Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[zombiewolf513]

I haven't put a header on any N/A ka's, but I'd be willing to bet you'd get some fuller sound, maybe a little bit less rattly-rasp noise in the 5-6.5k rpm range.

If I were to spend the money on an exhaust for an N/A ka, I'd be making one or paying someone to make me a custom one that has some artistic, audible, whatever value.

If $300-400 on a header breaks the bank, save the money

[kashira kureijii]

whats the point of putting an exhaust on a stock KA? to wake up professional school students in the middle of the night while they're trying to get their few hours of sleep?


putting an exhaust on an NA KA for non-replacement reasons just seems like those dips who straightpipe their d15 civics


I mean, if my exhaust was broken i would, but otherwise meh.

with turbo cars its a litte different, cuz you're trying to gain performance, and turbos arent shitloud

[SoundEfx]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

Log Onto Amazon
Input YEAR 240SX OBX Racing Header
Apply for Citi credit card for $50 Amazon Gift Card
Select header($175)
Got to shopping cart
Apply gift card
NOW at payment, DESELECT CITI CARD
Select typical payment plus 50 gift card
Price with free shipping is now $125

Go into account AND REMOVE CITI Card. When the card comes in the mail, Cancel it, by sending it back to them cut in two pieces with teh note on teh paper in red stating CANCEL

Then buy a Meegan test pipe on Enjuku for $35 and be done with exhaust
Oh, amazon also has several mufflers to fit oe pipe, as well as cheap ass N1 knock offs too for cat back

Thanks for that tip. Unfortunately, the header that comes up is the 'shorty' one that attaches to the three bolt down pipe. I'm trying to avoid those.

But I will use your tip for something else I need from Amazon.

[SoundEfx]

Originally Posted by zombiewolf513

I haven't put a header on any N/A ka's, but I'd be willing to bet you'd get some fuller sound, maybe a little bit less rattly-rasp noise in the 5-6.5k rpm range.

If I were to spend the money on an exhaust for an N/A ka, I'd be making one or paying someone to make me a custom one that has some artistic, audible, whatever value.

If $300-400 on a header breaks the bank, save the money

It's not that a $300-400 header breaks the bank, I simply don't want to pay that much.

If there are no quality header or exhaust out there, I'll keep it stock because I see no point in spending around 1K for a full exhaust to yield little to no power gains.

I don't know why some people are hating on the idea of a simple and small header and exhaust upgrade from the ugly stock one. I'm not a youngling who wants to blast around with installed blast pipes. I HATE those things.

[TheRealSy90]

Wants quality. Doesn't want to pay for it.


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[SoundEfx]

Wants decent quality for a reasonable price.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by SoundEfx

It's not that a $300-400 header breaks the bank, I simply don't want to pay that much.

If there are no quality header or exhaust out there, I'll keep it stock because I see no point in spending around 1K for a full exhaust to yield little to no power gains.

I don't know why some people are hating on the idea of a simple and small header and exhaust upgrade from the ugly stock one. I'm not a youngling who wants to blast around with installed blast pipes. I HATE those things.

The ISR Header for the KA24DE is a direct clone of the OBXR part. The one thing you may want to do is also pick up the EGR delete for the Intake, and get the Nissan EGR block off bolt from Quirk Nissan(200SX, Stanza, Maxima EGR Exhaust plug)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/huc/view.h...F80WL3KRJT%2C1


http://www.enjukuracing.com/products...4de-91-98.html


These parts will make the car LIGHTER, and give a nice smooth sound when the Megan test pipe is used along with a 2.5" exhaust and oval dual or single tip muffler(prevents cabin drone). You are looking for simple decent stuff for the car, not the drift kid bs. I'm right there with you. With the Enthalpy Stock 92/93/94 octane tune and an Injen intake, the little 240 will wake up and be fun to drive. The addition of coil overs and a good arm kit(ISR V3 is the best money) the cars are a blast on back roads. So much so, that like me, you may even start to think maybe drifting would be fun to do...yeah, we got a huge grassroots scene here and that bug has bit

