Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by Roscoe.

Done both. Cleaned the MAF twice, and no issue at wiring.

sorry, i meant to say check the pins inside the MAF plug. if they are completely flattened out and not making proper contact with the pins of the MAF itself, this will cause all sorts of frustrating issues, including ALL of what you described above.

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

sorry, i meant to say check the pins inside the MAF plug. if they are completely flattened out and not making proper contact with the pins of the MAF itself, this will cause all sorts of frustrating issues, including ALL of what you described above.

I believe the fsm has backprobe specs for testing maf operation with it plugged in.

[Roscoe.]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

sorry, i meant to say check the pins inside the MAF plug. if they are completely flattened out and not making proper contact with the pins of the MAF itself, this will cause all sorts of frustrating issues, including ALL of what you described above.

Double checked, all good there. The car will die if MAF is unplugged, followed FSM procedures to test the MAF, all clear. I further went through and cleaned all the grounds on the engine, no luck. I do now have a code for EGR function, but that is a new code that hasn't been present until today.

On a bit of a whim I adjusted ignition timing, advanced it a couple degrees, and the situation improved. It's still not 100%, still bogs a little coming off idle, and has a machine-gun stutter, but it is noticeably better.

[dorkidori_s13]

you unplugged the MAF while the car was running or unplugged it with the car off then turned it over?

if the car dies with the MAF unplugged, then its an ECU related issue. when starting the car with no MAF, it should go into diagnostic mode which runs a default loop and will not allow you to rev over 2500-3000rpms.

[Roscoe.]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

you unplugged the MAF while the car was running or unplugged it with the car off then turned it over?

if the car dies with the MAF unplugged, then its an ECU related issue. when starting the car with no MAF, it should go into diagnostic mode which runs a default loop and will not allow you to rev over 2500-3000rpms.

Yes, I unplugged MAF while the car was running, and it died. I was under the impression that was proper? If not, what should I do diagnostically?

[dorkidori_s13]

if you want to put the car into diagnostic mode, you need to unplug the MAF while the car is off... unplugging it while the car is running will instantly kill the motor since the ECU doesnt understand what to do.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

if you want to put the car into diagnostic mode, you need to unplug the MAF while the car is off... unplugging it while the car is running will instantly kill the motor since the ECU doesnt understand what to do.

Odd, I've seen this be the case running or not running with SR's, and KA's. If the MAF comes unplugged while driving it should remain ON and in limp mode

[dorkidori_s13]

every SR ive ever owned (AND my Mazdas FSDE) instantly die at idle when unplugging the MAF while the motor is running.

[Roscoe.]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

if you want to put the car into diagnostic mode, you need to unplug the MAF while the car is off... unplugging it while the car is running will instantly kill the motor since the ECU doesnt understand what to do.

So I went back and measured voltages and continuity on the MAF and everything lined up with the FSM. I still don't have any codes throwing either. I don't want to keep just throwing money at new parts hoping that'll fix it, can you guys think of anything else I can check?

[souljaseth33]

Does anyone know the part number for the seal pointed out below? For KA



Also, is this salvageable? Was left outside, not sure if I can just swap the same part off my other drive shaft




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[Standard]

^ Try to clean it up with a wire wheel, otherwise yeah it's definitely swappable, probly would want to replace that u-joint while your at it

[707silvia]

Does anyone know if there's an aem v2 that's plug and play for a 1996 Nissan 240sx se? Having trouble finding one. but I also know that ppl do run aem v2's on there s14's with ka24de maybe just on obd1's not obd2?

[souljaseth33]

Originally Posted by Standard

^ Try to clean it up with a wire wheel, otherwise yeah it's definitely swappable, probly would want to replace that u-joint while your at it

Thanks, I'll give cleaning it up a try before swapping!

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by souljaseth33

Thanks, I'll give cleaning it up a try before swapping!

My main concern would be pitting of the metal from rust. Can either damage the seal during install, or simply not get a good deal and leak. That piece should be smooth, something to check for after you try to clean it up.

[caspa]

My A/C compressor doesn't cycle ON/OFF... it just stays on the whole time when I have the A/C blasting. Any suggestions why it's doing this? thanks in advance.

[souljaseth33]

Originally Posted by LoSt180

My main concern would be pitting of the metal from rust. Can either damage the seal during install, or simply not get a good deal and leak. That piece should be smooth, something to check for after you try to clean it up.

Something I was afraid of as well. If it isn't able to get smooth again, I will swap it out with my stock drive shaft I've got.

[jumpman2334]

if you have access to a sand blaster, I recommend blasting instead of a wire wheel. that will really give you a good idea of how bad it is.


granted, most blast cabinets aren't long enough for a drive shaft. you could do what ive done in the bast and ghetto-fy it with a garbage bag and duct tape. make sure you wear a respirator tho. or the dustless outside units without a cabinet would probably work better.

[Brandon240sx]

Want to get rid of the open diff on my 89' s13. Bought a VLSD for $75 then found out after the fact that it's not great for drifting and slowly turns into an open diff. Don't really wanna weld my open diff because I don't want to be drifting every turn I make. What should I buy and drop in? I'm not looking for something expensive since it's stock just want to have something that's fun to slide with and possibly one day down the line, begin tracking with.

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by Brandon240sx

I'm not looking for something expensive

then youre not gonna find what you are looking for.

your best bet is to find someone selling an HLSD from an S15 with output shafts (you NEED S15 output shafts as they are 30 spline, everything else is 29 spline). cheapest and easiest way to upgrade your diff with something reliable and worth every penny spent (HLSDs also hold their resale value). HLSD never wears out btw since its all gear driven!

otherwise, youll wind up having to go the welded diff route which will ruin all drive-ability in your car for daily life

[dbeiler]

Originally Posted by caspa

My A/C compressor doesn't cycle ON/OFF... it just stays on the whole time when I have the A/C blasting. Any suggestions why it's doing this? thanks in advance.

