Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[kashira kureijii]

Originally Posted by Corbic

SPEC did not come with a TOB.

I do not recall anything remarkable with the original TOB in the trans 6 years ago.

They just look different between stock and the ones that come with the exedy is what I was saying. The ones the come with the exedy were larger area than stock if I remember correctly, I don't know if it makes a difference or not


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[Javi802]

Can anybody confirm that the resistance for an s13 sr20 injector should be within 10-14 ohms? I know that the s14 fsm says 10-14 is within spec, but I hate making assumptions.

I have some sard 850cc's that I bought awhile ago and just got around to ohm testing. All came out to 14 ohms.

[Corbic]

Originally Posted by derass

I agree. If it were a Nissan part, I don't think the hub would be purple.

The Exedy is part NSD098U. I show that as OEM replacement - $145 new.

Car has 1000cc and a 60-Trim turbo. I'm guessing between 205 and 400hp....

Should I presume the clutch is not going to hold up and I'll be swapping it again in 3 months?

[kashira kureijii]

Originally Posted by Corbic

The Exedy is part NSD098U. I show that as OEM replacement - $145 new.

Car has 1000cc and a 60-Trim turbo. I'm guessing between 205 and 400hp....

Should I presume the clutch is not going to hold up and I'll be swapping it again in 3 months?

Depends on how you drive haha
I have the Oem replacement one too, and it's lasted 15k with 215 redtop hp at the wheels cuz!

Seriously though, I would bet that if your easy on it it would last quite a while regardless of hp.

We talked about this in a "what clutch is best clutch" thread last year and if I remember correctly there was a few people who had been using the clutch for quite a while @ high hp, and others who had exploded theirs.

So it probably depends


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[Crazyced]

Originally Posted by Corbic

Anyway, which clutch looks better or are they both toast.

I'd go with the Exedy. But whatever you do, get that flywheel and pressure plate to a clutch shop for resurfacing. Heck if you have the capital I'd just get a new disc as well.

[Corbic]

Originally Posted by Crazyced

I'd go with the Exedy. But whatever you do, get that flywheel and pressure plate to a clutch shop for resurfacing. Heck if you have the capital I'd just get a new disc as well.

Yeah, even a Spec would only be $150 for a disk.


Just called NAPA l, they wanted $65 to surface the flywheel. Jesus H Christ.

Need to call around. Nothing's ever easy.

[Crazyced]

Originally Posted by Corbic

Yeah, even a Spec would only be $150 for a disk.


Just called NAPA l, they wanted $65 to surface the flywheel. Jesus H Christ.

Need to call around. Nothing's ever easy.

If you opt to resurface the pressure plate as well, make sure they also take the same amount off the mating surfaces to keep the throw identical. A clutch place would already know but FYI.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by Corbic

Yeah, even a Spec would only be $150 for a disk.


Just called NAPA l, they wanted $65 to surface the flywheel. Jesus H Christ.

Need to call around. Nothing's ever easy.

$65 is pretty good for a job that takes a machinist away from real work to walk over, observe, adjust, and insure your flywheel doesn't get ruined. $150 for a new disc, $65 to resurface flywheel, that's a hair over $200. May as well go ISR for that, or be the baller and save a bit more for the entire ACT set that will hold 400'# of torque(over 450hp)

[Crazyced]

Originally Posted by Corbic

Is just the picture or is the flywheel actually pretty deeply pitted/gouged?

[Itsuki Takeuchi]

Originally Posted by Crazyced

Is just the picture or is the flywheel actually pretty deeply pitted/gouged?

it seems like there is some pits but not for sure. defently clean it off real good, and you can tell. if you are installing a new clutch, its best to have it resurfaced no matter what.

[Corbic]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

$65 is pretty good for a job that takes a machinist away from real work to walk over, observe, adjust, and insure your flywheel doesn't get ruined.)

Bullshit.

Resurfacing a flywheel is "real work" as in it pays the bills. Total costs should be under $40 an hour. A resurface job should take no more then 15 minutes.

$25-30 is reasonable. $65 is a bullshit joke.

[Jibbberish]

Originally Posted by Jibbberish

So I've got a troubling problem. Running a pretty much stock blacktop sr. Just has FMIC, boost controller (that's turned off, so its just on wastegate pressure), t28, and that's about it. Atmospheric bov as well which comes with its own issues but shouldn't cause this.

Problem is it's going WAAAAY lean at idle, and too lean while cruising. At idle it'll go off the gauge on my AEM wideband, which means 18+. Cruising it was at like 16+, and wide open it was just fine in the high 11's to low 12's.