[SoundEfx]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

The ISR Header for the KA24DE is a direct clone of the OBXR part. The one thing you may want to do is also pick up the EGR delete for the Intake, and get the Nissan EGR block off bolt from Quirk Nissan(200SX, Stanza, Maxima EGR Exhaust plug)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/huc/view.h...F80WL3KRJT%2C1


http://www.enjukuracing.com/products...4de-91-98.html


These parts will make the car LIGHTER, and give a nice smooth sound when the Megan test pipe is used along with a 2.5" exhaust and oval dual or single tip muffler(prevents cabin drone). You are looking for simple decent stuff for the car, not the drift kid bs. I'm right there with you. With the Enthalpy Stock 92/93/94 octane tune and an Injen intake, the little 240 will wake up and be fun to drive. The addition of coil overs and a good arm kit(ISR V3 is the best money) the cars are a blast on back roads. So much so, that like me, you may even start to think maybe drifting would be fun to do...yeah, we got a huge grassroots scene here and that bug has bit

Thank you. Someone who gets it.

I knew about the block off plate, so my Enjukuracing shopping cart consists of the header, test pipe, block off plate and their dual tip exhaust. I will see how that combination sounds and add the necessary sized resonator after.

I can never get into drifting. Max grip is my poison, but not in this car. This is a simple save and restore project.

The suspension arms will be coming in early next year. That way the car should be 80% complete by spring.

[MightyMouse13]

Been looking around without much luck. I have z32 rear calipers, but switched to gktech knuckles, so the z32 bolts are too long and are hitting the rotor. My guess is i need to switch back to the s13 sized bolts. What are the dimensions of the s13 bolts vs the z32 ones?


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[DJTTon]

Are there any G35 enthusiasts on here? I'm considering picking up one as a daily and would like someone to review it with me. Pm me please

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[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by DJTTon

Are there any G35 enthusiasts on here? I'm considering picking up one as a daily and would like someone to review it with me. Pm me please

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Yup. An 06 6mt coupe is my daily. Pm me with questions, or check out G35Driver.com

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by SoundEfx

Thank you. Someone who gets it.

I knew about the block off plate, so my Enjukuracing shopping cart consists of the header, test pipe, block off plate and their dual tip exhaust. I will see how that combination sounds and add the necessary sized resonator after.

I can never get into drifting. Max grip is my poison, but not in this car. This is a simple save and restore project.

The suspension arms will be coming in early next year. That way the car should be 80% complete by spring.

Get the Megan Test Pipe that isn't the straight pipe style. It's a resonator. With the dual tip exhaust, it will give a really nice sound. We did my son's kouki with a similar set up

[1on1]

Originally Posted by e1_griego

Sounds like you changed something else.

Wastegate reference line is hooked up with no leaks?

If you remove the EBC from the equation does that fix it?

Originally Posted by derass

like e1 said, remove the EBC, connect the signal line directly between source and wg, then check boost pressure again. could also be a ruptured wg diaphragm.

Thanks guys and sorry for the late response since I was prepping my car for paint. I finally checked and it must be the WG. I plan on changing it out this week with another stock WG I have laying around.

[S14kouki805]

Can someone link me or advise on how to confirm a possible leaking exhaust valve/guide?

I think I might be burning oil and it seems to be the exhaust valves on cylinder 3 and 4.

[S14kouki805]

Also on the S14 where are you guys grounding you negative battery terminal for a trunk relocate? I think I have a bad grounding spot.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by S14kouki805

Can someone link me or advise on how to confirm a possible leaking exhaust valve/guide?

I think I might be burning oil and it seems to be the exhaust valves on cylinder 3 and 4.

To do it right(trunk mounted battery), you should get a grommet, drill a hole, run the grommet over the wire, and connect to the frame after insuring you have metal to metal contact. Use anti corrosion preservative over the connection. Get an XS Power kit

If you think you have leaky valves, you do a compression test. What you are probably seeing is worn valve seals

[S14kouki805]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

To do it right(trunk mounted battery), you should get a grommet, drill a hole, run the grommet over the wire, and connect to the frame after insuring you have metal to metal contact. Use anti corrosion preservative over the connection. Get an XS Power kit

If you think you have leaky valves, you do a compression test. What you are probably seeing is worn valve seals

Thanks for the response!

