Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[Sumslapper]

Does anyone know if nismo lmgt1 can be reverse mounted? As in the face mounted from the inside of the barrel, instead of sitting on top of the lip.

[240cracker]

I have a graveyard of KA and SR trans that are burnt. I need space in the warehouse... Does anyone know someone who buys cores for stupid cheap? Or are these junk and I have to give them away or throw them out?

Thanks in advance

[acslater9]

Update!

Finally removed the damn screw. I then proceeded to remove the injector and successfully replaced it. The car started as soon as I turned the key, I was excited about that. But with 240's there's always another problem.

As I went to back up the car began acting up, the whole car began shaking feeling like it wanted to shut off. The lights dimmed as soon as I pressed the brakes. When I hit the gas pedal the car had a strange sound, it sounded like it didn't have any force to it. The sound was weak, which never happened before. There is NO idle issues by the way, it's just the car feels weak. Fuel pump works, as I can hear it. I think it might be fuel related but I'm not sure.

I checked all the lines, no vacuum leaks. Already checked the brake booster, looks fine.

Things I did recently to it:
Fuel filter
Spark plugs
Spark plug wires
Fuel injector (cylinder 2)

Thank you.

[hOngsterr]

might be a vacuum leak where the booster connects to intake manifold? I had that prob last time didnt detect it with brake cleaner but it def was hard and cracked.

[acslater9]

Update!

Fixed the problem. I made a rookie mistake, forgot to plug back in my 4th injector connector. Runs perfectly, thanks for all the help.

[mr.nismo.]

Ok someone please clarify. ARP sr20et flywheel bolts, torque specs? I've searched so many different sites. I have the assembly lube from them as well. I've seen:
Factory 94-101
70
60
50
Where the fuck do I need to torque them? Threads I searched ranged 2007-13. I want to obviously make sure they're where they need to be and not be too tight.


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[bc.]

Originally Posted by 240cracker

I have a graveyard of KA and SR trans that are burnt. I need space in the warehouse... Does anyone know someone who buys cores for stupid cheap? Or are these junk and I have to give them away or throw them out?

Thanks in advance

Try calling a scrap metal yard and see if they will take them? Not sure.

Originally Posted by dev71893

Ok someone please clarify. ARP sr20et flywheel bolts, torque specs? I've searched so many different sites. I have the assembly lube from them as well. I've seen:
Factory 94-101
70
60
50
Where the fuck do I need to torque them? Threads I searched ranged 2007-13. I want to obviously make sure they're where they need to be and not be too tight.


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If you don't trust the internet, you can try calling ARP, they should know.

[bc.]

Originally Posted by 240koukiSX

Do bad spark plug tube seals cause low compression?

This was answered, but if you are using a compression tester and it isn't sealed correctly, it could show low compression.

[mau5trap]

Hi, is there such a thing as a s14 kouki usdm and a s14 kouki jdm fender???

[Slicerwolf]

Originally Posted by mau5trap

Hi, is there such a thing as a s14 kouki usdm and a s14 kouki jdm fender???

Well there is a different front fender because for one thing the headlight cut outs are different


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[S14DB]

Originally Posted by mau5trap

Hi, is there such a thing as a s14 kouki usdm and a s14 kouki jdm fender???

Yes, the Kouki in japan came with different bumper. They didn't want to certify it in the US so they modified the Zenki bumper to fit the Kouki. USDM uses Zenki turn signals and corner lights. JDM Kouki Turn signals are much different.

Originally Posted by Slicerwolf

Well there is a different front fender because for one thing the headlight cut outs are different

WTF are you talking about?

[Slicerwolf]

Originally Posted by S14DB

WTF are you talking about?

I seemed too have stated my response so poorly that it didn't even make sense. I was just saying the fender are different because for one the corner lights (the cutouts for them I didn't really know another way to describe it) don't fit in the opposing models fenders.


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[zfortune]

Nevermind....

[joshls2]

Hey guys, I've some questions about replacing engine mounts.

1. in what order do I remove and replace the engine and tranny mounts during the repair?

2. what are the trq specs for the engine mount bolts.. I tighten them up, drive the car for a while then re-tighten them some more after the engine has settled?

3. is it safe to jack the engine up from the PSpump bracket and alternator bracket?


thanks.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by S14DB

Yes, the Kouki in japan came with different bumper. They didn't want to certify it in the US so they modified the Zenki bumper to fit the Kouki. USDM uses Zenki turn signals and corner lights. JDM Kouki Turn signals are much different.


