Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads) - Page 648 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

kashira kureijii · 03-17-2016, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crazyced

I'm fully aware that my car has a consult port. In fact here it is:

I can only assume the shit it's pact with is a mixture of dirt, road salts and fabric adhesive it gathered while it way laying on the floor. Last thing I want is continuity issues while flashing ROMs so if I can get my hands on a nice one I'll do that.

Jorgs_7 · 03-17-2016, 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by S14kouki805

I got a reman S14 rack at my local Napa for like $240, you need to give them your core though. If that's too much idk what to tell you.

I called Napa, Orilley and Advanced. None of them even have racks for 240sx available.

Javi802 · 03-17-2016, 03:46 PM

Have you tried buyautoparts.com?

SoundEfx · 03-17-2016, 04:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Javi802

Have you tried buyautoparts.com?

I did. They were asking for around $340. I can't remember if that was with or without the core return.

S14kouki805 · 03-17-2016, 06:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoundEfx

I did. They were asking for around $340. I can't remember if that was with or without the core return.

It was like 4 bills total, then I took the rack back for my core refund.

Why would you not have a rack to begin with though?

AllThingsGravy · 03-17-2016, 06:43 PM

Quick Q:

I have the oem intake piping for the sr20, what do I do with the 2 nipples? I have a fmic with no nipple on the hot pipe. Should I plug them both up? I'm new to the SR world and lost at the moment..

Javi802 · 03-17-2016, 07:45 PM

If im not mistaken, one hole is for a re-circulation valve, one is for the crankcase vent and im not sure what the small one is for. I just plugged the small one. If youre not recirculating your bov then you can plug that one.

AllThingsGravy · 03-17-2016, 08:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Javi802

If im not mistaken, one hole is for a re-circulation valve, one is for the crankcase vent and im not sure what the small one is for. I just plugged the small one. If youre not recirculating your bov then you can plug that one.

I just looked at my bov and I see what you're talking about thanks. Any idea where the Waste gate nipple goes to?

Javi802 · 03-17-2016, 08:43 PM

The waste gate nipple needs to go to a boost source. I had a bung for a nipple fitting welded on my hot pipe. Ive heard of people using the nipple under the throttle body for the wastegate, but im unsure as to whether or not that is ideal. The intake manifold is obviously going to be pressurized so i dont see why it wouldnt work, but i like that my vacuum line only has to be run about 6 inches/

AllThingsGravy · 03-17-2016, 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Javi802

The waste gate nipple needs to go to a boost source. I had a bung for a nipple fitting welded on my hot pipe. Ive heard of people using the nipple under the throttle body for the wastegate, but im unsure as to whether or not that is ideal. The intake manifold is obviously going to be pressurized so i dont see why it wouldnt work, but i like that my vacuum line only has to be run about 6 inches/

Would this work or is it off? If so then I need to get a controller....

Javi802 · 03-17-2016, 09:07 PM

The left nipple is what goes to the fpr. The right is what goes to the bov. At least thats how i have it. Not sure if it matters being as how both ports go in to the manifold. One nipple is larger though so that may change the amount of vacuum those sources see? Not sure.

You dont need a boost controller if you dont intend on on playing with your boost pressure, which i wouldnt. Either way you will still need a source for your wastgate.

AllThingsGravy · 03-17-2016, 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Javi802

The left nipple is what goes to the fpr. The right is what goes to the bov. At least thats how i have it. Not sure if it matters being as how both ports go in to the manifold. One nipple is larger though so that may change the amount of vacuum those sources see? Not sure.

You dont need a boost controller if you dont intend on on playing with your boost pressure, which i wouldnt. Either way you will still need a source for your wastgate.

Yeah I don't plan on touching the boost pressure, so then can anyone confirm if I can run the WG to the TB?

derass · 03-17-2016, 10:49 PM

I would not do that for two reasons:

1) The wastegate diaphragm is not designed to experience vacuum. It may tear and no longer control boost pressure.

2) The length of that hose would be far too long and cause boost spike

You should either weld a nipple to the hot pipe, tap the compressor outlet pipe or use a "Quick-tap" from ATP

AllThingsGravy · 03-17-2016, 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by derass

I would not do that for two reasons:

1) The wastegate diaphragm is not designed to experience vacuum. It may tear and no longer control boost pressure.

2) The length of that hose would be far too long and cause boost spike

You should either weld a nipple to the hot pipe, tap the compressor outlet pipe or use a "Quick-tap" from ATP

Looks like I'll go with the quick tap, any idea which hose to tap into? Only one I can think of is the intake hose.

derass · 03-18-2016, 10:40 PM

The intake pipe won't work, it doesn't see boost pressure.

