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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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09-02-2015, 01:53 PM | #18571 |
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Just replaced my early s13 blacktop sr20det coolant temp sensor yesterday. I'm glad it it stays stable however, when I boost or gas a lot, my stock gauge needle drops a lot then stabilizes after awhile.
Would the sender for this be bad or possibly air bubbles on my coolant system? Trying to fix this before I head to the track on Monday.
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09-02-2015, 02:07 PM | #18572 | |
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09-03-2015, 07:20 AM | #18573 | |
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You may also log on to facebook, search for Js4Kix Lifestyle, and I'll put a boot in my freind's ass to see if we can beat other prices due to shipping to you
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09-03-2015, 01:44 PM | #18574 |
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JWT ECU for cheap that I can have retuned.
OR Apexi Power FC for a little more. I would have to buy the datalogit. I would also have to buy a fat O2 because it's for a blacktop. Would also have to buy/get e-mailed a base map/tune from shadowerks or enthalpy or someone. Can't decide. Purchasing one or the other this Friday. |
09-03-2015, 02:09 PM | #18575 |
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If you have a tuner you trust, pfc works fine. I really like having the commander, personally. I had Martin tune mine, but I have a datalogit so I have made a few changes since then.
There are some timing basemaps on enthalpy's site you can start with, too. |
09-03-2015, 08:26 PM | #18576 |
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Yeah, I don't really have one I know/trust around here..
So was pretty much gonna A) datalog and coordinate (if possible) with Steve or Enthalpy. Or B) Get a good base map and gingerly go about learning the trade.. |
09-04-2015, 12:55 PM | #18577 |
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Does anyone have this S15 hood (VIS drift 2)? Or know if the raised cowl part in front of the vent is raised on the underside like the origin type 2 (bottom)?
I need one raised like the origin type 2 to clear my throttle body, but the VIS is $200+ cheaper. Or does anyone know a source for the origin hood for under $700? VIS drift 2 hood Origin type 2
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09-05-2015, 12:10 PM | #18578 |
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Im wondering if anyone has converted their sil80 back to flip ups.... the issue im having is if I need to get the head light assembly with this stick circled in red (what is it btw, looks like a bracket for the motor but idk), or if its not necessary at all to have.
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09-05-2015, 05:50 PM | #18579 | |
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09-06-2015, 07:27 AM | #18583 |
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25mm IS 0.98"
The exact conversion IS 1" = 25.4mm accuracy AND precision, no approximations. Please go back to the drawing board and continue working on S14 naVan parts
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09-06-2015, 02:42 PM | #18585 |
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In the last 2 or 3 weeks I've begun to smell gas when im in my car or standing next to either door. Ive tried tracing the smell or any possible signs of wet gas on my engine but come up with nothing. I havent removed my rear seats yet but ive tried taking wiffs in the rear of my car but smell nothing. Seems the odor is only concentrated to the inside of my car.
About two weeks ago i filled up my tank and within two days was down to half a tank. I traced and calculated that i drove between 50 but no more than 60 miles in those two days and the smell was obvious. I usually drive about 120-130 miles with half a tank (LA to San Diego). Weird thing is my milage has improved. Than insident occured just once. I havent filled up since but i have filled to the 3/4 mark and its been lasting me several days before it drops to 1/4 tank. As of right now ive driven 114-124 miles with half a tank. Can someone provide ideas to what vould ve happening? The smell is still around and my poor gas milage occured just once so far and been back to normal since. By the way, i drive a 95 with a stock KA and no turbo or upgrades to the engine. Thanks in advanced. |
09-06-2015, 10:22 PM | #18586 | |
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09-06-2015, 10:23 PM | #18587 |
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I just installed Q45 front brakes on my S14. I know that it's recommended to adjust the BMC engagement rod in order to correct the pedal travel. My question is, can I remove the BMC without removing the brake lines? Would it be okay to simply bend everything out of the way, and then bend it back? Or do the lines need to be removed?
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09-07-2015, 03:27 PM | #18588 |
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Rear Camber Adjustment
I got an s14 with BC coilovers for the rear. Everything else is bone stock, how would I adjust the camber so that my car is more functional? (previous owner had the car stanced and is cambered) I'm not about that stance life please any help thanks!
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09-08-2015, 10:25 AM | #18591 |
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Kinda embaressed to ask this question but I have no experience or know nobody with one.
The wastegate is leaking in my hks gt-ss turbo. The car makes MAYBE 320whp. probably closer to 300 at 16psi. Would it be beneficial at all to go external wastegate at low power and boost? or should I just buy a new hks wastegate? for the cost an external isn't really all that much more and if it will give me better spool or slightly better power or something I'll do that. |
09-08-2015, 10:44 AM | #18592 |
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how do you know the wastegate is leaking?
and no, an external wastegate isnt going to give you better spool or better power. the wastegates job is simply to open under a certain amount of boost to allow pressure relief in the turbo to maintain said boost levels. better spool and power come from proper head work to match the size of the turbo and correct tuning. |
09-08-2015, 12:02 PM | #18593 |
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Put the wastegate on my vacuum pump in reverse and it begins opening as soon as it's turned on. Fully open before 3psi.
So better to buy an internal again? I am usually pretty adapt at turbo stuff but I don't know anyone using an ewg or have I used one. They're kinda new to me and I live in the sticks. Only sr20 for 50km at least haha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
09-08-2015, 12:23 PM | #18595 |
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It is adjustable but there doesn't seem to be tension on the rod at all barely. I can move it very easily by hand. A if the spring inside broke
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09-08-2015, 01:24 PM | #18596 |
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well then it may be time to just buy a new one. you can get an adjustable one from HKS USA for around $180 i believe. take old one off, put new one on... adjust rod to boost level required.
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09-08-2015, 01:39 PM | #18597 | ||
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And if you go with an HKS external, you should put a 'little' preload on the rod to help keep it shut as long as possible. The rod will move a little but not much, remember it's a diaphragm in there. With that said, they do go bad with heat.
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09-08-2015, 03:21 PM | #18599 |
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My car keeps dying when giving it gas and letting off I can't figure out whats wrong. I changed to new fuel pressure regulator and injectors and it is still the same with everything looking good. The MAF is a Z32 one, but I unplugged and ran it both with plug in and not and doesn't change a single thing. The car when revving it up sounds like it has a chain rattle from the engine could it be a timing issue? I set the crank pulley to TDC pulley and adjusted timing on the dizzy to the middle so should it not be correct? Here is a video of how it sounds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uRGe...ature=youtu.be
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180sx type x kouki, 1jz, 2jz, 300zx, clutch, faq, ka24de, n/a, non-turbo, question, redtop s13 180sx silvia, s14, search, solenoid, starter, z32, zenki |
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