WTF are you talking about?

Imma just let this one slide DB...

They did not modify a zenki bumper. Zenki bumper has nothing in common with JDM/USDM kouki bumpers except for marker and turn signal lenses. They modified the JDM bumper to retrofit zenki lights in it for USDM front ends.

The other issue one will run into on JDM vs USDM fitment is on some plugs for side marker lights, corner lights, turn signal lights and in some cases headlights.

IF you convert to a JDM kouki front, make sure you get the harnesses too so you can rewire the plugs to function correctly at each light position. When upgrading your zenki to kouki tails, JDM will need to have plugs rewired as well in many cases. USDM kouki tails should have no issues, BUT may if it is a early year model

[bmaddock]

Originally Posted by joshls2

Hey guys, I've some questions about replacing engine mounts.

1. in what order do I remove and replace the engine and tranny mounts during the repair?

2. what are the trq specs for the engine mount bolts.. I tighten them up, drive the car for a while then re-tighten them some more after the engine has settled?

3. is it safe to jack the engine up from the PSpump bracket and alternator bracket?


thanks.

1. I'd loosen up the transmission bolts so it has some play, then do one motor mount at a time. Use a floor jack with a block of wood to lift up the one side. It shouldn't take too long, make sure to tighten the new mount to the engine and then lower it down instead of bolting the mount to the subframe first. Leave the motor mounts loose as well and change out the transmission mount. Tighten everything good and tight and enjoy!

2. German-spec: guten-tight.

3. I'm sure using the PS pump and alternator bracket is fine but I've used the oil pan with a floor jack/wood block without issue. Just don't go too crazy jacking the engine up and keep double checking you aren't ripping wires or what not. Remember, the wider the block of wood the better. The wood isn't used because it's softer, rather to spread the load.

[Nissin19]

Ever since I installed an Aem short ram on my stock ka it randomly hiccups but then runs normal. I also noticed hesitation on medium pulls. Sometimes when cruising it will lose all power and eventually stall(stalls if I turn it on normally, but if I keep the revs up during start it will run fine after that). ecu reads knock sensor and maf. '93 hatch
Has anyone had this problem? Figured id ask before i start buying unnecessary parts.
THANKS!

stuff replaced or fixed:
-fuel filter
-cap and rotor
-loose vacuum hose clamp
-cleaned maf sensor
unplugging the maf does not stall the car.

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

Imma just let this one slide DB...

They did not modify a zenki bumper. Zenki bumper has nothing in common with JDM/USDM kouki bumpers except for marker and turn signal lenses. They modified the JDM bumper to retrofit zenki lights in it for USDM front ends.

The other issue one will run into on JDM vs USDM fitment is on some plugs for side marker lights, corner lights, turn signal lights and in some cases headlights.

IF you convert to a JDM kouki front, make sure you get the harnesses too so you can rewire the plugs to function correctly at each light position. When upgrading your zenki to kouki tails, JDM will need to have plugs rewired as well in many cases. USDM kouki tails should have no issues, BUT may if it is a early year model

It has a lot more in common with the Zenki than it does with the JDM Kouki. The signal lights, Under Tray are the same. The JDM Kouki bumper has a much different contour and layout in the bottom half than the USDM.

[joshls2]

Originally Posted by bmaddock

1. I'd loosen up the transmission bolts so it has some play, then do one motor mount at a time. Use a floor jack with a block of wood to lift up the one side. It shouldn't take too long, make sure to tighten the new mount to the engine and then lower it down instead of bolting the mount to the subframe first. Leave the motor mounts loose as well and change out the transmission mount. Tighten everything good and tight and enjoy!

2. German-spec: guten-tight.

3. I'm sure using the PS pump and alternator bracket is fine but I've used the oil pan with a floor jack/wood block without issue. Just don't go too crazy jacking the engine up and keep double checking you aren't ripping wires or what not. Remember, the wider the block of wood the better. The wood isn't used because it's softer, rather to spread the load.

Thank you for the quick reply,man. I appreciate it.
..and yeah I might as well replace the tranny mount while I'm at it.

[Steve5405]

Is there a difference in 180 and 240 front finders? will a 180sx front bumper bolt up. Other than the lighting situation.

[e1_griego]

I always jack up on the trans bellhousing where it bolts to the block. to do the motor mounts. Never the pan.

[[240sx]]

Originally Posted by joshls2

Hey guys, I've some questions about replacing engine mounts.

