Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[acslater9]

The latches are both the same I even swapped the latch on the other trunk and used it in the black one but it's still too short. It's off by an inch, literally. Both trunks have SE and 240sx emblems so they are basically the same other than the fact one is red and the other is black.

[richie_55]

have you tried also adjusting the latch on the car it self mine was such a pain I had to loosened it then hop inside the truck while a buddy closed it once latched.I cranked down the bolts and was good to go, hope that helps

Sent from my HTC Glacier using Tapatalk 2

[acslater9]

How would I go about adjusting the latch? Honestly the way the trunk sits is impossible to adjust. The latch sits an inch below where the latch is suppose to go. Also when I close the hood with no latch it doesn't even close there is a gap. The weather stripper makes it not go down.

[richie_55]

Was it wrecked?

[richie_55]

On my 95 their is a metal hook that the truck lid latches to inside the truck of the car and their are 2 bolts once loosened it moves freely and can be adjusted

[acslater9]

No the car was never wrecked. I'll have to look into that tomorrow thanks for the information.

[juhd]

how do you wire oem 180sx turn signals as fog/position lights? and what bulb should be used?

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by acslater9

The latches are both the same I even swapped the latch on the other trunk and used it in the black one but it's still too short. It's off by an inch, literally. Both trunks have SE and 240sx emblems so they are basically the same other than the fact one is red and the other is black.

It's the color, man. Black is like a short color, and red is a long color, so like the red is totally different, you know?

OK, if you didn't get a small laugh out of that, go back to sleep or something...

Loosen all the bolts for the latch and for the trunk mount. Move it around until it sits right. This way you will be able to adjust the entire trunk lid as a unit, not just spin wheels trying to mess with the latch. I'm betting the actual mounting bolts are aligned different, but maybe you might want to check that color chart to see if red really is longer

[Dirk Jan]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

think about it like this before you complain about price, your BOV is an important part of your motor just like your turbo, fuel injectors and engine internals. if it doesnt allow air out of the system and is made of cheap metals that will fall apart, do you really want it on your motor causing turbo damage due to compressor surge?

Ughhhh

[Punished]

Steering does not recenter when exiting a turn-

my s13 came with a depowered rack- i added ps back to it, it bled fine but still did not return to center. After my parts installs I did an alignment at a race shop and had caster adjusted to 7.4. Still does not re-center. No other issues with steering, car drives straight, but the steering is a bit stiff even with PS. was think it could be the 18s that make it a bit stiff as I've never driven on anything less but I know they are not the reason it doesnt return to center.

is this the rack itself? thinking of buying a reman rack from rock auto. Only thing done with the rack is tie rod ends.

[Dirk Jan]

Seized balljoints?

[Punished]

Originally Posted by Dirk Jan

Seized balljoints?

When checked they aren't seized. They are pretty worn and will be replaced shortly. May do that before touching the rack.

[e1_griego]

Do you have camber plates? Those bearings aren't designed to rotate axially so that maybe causing some problems if it's bound up.

[Punished]

I'm on pbm coilovers, running -2.5* camber. The car previously on Tein basic coils had the same issue, which is when the rack was depowered.

[acslater9]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

It's the color, man. Black is like a short color, and red is a long color, so like the red is totally different, you know?

OK, if you didn't get a small laugh out of that, go back to sleep or something...

Loosen all the bolts for the latch and for the trunk mount. Move it around until it sits right. This way you will be able to adjust the entire trunk lid as a unit, not just spin wheels trying to mess with the latch. I'm betting the actual mounting bolts are aligned different, but maybe you might want to check that color chart to see if red really is longer

Good one, haha.

I was thinking the same thing. The trunk mount might be the problem. As I stated before the lid sits back further, so I need to find a way to mount it correctly without drilling any holes.

EDIT**

Look at the black trunk's latch mount.

http://imgur.com/rYDWro1&vZCns7J#0

It looks completely different. Now note this came off a S14 Kouki.

This is the red trunk's latch mount.

http://imgur.com/rYDWro1&vZCns7J#1

The red one works! The latch mount looks "normal". This one came off a Zenki.

My car is a 97' Kouki. Why does the black trunk not fit and the red one does fit? Possibly damaged?

And no, the color red is not longer lol.

[unnaturalsniper]

Can anyone tell me why I done have spark on my car? I have a 90 hatch with a 92 dual cam swap. I'm using the dohc harness and ecu, and no spark. But when I hook up a sohc ecu, it starts, super shitty, but starts. I hooked up the dohc ecu in a buddy's cat, and it started with no problems.. I rewired the dash plug according to the 3 part YouTube video.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by acslater9

Good one, haha.

I was thinking the same thing. The trunk mount might be the problem. As I stated before the lid sits back further, so I need to find a way to mount it correctly without drilling any holes.

EDIT**

Look at the black trunk's latch mount.

http://imgur.com/rYDWro1&vZCns7J#0

It looks completely different. Now note this came off a S14 Kouki.

