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Old 01-08-2015, 01:14 PM   #1111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e1_griego View Post
What size/brand tire f/r?

Roll center correction?

Front bar?
I only have bumpsteer correction? the SPL outer tie rods.
245/40/17 RS3
Which front bar are you referring to?
I have stock s13 front sway bar and a front strut bar.

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Originally Posted by slider2828 View Post
It does a little, but what diff and alignment settings do you have?
S15 HLSD.

-3 camber
8 caster
0 toe

-2 camber
1/16th toe in

Coilovers, Zeal Function D.
out of 6 clicks I have 3 in the front and 1 in the rear, if i were to raise the stiffness in the rear i would over steer.
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Old 01-08-2015, 01:33 PM   #1112
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You can try to remove the toe in, in the rear and see if that helps before removing the front bar. Also you have a huge rear wing.... you can also try to remove that....

Rear wing without correct sized splitter isn't going to help either
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Old 01-08-2015, 01:34 PM   #1113
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When does the car understeer? Turn-in? Mid corner?
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Old 01-08-2015, 02:28 PM   #1114
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You are running the car way too low for no roll center correction up front. That would definitely help your understeer issue some.

Removing the front strut bar isn't going to do much but reduce the responsiveness of the front end, and negatively affect your camber slightly under load (both not good things).
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Old 01-08-2015, 02:49 PM   #1115
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Seems like you should have a big front bar, too.

Well, the rest of us do and the cars seem to work fine.

At some point you might just be overdriving the front, too. But my car doesn't seem pushy and I run similar tire and alignment setup, but I have a Progress front bar on full stiff and I have roll center corrected spindles.
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Old 01-08-2015, 10:28 PM   #1116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slider2828 View Post
You can try to remove the toe in, in the rear and see if that helps before removing the front bar. Also you have a huge rear wing.... you can also try to remove that....

Rear wing without correct sized splitter isn't going to help either
I should get a splitter made since i just bought a DD.
But when im at the event ill remove it and see if i feel any differences.

Quote:
Originally Posted by e1_griego View Post
When does the car understeer? Turn-in? Mid corner?
Before the turn?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Def View Post
You are running the car way too low for no roll center correction up front. That would definitely help your understeer issue some.

Removing the front strut bar isn't going to do much but reduce the responsiveness of the front end, and negatively affect your camber slightly under load (both not good things).
I've asked my alignment guys to raise it higher, but in their opinion raising it higher may decrease performance.
Or it may be that im going in too hot and not taking the right lines.
But all noted. Thanks guys.
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OCD isn't so bad just means you'll spend more money then most people, but you'll have a quality car not a POS put together with POS parts.
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Old 01-08-2015, 10:38 PM   #1117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icantdrift View Post
I assume you're referring to the rear only, in which case you're correct about running 0 camber. I run -1.8 degrees in the rear with the 305's and get pretty damn even heat distribution through the tread.
yes for the rears i am completely rebuilding my car for function i was in the hellaflush seen for awhile my last set up were 18x9.5 -3 225/35/18 18x11.5 -22 275/35/18 on a 20/50mm widebody. Now i am just reading around on what the best set up for track use is on a 20/50mm widebody. Came to the conclusion on 18x9 +16 245/35/18 and 18x10.5 +22 285/30/18
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Old 01-11-2015, 09:54 AM   #1118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hOngsterr View Post


I've asked my alignment guys to raise it higher, but in their opinion raising it higher may decrease performance.
Or it may be that im going in too hot and not taking the right lines.
But all noted. Thanks guys.
A splitter will help, but if your mechanical grip is poor, you're still fighting that issue with aero downforce and drag.

I doubt your alignment guys really know much about suspension dynamics/kinematics.


I can't comment on corner entry, but my experience with most people with "some" track experience is that they are no where near the limit. And sometimes they think there is understeer when the car is handling just fine. But I can say from experience that a very low S-chassis with no roll center adjustment handles poorly. Correcting the front roll center completely transforms how the car handles, particularly on corner entry and mid corner(steady state cornering).
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Old 01-12-2015, 01:25 PM   #1119
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Hey Def, in terms of Hongsterr's problem, couldn't spring rates also make a huge difference?

When I was doing some amateur motorcycling, weight transfer of the vehicle makes a huge difference in how the vehicle reacts.

What do you think?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Def View Post
A splitter will help, but if your mechanical grip is poor, you're still fighting that issue with aero downforce and drag.

I doubt your alignment guys really know much about suspension dynamics/kinematics.


I can't comment on corner entry, but my experience with most people with "some" track experience is that they are no where near the limit. And sometimes they think there is understeer when the car is handling just fine. But I can say from experience that a very low S-chassis with no roll center adjustment handles poorly. Correcting the front roll center completely transforms how the car handles, particularly on corner entry and mid corner(steady state cornering).
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Old 01-12-2015, 04:49 PM   #1120
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its always tough finding that right set up where to combne suspension height/stiffness/chassis rigidity / wheel + tire combo. It could even be the entry speed, track temp. I think it depends on where/when the car is pushing for you to get solid advice from someone. Not to beat a dead horse but balance is the car is gonna be key. Also a tunable rear diff would help. Btw do you have a roll cage?

Good luck
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Old 01-12-2015, 05:24 PM   #1121
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Quote:
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Hey Def, in terms of Hongsterr's problem, couldn't spring rates also make a huge difference?

When I was doing some amateur motorcycling, weight transfer of the vehicle makes a huge difference in how the vehicle reacts.

