*Ask Broadfield*

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by Broadfield

I typically use 18 ga. since that's what I have at the shop for doing alarm and remote start installs. You would be fine with using something smaller, like 20 or 22 ga. Brand doesn't really matter though. The better stuff that is OEM spec will have better abrasion resistance etc. The cheap stuff typically will use a less flexible outer sheathing.

Keep in mind though, I never really "install" gauges unless it's on my own vehicle or maybe a friend's vehicle. I just do the fabrication to house the gauges. It's obviously up to the customer to wire them in their vehicle.

Yeah I'm looking for some OEM quality 20ga in multicolor. Just unsure of quality of what is out there. Just wondering if you had recommended suppliers.

[dazed]

Mr. Broadfield.

Been reading up on your Bride door car guide. You don't really specifically say which kind of glue adhesive you use. You also say that you don't recommend using the spray-on adhesives because they aren't strong enough.

Well, before I read that I went out and purchased this guy:



Loctite Spray Adhesive Professional Performance from Loctite Adhesives

Think it will be up for the job? I'm doing door cards/glovebox/center console.

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by S14DB

Yeah I'm looking for some OEM quality 20ga in multicolor. Just unsure of quality of what is out there. Just wondering if you had recommended suppliers.

The problem is that most suppliers require you to order a minimum of 1000 feet of each color. And it's really not that good of a price unless you order several thousand feet of each color. If you are not wanting thousands of feet, then I would suggest contacting Chase at Chase Bays. He will sell whatever quantities you want.

Originally Posted by DaZeD

Mr. Broadfield.

Been reading up on your Bride door car guide. You don't really specifically say which kind of glue adhesive you use. You also say that you don't recommend using the spray-on adhesives because they aren't strong enough.

Well, before I read that I went out and purchased this guy:



Loctite Spray Adhesive Professional Performance from Loctite Adhesives

Think it will be up for the job? I'm doing door cards/glovebox/center console.

No, that will absolutely not hold over time on the door card... probably not even for one year. It will release in the corners at the very least. You should be able to use it on the glove box and center armrest without issues though.

I do state in my writeup that you need to use contact adhesive... which will need to be sprayed out of an automotive spray gun with a fairly large tip. For whatever brand of adhesive you use, just follow the manufacturers recommendation on tip size. If they don't state it, simply contact them. Brand doesn't really matter though. I have used several brands over the years with the same results. Lately I have been using DAP:

DAP Products - Construction Adhesives - DAP® Landau Top & Trim High Heat Resistant Contact Cement

[KiLLeR2001]

Nooo! I hate when I have the last post on a page, I always get skipped!

http://zilvia.net/f/off-topic-chat/4...ml#post4848838

^ Click please,

[dazed]

Ah ok. Missed that part. Thanks for the info!

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by KiLLeR2001

Nooo! I hate when I have the last post on a page, I always get skipped!

http://zilvia.net/f/off-topic-chat/4...ml#post4848838

^ Click please,

Damn, you are right.... I totally missed it.

Originally Posted by KiLLeR2001

Do you know of any reputable sources where I can get alcantara fabric by the yard? I am soon planning on doing my headliner, dash, door cards, center console door etc in this fabric. About how much fabric would you think I would need to complete the task? (S13 interior).

I do not do upholstery work... well except for myself. So I really don't have any sources or have any reason to for that matter. With that being said, I would simply go to a local automotive upholstery shop and purchase the material from them. They will have TONS of books with samples that you can sift through and probably find exactly what you are looking for. They can also tell you which ones stretch the best etc. As for material, simply measure all of the dimensions then add them all up. So for the door card, if the widest section is 24" and the tallest section is 12" then you would want to add around 6" to each of those measurements to account for overhang etc. Now that's not the actual measurement of the door card insert, it's just an example. I'm at work and don't have my door card here to measure. So in this example you would need 2 pieces 30"x18". If the material that you buy is 60" or wider, then you would only need 18 linear inches to cover both cards. Then add in whatever else you want to cover and figure out how many linear yards you need. But the width of the material will dictate how many linear yards you need. I use car audio carpet that comes in 36", 52" and 72" widths. So it just depends on the manufacturer and model of material.

