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Old 11-14-2015, 01:34 PM   #18811
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Or what is a better way of repairing stripped threads in the head for those bolts?

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Old 11-16-2015, 11:19 AM   #18812
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Will an S13 SR20DET MAF adapter fit on the S14/15 SR MAF? Most of my searches are turning up either S13 SR or Z32 MAF adapters. Not sure if there's a size difference between the S13 & S14 SR MAFS.
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Old 11-16-2015, 11:26 AM   #18813
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Will an S13 SR20DET MAF adapter fit on the S14/15 SR MAF? Most of my searches are turning up either S13 SR or Z32 MAF adapters. Not sure if there's a size difference between the S13 & S14 SR MAFS.
should work, if it doesnt... get a drill bit out and make the holes a bit bigger.
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Old 11-16-2015, 10:29 PM   #18814
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So going to change out the vehicle speed sensor on my 89 s13 it's a manual and the speed sensor I bought brand new doesn't come with the gear. My question is are all the gears the same? I found over at courtesy parts part number PINION-SPEEDOMETER - NISSAN (32743-71T20) is this what I need?


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Old 11-17-2015, 10:10 PM   #18815
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Am I suppose to connect the hoses from the heatcore piping to these two piping??
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Old 11-18-2015, 10:21 AM   #18816
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Rb20 Swap, used zerolift mounts.

front end of driveshaft is all the way in the rb20 transmission with no gape, its basically flush but when I try to hook up the rear end to the differential. Its like .5 inch too long the metal piece is hitting the differnetial metal piece ( i know that didnt make sense but I cant explain it any other way). This driveshaft is non abs and from a 5speed.

Is there anyway I can try to make this fit?

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Old 11-18-2015, 11:14 AM   #18817
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JrDarknes View Post
Rb20 Swap, used zerolift mounts.

front end of driveshaft is all the way in the rb20 transmission with no gape, its basically flush but when I try to hook up the rear end to the differential. Its like .5 inch too long the flange yoke is hitting the input flange. This driveshaft is non abs and from a 5speed.

Is there anyway I can try to make this fit?
Looks like a tight fit but could work. Try unbolting the differential, attaching the driveshaft and then reinstalling the diff. My old KA one piece was similar and I had to do that.

Otherwise it shouldn't be too costly to just get the driveshaft shortened...but then again you are doing RB20 swap haha, I understand trying to keep costs down..
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Old 11-18-2015, 12:16 PM   #18818
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I am not a fan of shortened driveshafts, and do not think it is needed in this case.
You need to loosen the nuts on your motor mounts, the nuts on your tranny mount, and if you want/need to, loosen the nuts and bolts on your differential to give you wiggle room.
The problem you are having is what I faced bolting a non-ABS driveshaft into a car where an ABS one was needed. The non-ABS driveshafts are about a half-inch/ three-quarters of an inch longer.

I loosened all those nuts/bolts and dipped the differential and driveshaft down to the floor. The physics/geometry of a square/right angle triangle will give you that tiny bit of extra space to wiggle/angle that protruding part of the driveshaft into the inner circle of the differential.

EDIT: hope what I said made sense...
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Old 11-20-2015, 12:10 AM   #18819
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So my car came originally with power locks and Windows (89 240sx coupe) and I need to replace one of my doors. Well anyways I came across a very clean door with not even a ding on it. Only problem is its manual. What's the process in putting em on my car? Can I just swap the guts out of the power door to the manual door? If any done this before and can pm me or whatever it would greatly be appreciated!


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Old 11-20-2015, 06:50 AM   #18820
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So my car came originally with power locks and Windows (89 240sx coupe) and I need to replace one of my doors. Well anyways I came across a very clean door with not even a ding on it. Only problem is its manual. What's the process in putting em on my car? Can I just swap the guts out of the power door to the manual door? If any done this before and can pm me or whatever it would greatly be appreciated!
Yes, you can swap the guts into the replacement door. I used to do this all the time when I worked in a body shop and were using used parts.
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Old 11-20-2015, 03:05 PM   #18821
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Say guys I need help got a red top it started knocking. Crankshaft I need 2111 grade. Bearing but the ones I pull out were. all 0s. Why would it be like that I don't know anything about the motor but it's stock Sr. Please. Help me out
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Old 11-20-2015, 06:00 PM   #18822
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Say guys I need help got a red top it started knocking. Crankshaft I need 2111 grade. Bearing but the ones I pull out were. all 0s. Why would it be like that I don't know anything about the motor but it's stock Sr. Please. Help me out
?????????what?

