Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[Dboyizmlg]

Originally Posted by TonyToniTuna

Anyone have any suggestions as to where to get a new/reman steering rack for a S13 online?

Rockauto.com

have you tried them? ^

[TonyToniTuna]

Originally Posted by Dboyizmlg

Rockauto.com

have you tried them? ^

I forgot about rock auto smh. Gonna see what they have. I saw there is an ebay store "Detroitaxle" selling them for 230? Any reviews on those?

EDIT: Just checked rockauto and saw that they sell the "A1cardone" rack. I heard those were not that great?

[MightyMouse13]

I'm probably just being paranoid but wanted to ask this question anyway;

I bought some used SPL toe arms, which I didn't realize the previous owner had put loctite red on to keep them in place. During the fight to adjust them, the distal end bent. I heated it up and bent it back as close to normal as possible, then completed my alignment. Car is driving fine now, but just wanted some piece of mind that it shouldn't cause major issues in the near future. Either way, I will probably end up buying a new set just to be sure.

The red lines in this picture basically show a slight exaggeration of how they are bent as of now:

[kashira kureijii]

so I got my rb25 in and am getting it all ready to go, and I have noticed that you can't mount the fan shroud onto my mishimoto radiator without it hitting the power steering and crank pulley.
That's fine, upon researching it I see that everyone puts the fans up front and makes em push through the rad.

My question is, is it alright to use the little fan mount ziptie thingys, and how does one convert the fans to push instead of pull. I was thinking I could just reverse the two wires but that obviously won't work because there is only two wires (not three phase). do I turn the blades around or something?

[codyace]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

I'll defer to your experience.... The kouki had a Bosal. Sentra's was not Calsonic, nor Bosal, but some random US made stuff that simply rusted straight to hell before the car even started to rust.

This would be a great subject over brews and fire cooked food

I used Calsonic very 'openly' but to date I've never had a full, top to bottom, tank to tank, radiator in full metal this side of super old stuff (namely domestic cars/trucks) to have 'full metal' radiators.

Would you happen to have pictures of them?

I'm seriously baffled if they had metal end tank setups as I've never EVER had one haha. And I've cut the ends off a bunch for scrap too (oh the horirble ness of me lol)


And beers and fire cooked food? That means we're not even talking cars :P haha.

[Slicerwolf]

I got new injectors and now my car is running rich on boost. I have an AEM ems and unsure what values I must amend to fix this issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[codyace]

Originally Posted by Crazyced

I usually grease them. I find it helps to seal on the manifold. I'd try grease before RTV.

Also make sure there's no dirt stuck in there that would push the grommet aside.

Grease for sure, i'd take it all apart, inspect all rubber o rings and the sort, and slap it back together.

Vasoline works great, as does SuperLube

Originally Posted by mau5trap

is there suppose to be some sort of bushing that goes in the hole where the clutch pedal connects to the cmc rod?

Yup, it's like a little plastic 'top hat' that sticks in and then you can't push it through anymore.

Originally Posted by TonyToniTuna

I forgot about rock auto smh. Gonna see what they have. I saw there is an ebay store "Detroitaxle" selling them for 230? Any reviews on those?

EDIT: Just checked rockauto and saw that they sell the "A1cardone" rack. I heard those were not that great?

All the same stuff, some are good, soem aren't. Same with any remanned unit.

Originally Posted by MightyMouse13

I bought some used SPL toe arms, which I didn't realize the previous owner had put loctite red on to keep them in place. During the fight to adjust them, the distal end bent. I heated it up and bent it back as close to normal as possible, then completed my alignment. Car is driving fine now, but just wanted some piece of mind that it shouldn't cause major issues in the near future. Either way, I will probably end up buying a new set just to be sure.

The red lines in this picture basically show a slight exaggeration of how they are bent as of now:

It's probably 100% ok, bent or not so long as it aligns straight.

With that said, if you're that concerned you can always have a local welder repair it too.

Originally Posted by kashira kureijii

My question is, is it alright to use the little fan mount ziptie thingys, and how does one convert the fans to push instead of pull. I was thinking I could just reverse the two wires but that obviously won't work because there is only two wires (not three phase). do I turn the blades around or something?

You can mount them that way, but you'll want to get PUSHER fans. Reverse polarity won't make the air flow different, as you'd need to swap the balde direction too.

Originally Posted by Slicerwolf

I got new injectors and now my car is running rich on boost. I have an AEM ems and unsure what values I must amend to fix this issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Take it to someone who can tune the car.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by codyace

I used Calsonic very 'openly' but to date I've never had a full, top to bottom, tank to tank, radiator in full metal this side of super old stuff (namely domestic cars/trucks) to have 'full metal' radiators.

