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Old 05-05-2016, 03:13 PM   #19711
kashira kureijii
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Originally Posted by [240sx] View Post
^^ Replacement patch panel? Just as if it was rust repair.
I'll see what I can do,
didn't know if I had like ruined structural integrity or not
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Old 05-05-2016, 03:17 PM   #19712
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..didn't know if I had like ruined structural integrity or not
If the metal was good before the liquid nitrogen, I would assume it might have.
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Old 05-05-2016, 03:30 PM   #19713
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Missing the two slim/long bolts that secure the head to the front oil pump cover (under the cam gears/CAS, not the ones that actually bolt the cam shaft down.) Anyone know what size they are? Was unable to find any information in the FSM. Redtop SR
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Old 05-05-2016, 05:38 PM   #19714
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Any of you guys have recommendations for where I can purchase new or remanufactured (if there is such a thing) OEM A/C parts for a single cam S13 online?

Not sure if all A/C components should be purchased new if I want to get my exposed-to-the-atmosphere system back up and running properly again.

I've been looking online here and there and haven't really came across much. Fuck the heat. Thanks.
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Old 05-05-2016, 06:15 PM   #19715
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Hey guys, I'm pretty close to finishing my semester and will have spare time and I wanna tackle my alignment specs. Here's a pic of current #s, im wondering how much I could do with just coilovers and adjustable inner outer tie rodsuploadfromtaptalk1462493738567.jpg

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Old 05-05-2016, 10:34 PM   #19716
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Doc racing manifold; powering steering fitment issue.

Does anyone here run a doc racing top mount turbo manifold ? Sr20.. I'm having fitment issues with the power steering pump, not even close to clearing to get on the bracket lol anyone know of a possible solution or anything Ideas are welcome 😅
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Old 05-05-2016, 10:58 PM   #19717
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Does anyone here run a doc racing top mount turbo manifold ? Sr20.. I'm having fitment issues with the power steering pump, not even close to clearing to get on the bracket lol anyone know of a possible solution or anything Ideas are welcome 😅
I had to install the line rotated 90 degrees. So instead of the tang on the line fitting in the keyway on the pump, you hold the line so the tang faces the motor and tighten the banjo
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Old 05-06-2016, 08:32 AM   #19718
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I had to install the line rotated 90 degrees. So instead of the tang on the line fitting in the keyway on the pump, you hold the line so the tang faces the motor and tighten the banjo
Unfortunately it's not the line, it's the whole pump .
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Old 05-06-2016, 02:37 PM   #19719
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time to break out a welder! get to it sir!
Thanks man, it welded up pretty nicely, had a little reinforcement welded in so it doesn't flex

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Old 05-06-2016, 06:42 PM   #19720
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Does anyone here run a doc racing top mount turbo manifold ? Sr20.. I'm having fitment issues with the power steering pump, not even close to clearing to get on the bracket lol anyone know of a possible solution or anything Ideas are welcome 😅
Please, need the help asap so I can finish my build and get this 400hp Sr going !!
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Old 05-06-2016, 06:54 PM   #19721
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Please, need the help asap so I can finish my build and get this 400hp Sr going !!
Email the company directly? Maybe bad batch, maybe sent you a FWD by mistake, maybe need to return for a refund.
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Old 05-06-2016, 07:52 PM   #19722
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Please, need the help asap so I can finish my build and get this 400hp Sr going !!
Contact DOC. They should be able to help you out man.
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Old 05-06-2016, 07:59 PM   #19723
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Contact DOC. They should be able to help you out man.
Just emailed them, hopefully they got the solution thanks !
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Old 05-06-2016, 10:04 PM   #19724
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Hey guys, I'm pretty close to finishing my semester and will have spare time and I wanna tackle my alignment specs. Here's a pic of current #s, im wondering how much I could do with just coilovers and adjustable inner outer tie rods
Attachment 92849

Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk
Bump, still looking for tips
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Old 05-06-2016, 10:33 PM   #19725
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What are you trying to do with the car? That will determine alignment.
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Old 05-06-2016, 10:53 PM   #19726
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What are you trying to do with the car? That will determine alignment.
Street worthy spec (so far front toe and all round caster is fine), and everything to be uniform at least. The toe in the rear is way off on the passenger side and the camber is misaligned on both sides. Also has a slight pull to the right.

These are a few issues Im trying to address.
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Old 05-06-2016, 10:56 PM   #19727
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Well if you don't have adjustable arms in the back you just want to get it as good as you can with the eccentrics. Least amount of camber possible, maybe 0 to 1/16" of toe-in.
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Old 05-06-2016, 11:16 PM   #19728
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Well if you don't have adjustable arms in the back you just want to get it as good as you can with the eccentrics. Least amount of camber possible, maybe 0 to 1/16" of toe-in.
Megan Racing coilovers btw, but the rear does have more camber than the front. I could see the reason why though and its not functionality. The body kit on the car is kinda wide so the wheels could have been cambered up for stance. Unfortunately the aero is still on so I cant do anything about that but Id rather have functionality than stance.

