Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by mau5trap

Can I get a price check..

How much are S14 T28 Ball Bearing Turbo "USED" going for right now?

About tree fiddy

[tannerezell077]

Hello i am trying to solve a problem that just happened with my ka24de turbo build. After bleeding the cooling system the other day and putting in a new thermostat once my car started to get hot(fans unplugged) it started firing off three cylinders. I figured out that cylinder 4 had pooled up with oil and fouled the plug. Replaced the valve cover gasket and checked compression they both turned out okay. No coolant and oil mixing or anything like that but i do smell gas in my oil. The oil seems pretty thin and definitely has gas in it probably because my injector/fuel rail spacer needed to be replaced. I fixed that and started having this issue a few days later. It smokes bad after about 10 seconds after startup. Could my oil be really thinned and it causing it to leak through my old valve seals on #4? I feel like the gas in the oil is the root of the problem but for all i know it could be my rings. any help?


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[jbrowne]

Having an issue exactly as described in this youtube video below.

Clutch in/out no noise. Clutch in, put car in gear, hit the gas a bit and slowly let of clutch >noise happens...

Throwout bearing? input shaft bearing? Any ideas?

This sucks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jwOdJoFBugI

[VTEC_lol]

Symptoms of a failing fuel pump? I have Walbro 255 and I've read that they tend to either last forever or break easily, my symptoms are VERY lean acceleration, something like 17.2 between 1500-3000rpm and having fuel cuts or similiar on 4k rpm. Mines installed by previous owner so I have no idea how good or bad the wiring is, or the pump itself.
I had no idea that you shouldn't drive the car with < 1/4 tank, which I have done for almost a few years, so that's why I think it might be shit now

[DJTTon]

Originally Posted by VTEC_lol

Symptoms of a failing fuel pump? I have Walbro 255 and I've read that they tend to either last forever or break easily, my symptoms are VERY lean acceleration, something like 17.2 between 1500-3000rpm and having fuel cuts or similiar on 4k rpm. Mines installed by previous owner so I have no idea how good or bad the wiring is, or the pump itself.
I had no idea that you shouldn't drive the car with < 1/4 tank, which I have done for almost a few years, so that's why I think it might be shit now

Im in the same boat as far as an unknown fuel pump installed by prev owner. I said screw it and ordered a new unit from FRSport. Having said that, Ill have a spare pump I can sell you for cheap if youre into it.

[DJTTon]

Can anyone recommend some ways to restore some softness into the aged S14 dashes? Mine feels hard like a rock to the touch and it seems brittle. I was considering pulling the dash out, restoring/softening the "leather" and spraying it SEM interior trim black.

Lmk some thoughts fellas

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by DJTTon

Can anyone recommend some ways to restore some softness into the aged S14 dashes? Mine feels hard like a rock to the touch and it seems brittle. I was considering pulling the dash out, restoring/softening the "leather" and spraying it SEM interior trim black.

Lmk some thoughts fellas

honestly man, foam is foam... once the moisture is gone from it due to rotting in the sun for 20 years, its pretty much over.

[VTEC_lol]

Originally Posted by DJTTon

Im in the same boat as far as an unknown fuel pump installed by prev owner. I said screw it and ordered a new unit from FRSport. Having said that, Ill have a spare pump I can sell you for cheap if youre into it.

Alright I changed my pump back to stock one and had no difference, so my pump is fine.
However I have another question, any AAC experts here? I mean whenever the AAC chart rises my car goes lean af and kinda stalls, how is the AAC supposed to work under load/when not in idle?
AAC rises from 36 to 75 (below chart, above is RPM) and during that time AFR reads 17.2-20.0 and the car feels like misfiring or stalling

[DJTTon]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

honestly man, foam is foam... once the moisture is gone from it due to rotting in the sun for 20 years, its pretty much over.

Thanks for your thoughts dori, do you think I can still get away with spray the dash with the SEM interior paint?

[DJTTon]

@VTEC

look at the EC section of the FSM, pg 110

It sounds like the valve is opening to let air in as a result of ECU commands. This air bypasses the throttle body too. The least you can do is check to see if the part is okay. This can be done by checking the resistance between the two pins of the IACV/AAC. According to FSM is should be 10 ohms. But if I were to guess it shouldnt be operating, why would it? Right?