Is it a KA compressor?

The KA24 uses a variable displacement compressor. It uses a swash-plate design to keep the refrigerant pressures very consistent regardless of engine rpm and load demand. This means the compressor clutch will not cycle until the displacement variance has reached it's limit. The compressor clutch should rarely cycle on a functioning system.

This can be confusing to people who are accustomed to the constantly cycling, non-variable compressors found on most modern econotrash cars. Cars really were better in the '90s.

[Standard]

Originally Posted by Brandon240sx

Want to get rid of the open diff on my 89' s13. Bought a VLSD for $75 then found out after the fact that it's not great for drifting and slowly turns into an open diff. Don't really wanna weld my open diff because I don't want to be drifting every turn I make. What should I buy and drop in? I'm not looking for something expensive since it's stock just want to have something that's fun to slide with and possibly one day down the line, begin tracking with.

I'd say just swap in the vlsd since you already have it, sounds like it would probably be all you need at this point to have a little fun. Tracking the car and getting the diff really hot is what makes a vlsd loose its lockability if that's a word lol Down the line you could always swap it if you felt like an upgrade was necessary, shimming the diff would be another option

[Brandon240sx]

Originally Posted by Standard

I'd say just swap in the vlsd since you already have it, sounds like it would probably be all you need at this point to have a little fun. Tracking the car and getting the diff really hot is what makes a vlsd loose its lockability if that's a word lol Down the line you could always swap it if you felt like an upgrade was necessary, shimming the diff would be another option

Sounds good, thanks. I've looked into shimming the diff and have heard mixed things. I've heard it's a bunch of bs and does nothing, it wears down the diff quickly, causes it to get hit quickly. But I've also heard people say that it makes such a difference and it works good. Any idea what really happens after shimming the diff?

[derass]

I'd recommended a used 2-way. There are enough of them around that you can get one cheap. It's the best diff choice for drifting hands down (aside from price).

[Roscoe.]

Originally Posted by Roscoe.

So I went back and measured voltages and continuity on the MAF and everything lined up with the FSM. I still don't have any codes throwing either. I don't want to keep just throwing money at new parts hoping that'll fix it, can you guys think of anything else I can check?

Replaced the MAF today to rule it out, and it made no change. Threw in brand new spark plugs, Dizzy Cap and Rotor, and plug wires today as well, no change. Threw some carb cleaner into the IACV tube off the intake, no change. All the injectors are 11.6, and spray proper. Fuel pressure is at 34psi (Although it does spike to 43 when I hit throttle, and then drops back down.). The vacuum port off the TB for the canister (deleted) has always been open and has just started asking for vacuum, I capped it off, and capped it runs better but still shit. Made sure the TPS is at .47. I'm out of ideas of things to check.

[The issue is the car will drop 1-200 rpms when getting on throttle, stutters around 2200 rpm, and is wildly underpowered throughout the rpm. I noticed today that if I stay below half throttle it accelerates smoothly, but above all of the problem pops through, save the rpm drop getting on throttle which happens every time.]

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by Roscoe.

Replaced the MAF today to rule it out, and it made no change. Threw in brand new spark plugs, Dizzy Cap and Rotor, and plug wires today as well, no change. Threw some carb cleaner into the IACV tube off the intake, no change. All the injectors are 11.6, and spray proper. Fuel pressure is at 34psi (Although it does spike to 43 when I hit throttle, and then drops back down.). The vacuum port off the TB for the canister (deleted) has always been open and has just started asking for vacuum, I capped it off, and capped it runs better but still shit. Made sure the TPS is at .47. I'm out of ideas of things to check.

[The issue is the car will drop 1-200 rpms when getting on throttle, stutters around 2200 rpm, and is wildly underpowered throughout the rpm. I noticed today that if I stay below half throttle it accelerates smoothly, but above all of the problem pops through, save the rpm drop getting on throttle which happens every time.]

Static Timing. You might be a tooth off or not at 20*

[Roscoe.]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

Static Timing. You might be a tooth off or not at 20*

Just checked, timing is fine. Cam dots are proper, lines up with dizzy position, cam lobes are in the right place.

I did just find that the injector o-rings at the manifold are leaking air, have ordered new ones. Could this be enough to cause these issues?

[coolshirtrobert]

Can someone confirm if the oil drain/return line fitting on the sr block is 1/2 npt when switching to ss braided lines? 1/2 npt to 10 an.

Also found this
its 1/2" BSPT...you need a 1/2"BSPT to 1/2"NPT union, then a 1/2" NPT female coupler, then a 1/2" NPT to -8AN or -10AN union adapter


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[derass]

Can't help you with the NPT vs BSPT.

But if it's BSPT, you don't need to use that NPT union as an intermediate. Just get a 1/2" BSPT to -10 AN fitting.

edit: I found that SR20forums post you were looking at.

Here's another link saying it's 1/2" BSPT:

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=537898

[3NDLESS]

I'm not interested in paying a hefty fee for oem z32 2+2 cables and was wondering if
the Raybestos BC94260 are the same thing, but not nissan oem. I'm about to e-brake swap and was wondering if what it shows online is accurate.

[derass]

I'm sure those will work.

There is a very significant difference between 2-seater and 2+2 cables. They cannot be interchanged.

So as long as you're buying for 2+2, you'll be fine.

ps. my OEM 2+2 cables were $70 per side from FRSport