[hockeyrules]

Originally Posted by Broadfield

What vehicle and which plastic parts exactly? Textured, smooth, what color? Are they just faded, dirty, scratched, gouged, cracked, missing?

Sorry its an s13, center console, and radio trim. There is dirty, sratched and just looks old

[Fearell]

Have you ever dyed or painted interior dash/door pieces? I have a blue dash in my S13 and would like to keep it.. however it's cracked and I've been unsuccessful at finding a nice one. Have you ever had to paint/dye parts blue? If so what product did you use and where can I find it?

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by hockeyrules

Sorry its an s13, center console, and radio trim. There is dirty, sratched and just looks old

If all of the pieces you are talking about are smooth(since the center console has both texture and smooth on it) then you first need to clean it with a degreaser really well. Then you will need to sand the scratches out. I can't really tell you what grit of sandpaper to use since I don't know how deep the scratches are. But I would imagine 240 grit would work. If you have really deep scratches then you may need to fill them first with body filler. You would then need to sand the filler down starting with 80, then 120, 180 and finish the entire piece with 240. Then sand the whole thing with 320 wet and finish with 400 or 500 wet. You will then use the paint of your choice. I recommend the SEM Color Coat series. Comes in a spray can and yields OEM results.

Originally Posted by Fearell

Have you ever dyed or painted interior dash/door pieces? I have a blue dash in my S13 and would like to keep it.. however it's cracked and I've been unsuccessful at finding a nice one. Have you ever had to paint/dye parts blue? If so what product did you use and where can I find it?

As above, I recommend the SEM Color Coat series.

[LayNLow]

Hey Broadfield, I have a question. I have read a good bit of this thread and havent seen anything pertaining to my question.
When you make gauge clusters, I could ship you an empty cluster right?

[enkei2k]

With a ~1k budget, what brand/models would you recommend for a sound system?

- double din head unit
- 6.5" component speakers with tweeters
- amp
- 10" subwoofer
- wiring kit

I'm at a loss as to what's "good" anymore since I bought JL 10W3 and Alpine MRP-500 from you almost 2 years ago. Are those models still good now or are there newer models?

For the head unit, my only requirements is that it doesn't need GPS since I already have a stand alone Garmin that my girlfriend got me (can't get rid of that!) and possibly HD radio. I was thinking about the Pioneer P3400BH? Yay or nay?

[mpact1981]

I modified the cubby in my 350z with some pressboard type of material and a simple sticker overlay. the cubby had a motorized door and the gears got stuck and i broke the door completely off trying to open it (black craft board covering hole where cubby use to open and slide into dash for now)... well i have a new cubby and rather than switching my setup over I'd like to try your method to get a more stock look...

so my question is: can you give me the product info for the plastic and bonding/adhesive you use?

also, are you able to sand the adhesive on the side being displayed when it dries? or do you fit/bond it so no adhesive comes through to the display side, like i did on mine?

[IMG][/IMG]

[s14fbs]

what alarm system do you suggest for my s13 and also what actuators would u suggest for keyless entry on non power doors

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by LayNLow

Hey Broadfield, I have a question. I have read a good bit of this thread and havent seen anything pertaining to my question.
When you make gauge clusters, I could ship you an empty cluster right?

Correct, I just need the framework of the cluster, the back white section and the front glass if you want it polished. I would also need whatever gauges you want installed into it.

Originally Posted by enkei2k

With a ~1k budget, what brand/models would you recommend for a sound system?

- double din head unit
- 6.5" component speakers with tweeters
- amp
- 10" subwoofer
- wiring kit

I'm at a loss as to what's "good" anymore since I bought JL 10W3 and Alpine MRP-500 from you almost 2 years ago. Are those models still good now or are there newer models?