So I've got the crappy little AFC neo, and I had to go +50 (which is the max) at 500rpm, and +28 at 1000rpm to get the afr at idle to sit around 14.6. And sometimes the engine will shutter for a second and the afr will go down to like 11 then slowly climb back up. Values at other revs had to go to between like +5 and +8 to get cruising afr to high 14's, low 15's. All these settings were done at a local shop on a dyno, timing was checked in the process.

I don't seem to have any vacuum or boost leaks. Wide open it runs just fine. What's goin on here?
Few other symptoms:
-When letting the car decelerate in gear, often times there'll be a loud ass pop that kinda sounds like an intake backfire at 1500rpm. Always at 1500. I assume it's because I'm throwing so much fuel at it down there, but I thought that shouldn't matter off throttle?
-Also, if I clutch in and let the revs drop it'll drop to like 600 and shutter for a second then surge back up to idle. Not due to the bov because in this case i'm not gassing it before I put the clutch in.
-At super low throttle cruising (like 1-5%, when i'm just barely on the gas going downhill or something) it'll go rich as hell, like 12. Increase throttle to 8%ish and up and it'll go back to around 15.

Sorry if this is long winded as fuck lol trying to give a good description.

So I cleaned the maf, checked everything for leaks blah blah. No change, so I decided to re-route the breather hose from the valve cover to the intake before the maf, rather than after:



And that made it worse sorta. Now I have to give it +50 at 500 and 1000rpm on the neo, and afr at idle is even leaner at around 16. It doesn't stumble going down to idle when I put it in neutral as badly as it did before and the throttle response is a little better but it does still stumble and died once.

The sensor for the maf in the AFC Neo is set to "hot wire", then "In" 1, "Out" 1, then "In" single, "Out" single. Does anyone have one of these that can tell me if that's right or not?

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by Jibbberish

So I cleaned the maf, checked everything for leaks blah blah. No change, so I decided to re-route the breather hose from the valve cover to the intake before the maf, rather than after:

The sensor for the maf in the AFC Neo is set to "hot wire", then "In" 1, "Out" 1, then "In" single, "Out" single. Does anyone have one of these that can tell me if that's right or not?

Breather hose should be after maf, like stock.

Looks like you have an S13 SR, should set to hotwire 6 in and out. S14a/S15 is HW-5. I got this info from the AFC-Neo manual (RTFM): http://www.apexi-usa.com/manuals/ele...eo_diagram.pdf

I would almost recommend getting rid of the AFC in the first place, since you essentially have a stock setup.

[dorkidori_s13]

SAFC's suuuuuuuuuuuuck! waste of money.

that breather hose goes after the MAF. youre just going to get a ton of oil residue all over your MAF sensor that way too!

i would REALLY recommend dumping all those screw clamps youre using and run t-bolt clamps. screw clamps are only good for 2-3 uses, then they begin to warp and lose holding power like crazy.

[derass]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

i would REALLY recommend dumping all those screw clamps youre using and run t-bolt clamps. screw clamps are only good for 2-3 uses, then they begin to warp and lose holding power like crazy.

The leading tuner in my area would disagree:

http://www.onpointdyno.com/?p=2676

[Jibbberish]

Originally Posted by LoSt180

Breather hose should be after maf, like stock.

Looks like you have an S13 SR, should set to hotwire 6 in and out. S14a/S15 is HW-5. I got this info from the AFC-Neo manual (RTFM): http://www.apexi-usa.com/manuals/ele...eo_diagram.pdf

I would almost recommend getting rid of the AFC in the first place, since you essentially have a stock setup.

Aight I'll put the hose back. Kinda just wanted to see what would happen lol. Thanks for the link, my manual doesn't have that information.

And yeah the only reason I have the dumb thing is cause it was in the car when I bought it. I was planning on ripping out out until I saw my afr's.

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by Jibbberish

Aight I'll put the hose back. Kinda just wanted to see what would happen lol. Thanks for the link, my manual doesn't have that information.

And yeah the only reason I have the dumb thing is cause it was in the car when I bought it. I was planning on ripping out out until I saw my afr's.

AFR's are probably off because it's using the wrong setting for MAF type. Crossing fingers it was just that simple setting.

[Javi802]

Originally Posted by Javi802

Can anybody confirm that the resistance for an s13 sr20 injector should be within 10-14 ohms? I know that the s14 fsm says 10-14 is within spec, but I hate making assumptions.

I have some sard 850cc's that I bought awhile ago and just got around to ohm testing. All came out to 14 ohms.

