Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[David48]

Good single cams are worth no more than 100. A good tranny is easily worth around 100

[e1_griego]

Not around here.

[juhd]

one of my studs on my rear wheel came loose so that means i cant take of my wheel. When trying to take off the lug nut it just spins with the stud. I searched and found that people used a dremel or an impact wrench or even welding the back but i wanna know if theres any other way to get it off.

[4g240]

Actually tacking it with a welder seems like a good idea, once the lug nut is off break the tack with either a chisel or grinder then replace the stud. ( this would be a good excuse for arp studs if you do any sort of auto sport with your car )

[Grocery Cart]

An alternator can't cause a car to idle rough and slowly die right? As in, if the car starts and the alternator belt is loose, the car won't slowly idle worse until it dies, it would run off the battery wouldn't it? Given the battery is known good.


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[Tempo]

Originally Posted by Tempo

General insurance question:
I have full coverage insurance and my neighbor f**ked up my car while I was parked. .

Long story short they're most likely going to total my car tomorrow my claims adjuster(has a s13) said they're going to base a price for my car from cars on autotrader, the only one on there is bone stock auto for 8k.

My question is how much would they be paying me to total my car because im doubtful ill be getting anything near that much.


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bamp, 1996 S14 5 speed - clean title as of now. let me know guys !

[GeneStarWindGSW]

Is a subframe from a 97-01 Q45 similar/identical to a s14 subframe? I was comparing photos of each one and they look pretty idenitical except for two exhaust hangers on each side of the subframe.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by Tempo

General insurance question:
I have full coverage insurance and my neighbor f**ked up my car while I was parked. .

Long story short they're most likely going to total my car tomorrow my claims adjuster(has a s13) said they're going to base a price for my car from cars on autotrader, the only one on there is bone stock auto for 8k.

My question is how much would they be paying me to total my car.


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I have been through this twice in less than a year...I can be considered a subject matter expert

The first thing you need to do is look really hard at YOUR car and what it was. IF you had upgraded ecu, new brakes, new suspension, etc, look nationwide for cars that are prepped like yours for sale in Modified cars, and autotrader. This will tell you what your car is worth in the lowest amount to the highest amount. Get ALL those figures, and find the average.

OR you can take essentially 3500 for a very clean S13, 4500 for a very clean 95 S14, 5500 for a very clean 96 S14, and 6500 for a very clean low mileage 97 - 98, then take the total value of each new part you added at cost, then subtract 60%, and add that figure to the value of the car. These two numbers will give you a pretty close estimate to what you should get, IF, your insurance guy is telling you the truth and not blowing smoke up your ass.


Experience: 1996 zenki, new windshield, new brakes, new stereo, ss exhaust, only needed paint, valued by Nissan Used Car Manager at 'oh I would set it on the lot for 7,000 and take the first 6500 offer'
I got 6300 + 574(tax, License, document fees) AFTER fighting with them, sending a complaint to the insurance board, and going up three managers over the course of 4 months.

1996 zenki, total exterior restoration, new windows and seals, perfect body, new brakes, ss exhaust, intake, ecu, perfect interior... Nissan Used Car Manager firm at $6500, damaged at $4500 car gets repaired not totaled...still fighting because TN has 'comparative fault' which the at fault party is claiming, but strong evidence shows 100% fault on the other party, still fighting after three months to recover cash since insurance company is refusing to pay pother party AND me, FUCK STATE FARM!

[warnner]

Does a welded diff really wear your tires fast? For daily driving

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[DialedLife]

Does anyone know if using resr coil overs with stock tophats is bad for ride quality?

My resr right side has a stock tophat and on bumps it makes a weird rattling noise. And at 55 or above it feels really wobbly.

All the bolts are tight. I'm assuming my welded diff and shitty alignment is making the wobble. But I don't know about the noise.

Any info is appreciated!


Edit: Warner my car is welded and I have a bad alignment. I don't go through rear tires often unless I'm driving hard.

[Tempo]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

I have been through this twice in less than a year...I can be considered a subject matter expert

The first thing you need to do is look really hard at YOUR car and what it was. IF you had upgraded ecu, new brakes, new suspension, etc, look nationwide for cars that are prepped like yours for sale in Modified cars, and autotrader. This will tell you what your car is worth in the lowest amount to the highest amount. Get ALL those figures, and find the average.

OR you can take essentially 3500 for a very clean S13, 4500 for a very clean 95 S14, 5500 for a very clean 96 S14, and 6500 for a very clean low mileage 97 - 98, then take the total value of each new part you added at cost, then subtract 60%, and add that figure to the value of the car. These two numbers will give you a pretty close estimate to what you should get, IF, your insurance guy is telling you the truth and not blowing smoke up your ass.


