Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[240PETER]

Originally Posted by vng704

short answer, yes!

haha alright cool thanks man

[kashira kureijii]

So i just bought another s13 for $600 ( $600 for obvious reasons)

anyway the battery tray is rusted out ( as you should be able to see in the photo if i didn't screw it up with my dipshittery), and the previous owner seems to have just riveted a license plate and used it as a tray . i am debating whether or not to just tub the fenders or to just cut it out and weld some new sheet metal in. I don't plan on running big dish wheels or anything like that but just wondered what anyone would recommend. Right now i have stripped the car to a shell so it will be pretty easy to do either. I don't really want to tub it but then again i don't know how hard it would be to get it back to looking stock ( i have very little welding experience ). Any recommendation would be appreciated.

Also..... .........how do you properly post photos? do you use photobucket?

[Too Fawty]

Originally Posted by krazy13

Too Fawty... Look up body electrical section switch (251) part number 25910 safety hazard switch. That help?

Thanks but that's not it. I'm not looking for an actual button. More like a "cover" or a "delete". It's directly to the right of the rear windshield wiper button and if the rear windshield wiper were to be removed it is what would be put in its place.

[bmaddock]

Does anyone know where I can find JZZ30 1JZ VVTI engine harness wiring diagram?

I've found the ECU pinout but not been as successful identifying the remaining engine harness connectors. Here's the ECU pinout if anyone has been searching:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0By-...ew?usp=sharing


Edit: Well I feel silly...started looking further into this great page with non-VVTI TT Soarer info and realized the engine harness plugs are damn near identical. I'll verify later but that would make sense that they wouldn't change general wiring of the engine but rather just alter the ECU pinout. Again, I'll verify via multimeter sometime this weekend.

http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/4...ngine%20Wiring

Edit #2: Boned, looking at some quick pictures I took last night, it appears the engine harness connectors are pinned differently. Looks like some multimeter action if no one can help me out.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by bmaddock

Does anyone know where I can find JZZ30 1JZ VVTI engine harness wiring diagram?

I've found the ECU pinout but not been as successful identifying the remaining engine harness connectors. Here's the ECU pinout if anyone has been searching:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0By-...ew?usp=sharing


Edit: Well I feel silly...started looking further into this great page with non-VVTI TT Soarer info and realized the engine harness plugs are damn near identical. I'll verify later but that would make sense that they wouldn't change general wiring of the engine but rather just alter the ECU pinout. Again, I'll verify via multimeter sometime this weekend.

http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/4...ngine%20Wiring

Edit #2: Boned, looking at some quick pictures I took last night, it appears the engine harness connectors are pinned differently. Looks like some multimeter action if no one can help me out.

Yeah, do a Facebook search for LeviLeviMelton, he has a 1JZ vvti and has all the diagrams you need. He will also answer ALL your related 1JZ swap questions too

[David48]

Originally Posted by krazy13

Oh car gods please help. I am driving my s13 stock ride height with tokico blue shocks with oem springs no other mods except an aem cold air intake. I turn on a long sweeping interchange on my way to school and suddenly my car jerk over steers into the turn. I just replaced the tie rod end and got it an alignment but the problem persists. Suggestions? Have I missed something? I already have an isis alignment kit on the way to help things in the back as I have a bent lca but I don't think that would cause this issue.

Instead of spending $350 on an ISIS kit and asking people what your issue is, why didn't you just replace the control arm that you already know is bent?

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by David48

Instead of spending $350 on an ISIS kit and asking people what your issue is, why didn't you just replace the control arm that you already know is bent?

OE arms are money and we all know this. The cost of a full set of ISIS/Godspeed/Circuit Sports arms is < $500

It's more logical since there is an issue to just suck it up and replace ALL the arms at once and be done with it, then get a proper Firestone Lifetime alignment for the $180 - $239

Pennywise and Dollar Dumb is no way to be where a 240 is concerned

[David48]

That's ridiculous. He said the lower control arm is bent. ISIS doesn't make lower control arms. A used arm can be easily had for $10. He's putting a band aid on it if he wants to fix the bent LCA with adjustable upper and toe arms. He also said he has stock springs. Unless something is really fucked up, the stock eccentric bolts should put his alignment in spec.

[cressida]

how hard would it be to fab engine mounts in an 85 Cressida for a 1jz or 2jz??

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by cressida

how hard would it be to fab engine mounts in an 85 Cressida for a 1jz or 2jz??

Don't the 7M's and JZ's use the same 'native' mounts? My friend said this was a straightforward swap..he's a Toyota freak

[Whitey13]

1989 OEM Key?

Can someone tell me which keys came with the 89 hatch when new?

I've read a few threads and have seen "S13" keys but I'd like to clarify exactly which ones came from the factory for the 89.

[bmaddock]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

Yeah, do a Facebook search for LeviLeviMelton, he has a 1JZ vvti and has all the diagrams you need. He will also answer ALL your related 1JZ swap questions too

I talked with him and he's paying somebody to wire up his harness. I might have actually helped him with finding some pinouts for his chaser swap. Thanks though!

Originally Posted by cressida

how hard would it be to fab engine mounts in an 85 Cressida for a 1jz or 2jz??