Would you happen to have pictures of them?

I'm seriously baffled if they had metal end tank setups as I've never EVER had one haha. And I've cut the ends off a bunch for scrap too (oh the horirble ness of me lol)


And beers and fire cooked food? That means we're not even talking cars :P haha.

Sorry, no photos of stock stuff. It's all been replaced by ISIS from Enjuku.

You would love the fire cooked food and beer thing here, and cars, specifically 240SX's and Skyline's are pretty much all anyone talks about, well that and drifting or the next 'trace' run

[codyace]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

Sorry, no photos of stock stuff. It's all been replaced by ISIS from Enjuku.

You would love the fire cooked food and beer thing here, and cars, specifically 240SX's and Skyline's are pretty much all anyone talks about, well that and drifting or the next 'trace' run

Haha . I just want the smoked meat! jk jk jk

[Jorgs_7]

Originally Posted by Slicerwolf

I got new injectors and now my car is running rich on boost. I have an AEM ems and unsure what values I must amend to fix this issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

you need to either change the Set-up Wizard for your exact injectors,

Or find the battery offset spec (6v to 16v) from manufacturer

then use one of the drop down tabs at the top (cant recall which at the moment),

Allows you to insert your old injectors @ 43 PSI, then insert new injectors @ 43psi, and it will scale the fuel map for you.

I did this a couple days ago.

Originally Posted by codyace

Grease for sure, i'd take it all apart, inspect all rubber o rings and the sort, and slap it back together.

Vasoline works great, as does SuperLube

I have such a hard time believing that grease helps seal a vacuum leak... maybe Im over thinking. I get a vibe that a little RTV would be better.

[Crazyced]

What do you guys think of these kits? It's exactly what I'm looking for when I'll be lapping the car and the warning lights are definitly a nice addition. The only downside is that they are 2 5/8" gauges and I'm not sure I'll be able to fit all three in the radio bezel even If I do my own back plate.

https://www.allstarperformance.com/p...&part=ALL80112

I'm thinking of getting the ALL80112

[mau5trap]

Originally Posted by codyace

Yup, it's like a little plastic 'top hat' that sticks in and then you can't push it through anymore.

Thanks for the response!!!
It looks like mine has it but for some reason the metal pin that goes through it is too small causing is to move around a little. Is this normal?

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by codyace

Haha . I just want the smoked meat! jk jk jk

It's a bit of a drive for you, so when we get things fired up in Spring, I'll let you know a month or so in advance. We smoke ribs, brisket, and pork butt(pulled pork), and chicken for those non mat eaters.

I know Grimm, Levi, and a few others lurk here and they can attest to the quality of the stuff that hits the table

[Slicerwolf]

Originally Posted by Jorgs_7

you need to either change the Set-up Wizard for your exact injectors,

Or find the battery offset spec (6v to 16v) from manufacturer

then use one of the drop down tabs at the top (cant recall which at the moment),

Allows you to insert your old injectors @ 43 PSI, then insert new injectors @ 43psi, and it will scale the fuel map for you.

I did this a couple days ago.

Thanks for responding. I did that when I first got the injectors. I'm thinking about adjusting the boost fuel trim. Here is a picture of the current chart.

[Aftermarke7]

I'm looking for a random ass part because my 240 is actually missing them.

I am in need of the two rubber stoppers, one on each side of the hatch, that support the hatch when its closed. Lacking these causes the hatch to drop lower then the fenders and it looks "off".... mainly because it IS "off" lol

Anyone reading this know what these are even called or where to buy them new?

[kashira kureijii]

http://www.frsport.com/Nissan-65822-...r_p_32864.html

you might make these or the outer hood ones work, or look up the part number and order them from nissan or courtesy nissan or wherever oem parts are sold

[gerson408]

does anyone know if PBM sells replacement parts for Tension rods.

[Jorgs_7]

Originally Posted by Slicerwolf

Thanks for responding. I did that when I first got the injectors. I'm thinking about adjusting the boost fuel trim. Here is a picture of the current chart.

How experienced are you with engine management? That map plays a huge role with fuel delivery. But id be careful if you're street tuning, let alone by yourself.

[Gingersmurf]

What wheels are these? Seen them before but i can't for the life of me remember the name.

[kashira kureijii]

Originally Posted by Gingersmurf

What wheels are these? Seen them before but i can't for the life of me remember the name.