The ideal source for the wastegate signal is closest to the compressor housing so that it can respond quickly. I had my quicktap on the coupler between the compressor outlet pipe and hotpipe. Now, I have a fitting tapped into the compressor outlet pipe. It's cheaper, but more difficult to get right the first time of you're not experinced tapping curved surfaces.

AllThingsGravy · 03-18-2016, 11:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by derass

The intake pipe won't work, it doesn't see boost pressure.

The ideal source for the wastegate signal is closest to the compressor housing so that it can respond quickly. I had my quicktap on the coupler between the compressor outlet pipe and hotpipe. Now, I have a fitting tapped into the compressor outlet pipe. It's cheaper, but more difficult to get right the first time of you're not experinced tapping curved surfaces.

Alright I gotcha, I saw it would be good for the coupler between the hot pipe and the outlet pipe

AllThingsGravy · 03-18-2016, 11:21 PM

I have another question now... is this the oem red top outlet pipe? My hot pipe sits too high and the hood doesn't close. I Googled the oem one and it looks like the oem one sits more straight up.

Jibbberish · 03-19-2016, 12:25 AM

^Doesn't look stock. The stock one is shorter and sits almost vertical:

Quote:

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jibbberish

So I've got a troubling problem. Running a pretty much stock blacktop sr. Just has FMIC, boost controller (that's turned off, so its just on wastegate pressure), t28, and that's about it. Atmospheric bov as well which comes with its own issues but shouldn't cause this.

Problem is it's going WAAAAY lean at idle, and too lean while cruising. At idle it'll go off the gauge on my AEM wideband, which means 18+. Cruising it was at like 16+, and wide open it was just fine in the high 11's to low 12's.

So I've got the crappy little AFC neo, and I had to go +50 (which is the max) at 500rpm, and +28 at 1000rpm to get the afr at idle to sit around 14.6. And sometimes the engine will shutter for a second and the afr will go down to like 11 then slowly climb back up. Values at other revs had to go to between like +5 and +8 to get cruising afr to high 14's, low 15's. All these settings were done at a local shop on a dyno, timing was checked in the process.

I don't seem to have any vacuum or boost leaks. Wide open it runs just fine. What's goin on here?
Few other symptoms:
-When letting the car decelerate in gear, often times there'll be a loud ass pop that kinda sounds like an intake backfire at 1500rpm. Always at 1500. I assume it's because I'm throwing so much fuel at it down there, but I thought that shouldn't matter off throttle?
-Also, if I clutch in and let the revs drop it'll drop to like 600 and shutter for a second then surge back up to idle. Not due to the bov because in this case i'm not gassing it before I put the clutch in.
-At super low throttle cruising (like 1-5%, when i'm just barely on the gas going downhill or something) it'll go rich as hell, like 12. Increase throttle to 8%ish and up and it'll go back to around 15.

Sorry if this is long winded as fuck lol trying to give a good description.

sounds like youre pulling air post MAF, pre turbo... are you using t-bolt clamps and thick couplers or screw clamps and paper thin couplers? you may also be leaking air at the intake manifold as well, get a torque wrench and check torque on all of the intake manifold bolts.

also, clean your MAF and check the MAF plug pins inside of the plug from the wiring harness.

The intake tube is stock. Thick couplers and screw hose clamps for post turbo piping. No extraneous vacuum lines. Everything is tight.

Cleaned the maf (looked fine though) and hooked a vacuum up to the intake while it was off the car, no leaks. The only thing post maf is the valve cover breather hose, but it comes that way stock so I wouldn't think that would cause issues right?

The sensor for the maf in the AFC Neo is set to "hot wire", then "In" 1, "Out" 1, then "In" single, "Out" single. I'm not sure where to verify that this is the correct setting, but I know if it was incorrect that'd cause problems so if anyone knows the proper setting let me know.

Kaiba · 03-19-2016, 01:44 PM

My single cam rattles when started and sometimes when idling. I figure it's the dreaded timing chain issue. It would also explain why my coolant keeps turning black, and my motor smells like it's burning all the time.

Is it worth trying fix all this shit? Or would it be more cost effective to just buy a new motor?

***dorkidori_s13*** · 03-19-2016, 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AllThingsGravy

I have another question now... is this the oem red top outlet pipe? My hot pipe sits too high and the hood doesn't close. I Googled the oem one and it looks like the oem one sits more straight up.

its from an S14/S15/

Corbic · 03-19-2016, 09:30 PM

So my throw out bearing fucking exploded at 3am last week.

Right after like 10 fucking hours of wrenching and tuning to get it back on the street.

Joy.

Anyway, which clutch looks better or are they both toast.

My 6 year old Spec.

The Exeddy that came with the swap and I shelved 6 years ago since I already had a new Spec.

And the flywheel. 2 fucking bolts snapped like god damn pretzel sticks.