Sounds like a cool swap, but why ask on Zilvia? haha. This is neither a cressida or JZ based forum. But as Redline said, I'd imagine the stock mounts should work. Otherwise mounts are simple to make, just a matter of getting them to line up. I have a pair of stock jzz30 1jz vvti mounts if you want them..

[ashero2]

anyone know of a shop I can pass smog with a sr20? I know its damn near impossible but I have the money

[jscherf92]

Originally Posted by evilpanamajack

Help
I need to replace this An fitting. Its leaking coolant on my s13 stock red top. its like the ones that come with the isis turbo lines.


Is this a 6an female to some kind of npt male?

Looks like a regular hose end. You're just missing the sleeve section that would fit over the actual end of the hose. Those threads are just to bite into the rubber hose inside a bit.

[jscherf92]

Originally Posted by 04BlueBeach

I'm wanting to do a small rebuild on My KA24DE including Gaskets, Rings, and bearings. My cars burning and leaking lots of oil and I'm pretty sure its burning because of a ring. My question is, would it be recommended to replace anything else? Also what are some reliable brands? I'm not wanting to do a Full rebuild because I don't have a lot of money and I'm just trying to get her running right again. Sorry in advance if its already answered because I know it probably has!

For a "small rebuild" you just need a FULL gasket kit, a quality tube of RTV, rings, main and rod bearings and heat bolts/studs. Stay off ebay and you should be alright. ACL for bearings and ARP for head studs. New fluids obviously. Spend the money now or you'll be spending it later.

[David48]

If he's trying to stay on a budget then there's no need for ARP studs. New oem bolts will be fine. Then grab a fel-pro gasket kit and maybe some clevite bearings if you're so inclined to do bearings. But make sure to take the crank to a machine shop and have them measure it before buying bearings in case the crank has been cut before.

[Doktor_T]

uploadfromtaptalk1425944503386.jpg This hose needs to be replaced and I'm just trying to find a matching part number so i can replace it. Anyone know?

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by David48

If he's trying to stay on a budget then there's no need for ARP studs. New oem bolts will be fine. Then grab a fel-pro gasket kit and maybe some clevite bearings if you're so inclined to do bearings. But make sure to take the crank to a machine shop and have them measure it before buying bearings in case the crank has been cut before.

There is no such thing as a small rebuild. Pistons and rods need to be rebalanced, block needs to be align/bore honed, then you guy or as you have the shop do the aforementioned work, purchase the correct sized rings, bolts etc. OE is great for anything NA in a KA. It will even support, upon rebuild up to 345'#Tq(400~hp). With a cradled main set up, an OE balanced crank assy is fine on oe rebuild.

My question is why if you are trying to budget, have you not extended an oe rebuild to bump compression, or thought to massage your head?
A friend here just did all his own head work(days and hours), had the shop do the block(<$300), and is about to put the engine completely together in a finished state. He did this in his garage, on a budget with good hardware and gaskets, and he stayed LOW on purchased parts.
Machine shop is mandatory if you are serious about longevity

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by Doktor_T

Attachment 81779 This hose needs to be replaced and I'm just trying to find a matching part number so i can replace it. Anyone know?

The brake booster vac line?

[David48]

Go to autozone with the brake booster hose and have them get you 1 or 2 ft of the same diameter hose. It'll be $5 tops.

[corkscrew]

The ISIS t28 oil drain is very far off on my t28. Which drain can I buy that will actually fit?

[slideslidegnarslide]

^ holy shit that's a lot more than a little off lol. I believe circut sport and gktec

[corkscrew]

yeah you're telling me haha. Might just go AN instead

[dorkidori_s13]

its because you are using an S13 T25 style drain pipe on a T28. you need to cut the ends off the flange off so you can slide it back and forth to center it on turbo, but leave enough of the ends to clamp with the bolts (the key is to get ends to where you can get the bolts thru the flange). theres no pressure in the oil return line, it just drains as the turbo spins so youll be fine. the only line that has pressure is the oil sending line. the S14/S15 drain pipes dont work on the S13 SR unless you relocate your return spot on the oil pan.

[TheRealSy90]

Yep, t25 drain, my isis t28 drain fit just fine.

[corkscrew]

Guess the seller sold me the incorrect drain tube. Thanks guys

edit: This isnt the drain tube I took a picture of?

"This will make the T28 series turbo oil drain bolt on to the S13 SR20DET with no modification required."

http://www.isisperformance.com/isis-...n-tube-angled/

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by corkscrew

"This will make the T28 series turbo oil drain bolt on to the S13 SR20DET with no modification required."

http://www.isisperformance.com/isis-...n-tube-angled/

NOPE! wont work! I bought the same one from FRSport (the OEM version), and it does NOT fit.

get your flange trimmed like below and youll be fine. just replace the rubber hose with a longer one (heater hose of the same diameter with screw clamps works fine). again, theres no pressure in the line. the oil just drains down into the oil pan as it comes out of center section (there is quite a bit of it, but no pressure)

[corkscrew]

Yeah I'm 99% sure that's the drain tube as shown in the picture I posted. Guess I'll just use lines from atp or something. Thanks guys

[e1_griego]

What turbo are you using?

I'm running the OEM t28 drains on both my redtops with GTX turbos and they work fine.

[corkscrew]

14411-75F00 journal bearing t28