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Old 10-03-2014, 04:12 PM   #17311
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Gathering parts to rebuild my SR in the future. Just wondering if this is a good list of components ? If there's more please add or if such a thread already exsist, please direct me in the right direction. The build is going to be mild build ( jwt s3 cams, z32maf, tomei m7960 turbo @ 16-18psi, 740cc inj, etc ) looking for 350whp reliable/daily.

Rebuild components: all parts are new
Oem s13 oil pump
Oem timing chain kit
Supertech valve seals
Arp head & main bolts
Oem full gasket kit
Aem wideband O2 sensor plug
Apexi metal headgasket
Acl race bearings
Acl thrust washers
Oem pilot & throw out bearing
Spec stage 3 clutch
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Old 10-03-2014, 05:43 PM   #17312
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Yep, you unbolt it from the body. Unplug the harness connector and ziptie the plug to the harness.
Awesome! Thank you!
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Old 10-03-2014, 10:15 PM   #17313
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planning to extend a set of s14 FLCA 25mm can ikeya formula inners and moog outters handle that length?
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Old 10-04-2014, 04:21 PM   #17314
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I bought an s14 and it came with an aftermarket steering wheel. Luckily the guy gave me the oem steering wheel.

I tried looking around the site and other various sites but I couldn't find out if installing the oem steering wheel was the same as installing an aftermarket steering wheel. Obviously, the difference between the two is that the oem has airbag. But, I need to know if it is a simple task to complete. Thank you.
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Old 10-04-2014, 04:57 PM   #17315
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I bought an s14 and it came with an aftermarket steering wheel. Luckily the guy gave me the oem steering wheel.

I tried looking around the site and other various sites but I couldn't find out if installing the oem steering wheel was the same as installing an aftermarket steering wheel. Obviously, the difference between the two is that the oem has airbag. But, I need to know if it is a simple task to complete. Thank you.
look up a how to on installing an aftermarket wheel, then do it backwards. it's simple.
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Old 10-04-2014, 05:40 PM   #17316
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I'm wondering if I can take my parts car dash out as one piece by just unbolting the dash bar from the car and unplugging everything and removing it all at once (radio, a/c controls, etc.) without taking it apart in a million pieces, then putting it back like that, but in my car.
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Old 10-04-2014, 06:11 PM   #17317
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No. You need to take everything a peice at a time.
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Old 10-04-2014, 06:23 PM   #17318
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Just installed a new control arm everything had to be taken apart and retightened including the tie rods/tension rods and swaybar ends, but when put back together and if I turn slight left it makes a clunk sound. If I turn all the way left or even right it makes no sound at all only if it is slightly left it makes a clunk sound could this be a sign of over tightening something like the tie rod castle nut?
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Old 10-04-2014, 06:44 PM   #17319
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Just installed a new control arm everything had to be taken apart and retightened including the tie rods/tension rods and swaybar ends, but when put back together and if I turn slight left it makes a clunk sound. If I turn all the way left or even right it makes no sound at all only if it is slightly left it makes a clunk sound could this be a sign of over tightening something like the tie rod castle nut?
Probably bad tie end rods. Replacing your tie ends AND rods makes a huge difference in steering and removes all the slop left over after you do your tension rods and sway bar links. spend $165 on frsport and get some tein rods and ends. that should clear it all up.
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Old 10-04-2014, 06:59 PM   #17320
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already have tein rods both inner and outter slapped on joints still fresh
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Old 10-04-2014, 09:07 PM   #17321
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Do you have coilovers? A lot of times the top hats/camber plates will make clunk noises
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Old 10-04-2014, 09:16 PM   #17322
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Does anyone know the difference between the 2 HKS wastegate actuators on frsport for the S15 turbo? There's one that's purple that cost double what the silver one costs. Is the purple one just fancier? As always any help is appreciated! Thanks guys!
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Old 10-04-2014, 09:27 PM   #17323
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Does anyone know the difference between the 2 HKS wastegate actuators on frsport for the S15 turbo? There's one that's purple that cost double what the silver one costs. Is the purple one just fancier? As always any help is appreciated! Thanks guys!
Never mind!!
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Old 10-04-2014, 10:55 PM   #17324
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Do you have coilovers? A lot of times the top hats/camber plates will make clunk noises
yea i thought about that too but i already retightened the camber plates thinking it was them but it didn't help much.
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Old 10-05-2014, 10:25 AM   #17325
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yea i thought about that too but i already retightened the camber plates thinking it was them but it didn't help much.
Coilovers make noises sometimes if there is too much preload. The spring binds up because there is nothing allowing it to rotate/articulate. Not sure what type of coils you have.
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Old 10-05-2014, 01:04 PM   #17326
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Coilovers make noises sometimes if there is too much preload. The spring binds up because there is nothing allowing it to rotate/articulate. Not sure what type of coils you have.
Have Megan Coilovers I'm going to reduce the preload then and see what happens
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Old 10-05-2014, 03:52 PM   #17327
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yea i thought about that too but i already retightened the camber plates thinking it was them but it didn't help much.
did you replace your power steering rack bushings?
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Old 10-05-2014, 08:16 PM   #17328
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Hey I didn't want to start a new post for this dumb question but do you guys have any horror stories with the police (mainly LAPD since i live in SoCal) pulling you guys over and making you pop open your hood and seeing your engine swap the reason i'm asking is because I'm debating on getting a SR20 in my car right now or selling it and getting something more modern and reliable. My KA is going to need a rebuild soon and I'm about to smog my car so i won't have to worry about smog for a while.
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Old 10-06-2014, 09:53 AM   #17329
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did you replace your power steering rack bushings?
I think I found out the culprit just haven't changed it yet or replaced it, but on further inspection it seems to be that my sway bar end link has lost one of the bushings and is probably the reason for the clunking noise only on the left side. Will replace them and see if that is the problem or not.
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Old 10-06-2014, 05:04 PM   #17330
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I've searched and I'm not really getting a definite answer. Hopefully someone will clear it up. I'm planning on using a z32 vlsd in my s14. I want to use the tt model axles aswell but it won't work. From what I read, I have to use two N/a driver side axles to make them fit?
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Old 10-06-2014, 09:27 PM   #17331
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SR BOV set-up info