What do you think?
It could, but the RC at the ride height is a bigger problem than your spring rate being 10-30% off optimal. We run high spring rates up front anyway because our front geometry and camber gain sucks.
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Old 01-14-2015, 03:07 PM   #1122
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What tire sizes is everyone running? 255/40/17 all around is what i'm leaning towards

also, can anyone recommend some decent 17" track wheels under the 1000$ mark?
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Old 01-14-2015, 04:50 PM   #1123
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Depends how much power and setup of the car, but I am running 245 265. Probably going to go 265 285 or 295.

Track wheels rpf01 17x9 and 18x10 is what I think. Which all 4 should be a little under 1g.
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Old 01-14-2015, 08:55 PM   #1124
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definitely RPF1
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Old 01-15-2015, 09:08 AM   #1125
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list of events you gents are planning on attending this year??
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Old 01-15-2015, 12:38 PM   #1126
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Unfortunately car is in my garage getting upgraded... Hoping Laguna EOY
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Old 01-20-2015, 12:57 PM   #1127
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Old 01-22-2015, 10:13 AM   #1128
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Quote:
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What tire sizes is everyone running? 255/40/17 all around is what i'm leaning towards

also, can anyone recommend some decent 17" track wheels under the 1000$ mark?
I have 17x9.5 + 18 rpf1's on all 4 corners. 255/40/17s

I havent been able to actually get any track time with them yet but they seem to fit well and are nice and light.
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Old 01-22-2015, 10:27 AM   #1129
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255s for me.



edit: 17x9 +22 in front, 17x9.5 +38 in back. S14 subframe so effectively +33 in back.
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Old 01-22-2015, 10:29 AM   #1130
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RPF1s for sure. I am currently stepping away from Work XD9s because they are so heavy, and I thought 3 years ago that running 18x10 rear and 17x9.5 front would be cool.

DEFINITELY get 17x9.5 all around, and the same tires. Learn from my mistake.

For what its worth, I plan to run 17x9.5 +18 RPF1 with a 255/40, and you'll definitely have trouble fitting this on stock fenders. I pulled my metal ones to hell and back, and it still BARELY fit. I have 40mm fenders now and it fits much better.
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Old 01-22-2015, 10:37 AM   #1131
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So you were running 17x9.5 +35 before with the 255 on the stock fender? Or the +15 and it took some serious rolling to make it work?
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Old 01-22-2015, 11:32 AM   #1132
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Don't go with the 17x9.5 +18 rpf1. It's too wide and offset too low for stock body. I would go with a 17x9 +22 or offset close to it so it doesn't rub on the coilover.

I run 17x9+22 all around with a 255/40/17 and it clears with a roll and a slight pull.

Before that I was running a 17x9.5 +18 rpf-1 with 235/40/17 and it barely fit. With current pull I could maybe run a 245 with the 17x9.5 setup.
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Old 01-22-2015, 11:40 AM   #1133
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I have 16x8 +15 rear +5 front RPF1's that are going to sport 245 RA1's for 2015.
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Old 01-22-2015, 11:52 AM   #1134
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Don't go with the 17x9.5 +18 rpf1. It's too wide and offset too low for stock body. I would go with a 17x9 +22 or offset close to it so it doesn't rub on the coilover.

I run 17x9+22 all around with a 255/40/17 and it clears with a roll and a slight pull.

Before that I was running a 17x9.5 +18 rpf-1 with 235/40/17 and it barely fit. With current pull I could maybe run a 245 with the 17x9.5 setup.
I ran 17x9.5 +18 for years on my S13. 235/40 in front at 255/40 in rear.
Front fenders hammered flat, rears rolled and pulled just slightly. Camber was 3* front and 2* rear.

It's not entirely out of the question or needing a huge amount of work to fit.

The same wheels are currently on my S14, running 245/40 and 255/40, camber at 3* front 1* rear.



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Old 01-29-2015, 12:19 PM   #1135
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Old 01-30-2015, 01:11 PM   #1136
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Quote:
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It could, but the RC at the ride height is a bigger problem than your spring rate being 10-30% off optimal. We run high spring rates up front anyway because our front geometry and camber gain sucks.
What spring rates are you guys running, I know every set up is different but I'm just curious at the range.





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OCD isn't so bad just means you'll spend more money then most people, but you'll have a quality car not a POS put together with POS parts.
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Old 01-30-2015, 01:45 PM   #1137
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Did you lower the back? looks 100x better.

I run 550/400# in my coupe.
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Old 01-31-2015, 01:55 AM   #1138
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Quote:
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Did you lower the back? looks 100x better.

I run 550/400# in my coupe.

what i noticed was my driver side front was way too low, check out my collar got loose and basically lowered itself, so i raised the front a bit and the rear i left alone...

sorry im not sure about the numbers you posted lol
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OCD isn't so bad just means you'll spend more money then most people, but you'll have a quality car not a POS put together with POS parts.
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Old 01-31-2015, 08:19 AM   #1139
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I'll translate to fanboi


550lb spring = ~10k.

400lb spring = ~7k.
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Old 01-31-2015, 04:20 PM   #1140
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I'll translate to fanboi


550lb spring = ~10k.

400lb spring = ~7k.
haha thanks.
totally slipped my mind when I asked about spring rates.
I was planning to upgrade to 10k/8k.
Right now I'm at 9k/6k
but first I need to rebuild my coils....
Been since 2011 from the last rebuild.
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Originally Posted by jspecusa View Post
OCD isn't so bad just means you'll spend more money then most people, but you'll have a quality car not a POS put together with POS parts.
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