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by DJTTon

Thanks for your thoughts dori, do you think I can still get away with spray the dash with the SEM interior paint?

You should be able to regain some condition by using Lexol leather conditioner, applied daily, over time. If it's in the sun, shade it. Will that get you to around 25%, yes. Then go HAM with the SEM

[apex128]

Originally Posted by tannerezell077

Hello i am trying to solve a problem that just happened with my ka24de turbo build. After bleeding the cooling system the other day and putting in a new thermostat once my car started to get hot(fans unplugged) it started firing off three cylinders. I figured out that cylinder 4 had pooled up with oil and fouled the plug. Replaced the valve cover gasket and checked compression they both turned out okay. No coolant and oil mixing or anything like that but i do smell gas in my oil. The oil seems pretty thin and definitely has gas in it probably because my injector/fuel rail spacer needed to be replaced. I fixed that and started having this issue a few days later. It smokes bad after about 10 seconds after startup. Could my oil be really thinned and it causing it to leak through my old valve seals on #4? I feel like the gas in the oil is the root of the problem but for all i know it could be my rings. any help?


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I would make sure that you don't have any extra fuel leaking into the cylinder. You also probably want to change the oil if a lot of gas got in. Normal driving should evaporate the gas out, but if you can it would be a safer bet to just change the oil.

[brokeboi01]

Trying to take off this s13 coolant temp sensor off an sr20. Is there a specific clip point to press or just pull off?




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[e1_griego]

Gotta pull that metal bitch clip back/off, and then the clip just pulls off.

[brokeboi01]

Originally Posted by e1_griego

Gotta pull that metal bitch clip back/off, and then the clip just pulls off.

Got it out thanks!


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[VTEC_lol]

Okay how fucked am I?
I just installed new knock sensor and new gaskets to intake collector and iacv valve, went for a spin and suddenly the car just bogged and stopped accelerating, then I heard some kind of ticking noise, slowed down and finally very loud knock/rattle from engine. I assume my piston rings fried since the car actually was running lean, but the question is how much damage I might have made approx?
I stopped the car immediately and haven't started it yet so it hasn't knocked for more than 3 seconds about, but that might be enough time for pistons to damage the cylinders or worse?
Best case scenario only new piston rings? Worst case scenario new crankshaft, valves, pistons, lifters, rocker arms?
E: I really doubt it could be the chain tensioner, but maybe a possibility? Spun bearing would be my other guess. I can't post a video yet but it sound a lot like this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RQ2r-CxzBwg

[oLemurs]

Originally Posted by VTEC_lol

Okay how fucked am I?
I just installed new knock sensor and new gaskets to intake collector and iacv valve, went for a spin and suddenly the car just bogged and stopped accelerating, then I heard some kind of ticking noise, slowed down and finally very loud knock/rattle from engine. I assume my piston rings fried since the car actually was running lean, but the question is how much damage I might have made approx?
I stopped the car immediately and haven't started it yet so it hasn't knocked for more than 3 seconds about, but that might be enough time for pistons to damage the cylinders or worse?
Best case scenario only new piston rings? Worst case scenario new crankshaft, valves, pistons, lifters, rocker arms?
E: I really doubt it could be the chain tensioner, but maybe a possibility? Spun bearing would be my other guess. I can't post a video yet but it sound a lot like this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RQ2r-CxzBwg

if its knocking its rod bearings which will be pretty cheap if you have the tools and knowledge but if its pinging thats a bigger problem

[VTEC_lol]

Originally Posted by oLemurs

if its knocking its rod bearings which will be pretty cheap if you have the tools and knowledge but if its pinging thats a bigger problem

Turned out to be spun bearing, engine doesn't crank a full turn anymore and spark plug was smacked to shit on cyl #4, guess it's r.i.p engine

[DJTTon]

I stripped my interior for cleaning and theres a bunch of gunk and resiny stuff on the chassis below and behind the rear seats. Any recommendations for solvents I can use to clean that stuff off without damaging paint?

[e30gangsta]

Originally Posted by DJTTon

I stripped my interior for cleaning and theres a bunch of gunk and resiny stuff on the chassis below and behind the rear seats. Any recommendations for solvents I can use to clean that stuff off without damaging paint?

