone who is willing to work with you on your alignment needs. most shops I've seen set everything back to the acceptable zone and send the cars on their way.


ive done the front myself on my lexus and let me tell you, its a pain in the ass if you don't have the right tools (lots of up and down). I got the toe nice and close, but now my caster is all out of wack.

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

Bottom line, any adjustment that is not correct will show in faster tire wear, and tires cost about as much as good car parts

tires ARE 'good car parts'

[Crazyced]

In an autocross setting for a KA24E S13, if you had to CHOOSE between a cat back exhaust, a gutted cat (test pipe) or aftermarket pulleys, what would you pick?

[5280VertDET]

Anyone have a fix for a "ovaled out" clutch master cylinder cotter pin hole on the clutch pedal? Seem to be getting a bit of "slop" from it.

Bought it used and did not notice the shape in the pictures.

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by 5280VertDET

Anyone have a fix for a "ovaled out" clutch master cylinder cotter pin hole on the clutch pedal? Seem to be getting a bit of "slop" from it.

Bought it used and did not notice the shape in the pictures.

The pin or the rod hole? I got a rebuild kit at the parts store that had everything but the iron housing. Not the seal kit.

[5280VertDET]

Originally Posted by S14DB

The pin or the rod hole? I got a rebuild kit at the parts store that had everything but the iron housing. Not the seal kit.

Not my car or even a S13, but this whole thing.




I was thinking of doing something like this from an E30:



Not sure if anyone else had a better option.

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by Crazyced

In an autocross setting for a KA24E S13, if you had to CHOOSE between a cat back exhaust, a gutted cat (test pipe) or aftermarket pulleys, what would you pick?

If they all keep you in the same class I would go with the cat back. If your cat is good you won't see a noticeable gains from a test pipe on an NA KA24E.

Pulleys will reduce some parasitic losses giving you a little power and efficiency(mpg). Cat back is still going to give you more power. We are taking accessories pulleys and not the crank. A good crank pulley with a harmonic damper in it is expensive and a undamped pulley is a bad idea.

[apex128]

Originally Posted by Crazyced

In an autocross setting for a KA24E S13, if you had to CHOOSE between a cat back exhaust, a gutted cat (test pipe) or aftermarket pulleys, what would you pick?

I would go with the test pipe. Unless you can gut the stock cat for free and get a catback as well.

[Crazyced]

Originally Posted by S14DB

If they all keep you in the same class I would go with the cat back. If your cat is good you won't see a noticeable gains from a test pipe on an NA KA24E.

Pulleys will reduce some parasitic losses giving you a little power and efficiency(mpg). Cat back is still going to give you more power. We are taking accessories pulleys and not the crank. A good crank pulley with a harmonic damper in it is expensive and a undamped pulley is a bad idea.

Thanks. Do you need a special gasket to seal up a 3" exhaust flange to the stock cat? Or a stock gasket will do?

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by Crazyced

In an autocross setting for a KA24E S13, if you had to CHOOSE between a cat back exhaust, a gutted cat (test pipe) or aftermarket pulleys, what would you pick?

Under drive pully's with an ATI damper pully will get better results.

If you're going to do exhaust, do the whole thing, header back to test pipe to cat back, 2.5" system for better results. 3" system is shit for what you are doing, loses power, and those exhaust mods you mention will put your power band where you can't use in in auto x

[Crazyced]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

Under drive pully's with an ATI damper pully will get better results.

If you're going to do exhaust, do the whole thing, header back to test pipe to cat back, 2.5" system for better results. 3" system is shit for what you are doing, loses power, and those exhaust mods you mention will put your power band where you can't use in in auto x

I won't be spending 700$ on an ATI pully for a KA.

According to this, no power is lost:
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=102582

Plus I already have a 3" exhaust sitting around. If I do headers I will be bumped in class, not worth it.