Experience: 1996 zenki, new windshield, new brakes, new stereo, ss exhaust, only needed paint, valued by Nissan Used Car Manager at 'oh I would set it on the lot for 7,000 and take the first 6500 offer'
I got 6300 + 574(tax, License, document fees) AFTER fighting with them, sending a complaint to the insurance board, and going up three managers over the course of 4 months.

1996 zenki, total exterior restoration, new windows and seals, perfect body, new brakes, ss exhaust, intake, ecu, perfect interior... Nissan Used Car Manager firm at $6500, damaged at $4500 car gets repaired not totaled...still fighting because TN has 'comparative fault' which the at fault party is claiming, but strong evidence shows 100% fault on the other party, still fighting after three months to recover cash since insurance company is refusing to pay pother party AND me, FUCK STATE FARM!

ill use this today when I go into my appointment - wish me luck lol

Originally Posted by warnner

Does a welded diff really wear your tires fast? For daily driving

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Not much to notice, I've been daily driving my s14 with a welded on for well over a year - I can't say tire life will be the same since I drift ever so often but other people I know with welded difs haven't complained.

Cons:
Turning is annoying with the chirps and the car always wants to go straight(moostang status)
Bad for driving in the rain - increase risk of crash
If your rear end isn't built your bushing will become brittle nice and quick from the dif jerking all those rear components(built my rear end 1mo after)

Pros:
Cost efficient instadrift mod
Less maintenance compared to a 1.5/2 way dif

Personally, I'm going to buy a 2 way soon.


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[drftngs14]

Anyone know the size bolt that holds the lower shift boot ring down?

[warnner]

What's better the 300zx or q45 brakes?

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[Kallixtos]

Originally Posted by drftngs14

Anyone know the size bolt that holds the lower shift boot ring down?

8x1.25?

Originally Posted by warnner

What's better the 300zx or q45 brakes?

Define what you mean by better. 300zx will have better braking power but you will need to get wheels to clear them if you don't already have them.

Q45 will be bolt on without having to get different wheels.

This is a good swap guide. http://importnut.net/300zxbrakeswap.htm

Z brakes will cost you a bit more. You can pretty much pick a color q45 you want at the junkyard.

[miffs]

Is anyone running Sonic Motor seats in their s13 that can tell me whether or not they will fit side mounted in my car with Bride low max rails? i currently have a sprint 5 and it is too wide and has to be bottom mounted and sits up so damn high. I'm 5' 9" 180 lbs 34" waist so id like to know if either the p2 or the sp2 will be better for me since im not a 6 foot 130lb lurch like a lot of you seem to be.

[s14j]

what lip is on this kouki???

[jameswouldgo]

Hi all,

I have a 95 240sx SE
I was wondering if I would be able to take out the door lock switch from a master switch (driver side window switch doesn't work on master) and throw it on another switch that doesn't have the door lock option?

This is the switch that I ordered from a dude on this site: It doesn't have the door lock switch but I am wondering if I could throw on the switch from another master that has.

240sx s14 Power Window Main Switch 1995 1998 New 25401 70F10 Base Model | eBay

[BiG MiKE86]

Could someone tell me the bolt size/length for the driveshaft to differential flange for an S13 plzzzzz! been searching and ordered teh bolts from ballerbolts.com only to get shafted =/

[S14TEENZ]

I know this may sound a bit stupid/weird but does anyone know is they offer a wheel adapter conversion from 4x114.3 to 5x100??

[tangerman95]

I just baught a 1995 240sx and it started just fine when i test drove it, but after I bought it I stopped to get gas on the way home and it wouldn't crank up so i dont know if I need a new starter or if its the battery? any help would be great.

[Thedriftbadger]

Originally Posted by S14TEENZ

I know this may sound a bit stupid/weird but does anyone know is they offer a wheel adapter conversion from 4x114.3 to 5x100??

Never seen a 4 to 5 lug adapter. I've seen 5x114.3 to 5x100 though.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by S14TEENZ

I know this may sound a bit stupid/weird but does anyone know is they offer a wheel adapter conversion from 4x114.3 to 5x100??

