KA-T setup, hows it look?

[1derboy16]

Hey, I'm going to slap a turbo onto my KA and I want you to check out the setup and tell me what you think. I've got a 92 s13. Motor has got about 140,000 miles on it. Here's the thing though. Tell me what you think of the setup and if anything else will be needed. People have told me I should get like a Koyo rad. and stuff but at this point I see no need for one. Is there anything you think I need? Also, do you think I will need to do anything to the motor itself like internally or replace anything before the swap as in like a water pump, head gasket or something since so far I'm just gonna leave it as is. Tell me what you think.
Thanks

BTW: my goals are 310whp and to run 12's....possible?

Turbonetics .50 trim T3/T04E turbo (.63)
KA24DE turbo manifold
JGS400 Wastegate
KA24(D)E downpipe and wg pipe set
T3 mounting studs
JGS KA24E oil feed & return line kit
Turbo cement
EGR Plug
Power Steering Resivore Relocation Kit
Exhaust wrap and clamps for downpipe
Walbro 255 LPH Fuel Pump
Front Mount Intercooler
Custom intercooler piping
Greddy Type RS BOV
MR down pipe
ACT clutch
Turbo wrap
Apexi intake
Deastchwerks 555cc injectors
Z32 MAFS
Nismo fuel pressure regulator
Nismo FPR adapter
Enthalpy ECU tune
Safc 2
Boost gauge
3" exhaust
Apexi AVC-R Boost controller
AEM wideband
Turbo timer (Maybe)

[Markovich]

arp head studs
lower compression pistons or thick metal headgasket
koyo rad.
turbo timer
why have a wideband and afc and an ecu tune?

[1derboy16]

Originally Posted by Markovich

arp head studs
lower compression pistons or thick metal headgasket
koyo rad.
turbo timer
why have a wideband and afc and an ecu tune?

Either or for the ecu or afc.

so you think these are necessary?
arp head studs
lower compression pistons or thick metal head gasket
koyo rad.

Anyone else on these 3 items.
I'll get the rad. and arp studs but between the 2 I'll get the head gasket since correct me if I'm wrong but wont the stock motor take 350hp safely? So I should be OK with out the pistons

[Neejay]

Originally Posted by Markovich

arp head studs
lower compression pistons or thick metal headgasket
koyo rad.
turbo timer
why have a wideband and afc and an ecu tune?

hmm..couldn't he use the afc to fine tune the ecu? Not 100% sure, just curious...I thought I read that you could do that somewhere.

Everything else (based on my research) looks good + the stuff Markovich mentioned. Don't forget water temp guage and oil pressure gauges. Also, for 300+ hp, I would upgrade the radiator too.

I would replace/rebuild as much as you have the means to do. I won't be replacing/rebuilding anything other than valve seals, timing chain, and oil pump...but this is due to a lack of tools/friends/hookups/money/space.

[1derboy16]

Originally Posted by Neejay

hmm..couldn't he use the afc to fine tune the ecu? Not 100% sure, just curious...I thought I read that you could do that somewhere.

Everything else (based on my research) looks good + the stuff Markovich mentioned. Don't forget water temp guage and oil pressure gauges. Also, for 300+ hp, I would upgrade the radiator too.

I would replace/rebuild as much as you have the means to do. I won't be replacing/rebuilding anything other than valve seals, timing chain, and oil pump...but this is due to a lack of tools/friends/hookups/money/space.

yea, I was thinking of using the afc with the tune but I hear it rly pushes the edge of fuel safety.
um, just so I understand this right. Your saying I should replace parts but not rebuild right? cuz I dont want to rebuild the motor, I dont really have the money for it. I'll just trying to get as much as I can out of the stock motor, SAFETY. Since I've heard 350 is the max, I think 310 is the ideal number, 300 is fine with me too. I know about the gauges to, I just haven't exactly decided on the ones i'm getting. But so your saying this is what I should replace? valve seals, timing chain, and oil pump? cuz I dont want to, and at this point cant get into internals.

[Neejay]

Originally Posted by 1derboy16

yea, I was thinking of using the afc with the tune but I hear it rly pushes the edge of fuel safety.
um, just so I understand this right. Your saying I should replace parts but not rebuild right? cuz I dont want to rebuild the motor, I dont really have the money for it. I'll just trying to get as much as I can out of the stock motor, SAFETY. Since I've heard 350 is the max, I think 310 is the ideal number, 300 is fine with me too. I know about the gauges to, I just haven't exactly decided on the ones i'm getting. But so your saying this is what I should replace? valve seals, timing chain, and oil pump? cuz I dont want to, and at this point cant get into internals.

