alternate to a nismo thermostat

[Sileighty_85]

Originally Posted by Bigsyke

Wouldnt it be the opposite?

Engine

From stances website on their Oversized W/P Pully
The increase in diameter elminates inertial cavitation which causes inefficient cooling and ultimately overheating. This application is excellent for those high revving track days where maximum cooling is a must. The pulley is designed for use with the stock belt size therefore no modification is needed.

Also OP what type of Rad Cap are you using?

[jackal264]

Originally Posted by Sileighty_85

Engine

From stances website on their Oversized W/P Pully
The increase in diameter elminates inertial cavitation which causes inefficient cooling and ultimately overheating. This application is excellent for those high revving track days where maximum cooling is a must. The pulley is designed for use with the stock belt size therefore no modification is needed.

Also OP what type of Rad Cap are you using?

koyo 1.3 bar

[Ali 556]

OP,

damn son....remove the T-stat and you will be fine..

My S14 @ 45*C track day with NO t-stat....after 3 rounds (auto-X) the temp get up to 190*C..

On a STOCK Rad and 4x e-fans

2 x Pullers
2 x merceds-benz S500 pusher (ALOT of Air's)..



EDIT :

Cooling off @ the parking lot of the Track (check my friend 996 TT)

[articdragon192]

Billion t-stat here. Simply the best. I believe Kuah at SPL Parts can get them. I got mine from there.

And isn't it wrong to run a motor without a thermostat? From my understanding, a motor has to run at a certain temperature range doesn't it?

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by articdragon192

Billion t-stat here. Simply the best. I believe Kuah at SPL Parts can get them. I got mine from there.

And isn't it wrong to run a motor without a thermostat? From my understanding, a motor has to run at a certain temperature range doesn't it?

Yes it takes a long ass time to heat up. Engines wear abnormally when cold.

[jackal264]

Originally Posted by S14DB

Yes it takes a long ass time to heat up. Engines wear abnormally when cold.

i don't daily my car and my fans are on a switch so i can just shut them off to help it warm up faster.

[Def]

You guys need to properly duct your radiator and run a good undertray if you're having such high water temps.

Stock thermostat here and I hit about 190-195 deg F water temps on track running about 15-16 psi. Oil is about 200-210 deg F with a custom oil cooler setup where the stock window washer reservoir is.

[Bigsyke]

^^^ did you keep the jiggle valve on the OE thermostat?

I clipped mine, however it takes about 3 miles, or 9-10 minutes to reach normal opperating temp with the jiggle valve clipped. About 3x longer that with the jiggle valve in. I did not drill the hole out.

Also ive been told otherwise, but I still have a theory that with my 95% water/watterwetter mix, mishimoto thermostat, the radiators chills the water to the point that when the pressurized stream of chilled water goes through the jiggle valve hole, it throws off the thermostats opening point, thus having a longer delay. I have seen the temps run a little higher on the highway after a while. So it seems the cooler water mixing in the thermostat chamber in the head- the thermostat reads a lower temp than whats really in the head.

Anyone else have this issue? or is the watter wetter/water overly too efficient?

[Def]

I'm just using a stock B13 SR20DE thermostat and a Z32 TT radiator cap(1.2 bar), Koyo Radiator (Al) and dual 12" Flex-a-Lites that I don't even run on the track, just the street. I also go for about a 30/70 to 40/60 glycol/water mixture. Nothing special.

Water wetter increases the convection coefficient(supposedly), so you might be just transferring more heat to the water, hence higher water outlet temps. I'd say it's more a function of running a bit rich/lean and generating more heat than needed under cruising.

[oumu]

Originally Posted by Def

You guys need to properly duct your radiator and run a good undertray if you're having such high water temps.

Stock thermostat here and I hit about 190-195 deg F water temps on track running about 15-16 psi. Oil is about 200-210 deg F with a custom oil cooler setup where the stock window washer reservoir is.

Does your setup include ducting and an undertray? Pics?