You can get adapters in a few width's for moving from a Nissan 66.1 ctr hub in 4x114.3 to 5x114.3, but it will cost you the price of a good wheel for all four corners, or ~$400
4 Lug to 5 Lug Adapter : 5 Lug to 4 Lug Adapter : AdapterKings.com

Nissan is 66.1mm Hub Center Bore, and 12mm x 1.25 lugs. Is this cheaper than getting conversion hubs from Enjuku? Nah, about the same

Originally Posted by tangerman95

I just baught a 1995 240sx and it started just fine when i test drove it, but after I bought it I stopped to get gas on the way home and it wouldn't crank up so i dont know if I need a new starter or if its the battery? any help would be great.

Probably the Battery. Get a Red top and don't look back

[wsmiteh]

Hey guys,

I attatched a picture of my engine so you can check out what exactly I'm thinking and hopefully give me some opinions. I have a mostly stock ka with some red shit in the bay (intake, wires, etc). I am currently polishing the intake manifold and valve cover (about half done), and have some dc long tube headers sitting in my room waiting for a blitz nurspec catback to drive in the mail! Now, with the polished intake and valve cover, it would look good to have polished headers as well, but they came with a factory ceramic coating which I don't want to mess with which is a sort of dull silver colour! I am wanting to wrap them but can't decide what would look best - red, or black heat wrap! Anyways, let me know what you think, just looking for a few opinions

Cheers,
Will

[tacobellman_2007]

Originally Posted by Grocery Cart

An alternator can't cause a car to idle rough and slowly die right? As in, if the car starts and the alternator belt is loose, the car won't slowly idle worse until it dies, it would run off the battery wouldn't it? Given the battery is known good.


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Actually an alternator itself CAN cause the car to idle rough and slowly die. That's EXACTLY what happened with my car. As for the alternator belt being loose, I'm not exactly sure...but anyways, if you turn on your headlights, turn on your dome light, or brake while the car is running, does the idle go down? If so, your alternator may be going out. My alternator got to the point where if I tried to start my car, it wouldn't start, or even crank, and relying on a portable jump start barely helped it start up, and I would have to rely on that EVERY time I wanted to start it. Lasted for several days until I decided to change out the alternator. Replaced it with a 1997 Nissan Quest alternator, and my car's been working great ever since. Doesn't even lower its idle when turning on the lights, dome light, etc.

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by DialedLife

Does anyone know if using resr coil overs with stock tophats is bad for ride quality?

My resr right side has a stock tophat and on bumps it makes a weird rattling noise. And at 55 or above it feels really wobbly.

All the bolts are tight. I'm assuming my welded diff and shitty alignment is making the wobble. But I don't know about the noise.

Any info is appreciated!


Edit: Warner my car is welded and I have a bad alignment. I don't go through rear tires often unless I'm driving hard.

If all your suspension, wheel, brake, etc, bolts are tight, I'd guess that noise is the subframe. Unless the tophat rubber was like, gone.

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

You can get adapters in a few width's for moving from a Nissan 66.1 ctr hub in 4x114.3 to 5x114.3, but it will cost you the price of a good wheel for all four corners, or ~$400
4 Lug to 5 Lug Adapter : 5 Lug to 4 Lug Adapter : AdapterKings.com

Nissan is 66.1mm Hub Center Bore, and 12mm x 1.25 lugs. Is this cheaper than getting conversion hubs from Enjuku? Nah, about the same



Probably the Battery. Get a Red top and don't look back

That business doesn't seem to carry our studs. So I assume you'd also have to buy lugs.

[mpapers22]

Anyone know if the lower 17mm nut on s13 coilovers is the same on any other cars? I need one asap and if I could run to the junkyard and pull one off another car it would be great

[Thedriftbadger]

Originally Posted by mpapers22

Anyone know if the lower 17mm nut on s13 coilovers is the same on any other cars? I need one asap and if I could run to the junkyard and pull one off another car it would be great

Did you try bringing the bolt to a hardware store and seeing if they have a nut that fits? That would be easier than going to a junkyard

[mpapers22]

Originally Posted by Thedriftbadger

Did you try bringing the bolt to a hardware store and seeing if they have a nut that fits? That would be easier than going to a junkyard

Its more of a stud that comes off the rear knuckle so that's not really an option. Even if it was suspension hardware is something id prefer to keep as oem or name brand as possible cause you never know with that shit...

[Thedriftbadger]

Originally Posted by mpapers22

Its more of a stud that comes off the rear knuckle so that's not really an option. Even if it was suspension hardware is something id prefer to keep as oem or name brand as possible cause you never know with that shit...

Ah i was thinking of the fronts. Then just bring the nut from the other side and find one that matches. So at least you'll be able to drive on it. The dealer should have one, or will order one for you.