well from all that relatively undecipherable English I will say this
Buy the bearings you need online, clevite acl etc. I don't know what the fuck your talking about with 0 grade or whatever

Honestly, if you want someone to take the time to answer you, you should take the time to write in english
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Old 11-20-2015, 08:15 PM   #18823
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I support the request for proper grammar.
EDIT: wrong info...
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Old 11-21-2015, 11:03 AM   #18824
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Okay so I've had this sr20det s13 for a little while now, when I first got it it seemed like it had a bad turbo when I got into boost about 3k it seemed like it just didn't boost at all, had no power! Soooo I just put the new turbo in because I thought the turbo was bad, which it was completely blown but after just getting the new turbo in and everything hooked up still feels like it doesn't have much power, as well as it idle's a little high at 1500, I can hear the turbo spool up fine and has brand new gaskets so it shouldn't be leaking from their, idk any help would be great thanks!
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Old 11-24-2015, 03:34 PM   #18825
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bleakley View Post

I loosened all those nuts/bolts and dipped the differential and driveshaft down to the floor. The physics/geometry of a square/right angle triangle will give you that tiny bit of extra space to wiggle/angle that protruding part of the driveshaft into the inner circle of the differential.

EDIT: hope what I said made sense...
This worked, Thank you very much. Turned my shitty week into a less shitty week haha.
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Old 11-24-2015, 07:59 PM   #18826
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Tried to install my Tomei pan and it's not clearing the power steering lines. Wanted to see if anyone else has had this problem.
Excuse the mega-gunk.


It kinda looks like you could just shove it up and on at an angle but it still doesn't fit cause the line bends up and in.


Does it seem like the engine is sitting really far back on the cross member? Other pictures I've seen seemed like there was a good few inches between the pan and the cross member but mine is pretty much flush.
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Old 11-24-2015, 08:13 PM   #18827
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PBM vs. Silk road coilovers. which one would you choose?
Same difference
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Old 11-24-2015, 11:28 PM   #18828
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Does it seem like the engine is sitting really far back on the cross member? Other pictures I've seen seemed like there was a good few inches between the pan and the cross member but mine is pretty much flush.
Maybe it's because of old, compressed engine mounts.
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Old 11-25-2015, 05:22 AM   #18829
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Quote:
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Tried to install my Tomei pan and it's not clearing the power steering lines. Wanted to see if anyone else has had this problem.
Excuse the mega-gunk.


It kinda looks like you could just shove it up and on at an angle but it still doesn't fit cause the line bends up and in.


Does it seem like the engine is sitting really far back on the cross member? Other pictures I've seen seemed like there was a good few inches between the pan and the cross member but mine is pretty much flush.
worst case scenario, remove that ps line... it's just your "ps cooling line" a lot of people delete it. If you want, you could even reroute it to an oil cooler, but unless you track your car for long periods of time, it's not really necessary. But you could try to unclip it, and moving it out of the way until you get the pan on.
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Old 11-25-2015, 09:19 AM   #18830
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Grab some braided lines, problem solved. Those hardlines are annoying af sometimes..
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Old 11-25-2015, 06:23 PM   #18831
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So, I am putting some new pads and rotors on all 4 wheels, and I am coming into a problem with the rear brake calipers. I have squished the caliper piston in a vise (not too hard, just as much as it will go easily) to give me the space I need, but there still isn't enough room for the loaded caliper with the pads to slip over the rotor. I don't want to force it or anything, and there isn't much space, Do I need rebuilt calipers? both of them don't seem to have much space, Is there some trick I am missing here?
They are original 200k calipers.....
On my other 240 I took of the rear pads to check for wear, and they re-installed just fine... so it leads me to think something is up with these calipers. I didn't drive the car much, as I bought it with a blown auto tranny, so I don't really know how they were reacting before. They were pretty tight when I took them off, if that means anything....
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Old 11-25-2015, 06:47 PM   #18832
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have any pics of the caliper? I have a feeling you just haven't compressed them enough. when going with new rotors and pads, that's a lot of material to stuff in a caliper, so you should have to compress the piston more than you ever have when just doing pads. Not calling you stupid, but you are rotating the rear pistons to compress, right? they don't press straight in like the fronts.