This is the red trunk's latch mount.

http://imgur.com/rYDWro1&vZCns7J#1

The red one works! The latch mount looks "normal". This one came off a Zenki.

My car is a 97' Kouki. Why does the black trunk not fit and the red one does fit? Possibly damaged?

And no, the color red is not longer lol.

Red is 620nm, to Violet's(closest to black) 400nm so Red IS longer

The zenki and kouki have identical trunk lids and can swap back and forth easily(at least here with three red cars). It looks like someone mis-mounted the latch on the black trunk lid and not the red.
I would suggest looking at your old one, making a template of the mounting holes, and holding it over the new one to see what the issue is. That latch is the same part number for way too many cars to list too, so it's odd you are having an alignment issue. You are going to look at this ten different ways and find it's something easy, then kick yourself for missing it

[acslater9]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

Red is 620nm, to Violet's(closest to black) 400nm so Red IS longer

The zenki and kouki have identical trunk lids and can swap back and forth easily(at least here with three red cars). It looks like someone mis-mounted the latch on the black trunk lid and not the red.
I would suggest looking at your old one, making a template of the mounting holes, and holding it over the new one to see what the issue is. That latch is the same part number for way too many cars to list too, so it's odd you are having an alignment issue. You are going to look at this ten different ways and find it's something easy, then kick yourself for missing it

From the looks of it the black trunk lids mount is flat, take a good look at that. On the other hand the red trunk lids mount has an indentation, which makes the lid fit perfectly and closes. I already saw both of the latch mounts both are identical with the same exact holes in the right place. Only difference is the indentation of the red trunk lid, the black lids latch mount is flat which does not work. I hope I made it somewhat clear for you to understand it.

[O$mo]

Originally Posted by O$mo

planning to extend a set of s14 FLCA 25mm can ikeya formula inners and moog outters handle that length?

i also do not have chopped up knuckles. need this question answered before i make any moves please

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by acslater9

From the looks of it the black trunk lids mount is flat, take a good look at that. On the other hand the red trunk lids mount has an indentation, which makes the lid fit perfectly and closes. I already saw both of the latch mounts both are identical with the same exact holes in the right place. Only difference is the indentation of the red trunk lid, the black lids latch mount is flat which does not work. I hope I made it somewhat clear for you to understand it.

At last night's meet, I asked the guys with zenki's and kouki's about this to see if anyone ever experienced it. The one guy who did simply tried both latches on both lids. He had Lid A which was his OE lid that fit right. Lid B would not fit right. He took the latch from Lid A, put it on Lid B and it fit right. He just got another used lid(Lid C). Lid C did not fit right until he put the latch from Lid B(the original latch from Lid A, the one that came on the car).
He said you shouldn't have to drill anything, but one of those latches on one of those lids will fit, you just need to take them both apart and try one latch on both lids, then the other latch on both lids

[acslater9]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

At last night's meet, I asked the guys with zenki's and kouki's about this to see if anyone ever experienced it. The one guy who did simply tried both latches on both lids. He had Lid A which was his OE lid that fit right. Lid B would not fit right. He took the latch from Lid A, put it on Lid B and it fit right. He just got another used lid(Lid C). Lid C did not fit right until he put the latch from Lid B(the original latch from Lid A, the one that came on the car).
He said you shouldn't have to drill anything, but one of those latches on one of those lids will fit, you just need to take them both apart and try one latch on both lids, then the other latch on both lids

Already tried that. Lid A (red lid) has the latch that fits the car. Lid B (black lid) has the same exact latch as Lid A. So once I switch Lid A's latch to the Lid B, the problem still occurs. The latch sits back about a good inch behind where the latch hooks up to for the lid to close(don't know the name). I honestly think the trunk lid was in an accident. It is so bizarre to me that Lid B does not work. The only difference I see from the 2 lids are the color (obvious) and the indentation Lid A has while Lid B does not have that indentation, it's a flat mount.

I'm confused as to why this lid is not working, tomorrow is another day.

[mau5trap]

I'm having some issues with my a/c. It's not blowing cold air at all. I hooked up some gauges to a/c stem and these are the numbers i got. The high side is low. The low side is a bit low too. Is the car just low on freon? thanks



^^^ car off


^^^ car on with the ac on

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by acslater9

Already tried that. Lid A (red lid) has the latch that fits the car. Lid B (black lid) has the same exact latch as Lid A. So once I switch Lid A's latch to the Lid B, the problem still occurs. The latch sits back about a good inch behind where the latch hooks up to for the lid to close(don't know the name). I honestly think the trunk lid was in an accident. It is so bizarre to me that Lid B does not work. The only difference I see from the 2 lids are the color (obvious) and the indentation Lid A has while Lid B does not have that indentation, it's a flat mount.

I'm confused as to why this lid is not working, tomorrow is another day.