..................

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by Javi802

Can anybody confirm that the resistance for an s13 sr20 injector should be within 10-14 ohms? I know that the s14 fsm says 10-14 is within spec, but I hate making assumptions.

I have some sard 850cc's that I bought awhile ago and just got around to ohm testing. All came out to 14 ohms.

S13 and S14 injectors are the same. That said, the 180SX 1991 SR20DET FSM is all in Japanese, but next to a picture of an injector it has the ohms symbol and a number 10. S14 FSM says 10-14 like you said, and S15 FSM says 11 ohms.

[Jibbberish]

Originally Posted by LoSt180

AFR's are probably off because it's using the wrong setting for MAF type. Crossing fingers it was just that simple setting.

So I put the breather hose back to the stock location and changed the setting. No real difference lol . Leaving the fuel correction maxed out at +50, afr at idle is down a little bit now I suppose, typically stays between 15-15.5. But still not right and I shouldn't have to blow that much fuel at it.

Afr's at idle are still kinda inconsistent. It'll chill around 15-15.5 for like 10 seconds then randomly drop to around 12 for a second and you can feel it in the idle, then it creeps back up to 15's.

Still tries to die when I go into neutral, revs drop to like 650 and it surges for a second.

Wide open it's still actually a little rich, 10 - low 11's. And cruising (wth between +5 and +7 fuel correction) it's around 15.

Still has a nasty backfire like clockwork at 1500rpm on decel.

For some reason if i'm in a higher gear and I throw it into neutral, it doesn't bobble as much. Like if i'm cruising in second at like 3k and put it in neutral, more often than not it dies. Third gear same rpm it'll bobble down to like 650 then surge back up. Fourth gear at same rpm it'll only drop to like 750 and you don't really feel it bog. That's probably a coincidence due to some other factor but odd nonetheless.

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by Jibbberish

So I put the breather hose back to the stock location and changed the setting. No real difference lol . Leaving the fuel correction maxed out at +50, afr at idle is down a little bit now I suppose, typically stays between 15-15.5. But still not right and I shouldn't have to blow that much fuel at it.

Afr's at idle are still kinda inconsistent. It'll chill around 15-15.5 for like 10 seconds then randomly drop to around 12 for a second and you can feel it in the idle, then it creeps back up to 15's.

Still tries to die when I go into neutral, revs drop to like 650 and it surges for a second.

Wide open it's still actually a little rich, 10 - low 11's. And cruising (wth between +5 and +7 fuel correction) it's around 15.

Still has a nasty backfire like clockwork at 1500rpm on decel.

For some reason if i'm in a higher gear and I throw it into neutral, it doesn't bobble as much. Like if i'm cruising in second at like 3k and put it in neutral, more often than not it dies. Third gear same rpm it'll bobble down to like 650 then surge back up. Fourth gear at same rpm it'll only drop to like 750 and you don't really feel it bog. That's probably a coincidence due to some other factor but odd nonetheless.

I think you've exhausted the small questions thread and should make a new post, lol. Might have something else going on, like a boost/vacuum leak or wiring issue.

[Crazyced]

Originally Posted by Jibbberish

So I put the breather hose back to the stock location and changed the setting. No real difference lol . Leaving the fuel correction maxed out at +50, afr at idle is down a little bit now I suppose, typically stays between 15-15.5. But still not right and I shouldn't have to blow that much fuel at it.

Afr's at idle are still kinda inconsistent. It'll chill around 15-15.5 for like 10 seconds then randomly drop to around 12 for a second and you can feel it in the idle, then it creeps back up to 15's.

Still tries to die when I go into neutral, revs drop to like 650 and it surges for a second.

Wide open it's still actually a little rich, 10 - low 11's. And cruising (wth between +5 and +7 fuel correction) it's around 15.

Still has a nasty backfire like clockwork at 1500rpm on decel.

For some reason if i'm in a higher gear and I throw it into neutral, it doesn't bobble as much. Like if i'm cruising in second at like 3k and put it in neutral, more often than not it dies. Third gear same rpm it'll bobble down to like 650 then surge back up. Fourth gear at same rpm it'll only drop to like 750 and you don't really feel it bog. That's probably a coincidence due to some other factor but odd nonetheless.

Did you ACTUALLY do a boost leak test? With an air compressor and all? If you didn't, do it. We had a guy on another forum swear left and right that he "didn't have any leaks". Finally did a proper boost leak test and it turned out a pulley chewed a quarter size hole in his charge pipe.