This should help... I only watched the first 20 seconds, but he's using the same tool I do, so I doubt he'll lead you astray...
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=nQm7eVOv8ik
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Old 11-25-2015, 06:55 PM   #18833
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have any pics of the caliper? I have a feeling you just haven't compressed them enough. when going with new rotors and pads, that's a lot of material to stuff in a caliper, so you should have to compress the piston more than you ever have when just doing pads. Not calling you stupid, but you are rotating the rear pistons to compress, right? they don't press straight in like the fronts.
damn......, I'll try that tomorrow, I don't have an insane amount of caliper experience, so I didn't know. Do they have a certain direction of rotation, like clockwise or counter-clockwise, or do you just mean rock em back and forth while you press on em? Its dark here, so I don't have a pic, but I'll try that tomorrow, I didn't think there was like a method to it, other than just pressing them back, putting the pads in, and sliding them on.... didn't think thats how the pistons worked, thought they just go straight in and out.......

They seemed to be in pretty good condition, so I'll try that tomorrow and see how it works out. If not, I'll just go to the auto parts store and swap em for some rebuilt ones
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Old 11-25-2015, 07:10 PM   #18834
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So, I am putting some new pads and rotors on all 4 wheels, and I am coming into a problem with the rear brake calipers. I have squished the caliper piston in a vise (not too hard, just as much as it will go easily) to give me the space I need, but there still isn't enough room for the loaded caliper with the pads to slip over the rotor. I don't want to force it or anything, and there isn't much space, Do I need rebuilt calipers? both of them don't seem to have much space, Is there some trick I am missing here?
They are original 200k calipers.....
On my other 240 I took of the rear pads to check for wear, and they re-installed just fine... so it leads me to think something is up with these calipers. I didn't drive the car much, as I bought it with a blown auto tranny, so I don't really know how they were reacting before. They were pretty tight when I took them off, if that means anything....

Are you pressing while rotating the piston clockwise?
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Old 11-25-2015, 07:16 PM   #18835
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Are you pressing while rotating the piston clockwise?
no, is that a thing? I'll try it, I've never heard of doing that from anybody I learned from, but I'll give it a try when I get to it tomorrow. I guess thats what your supposed to do huh? might have been a good Idea for me to look it up before yolo swagging my way into it, I just figured that it works like every other caliper

I'll try that tomorow,
Thanks guys
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Old 11-25-2015, 07:46 PM   #18836
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ur supposed to rotate the caliper while pressing inwards with a pair of needle nose pliers (notice the 4 little grooves) on OE rear calipers to get the piston to retract/compress...
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Old 11-25-2015, 08:01 PM   #18837
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no, is that a thing? I'll try it, I've never heard of doing that from anybody I learned from, but I'll give it a try when I get to it tomorrow. I guess thats what your supposed to do huh? might have been a good Idea for me to look it up before yolo swagging my way into it, I just figured that it works like every other caliper

I'll try that tomorow,
Thanks guys
Yup, it's a thing. Needle nose pliers, or you can use a tool from auto store that connects to a ratchet and fits in the indentations on the rear calipers. I find the tool safer to use, needle nose slipped and stabbed my hand many years ago.

FYI, it's only rear calipers with an integrated e-brake that need to be "screwed" back in. Others can simply be pushed in like normal.

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Old 11-25-2015, 08:10 PM   #18838
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no, is that a thing? I'll try it, I've never heard of doing that from anybody I learned from, but I'll give it a try when I get to it tomorrow. I guess thats what your supposed to do huh? might have been a good Idea for me to look it up before yolo swagging my way into it, I just figured that it works like every other caliper

I'll try that tomorow,
Thanks guys
Depending on how hard/much you compressed them in the vice, you might have fucked them up. Watch them real close after you get it all put back together, if they leak or feel funny, replace them.
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Old 11-25-2015, 08:14 PM   #18839
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Thanks guys, I had no idea, I'm glad I asked, because now I know.
That's a good thing to know, I guess my dad never told me about it when he taught me back in the day, probably because he's old school and used to working on old shit, ie probably stuff that didn't have integrated e-brake parts

Thanks dudes
that'll help me not break shit in the future hahaha
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Old 11-25-2015, 08:15 PM   #18840
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: nation of Texas
Age: 28
Posts: 1,302
Trader Rating: (4)
kashira kureijii is making his/her stupidity well-knownkashira kureijii is making his/her stupidity well-knownkashira kureijii is making his/her stupidity well-knownkashira kureijii is making his/her stupidity well-known
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kuma View Post
Depending on how hard/much you compressed them in the vice, you might have fucked them up. Watch them real close after you get it all put back together, if they leak or feel funny, replace them.
gotcha, I'll keep an eye on em,

wish I had looked it up before just going straight into it like that
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigs View Post
Just get a big sticker that says "copyright infringement"
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