ProjectPanda13 · 03-19-2016, 09:37 PM

I am considering upgrading my springs on my Cusco Zero-2r, 7kg/5kg, to something like 9kg/7kg or even 10kg/8kg from Swift. Could the shock handle the stiffer spring rate? Does anyone know the diameter and length by chance. I haven't pulled .you coil overs off to measure.

Latez.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

kashira kureijii · 03-19-2016, 10:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Corbic

The Exeddy that came with the swap and I shelved 6 years ago since I already had a new Spec.

not gonna act like a badass or anything, but the exedy looks like it has a lot more material left on it, whereas the material on the spec looks pretty worn.

so exedy clutch disk and pressure plate?

the oem style exedy clutches aren't supposed to be super badass or anything, so I don't know how much you could abuse or what power setup you run or whatever.

I have the same clutch for my sr, and I like it, it is very smooth engagement

derass · 03-19-2016, 10:32 PM

It looks like the Exedy disc looks like it has a bit more life. You can compare the two disc by checking their wear limits as shown below. The OEM spec might not be exact for those aftermarket discs, but it'll give you an idea of what Nissan considers worn out.

The surface rust on the Exedy pressure plate doesn't look great, but you could clean it up yourself with a sanding block, sand paper glued down to a table or take it to a machine shop and have them run it over a bench sander.

ps. It's interesting to see that your Exedy disc has some stray fibers around the outer diameter. When I replaced mine, it had the same thing, but much worse, chips of the material missing around the outer edge too. It had as much material thickness as the new disc I put in, but I suppose the shock of clutch kicking was too much. I only had 5-10 events on it.

Corbic · 03-19-2016, 10:42 PM

So the Exedy is the OEM clutch?

derass · 03-19-2016, 10:48 PM

I'm not sure. If your run that part number you'll see that it comes back as an "OEM Clutch Disc" for KA/SR. However, it might be an aftermarket replacement despite Exedy being the OEM for Nissan, meaning that your engine might not have come equipped with that clutch kit from the factory; that it was replaced at some point.

Corbic · 03-19-2016, 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by derass

I'm not sure. If your run that part number you'll see that it comes back as an "OEM Clutch Disc" for KA/SR. However, it might be an aftermarket replacement despite Exedy being the OEM for Nissan, meaning that your engine might not have come equipped with that clutch kit from the factory; that it was replaced at some point.

I'll check tomorrow. I had just assume someone replaced the OEM clutch at some point since it had a bright purple cover.

derass · 03-19-2016, 11:00 PM

I agree. If it were a Nissan part, I don't think the hub would be purple.

kashira kureijii · 03-20-2016, 07:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Corbic

So the Exedy is the OEM clutch?

no it isn't, my sr had the original clutch in it, and the disk, and pressure plate will have nissan stamped on it.

did you keep the throwout bearing for the exedy? because all dat shit is different size throwout, between exedy and stock etc.
maybe even different size/style throwout between exedy and spec,

Corbic · 03-20-2016, 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kashira kureijii

no it isn't, my sr had the original clutch in it, and the disk, and pressure plate will have nissan stamped on it.

did you keep the throwout bearing for the exedy? because all dat shit is different size throwout, between exedy and stock etc.

maybe even different size/style throwout between exedy and spec,

SPEC did not come with a TOB.

I do not recall anything remarkable with the original TOB in the trans 6 years ago.

03-19-2016, 01:44 PM	#19429
Kaiba Zilvia Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Monterey, California Age: 28 Posts: 211 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Timing chain fucked, oil in coolant. What do? My single cam rattles when started and sometimes when idling. I figure it's the dreaded timing chain issue. It would also explain why my coolant keeps turning black, and my motor smells like it's burning all the time. Is it worth trying fix all this shit? Or would it be more cost effective to just buy a new motor?

03-17-2016, 03:46 PM	#19413
Javi802 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Oklahoma Age: 32 Posts: 472 Trader Rating: (10) Feedback Score: 10 reviews	Have you tried buyautoparts.com?

03-17-2016, 06:43 PM	#19416
AllThingsGravy Zilvia Addict Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Somewhere in Cali Age: 30 Posts: 612 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	Quick Q: I have the oem intake piping for the sr20, what do I do with the 2 nipples? I have a fmic with no nipple on the hot pipe. Should I plug them both up? I'm new to the SR world and lost at the moment..

03-17-2016, 07:45 PM	#19417
Javi802 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Oklahoma Age: 32 Posts: 472 Trader Rating: (10) Feedback Score: 10 reviews	If im not mistaken, one hole is for a re-circulation valve, one is for the crankcase vent and im not sure what the small one is for. I just plugged the small one. If youre not recirculating your bov then you can plug that one.

