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09-26-2013, 09:52 PM | #152 |
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I actually take auto collision repair at my high school. My first choice was auto repair but it was full so i had to settle with collision repair but its teaching me a lot about body work which is good. I will definately look into your recommended brand, thank you
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09-26-2013, 10:17 PM | #153 | |
Leaky Injector
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09-27-2013, 09:00 AM | #154 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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09-27-2013, 09:57 AM | #155 | |
Zilvia FREAK!
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You little fucking bastard!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!! dont mind me, I am just dying of jealousy! |
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09-29-2013, 08:18 PM | #156 |
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Sorry for the wait guys..Update!
Since i have so much time to wait for my turbo, i decided to start fixing the body and rust on my car. It has a ton of rust, but im happy it does. Its good for me to learn how to fix it. Anyways, got my new MIG welder this week and i went to work with it, but my welds are nothing special yet for 2 reasons. 1, i am a beginner, and 2 i am still playing with the heat and wire speed settings and figuring the perfect setting. The start of fixing that horrible plastic filler repair job that was done before i had the car. I truly regret painting with that stupid ass truck bed liner. just another mistake i learn from. Yes, my welds suck i know. brand new welder and im still playing with the adjustments, but it got the job done and it doesnt need to be a perfect bead but my welds will be getting much better soon. Turbo is still on backorder but for now i will be continuing to fix my rust, weld my diff, install my aero (no idea how) and prep for my paint job..not plastidip. |
09-30-2013, 01:23 PM | #160 |
Zilvia Member
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hey man, ive seen worse welds lol. on the first day of actual welding we got to do at vocational school you should've seen some of the welds people were putting down..
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09-30-2013, 08:37 PM | #162 | |
Zilvia FREAK!
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If you don't have a clean looking bead, it's a good idea to grind it down flush for a closer look-see, so you know if there's any spots you need to hit again. And don't forget to seal/paint the backside, it will have burnt all the paint off (and sand off the burnt crap so it will stick), and it would be a shame to have your fresh repair rust out exactly the same way. Does this mean that the (implied) plan is no longer drive it into the ground and buy an s14? *edit* a lot of welding is just feel/instinct, practice is all that will help. If you have a chance to get scrap steel, do it, and cut/weld it up every way you can, repeatedly. It will help, and is fun, too. |
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10-02-2013, 07:46 PM | #163 | |
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10-02-2013, 07:50 PM | #164 |
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Update.. Took off the blown turbo, dropped the SR in. did this because my new turbo is on backorder till november, and thats just crazy so i am going to wire the car, start body work, do everything i can and then put the turbo on and start it.
Forklifts make life easier..protected my valve cover from any scratches. Wirng mess.... |
10-02-2013, 10:40 PM | #166 |
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^^^^ True that. It sucks. The motor looks good in there though. Kinda funny that your in Auto Body, I was in Auto Repair at my school but I wanted to be in Auto body. Keep up the work
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10-03-2013, 05:04 AM | #167 |
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i know its going to be tough, but would you guys really want your motor to sit on a pallett till november? I just cant do that. I guess im too motivated to let it sit that long. Yeah auto body is good too both shops are good. Nothing better than shop all week every other week.
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10-03-2013, 06:43 AM | #168 |
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Hey man, I'm letting you know I'm in the same boat. Just bought a MIG welder; tempted to weld my diff. Don't do it. Not until you have more experience welding. If your welds come apart inside the diff, they can lock it up in a bad way. Having your wheels unexpectedly lock up on you on the highway can be dangerous.
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10-03-2013, 08:51 AM | #169 | |
Zilvia FREAK!
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10-04-2013, 03:00 PM | #173 |
Leaky Injector
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damn dude I wish I could've come across this when you were looking to get a new turbo. my buddy got a new s15 turbo for like 400 bucks and it was decently larger than the t25 and was still a t2 flange and his car absolutely yacks now... Good luck bro im started building my first 240 a year ago when I was 17, and wish I could've gotten one to build before I had gas and insurance expenses. Your in a good spot to make something sick as fuck happen dude.
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10-05-2013, 09:46 PM | #174 |
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Last night i really looked over my car. The car has so much rust that its unbelievable. My E brake wasn't working and i realized the cable is rusted apart and its snapped. I will soon need a new gas tank, all new brake lines and fuel lines, and i need to cut and weld a ton of spots on my frame. This would usually be a downer for most people, but i am happy because everything is a learning process. My plan is to never sell this car, it will probably see a million different phases, but it will be 100% one day. I also got the driveshaft in. Did it myself but it was easy cause its so light.
QUESTION: What fluids do you guys recommend for the diff, tranny, and engine? Pics: |
10-06-2013, 09:38 PM | #177 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Diff, if you're using a stock/welded one, doesn't need any special oil. I guess thicker, to make any wear smoother... wouldn't worry. Any GL-5 gear oil.
Tranny should be AMSOIL, or redline, get the one that's only rated GL-4, not GL-4/GL-5 combo. Engine, any quality oil, purolator/napa filter, and old-fashioned change intervals if you're driving hard. Last edited by mechanicalmoron; 10-07-2013 at 08:00 AM.. |
10-06-2013, 10:18 PM | #178 | |
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