A good friend with a shop said:
'He's probably going to have to take the lid he wants to use with the latch from the lid that works and put a plate on that lid, drill, tap, and refit the latch. I have seen this before and it still baffles me'

Originally Posted by mau5trap

I'm having some issues with my a/c. It's not blowing cold air at all. I hooked up some gauges to a/c stem and these are the numbers i got. The high side is low. The low side is a bit low too. Is the car just low on freon? thanks



^^^ car off


^^^ car on with the ac on

Check the entire length of the system with a spray bottle of soapy water for leaks(System ON, squirt squirt squirt...look for bubbling, that would be a leak).
IF you have access to a vacuum system for recharging, vacuum the system out to a 3# vacuum, then recharge it to ~50#, and check to see how cold it blows. Since the weather is starting to cool, 50# should be fine. Summer, you may want to bump up to around 60#, but do so in 5# increments and check 'cold' as you do so

[mau5trap]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

A good friend with a shop said:
'He's probably going to have to take the lid he wants to use with the latch from the lid that works and put a plate on that lid, drill, tap, and refit the latch. I have seen this before and it still baffles me'



Check the entire length of the system with a spray bottle of soapy water for leaks(System ON, squirt squirt squirt...look for bubbling, that would be a leak).
IF you have access to a vacuum system for recharging, vacuum the system out to a 3# vacuum, then recharge it to ~50#, and check to see how cold it blows. Since the weather is starting to cool, 50# should be fine. Summer, you may want to bump up to around 60#, but do so in 5# increments and check 'cold' as you do so

I checked for leaks, I don't see any. what about the expansion valve being fault? Would it cause my a/c not to work?

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by mau5trap

I checked for leaks, I don't see any. what about the expansion valve being fault? Would it cause my a/c not to work?

Hmmmm...troubleshooting from afar, lets see...

If all parts are OK, and the system blows room temperature air with no leaks, this indicates low charge situation, and a simple charge service is needed as per our PM. What are you looking at and calling 'expansion valve'?
The system goes from Tank/Drier to the interior of the car to the blower, out the firewall to the compressor, into the condenser, from there, back to the tank. There are switches inside the car and on the compressor.

[Grocery Cart]

I've been having an idle issue as well as a slight hiccup when accelerating/cruising and I really need to figure it out.
I have a 93 s13 with an s14 ka. I was told they used the s13 harness, intake manifold, ECU, MAF, and distributor, when swapping the s14 ka in. When I first got it I noticed while cruising at a steady spead and accelerating it would hesitate every once and a while. Nothing ever serious but definitely enough to notice. Also while idling it would either idle high, around 1300-1500, or it would fluctuate around 700-1000. When it did idle right at 1k it seemed like it was struggling to stay there. It was also running very rich. I replaced the spark plugs when I first got the car and it ran pretty smoothly, idled nice also. After a few days it progressively got back to it's previous status. The brand new spark plugs were black, so I replaced them. Then while trying to pin point why my car was running rich and having it idle/drive up and down my parking lot for about an hour or two my plugs were black again. There's always a pretty good hint of fuel when driving.

[Bricked]

Hi everyone
I am going to look at this car tomorrow. I have never even driven a 240 so I would like to ask for some input from those who are more experienced than myself. From what I gather, the Silvia badges were added?Are there any negatives that stand out?

http://rockford.craigslist.org/cto/4680875337.html

Additional info:
150k miles on body 14k on rebuild no rust couple scratches bigger injectors , valve and piston rings header cold air ,pro wires, exhaust, drilled slotted all around bbs staggered 18"
Original wheels included, expired plates

Thanks for the help, I need it!

EDIT: Drove this car today, the black is paint, storage building roof fell in on it, couldn't afford to color match so did it up in black. Put bed liner on front lip, newish suspension parts but the back end was bouncing around, drive train solid, cigarette burns, broken trim prices, very very little rust. It sat for 2yrs until now, he pulled up and gas was dripping from the tank area :/
He mentioned sliding and I said it's not for me, then after my low (re: reasonable) offer he asked if I want to go sideways in it :/ Sorry but that's not gonna sell it for me. Very nice guy but man, he had dealer plates on it that were old and the gas tank was pegged on E. Once again, fantastic individual, car just isn't for me.

[Dirk Jan]

I personally think that looks absolutely shit. Have you seen the black paint in front of the rear arches? Why would anybody in their right mind do something like that. Also, it's auto. And bigger injectors on a stock KA wouldn't exactly do the motor any good.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by Dirk Jan

I personally think that looks absolutely shit. Have you seen the black paint in front of the rear arches? Why would anybody in their right mind do something like that. Also, it's auto. And bigger injectors on a stock KA wouldn't exactly do the motor any good.

First, larger injectors meter fuel better at IDLE, AND LOW rpm's.

I did, however, LOL at the 'rare S14SE Auto', try rare for a manual car dipshit!

That black plastidip, comes right off. I would offer 4000 and see where he goes

[1slowlance]

Hey all. Quick question, that I can't seem to find the answer to anywhere. What is the bulb size for the footwell light, and light under the steering wheel on an s13. 93 hatch. It looks kinda like the dome light bulb.