For the head unit, my only requirements is that it doesn't need GPS since I already have a stand alone Garmin that my girlfriend got me (can't get rid of that!) and possibly HD radio. I was thinking about the Pioneer P3400BH? Yay or nay?

Double DIN: JVC KW-AV60BT
Components: Hybrid Audio Imagine series 6.5's
Amplifier: ARC Audio XDi 805 5-channel
Sub: 10" ARC Audio
Wiring: IXOS

I could do all of that for a package deal of $1000 shipped.

Originally Posted by mpact1981

I modified the cubby in my 350z with some pressboard type of material and a simple sticker overlay. the cubby had a motorized door and the gears got stuck and i broke the door completely off trying to open it (black craft board covering hole where cubby use to open and slide into dash for now)... well i have a new cubby and rather than switching my setup over I'd like to try your method to get a more stock look...

so my question is: can you give me the product info for the plastic and bonding/adhesive you use?

also, are you able to sand the adhesive on the side being displayed when it dries? or do you fit/bond it so no adhesive comes through to the display side, like i did on mine?

I'm actually just finishing up a 350z setup. So once I finish I can post some pictures that will help you understand how I do it. in the meantime I use Norton Speed Grip for the bonding of plastics. It can be sanded, painted etc.

Originally Posted by s14fbs

what alarm system do you suggest for my s13 and also what actuators would u suggest for keyless entry on non power doors

What features do you want for the alarm? Remote start, 1-way or 2-way, short range, long range etc?

For actuators I use/sell the high output DEI units.

[s14fbs]

Originally Posted by Broadfield

What features do you want for the alarm? Remote start, 1-way or 2-way, short range, long range etc?

For actuators I use/sell the high output DEI units.

nothing special just a nice basic alarm with keyless entry
i more want it for keyless entry
i was looking at the viper 350 1 way system

[future]

Mr Toby, when will we actually get a update in your thread and not all of this bs talking we keep getting? Lol

[exitspeed]

How are daaaaa bears looking?

[enkei2k]

Why are there different sized head units?

IE: The JVC you recommended was 6.1", but there are a few double dins that are 5.8", 7", 8" etc.

Why do you recommend the JVC over a Pioneer, Kenwood, Alpine, or other brand?

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by s14fbs

nothing special just a nice basic alarm with keyless entry
i more want it for keyless entry
i was looking at the viper 350 1 way system

Sounds like you already found what you want

Originally Posted by future

Mr Toby, when will we actually get a update in your thread and not all of this bs talking we keep getting? Lol

Even with my wealth of knowledge, I don't even have the answer to that question I do have some small updates, but I usually only like to post if it's something substantial. I have the engine harness done, all of the XRP hoses are finished including the power steering ones. I finally found a set of black fuel rails that aren't some crap off Ebay. Lucky me, Katech recently released their FAST fuel rails... which are black. I'm hoping to put a $1000 deposit on a TR6060 that Jeff mentioned. Just waiting to hear back from Jeff to see if his guy will take a deposit to hold it for me. I will probably post a small update soon just to please the masses.

Originally Posted by exitspeed

How are daaaaa bears looking?

Offense should be a nice upgrade with Marshall and the rookie receiver Alshon Jeffries(who has been phenomenal in training camp and the first two preseason games). He is basically another big, tall receiver like Marshall. The first team offense did not play the first preseason game for some reason... no Cutler, no Forte and no Marshall. They did start the second preseason and looked amazing though. I'm actually worried about the defense though. The safety position is always a concern for the Bears and the CB position is just average. Peppers, Urlacher, Tillman and Briggs are all getting old... even though they all four were Pro Bowlers last year. I'm sure it will be an interesting season as usual!

Originally Posted by enkei2k

Why are there different sized head units?