Well, Im saying to replace/rebuild as much as you can/want to. If you don't want to rebuild/replace anything, don't.

I'm not rebuilding either. But as my motor stands now, I NEED to replace the valve seals and timing chain. The oil pump is a "just incase" type deal + its a 280z high pressure oil pump.

[1derboy16]

Thanks ^^^^

so do you think if I do the ARP head studs, head gasket and all I can run like 300-310 hp safety? like if I run it hard once and awhile I dont want anything happening.
Also what kinda head gasket do you guys have in mind? like size and all? I'm just thinking cometic off the top of my head.

[1derboy16]

Originally Posted by 1derboy16

Thanks ^^^^

so do you think if I do the ARP head studs, head gasket and all I can run like 300-310 hp safety? like if I run it hard once and awhile I dont want anything happening.
Also what kinda head gasket do you guys have in mind? like size and all? I'm just thinking cometic off the top of my head.

you think I can do this ^^^ safety

also, anyone with head gasket ideas? like size or brand. I was thinking cometic.

[sccrstar011]

"Average: 300 rwhp to 350 rwhp, you have to start to expect a little more lag. This is about the perfect "street car" limit. No race gas, just good honest street car fun that is fully capable of bring home a 12 second timeslip on a good run.

Turbo Manifold
T3/T04E .50 Trim compressor, .60 trim compressor housing / Stg 3 (aka TA31) turbine wheel, .48 to .63 A/R exhaust housing. Internal wastegate optional but not recommended.
Downpipe can still be 2.5", but this is as far as I would want to push that.
Front Mount Intercooler (FMIC) It's time to upgrade to a larger front mount as the larger will push more air than the smaller sidemount can cool.

Fuel Control
550cc Injectors
SAFC2 to control your fuel injectors, along with the stock ecu.
MSD BTM At this stage I would be running the BTM to control timing retard.
Reflashed ECU-This can be a DIY thing with Megasquirt Tuning or a JWT.
Z32 Maf is required, as the stock Maf stops being able to read at around 260 rwhp.
Wideband O2 Sensor should be installed for tuning.

Block Internals
This is where I would start to consider it necessary to replace you pistons."

Found this on ka-t.org it is an amazing site for turbo ka's. This is the direct link to the article I got that from http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6263

[1derboy16]

what would you guys think of the AMS basic rebuild kit. This is what it includes.

Arias STOCK BORE Pistons with 8.8:1 Compression Ratio
AMS/Turbo240 Sportsman Series Connecting Rods
Clevite Main and Rod Bearings
Fel-pro Full Engine Gasket Set

Whats do you think.
what kinda number do you think i'll be able to squeeze out with that kit?

[NemeGuero]

You don't need to rebuild your engine but make sure its healthy. Compression check.. new water pump.. etc..

If you don't have the money for a rebuild.. how do you have the money for a turbo kit? It isn't cheap, and if you dont' have enough money now.. you will NOT have a good turbo setup. Its not cheap.. nor easy.

With a tuned ECU.. using an AFC is NOT a bad idea..

the tunes are normally conservative or your engine isn't perfectly ideal or something along those lines, and they will give you not quite perfect ratios..

AFC can fix that.

You don't need the head studs.

If you're tracking the car.. upgrade your cooling. Koyo or Griffen radiators are the shit.. e-Fans.

you don't need to swap pistons... I'd recommend head gasket but its not necessary either.

and turbo timer isn't necessary

[ms!3]

^^^you may be right but id still say upgrade internals just to be safe. ive seen alot of ka-ts go because of stock internals. you might be able to get away with a blown motor with proper tuning tho. but if i were you id just go ahead and upgrade internals.

[NemeGuero]

See, but he's budgeting..

Of course he's doing it wrong, but he'll figure that out.

[xcusememisswyn]

cory from the www.ka-t.org rides section runs 12's and has over 400 hp with stock internals... its all about tuning and daily mantainance... but you have to be damned good at tuning to do it!

[1derboy16]

lol o,thanks ^^^

I'm probably going to just rebuild but I will have to wait longer to get some more money.

[NemeGuero]

if his KA is nearly dead... no amount of tuning will protect it from 310whp