Your issue has 'after MAF vacuum leak' written all over it. That would also explain why it's on the rich side when in boost, because air is escaping instead of seeping in.

EDIT:

Originally Posted by Jibbberish

Atmospheric bov as well which comes with its own issues but shouldn't cause this.

I think this is might be your ultimate undoing. If it stays cracked open at idle it could definitly cause issues. Do a boost leak test. Then seal the BOV off completely at test again.

In most cars the O2 sensor would eventually kick in and work the fuel trims but for some reason I think you're not running one either.

[Jibbberish]

I did sort of a ghetto home boost leak test. I have a vacuum that'll blow air as well so I sealed it to the end of the charge pipe and turned it on real quick and listened/felt around. Did the same thing a while ago to find exhaust leaks and it worked really well. Was annoyed that it was inconclusive because really what else could it be ya know?

I think I'm gonna try again with my buddy's air compressor or see if I can find someone with a smoke tester. I'll try that with the BOV as well.

I'm am running an 02 sensor lol I don't think it would really run without one. But that's the thing, I figured if it's just a vacuum leak sure it'll idle like crap but the afr's wouldn't be that jacked, the car should be able to at least figure that part out.


One other thing I noticed today was that when I give it gentle throttle at a stop in neutral (just enough for like 1250-1500rpm) it seems to be misfiring a bit, maybe that's what's causing that backfire. Not sure why it would only misfire in a very specific rev range though.

[Crazyced]

Originally Posted by Jibbberish

I did sort of a ghetto home boost leak test. I have a vacuum that'll blow air as well so I sealed it to the end of the charge pipe and turned it on real quick and listened/felt around. Did the same thing a while ago to find exhaust leaks and it worked really well. Was annoyed that it was inconclusive because really what else could it be ya know?

I think I'm gonna try again with my buddy's air compressor or see if I can find someone with a smoke tester. I'll try that with the BOV as well.

I'm am running an 02 sensor lol I don't think it would really run without one. But that's the thing, I figured if it's just a vacuum leak sure it'll idle like crap but the afr's wouldn't be that jacked, the car should be able to at least figure that part out.


One other thing I noticed today was that when I give it gentle throttle at a stop in neutral (just enough for like 1250-1500rpm) it seems to be misfiring a bit, maybe that's what's causing that backfire. Not sure why it would only misfire in a very specific rev range though.

Some people including my car runs without an O2 sensor. Previous owner just swapped it for a wideband.

Have you tried swapping the MAF (with someone local) and/or disconnecting the AFC entirely? If something funky is happening at the MAF, SAFC and anywhere in between those and the ECU it could cause all kinds of weird problems.

I don't know much about the AFC Neo, can it tell you the raw MAF voltage? If so check that at idle then compare to what it should be for stock SR20's. If you are confirmed leak free and the voltage is way off, it might very well be the MAF.

Heck a quicker test would be to just disconnect your MAF (and AFC) and see how your idle does.

[Jorgs_7]

Went through some shit I got from prior owner with my car. Found a rear sway bar (godspeed I think). Its heavy AF and is 27mm thick (same as front sway bar).

This seems like it would negatively affect the cars handling to slap on a 1" thick rear sway bar. Thoughts?

[codyace]

Originally Posted by Jibbberish

So I cleaned the maf, checked everything for leaks blah blah. No change, so I decided to re-route the breather hose from the valve cover to the intake before the maf, rather than after:

Have you tried a second MAF?

Originally Posted by derass

The leading tuner in my area would disagree:

http://www.onpointdyno.com/?p=2676

Your leading tuner is wrong, and right.

1. The bead rolled section of pipe helps tremendously, that's probably teh most crucial element with any pipe conection

2. T bolts do suck, but they also will work MUCH better than a worm gear clamp in a situation without a good bead roll

3. T bolts and worm gear suck as they don't 'move' with the pipe...which also can lead to failure

4. Worm gears also tear into couplers

So with that all considered, the best coupler clamps are Breeze constant torque style clamps. These are ideal in almost every situation, and are suitable for a ton of pressure too. Easy to install, and Not to mention affordable.

Advantages? They slightly/expand and contract with temperature to always have a good seal, and at the same time are a safe clamp, smaller than a T bolt, and reusable.

...and something you find ALL OVER heavy trucks and equipment...unlike worm gear stuff. Goes to show you the quality of a product if it's common/oem grade on stuff that sees a million+ miles

Originally Posted by Crazyced

Your issue has 'after MAF vacuum leak' written all over it. That would also explain why it's on the rich side when in boost, because air is escaping instead of seeping in.