Gasoline. It will smell like fuel for days though, so be sure to be able to have a fan in the car, and be able to leave the windows down for a couple of days.

[DJTTon]

Originally Posted by e30gangsta

Gasoline. It will smell like fuel for days though, so be sure to be able to have a fan in the car, and be able to leave the windows down for a couple of days.

Funny you say that, the car has a faint smell of gas inside that I havent been able to pinpoint yet. Im going to forego that, but Im open to other options.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by DJTTon

Funny you say that, the car has a faint smell of gas inside that I havent been able to pinpoint yet. Im going to forego that, but Im open to other options.

I am a huge fan of MEK for removing stuff, but gloves and a mask are required. Naptha works good as does Acetone. High concentrate Denatured Alcohol is my first go to though. Red that list backwards for levelling up if one does not work. MEK is the bad ass of the group of solvents...which are also great paint partners.

[cwk]

Alright I might make you guys cringe at this one. So i recently picked up my 240 last weekend (first one). It’s got some good mods on it so far however the exhaust is stock and the worst part, it’s an automatic. And coming from a louder manual car, I definitely miss some sound. A friend of mine is selling a megan catback and I looked up some sound clips and it does sound good. Does anyone know if it’ll sound as shitty as I think it will with an auto? Or is there an exhaust that’s a bit louder than stock with a nice rumble but not like crazy look at me/wanna be ricecar in the auto. I am fully planning on swapping the automatic/engine I just don’t like the complete silence lol

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by cwk

Alright I might make you guys cringe at this one. So i recently picked up my 240 last weekend (first one). It’s got some good mods on it so far however the exhaust is stock and the worst part, it’s an automatic. And coming from a louder manual car, I definitely miss some sound. A friend of mine is selling a megan catback and I looked up some sound clips and it does sound good. Does anyone know if it’ll sound as shitty as I think it will with an auto? Or is there an exhaust that’s a bit louder than stock with a nice rumble but not like crazy look at me/wanna be ricecar in the auto. I am fully planning on swapping the automatic/engine I just don’t like the complete silence lol

No BS, Spec D Tuning, cheap as fuck, sounded great on my son's kouki. The only mod we did on the exhaust was put a ebay DTM muffler on it. The car sounded great taking off, sounded good on the highway, and from a hand shifted dead start, still sounded good. Only intake mod was K&N filter

[cwk]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

No BS, Spec D Tuning, cheap as fuck, sounded great on my son's kouki. The only mod we did on the exhaust was put a ebay DTM muffler on it. The car sounded great taking off, sounded good on the highway, and from a hand shifted dead start, still sounded good. Only intake mod was K&N filter

Redline thanks for the reply, exactly was I was looking for. I think I might go ahead and pull the trigger on it!

[Hoffman5982]

My s13 kade throttle body won’t go lower than 1.1 volts. If I unplug it the car runs ok. Plug it in and it starts misfiring and dies. I noticed with it unplugged it rises up to 4+ volts on the middle wire. Is this normal?

[DJTTon]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

I am a huge fan of MEK for removing stuff, but gloves and a mask are required. Naptha works good as does Acetone. High concentrate Denatured Alcohol is my first go to though. Red that list backwards for levelling up if one does not work. MEK is the bad ass of the group of solvents...which are also great paint partners.

Ive decided to go with a mix of simple green and water with a brush first then wipe up with a micro. Havent done the work yet but thats most likely what Ill be doing.

[oLemurs]

Originally Posted by Hoffman5982

My s13 kade throttle body won’t go lower than 1.1 volts. If I unplug it the car runs ok. Plug it in and it starts misfiring and dies. I noticed with it unplugged it rises up to 4+ volts on the middle wire. Is this normal?

your tps sensor is probably shot, you can buy a new one for about 100 or get one off ebay used

[[240sx]]

Any one ever experience consistent battery & parking brake light on the dash flashing simultaneously? Google search yields a 'dooming' alternator, but I've been driving it without any issues since Tuesday(200miles ago). No dimming lights, or change in engine cranking on start up. There's no pattern to it, but it does starts happening (when cold) at around 3k RPMs. Odd huh?

[1on1]

^ sounds like some wires are touching. If your car is lowered, I would check under the driverside fender to see if any wires are frayed.