03-17-2016, 08:43 PM	#19419
Javi802 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Oklahoma Age: 32 Posts: 472 Trader Rating: (10) Feedback Score: 10 reviews	The waste gate nipple needs to go to a boost source. I had a bung for a nipple fitting welded on my hot pipe. Ive heard of people using the nipple under the throttle body for the wastegate, but im unsure as to whether or not that is ideal. The intake manifold is obviously going to be pressurized so i dont see why it wouldnt work, but i like that my vacuum line only has to be run about 6 inches/

03-17-2016, 09:07 PM	#19421
Javi802 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Oklahoma Age: 32 Posts: 472 Trader Rating: (10) Feedback Score: 10 reviews	The left nipple is what goes to the fpr. The right is what goes to the bov. At least thats how i have it. Not sure if it matters being as how both ports go in to the manifold. One nipple is larger though so that may change the amount of vacuum those sources see? Not sure. You dont need a boost controller if you dont intend on on playing with your boost pressure, which i wouldnt. Either way you will still need a source for your wastgate.

03-17-2016, 10:49 PM	#19423
derass Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Toronto, ON Age: 36 Posts: 1,182 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I would not do that for two reasons: 1) The wastegate diaphragm is not designed to experience vacuum. It may tear and no longer control boost pressure. 2) The length of that hose would be far too long and cause boost spike You should either weld a nipple to the hot pipe, tap the compressor outlet pipe or use a "Quick-tap" from ATP

03-18-2016, 10:40 PM	#19425
derass Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Toronto, ON Age: 36 Posts: 1,182 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	The intake pipe won't work, it doesn't see boost pressure. The ideal source for the wastegate signal is closest to the compressor housing so that it can respond quickly. I had my quicktap on the coupler between the compressor outlet pipe and hotpipe. Now, I have a fitting tapped into the compressor outlet pipe. It's cheaper, but more difficult to get right the first time of you're not experinced tapping curved surfaces.

03-18-2016, 11:21 PM	#19427
AllThingsGravy Zilvia Addict Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Somewhere in Cali Age: 30 Posts: 612 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	I have another question now... is this the oem red top outlet pipe? My hot pipe sits too high and the hood doesn't close. I Googled the oem one and it looks like the oem one sits more straight up.

03-19-2016, 09:30 PM	#19431
Corbic Post Whore! Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: US Age: 40 Posts: 8,226 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	So my throw out bearing fucking exploded at 3am last week. Right after like 10 fucking hours of wrenching and tuning to get it back on the street. Joy. Anyway, which clutch looks better or are they both toast. My 6 year old Spec. The Exeddy that came with the swap and I shelved 6 years ago since I already had a new Spec. And the flywheel. 2 fucking bolts snapped like god damn pretzel sticks.

03-19-2016, 09:37 PM	#19432
ProjectPanda13 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Atlanta, GA Age: 36 Posts: 637 Trader Rating: (9) Feedback Score: 9 reviews	I am considering upgrading my springs on my Cusco Zero-2r, 7kg/5kg, to something like 9kg/7kg or even 10kg/8kg from Swift. Could the shock handle the stiffer spring rate? Does anyone know the diameter and length by chance. I haven't pulled .you coil overs off to measure. Latez. Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

03-19-2016, 10:32 PM	#19434
derass Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Toronto, ON Age: 36 Posts: 1,182 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	It looks like the Exedy disc looks like it has a bit more life. You can compare the two disc by checking their wear limits as shown below. The OEM spec might not be exact for those aftermarket discs, but it'll give you an idea of what Nissan considers worn out. The surface rust on the Exedy pressure plate doesn't look great, but you could clean it up yourself with a sanding block, sand paper glued down to a table or take it to a machine shop and have them run it over a bench sander. ps. It's interesting to see that your Exedy disc has some stray fibers around the outer diameter. When I replaced mine, it had the same thing, but much worse, chips of the material missing around the outer edge too. It had as much material thickness as the new disc I put in, but I suppose the shock of clutch kicking was too much. I only had 5-10 events on it.

03-19-2016, 10:42 PM	#19435
Corbic Post Whore! Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: US Age: 40 Posts: 8,226 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	So the Exedy is the OEM clutch?

03-19-2016, 10:48 PM	#19436
derass Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Toronto, ON Age: 36 Posts: 1,182 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I'm not sure. If your run that part number you'll see that it comes back as an "OEM Clutch Disc" for KA/SR. However, it might be an aftermarket replacement despite Exedy being the OEM for Nissan, meaning that your engine might not have come equipped with that clutch kit from the factory; that it was replaced at some point.

03-19-2016, 11:00 PM	#19438
derass Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Toronto, ON Age: 36 Posts: 1,182 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I agree. If it were a Nissan part, I don't think the hub would be purple.