I believe those are weds zeta 03's

They can only be purchased of Yahoo auctions man. major baller stuff

[Gingersmurf]

Originally Posted by kashira kureijii

I believe those are weds zeta 03's

They can only be purchased of Yahoo auctions man. major baller stuff

After many many hours of searching, I found that they are AME Shallen LX Wheels. Thank you for replying though

[kashira kureijii]

Originally Posted by Gingersmurf

After many many hours of searching, I found that they are AME Shallen LX Wheels. Thank you for replying though

there is no such wheel as a weds zeta 03........i thought it was kinda obvious....
............you're welcome I guess. ..........I feel bad now.......I mean it was sorta funny right?

[Slicerwolf]

Originally Posted by Jorgs_7

How experienced are you with engine management? That map plays a huge role with fuel delivery. But id be careful if you're street tuning, let alone by yourself.

Very inexperienced. I have yet to touch this map. I'm probably gonna use the values that were on the base map. What are my biggest risks of adjusting it by myself?


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[Dmoss]

So I have an 1989 s13 coupe, completely stock and automatic. I've been working on it to get it running and it was fine, until I noticed that the exhaust manifold on the right did not have any bolts or a gasket, which I think may have tripped out the O2 sensor and making it run rich. That I know is a problem I have to fix. However, one day I drove to school (It ran bad but it still ran/drove fine) and on my way back home I ran into some issues. Firstly, I was going around 55mph when I heard a loud grinding sound. After that, the rpms started going down and me pressing the gas pedal did not change anything. Thirdly, the engine finally stopped and everything locked up. I'm not sure if I put it in neutral at this point but I was able to pull it in a side street. After stopping, I tried turning the car back on but all I heard was a buzzing sound. An observation I had without checking the actual dash is the temperature of the engine was very hot. Also, I checked the starter without taking it out yet and I saw a loose plug I have no idea where it goes I can't find anything. Sooo I'm just wondering if: Do I just need a new starter? Is my engine seized? How big of an issue is this? I'm taking out the starter soon I just wanted to know if anyone had any experience with this issue. Thanks!

[Psychomoongoose]

Can this be repaired, or do I need another connector with a couple inches of wires sticking out of it?

http://imgur.com/GzOi7No

[AllThingsGravy]

Does anyone know where I can get a black carpet with the cutouts and I'm talking black black not that faded black look. Thanks

[5280VertDET]

Originally Posted by AllThingsGravy

Does anyone know where I can get a black carpet with the cutouts and I'm talking black black not that faded black look. Thanks

Bought mine from stock interiors, fit is 9/10. The back foot wells near the drive shaft hump are the worst, but no one is back there.

Also, the "not being cut" wasn't that bad, just slit it down the middle with the OE carpet over top. Then install and trim the sides and center console. The seat holes weren't that hard, just have a sharp knife to cut the holes out.

[AllThingsGravy]

Originally Posted by 5280VertDET

Bought mine from stock interiors, fit is 9/10. The back foot wells near the drive shaft hump are the worst, but no one is back there.

Also, the "not being cut" wasn't that bad, just slit it down the middle with the OE carpet over top. Then install and trim the sides and center console. The seat holes weren't that hard, just have a sharp knife to cut the holes out.

Hmm alright man I'll have to check it out thanks-

[LI NY 240sx]

Originally Posted by 5280VertDET

Bought mine from stock interiors, fit is 9/10. The back foot wells near the drive shaft hump are the worst, but no one is back there.



Also, the "not being cut" wasn't that bad, just slit it down the middle with the OE carpet over top. Then install and trim the sides and center console. The seat holes weren't that hard, just have a sharp knife to cut the holes out.

I'm looking to get one of these also. What's up with the rear foot wells by the driveshaft?

[Jorgs_7]

Originally Posted by Slicerwolf

Very inexperienced. I have yet to touch this map. I'm probably gonna use the values that were on the base map. What are my biggest risks of adjusting it by myself?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you have to ask what are the risks, Id try to research/learn about tuning internal combustion engines.. There are 14 videos on YouTube about explanations and initial set up on your AEM series 2. I suggest watching all 14 and take notes. (its actually extremely informative)

Risks are uncontrolled detonation, lean conditions, etc. All can lead to engine damage if not careful. Watch the wideband closely.

Originally Posted by Psychomoongoose

Can this be repaired, or do I need another connector with a couple inches of wires sticking out of it?

http://imgur.com/GzOi7No

You "could" cut the wires about 6" back and slip heat shrink over each wire (adhesive lined is best). Only if the wires aren't frayed. Then re-connect wires appropriately.