You never get above 195 deg F while drifting because you don't let it or it just doesn't get that hot? Can you give more details about what "on track" means? Like, is it three laps or half an hour of constant 8000rpm drifting?

What kind of gauge are you using for the temperature reading?

[s13pignose]

I have nismo on ka. Only thing is it takes a while for my temp gauge to reach half after letting it warm up. I mean it gets there..but in the winter seemed like I didn't have much heat coming in the car till I got on the throttle some. Once the temp gauge reached about half I had decent heat, and the less I had to stop I had more than decent. I wonder about my gauge's accuracy though. I could be at half way on the gauge having gone from stop light to stop light. Then once I hit the expressway about a min later..I'm like a 1/4 below half..like it drops quick gradually.

Main thing is I try not to ever get on the car more than 1/2 throttle until gauge reach's half..then I'll do WOT or whatever I feel

[Bigsyke]

why would it take longer to reach normal op temp with a nismo? it should hit the middle mark just as fast as OEM, It has a jiggle valve, there is no opening to let coolant cycle through before 149*f.

[swayray]

Sorry for the typo on our website. Thank you so much for the correction. The nismo thermostat does open at 143.6*F

[Def]

Originally Posted by oumu

Does your setup include ducting and an undertray? Pics?

You never get above 195 deg F while drifting because you don't let it or it just doesn't get that hot? Can you give more details about what "on track" means? Like, is it three laps or half an hour of constant 8000rpm drifting?

What kind of gauge are you using for the temperature reading?

I have the stock undertray for an S13. Fans on or off doesn't matter. Just cut out the "nose" of the pignose bumper for a little more flow around the FMIC.

I don't drift, this is actually on track driving at WOT for 30 min sessions.

The gauge is a Defi Link water temp gauge, so it's easy to check the peak, and I'm also verified it to be accurate to within a few degree F.

[Bigsyke]

All this talk about your "coolant temp" being at normal op temp, however what about the aluminum? Obviously the temps inside the head wont be exactly whats reading on your temp gauge. I personally would like the thermostat to open at a lower rating to give a bigger window on cooling efficiency, esp when you start adding things like a dual core/pass radiator, swirl tank etc. I also believe its important to have the thermo open up when you start upping comression and removing the EGR system while keeping the timing @ 20*. Stock would be fine if you've kept the clutch fan, however most of us have yanked it and having the thermostat open from 150*+ is perfect for head temps IMO to prevent the aluminum from warping on the cast iron when ambient temps are 90*s+ and engine bay temps are nearly 150*+ .

Only issue I see is the CTS triggering a closed/open loop @ registered X *f temp. I just see a lower temp thermostat a better platform to work around.

Daily driving/traffic the thermostat still opens up @ 150*f, however the OE fans wont kick in untill 203*f, which still provides some sort of normal op temp efficiency, however I have the ability to control the what engine temps stabilize at by having a thermo that opens up sooner -via a switch on cooling fan #1's ground.

Also having a 1.3 cap personally is for when water temps inside the head get well over 250*f if your running 50/50. I personally favor the OE 0.9 cap or at most the Z32 cap since its only used for upping the boiling point, ive had way to many issues with a higher than 1.2bar cap or 19lbs, when your keeping the heater core and OE radiator. Ive never had an issue with boiling over with the OE Z32 and even the 0.9bar cap.

[oumu]

Originally Posted by Def

I have the stock undertray for an S13. Fans on or off doesn't matter. Just cut out the "nose" of the pignose bumper for a little more flow around the FMIC.

I don't drift, this is actually on track driving at WOT for 30 min sessions.

The gauge is a Defi Link water temp gauge, so it's easy to check the peak, and I'm also verified it to be accurate to within a few degree F.

I see, my cooling setup is similar but less complete than yours and I drift. My temps could easily reach 100*C (212*F) while drifting if I let them even with the fans on. I assume your setup does better because of the direct constant airflow. I could definitely use some ducting and an oil cooler.