How do you reckon I check camber and toe w/ out exactly get an alignment. Rather pricey in my area.
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Old 05-06-2016, 11:18 PM   #19729
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There is factory adjustment, it's just not a ton.
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Old 05-06-2016, 11:24 PM   #19730
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There is factory adjustment, it's just not a ton.
Can you elaborate please? Feel free to PM me, I dont want to hog the thread
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Old 05-06-2016, 11:28 PM   #19731
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Google eccentric bolts. That's what's in the rear suspension from the factory.
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Old 05-06-2016, 11:42 PM   #19732
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There is factory adjustment, it's just not a ton.
But it should be sufficient for what Im trying to do, right?
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Old 05-06-2016, 11:47 PM   #19733
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Probably not. That's why I said get it as close as you can.
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Old 05-07-2016, 07:43 AM   #19734
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Has anyone come across a 180sx bumper bra? Something that fits the "type x/kouki" bumper?
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Old 05-07-2016, 08:55 PM   #19735
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Does anyone know if you can run a dual vvl solenoid with the relocation block on a p12 head? instead of the p12 single vvl solenoid? any advice is helpful.
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Old 05-09-2016, 01:33 PM   #19736
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Just checking to see if anyone else has run into this issue. I recently replaced my stock rear calipers with some re manufactured ones and at the same time I put on new pads and rotors.

Before I had no issues, now the brake pedal will hit a dead stop halfway through it's travel. It's a 100% stop, no squishyness, and it's immediate. If I crack the bleeder screws on either rear caliper or on the master cylinder the pedal falls to half way and stops. If I crack the bleeder on either front caliper the pedal falls all the way to the floor like it should.

Stock s14 calipers, no abs, new hawk hp plus pads and new rotors.
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Old 05-09-2016, 01:43 PM   #19737
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Anyone have insight on removing door mouldings on S14? The trim that goes up and around the A-pillar, the quarter glass, and the trim near the driver/passenger door glass
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Old 05-09-2016, 03:47 PM   #19738
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Where do I buy these transmission rebuild tools like:
ST23810001 adapter setting plate

KV31100401 press stand

ST22520000 (J26348) Wrench
ST235440000 (J25689-A) pin punch
ST30031000 (J22912-01) PUller

I called Kent Moore but was told they do not make anything this old.
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Old 05-10-2016, 01:23 PM   #19739
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Quick non 240 question not sure where to look, but is the going rate for a 1990 nissan laurel 10k or what I should expect?
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Old 05-10-2016, 02:21 PM   #19740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by penco View Post
Missing the two slim/long bolts that secure the head to the front oil pump cover (under the cam gears/CAS, not the ones that actually bolt the cam shaft down.) Anyone know what size they are? Was unable to find any information in the FSM. Redtop SR
The ones 'inside' teh head itself? I can't remember length, but M6x1.0 is the pitch thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tacobellman_2007 View Post
Any of you guys have recommendations for where I can purchase new or remanufactured (if there is such a thing) OEM A/C parts for a single cam S13 online?

Not sure if all A/C components should be purchased new if I want to get my exposed-to-the-atmosphere system back up and running properly again.

I've been looking online here and there and haven't really came across much. Fuck the heat. Thanks.
May be easier converting over to DOHC stuff. Not overly complicated, but a little time consuming.


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Originally Posted by DJTTon View Post
Hey guys, I'm pretty close to finishing my semester and will have spare time and I wanna tackle my alignment specs. Here's a pic of current #s, im wondering how much I could do with just coilovers and adjustable inner outer tie rodsAttachment 92849

Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk
Truthfully, get a basic ISR/ISIS rear arm kit, and front tension rods, and you'll be good to go.

You need the camber arms in the rear as you want to get it to -1.5ish and the stock junk won't get you there. The rear toe for the same reason, but maybe a half a degree total in.

Front 0 toe, and the tension arms to help set caster....and because if you're on stock stuff and lowering it, you're gonna blow out the stockers in no time.



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Originally Posted by Nessethe240 View Post
Please, need the help asap so I can finish my build and get this 400hp Sr going !!
Put a stock manifold back on, and I'll weld it up for external gate for ya

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Originally Posted by AllThingsGravy View Post
Quick non 240 question not sure where to look, but is the going rate for a 1990 nissan laurel 10k or what I should expect?
I wouldn't pay over 3k for one.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingtal0n View Post
Where do I buy these transmission rebuild tools like:
ST23810001 adapter setting plate

KV31100401 press stand

ST22520000 (J26348) Wrench
ST235440000 (J25689-A) pin punch
ST30031000 (J22912-01) PUller

I called Kent Moore but was told they do not make anything this old.
Most of that stuff you can get through generic OTC puller tools and or similar
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