s14 subframe in s13

[ixfxi]

bunch of stupid idiots in this thread


yes, you need the fucking offset bushings. i dont know how fuck-face above even suggested stretching the fuck out of the OE bushing to slip it onto the subframe. thats like shoving a fist in a womans vagina and leaving it there, 24-7.


you will need...................................
offset bushings (with shims)
lower control arms
long control (toe?) arm (which has proper width, none of that spacer nonsense)
spindles
diff cover

remember that you will need bushings for practically everything since its all old and shot. this means control arms, spindles, and diff bushings.

also, dont waste time burning bushings like _every_fucking_idiot_ suggests, as its a complete waste of time (unless you like blowing black bogies out your nose). drill the majority of rubber out of the bushing and use a recip-saw cutting inwards towards the subframe (as opposed to the thin outer areas).

i also suggest avoiding poly urethane nonsense, unless you want to spend a lifetime under your car removing the bushings, re-greasing them, and re-installing them. i have yet to see ANYONE make a clean setup w/ grease fittings, its all sloppy joe ghetto style.

so bushing alternatives are to get nismo (if you can find them) or get raped financially buying spherical bearings which are harsh and not really ideal for a street car, plus they are not designed to last tens of thousands of miles.

remember, people on this forum are STUPID. use your common sense.

[josephin510]

Originally Posted by ixfxi

bunch of stupid idiots in this thread


yes, you need the fucking offset bushings. i dont know how fuck-face above even suggested stretching the fuck out of the OE bushing to slip it onto the subframe. thats like shoving a fist in a womans vagina and leaving it there, 24-7.


you will need...................................
offset bushings (with shims)
lower control arms
long control (toe?) arm (which has proper width, none of that spacer nonsense)
spindles
diff cover

remember that you will need bushings for practically everything since its all old and shot. this means control arms, spindles, and diff bushings.

also, dont waste time burning bushings like _every_fucking_idiot_ suggests, as its a complete waste of time (unless you like blowing black bogies out your nose). drill the majority of rubber out of the bushing and use a recip-saw cutting inwards towards the subframe (as opposed to the thin outer areas).

i also suggest avoiding poly urethane nonsense, unless you want to spend a lifetime under your car removing the bushings, re-greasing them, and re-installing them. i have yet to see ANYONE make a clean setup w/ grease fittings, its all sloppy joe ghetto style.

so bushing alternatives are to get nismo (if you can find them) or get raped financially buying spherical bearings which are harsh and not really ideal for a street car, plus they are not designed to last tens of thousands of miles.

remember, people on this forum are STUPID. use your common sense.

In my years of being outside my cave I found that common sense isn't so common.

[ranger240]

Originally Posted by josephin510

In my years of being outside my cave I found that common sense isn't so common.

read my sig.

[e1_griego]

Originally Posted by ixfxi

bunch of stupid idiots in this thread


yes, you need the fucking offset bushings. i dont know how fuck-face above even suggested stretching the fuck out of the OE bushing to slip it onto the subframe. thats like shoving a fist in a womans vagina and leaving it there, 24-7.


you will need...................................
offset bushings (with shims)
lower control arms
long control (toe?) arm (which has proper width, none of that spacer nonsense)
spindles
diff cover

remember that you will need bushings for practically everything since its all old and shot. this means control arms, spindles, and diff bushings.

also, dont waste time burning bushings like _every_fucking_idiot_ suggests, as its a complete waste of time (unless you like blowing black bogies out your nose). drill the majority of rubber out of the bushing and use a recip-saw cutting inwards towards the subframe (as opposed to the thin outer areas).

i also suggest avoiding poly urethane nonsense, unless you want to spend a lifetime under your car removing the bushings, re-greasing them, and re-installing them. i have yet to see ANYONE make a clean setup w/ grease fittings, its all sloppy joe ghetto style.

so bushing alternatives are to get nismo (if you can find them) or get raped financially buying spherical bearings which are harsh and not really ideal for a street car, plus they are not designed to last tens of thousands of miles.

remember, people on this forum are STUPID. use your common sense.

Not to argue, but the toe arms are the same length, it's just the mounting area that's a different width. I wasn't saying to run a spacer, just recommending finding the RIGHT conical spacer (SPL use to include both sets with their toe arms).

s13 toe arm in s14 subframe:


Also, most of the people stretching out the bushings to fit are trying to conform to Street Mod autox rules which explicitly prohibit offset bushings. It's not the right way to do it, but that's usually the impetus.


The taper is different between rear s13 and s14 ball joints, so you will need to get s14 spindles or take the opportunity to run z32 aluminum uprights (but those will necessitate changing your lower shock mount to z32 fork style). The length between s13 and s14 rlcas is the same, it's just the bushing width that is different. The RLCA inner bushings are 40 mm wide on S13/Z32, 50mm on S14s.

Please go read: http://nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=1512

[ixfxi]

Originally Posted by e1_griego

Not to argue, but the toe arms are the same length, it's just the mounting area that's a different width.

I tip my hat off to you sir. Not even going to argue because you are indeed correct. My post was just saying "stock for stock." For an OEM bushing to work properly, it needs to be torqued onto the vehicle when laden. Adding washers and doing bullshit like that obviously negates the point of doing all this work, besides being ghetto.

[NismoPlsr]

Originally Posted by e1_griego

The taper is different between rear s13 and s14 ball joints, so you will need to get s14 spindles or take the opportunity to run z32 aluminum uprights (but those will necessitate changing your lower shock mount to z32 fork style). The length between s13 and s14 rlcas is the same, it's just the bushing width that is different. The RLCA inner bushings are 40 mm wide on S13/Z32, 50mm on S14s.

The ball joint taper is the same in the rear for s13 and s14. It is the press fit diameter of ball joint to control arm that is different. So any upright will work with any LCA.

[Bubba]

Originally Posted by ixfxi

bunch of stupid idiots in this thread


yes, you need the fucking offset bushings.

Originally Posted by e1_griego

Also, most of the people stretching out the bushings to fit are trying to conform to Street Mod autox rules which explicitly prohibit offset bushings.
Please go read: S-14 subframe into S-13 discussion... - Nissan Road Racing Forums

Since fuck-face over there thinks he is sooo fucking correct about the issue...

I plan to RACE my car... not hardpark the shit out of it and say "yeah I have an S13 with all S14 suspension because I'm MadJDMTyte yo!"

I have a set of rules to comply with and this mod has been done by more than a few other SM classed 240sx's and run for quite some time successfully WITHOUT offset bushings. Proof that this mod can indeed be safely completed WITHOUT the offset bushings.

Thanks for the sweet words though. I almost blushed.