IE: The JVC you recommended was 6.1", but there are a few double dins that are 5.8", 7", 8" etc.

Just like wheels, it depends on what size you want and how much you want to spend. The 8" Alpine is an oversized... so it will not simply fit in a double DIN opening. Custom work would need to be performed on most vehicles.

Otherwise the size differences are dependent on how many buttons/knobs you want on the face of the unit. You can't fit a volume knob on a unit with a 7" screen. Volume knobs are more important to consumers than the extra inch of screen.

Originally Posted by enkei2k

Why do you recommend the JVC over a Pioneer, Kenwood, Alpine, or other brand?

I recommended the JVC because Alpine does not fit into your budget. If your budget was $1500 then I would recommend the Alpine hands down.

For the life of me I can't figure out why people like Pioneer so much. I have been doing this for longer than a lot of members on here have been alive... and Pioneer has always had horrible user interfaces. Kenwood is barely any better. I have done installs on over 25,000 vehicles and I still struggle to find particular settings in Kenwoods and Pioneers.... that's not right.

[s14fbs]

last thing would i need the 2 wire or 5 wire dei door actuator to just use for keyless entry paired with the viper system ?

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by s14fbs

last thing would i need the 2 wire or 5 wire dei door actuator to just use for keyless entry paired with the viper system ?

I would send you exactly what you need, which are the 2 wire.

[hpipro4]

what sound system do you have on your s13?

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by hpipro4

what sound system do you have on your s13?

Well nothing at the moment... it's completely gutted I did have a very basic setup... an Alpine iXA-404, Hybrid Audio Clarus 6.5" components and an Alpine PDX 4.150 bridged down to 300 watts RMS x 2.

Here are the top three reasons why I don't really have much audio in my cars:

1. I install car audio 6 days/week sometimes 7 days/week for the last 20 years. I have done installations in over 25,000 vehicles. Needless to say I generally don't want to touch car audio after work... not even in my own vehicle.
2. Monetarily I don't place much importance on it. I would rather spend the money on other things.
3. If I do it, it's got to be all out. So it won't be cheap even at my pricing.... which brings us back to #2.

Hell, I still have the stock system in my Acura TL.

[240KA]

hey toby
curious to see if you have any ideas on how to tackle this. the way the s14 shift boot attaches is kind of ridiculous and naturally results in broken pieces, which leads to a saggy/unattached boot. here is the bottom -

the leather boot is essentially sandwiched between the plastic trim and the ring you see on the bottom. i've broken the little pieces that allow all three pieces to snap into each other. thought i'd check and see if you had any nifty ideas on how to tackle it without having to spend $80 on a new one. i'm thinking probably a little glue and some sticky velcro pieces :P

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by 240KA

hey toby
curious to see if you have any ideas on how to tackle this. the way the s14 shift boot attaches is kind of ridiculous and naturally results in broken pieces, which leads to a saggy/unattached boot.

the leather boot is essentially sandwiched between the plastic trim and the ring you see on the bottom. i've broken the little pieces that allow all three pieces to snap into each other. thought i'd check and see if you had any nifty ideas on how to tackle it without having to spend $80 on a new one. i'm thinking probably a little glue and some sticky velcro pieces :P

I need to see what yours looks like.

[hpipro4]

Originally Posted by Broadfield

Well nothing at the moment... it's completely gutted I did have a very basic setup... an Alpine iXA-404, Hybrid Audio Clarus 6.5" components and an Alpine PDX 4.150 bridged down to 300 watts RMS x 2.

Here are the top three reasons why I don't really have much audio in my cars:

1. I install car audio 6 days/week sometimes 7 days/week for the last 20 years. I have done installations in over 25,000 vehicles. Needless to say I generally don't want to touch car audio after work... not even in my own vehicle.
2. Monetarily I don't place much importance on it. I would rather spend the money on other things.
3. If I do it, it's got to be all out. So it won't be cheap even at my pricing.... which brings us back to #2.