1. in what order do I remove and replace the engine and tranny mounts during the repair?

2. what are the trq specs for the engine mount bolts.. I tighten them up, drive the car for a while then re-tighten them some more after the engine has settled?

3. is it safe to jack the engine up from the PSpump bracket and alternator bracket?


thanks.

I'll add my experience if it can at all help you.
When I replaced my mounts for Nismo ones. All the write ups/ how to's I've read said it was just a matter of jacking the engine up enough to pull them out.... well, that didn't work for me.lol. I ended up raising it to the point that the car would lift off the jack stands. So, I ended up removing the mount's bracket, off the engine block. WAY EASIER.(for me anyways)
.
.
. Oh, and I too used a block of wood.(oil pan, AC mount & alt worked)

Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2

[mr.nismo.]

Originally Posted by dev71893

Ok someone please clarify. ARP sr20et flywheel bolts, torque specs? I've searched so many different sites. I have the assembly lube from them as well. I've seen:
Factory 94-101
70
60
50
Where the fuck do I need to torque them? Threads I searched ranged 2007-13. I want to obviously make sure they're where they need to be and not be too tight.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Any one else have input? Have yet to hear back from ARP


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[overdueBlaSiaN]

SR20 Red Top overboosting but still feels sluggish
Gauge will read levels way past 7psi if I continue to mash the throttle but yet the car doesn't pull...
I've looked online for weeks and found nothing
Help me pleaseeee

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by Nissin19

Ever since I installed an Aem short ram on my stock ka it randomly hiccups but then runs normal. I also noticed hesitation on medium pulls. Sometimes when cruising it will lose all power and eventually stall(stalls if I turn it on normally, but if I keep the revs up during start it will run fine after that). ecu reads knock sensor and maf. '93 hatch
Has anyone had this problem? Figured id ask before i start buying unnecessary parts.
THANKS!

stuff replaced or fixed:
-fuel filter
-cap and rotor
-loose vacuum hose clamp
-cleaned maf sensor
unplugging the maf does not stall the car.

I have the same issue with my '96. Unlike you, I have also replaced the ECU(that was first because I wanted other things to happen)

The only two things left in the equation to replace the injectors and O2 sensors. OE is very small at 350cc~. You can go up to 550cc on a stock or basic stock tuned ECU

If you are unplugging the MAF, you may want to try replacing the upstream and downstream O2 sensors

[e1_griego]

OE are 270cc. You cannot throw in injectors without tuning the ecu.

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

I have the same issue with my '96. Unlike you, I have also replaced the ECU(that was first because I wanted other things to happen)

The only two things left in the equation to replace the injectors and O2 sensors. OE is very small at 350cc~. You can go up to 550cc on a stock or basic stock tuned ECU

If you are unplugging the MAF, you may want to try replacing the upstream and downstream O2 sensors

OE is 270cc. You are not going to max them out NA.

OP needs to get a multimeter and read Ignition on and idle voltages at the maf.

[joshls2]

Originally Posted by e1_griego

I always jack up on the trans bellhousing where it bolts to the block. to do the motor mounts. Never the pan.

Hmm, that's actually a good idea. I'll try it.

Originally Posted by [240sx]

I'll add my experience if it can at all help you.
When I replaced my mounts for Nismo ones. All the write ups/ how to's I've read said it was just a matter of jacking the engine up enough to pull them out.... well, that didn't work for me.lol. I ended up raising it to the point that the car would lift off the jack stands. So, I ended up removing the mount's bracket, off the engine block. WAY EASIER.(for me anyways)
.
.
. Oh, and I too used a block of wood.(oil pan, AC mount & alt worked)

Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2

yeah, I think that's what bmaddock had suggested to do, removing the bracket bolts from the engine first.


Ok guys, I have some followup questions. so.. I went down to autozone and got some Duralast OEM mounts but they only offer the L side mounts. I assumed the mounts were basically the same for both sides so I ordered them. Now that I have them in my hands I can see that they look completely identical. but.... aren't they actually supposed to be mirror opposites instead?? should I just return these and go to my Nissan dealer?

[bmxer882x]

2 small questions

1. What o2 sensor does a j4 ecu use? Having funny idle issues only with it plugged in. I think i may have the wrong one.

2. What boost will a s15 spec r dbb turbo hold? On my stock redtop im kind of disappointed because it spikes to 17 but lowers down to about 13.5 by redline

[e1_griego]

You should not be running 17psi on a stock redtop. That is going to blow up. You don't have enough fuel to support that.