I guess I meant where exactly are you guys grounding the negative terminal in the trunk. Maybe someone can post a pic, I've heard the spare tire mount but that seems kind of weak. I'm currently grounding on the sheet metal right inside the spare tire well. My issue is that the car won't start without a jump but it's a new battery...I'm thinking it's a bad ground.

Regarding the compression test, I did that a couple weeks ago, they all checked out around 110-115, it's a fresh build with 87.5mm 8.5:1 pistons and freshly rebuilt head with new valve guides. I called the shop and explained my oil issue (oil build up in exhaust ports of cylinder 3 and 4)the guy says that's normal as long as not excessive. There's only about 600 miles on it since the build. Do those compression number seem too low?

Thanks again!

[e1_griego]

The spare tire mount is flat wrong.

I don't have a rear mount battery so I can't speak to that, but there are a couple threaded holes in the trunk of my s13 where I run grounds to, but just for relays.

[TheRealSy90]

110-115 is extremely low for a freshly built engine.


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[S14kouki805]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

110-115 is extremely low for a freshly built engine.


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Yeah I thought so, what would be normal for those specs? The builder said the rings are not seated yet to check again in 500 miles.

[TheRealSy90]

My redtop sr does 180 across all four and it's been in my car since 2008, which is when I imported it from Japan so no clue how many miles are on it.


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[tgd89]

Looking to pick the block up off another member, has 250 miles or so on it, bottom end looks great but the pistons look a little caked, but he says it was running pretty rich. What does zilvia think?

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by S14kouki805

Thanks for the response!

I guess I meant where exactly are you guys grounding the negative terminal in the trunk. Maybe someone can post a pic

Thanks again!

Did I say grommet and FRAME Mount? I think so as is confirmed in the NEGATIVE portion of the link below

http://www.4xspower.com/AK-Kits-Instruction.pdf

[S14kouki805]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

Did I say grommet and FRAME Mount? I think so as is confirmed in the NEGATIVE portion of the link below

http://www.4xspower.com/AK-Kits-Instruction.pdf

Ok, ok, shit take it easy! lol, no but seriously thanks man!

[SoundEfx]

My 'new to me' tach has a white back ground and the rest of my gauges are black.

I want to swap the back grounds, but that entails removing the needle and there is where my problem starts.

Every where I looked, simply says to pull upwards with equal force on both sides of the needle. Is that the proper way to remove the needle from a S14 tach?

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by SoundEfx

My 'new to me' tach has a white back ground and the rest of my gauges are black.

I want to swap the back grounds, but that entails removing the needle and there is where my problem starts.

Every where I looked, simply says to pull upwards with equal force on both sides of the needle. Is that the proper way to remove the needle from a S14 tach?

Years ago when I put white face overlays on my car I removed the stand that the needle "rests" on with needle nose pliers. Mark the side where the needle stops turning. Pull needle strait off, might need a little wiggle. When you put the needle back on, align it with the mark you made. That way you know the speedo/tach remain accurate.

[Juantwo3]

Does anyone know of a paint/body shop in Fullerton/Anaheim area?
that does good work at a fair price.

[SoundEfx]

Originally Posted by LoSt180

Years ago when I put white face overlays on my car I removed the stand that the needle "rests" on with needle nose pliers. Mark the side where the needle stops turning. Pull needle strait off, might need a little wiggle. When you put the needle back on, align it with the mark you made. That way you know the speedo/tach remain accurate.

That's the part that scares me a little because I've heard horror stories of the plastic piece that holds the needle breaking.

I'll try it on the old/broken tach and see how it goes.

Thanks for helping.

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by SoundEfx

That's the part that scares me a little because I've heard horror stories of the plastic piece that holds the needle breaking.

I'll try it on the old/broken tach and see how it goes.

Thanks for helping.

If you remove the needle rest stop, you can twist the needle off also.

[Jorgs_7]

Originally Posted by S14kouki805

Also on the S14 where are you guys grounding you negative battery terminal for a trunk relocate? I think I have a bad grounding spot.

Ran two cables from trunk into the engine bay,

Welded a ground stud near the bottom of the passenger side strut tower.

Its generally poor practice to ground in the trunk.