Hell, I still have the stock system in my Acura TL.

how did you manage to put 6.5? were they behind door panels with custom mountings? ive been thinking about hybrids for my s13 but unsure which one to get?

[scag]

installing a viper 5904, im doing a complete silent install, no siren, no light flash, nothing except the 2 way remote notifying me of the status along with smart start gps to track it online if it were to be stolen. i've got everything setup good except for when the alarm is set off, the alarm "brain" itself is clicking over and over, which i assume to be for the light flash, i dont want a would be thief to able to hear this clicking and know there is an alarm and be able to locate the module, its not in a traditional location. i removed the on board fuse and it still clicks. i've gone over the install manuals and cannot find what i need to disable it. im not afraid to open the module myself and remove the relay, but would prefer to not have to. is there a way to disable the clicking/relay?

[wtb24o]

Originally Posted by hpipro4

how did you manage to put 6.5? were they behind door panels with custom mountings? ive been thinking about hybrids for my s13 but unsure which one to get?

(Not my pic)

An adapter plate like this, I made one out of wood using a stencil I found online awhile back.. I'm sure you'd be able to find it with a bit of Googling.
Just have to make sure your speaker isn't too deep, otherwise the window will hit it when rolled down.

[NNOCENT]

If I were to draw up a simple schematic of my s13 empty engine bay firewall with all hole locations, would you be willing to 'x' out in red the ones I will be able to weld closed & fill for swapping in an LSX? This vehicle will be more show than track, so i'm spending more time tidying up the bay even though it will be tubbed.

Shoot me a PM if necessary!

Thanks,

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by hpipro4

how did you manage to put 6.5? were they behind door panels with custom mountings? ive been thinking about hybrids for my s13 but unsure which one to get?

You can simply trace the OEM plastic housings onto some 1/4" material then, cut it out along with the speaker hole. Don't forget to also mark the mounting holes for the plate.

However, the speakers I have it wasn't that simple. I had to take a 3/4" piece of MDF, slightly cross cut the entire thing at an angle and then grind down the backside of the door card/grill just to fit the Clarus in there. Even a 1/2" adapter wasn't thick enough to allow the magnet to clear the window.

Originally Posted by scag

installing a viper 5904, im doing a complete silent install, no siren, no light flash, nothing except the 2 way remote notifying me of the status along with smart start gps to track it online if it were to be stolen. i've got everything setup good except for when the alarm is set off, the alarm "brain" itself is clicking over and over, which i assume to be for the light flash, i dont want a would be thief to able to hear this clicking and know there is an alarm and be able to locate the module, its not in a traditional location. i removed the on board fuse and it still clicks. i've gone over the install manuals and cannot find what i need to disable it. im not afraid to open the module myself and remove the relay, but would prefer to not have to. is there a way to disable the clicking/relay?

There is not a way to disable the relay other than opening it up and de-soldering it. I'm guessing the relay in question is for the siren. You could also wrap the thing in sound damping mat and then wrap it in sound deadening mat.

Originally Posted by NNOCENT

If I were to draw up a simple schematic of my s13 empty engine bay firewall with all hole locations, would you be willing to 'x' out in red the ones I will be able to weld closed & fill for swapping in an LSX? This vehicle will be more show than track, so i'm spending more time tidying up the bay even though it will be tubbed.

Shoot me a PM if necessary!

Thanks,

I guess, but I would hate to be responsible for telling you to fill a hole and then you need it later. Besides, it's not like your install is going to be exactly like mine. You may choose to reuse certain holes to mount the power steering reservoir, oil filter relocate, surge tank, overflow tank etc. Whereas my reservoir is attached to my aftermarket pump... little things like that. Or the fact that mine is drive-by-wire throttle... so I welded the hole for the throttle cable. I did a brake line tuck so I welded up the holes for that. It should be really simple to figure out what you need and what you don't.