Agreed.

Originally Posted by Jibbberish

I'm am running an 02 sensor lol I don't think it would really run without one. But that's the thing, I figured if it's just a vacuum leak sure it'll idle like crap but the afr's wouldn't be that jacked, the car should be able to at least figure that part out.

It will run without an o2, it then relies upon a preset value and the TPS.


With that said, have you verified TPS is ok? A shit o2 and a shit TPS reading can make it do wacky stuff for sure.

Originally Posted by Jorgs_7

Went through some shit I got from prior owner with my car. Found a rear sway bar (godspeed I think). Its heavy AF and is 27mm thick (same as front sway bar).

This seems like it would negatively affect the cars handling to slap on a 1" thick rear sway bar. Thoughts?

You want the smallest rear sway bar IMO for the best possible for ultimate handling. With that said, 27mm and big isn't ideal.

[gryphon]

Stupid question but:
I was trying to time my s13 ka24de with a timing light and couldn't get close to 20*BTDC even when maxing out the distributor in either direction. Thought it might be a tooth off since it was running pretty choppy.

Tried moving the dis tooth in either direction but still nothing, reset the cams etc etc but still couldn't get the timing right.

Currently have the upper chain for the cams off and then I noticed that one of the spark plug wires wasn't connected correctly.

So before I put everything back together, my question is: would running on 3 of 4 cylinders cause the timing to be off?

Thanks in advance to any help

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by Jorgs_7

Went through some shit I got from prior owner with my car. Found a rear sway bar (godspeed I think). Its heavy AF and is 27mm thick (same as front sway bar).

This seems like it would negatively affect the cars handling to slap on a 1" thick rear sway bar. Thoughts?

Typically, if I was setting up a car for how I personally drive, no. Buuuuut, for over half the guys where I am, a huge yes.
You see, that heavy sway bar in the rear will make the rear slide a whole lot in a corner, ie, it will allow a lot more drift, and be easier to manipulate into more angle with a simple feint and powerover. It will cause far more oversteer than maybe 25% of 240 owners want. That other 75% who only want drift, well, it will work miracles for the beginner, and allow well experienced to get rid of that damnable parking brake habit. Ya'all DO realize that lever is for parking on a hill, right?

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by gryphon

Stupid question but:
I was trying to time my s13 ka24de with a timing light and couldn't get close to 20*BTDC even when maxing out the distributor in either direction. Thought it might be a tooth off since it was running pretty choppy.

Tried moving the dis tooth in either direction but still nothing, reset the cams etc etc but still couldn't get the timing right.

Currently have the upper chain for the cams off and then I noticed that one of the spark plug wires wasn't connected correctly.

So before I put everything back together, my question is: would running on 3 of 4 cylinders cause the timing to be off?

Thanks in advance to any help

Yes...and no.
If it was mechanically timed correctly, a strong miss would not allow the light to be accurate. ALSO, when using your light, get your view down lower where you can see it from the diz side. Your diz should stab so that the adjuster groove is centered, and proper time will be 15*btdc.
If you have all your wires and plugs correct, mechanical time correct, you should be able to hear the engine when it is perfectly timed by ear.
Now know this; I bent several valves learning how to time MY KA24DE, but what I learned from that was how to time the motherfuckers RIGHT, by insuring the idler sprocket mark is where it is supposed to be, cam dots and lobes are correctly positioned, and Diz is prepositioned for stabbing so it falls right to #1 on insertion.
Assisting a friend last weekend who could not get his timing right, I pulled the diz, reset it, and stabbed it. When we fired the engine, before a timing light was even hooked up, I had it purring at idle, and ripping easily up on rev. Turned on the timing light and well, lets just say the only thing left to do was tighten the bolt.

A new OBXR header, some new Diz parts, cut off a heat shield, pull a sensor, disconnect the cat back, and I will be ready to put the head back on my car, time it, and fire it up so I can get back to dailying my 240...plus there is this exit ramp that has a perfectly banked drop into the road, wide enough, with just enough inner shoulder, I may be able to get a good small angle drift off the freeway when no traffic allows.

Go ahead, break your own parts. It'll teach you a lot on what NOT to do. It costs a bit more, but thee lesson is worth it, plus it allows one to spend even MORE money by dumping it into your whore of a 240

[Itsuki Takeuchi]

Above^^^

i always had the problem with the dizzy. cause you can set it where it needs to be but when you stab it, it turns. i always turn a 1/4 to the left and then stab now. usually gets it first try.