So I have a mostly stock 94 Redtop. It has a BOV (idk the brand) venting to atmosphere and I'm having that common problem of running really really rich, car almost dies when going to neutral or after revving the engine and loud backfires.

So my question is how could I recirculate my BOV without having to spend sooo much money? I've searched everywhere for days and couldn't find a good setup for the right amount of money.

PS: I still have rubber intake tube. Should I replace?
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Old 10-06-2014, 09:38 PM   #17332
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I haven't had any problems with my swap and I honestly don't think you will either. Just as long as your not driving like an asshole. Cops will only ask you to pop your hood if you give them a reason too, like having your car gutted (or giving them a reason to believe you use the car for the track
I've only seen one car get towed and that was because he was driving like a dick and he didn't even have a hood covering his 2Jz swap
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Old 10-06-2014, 09:38 PM   #17333
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So I have a mostly stock 94 Redtop. It has a BOV (idk the brand) venting to atmosphere and I'm having that common problem of running really really rich, car almost dies when going to neutral or after revving the engine and loud backfires.



So my question is how could I recirculate my BOV without having to spend sooo much money? I've searched everywhere for days and couldn't find a good setup for the right amount of money.



PS: I still have rubber intake tube. Should I replace?

as with all older engines ... especially ones that you haven't personally maintained .. first would be to change all you vac lines (when's the last time those were changed) if the answer is "idk" most likely it's time to change its fairly a cheap fix to

typically a backfire would mean that you have a exhaust leak some where .. so that would probably be you next fix common places (down pipe connector)


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Old 10-06-2014, 09:57 PM   #17334
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as with all older engines ... especially ones that you haven't personally maintained .. first would be to change all you vac lines (when's the last time those were changed) if the answer is "idk" most likely it's time to change its fairly a cheap fix to

typically a backfire would mean that you have a exhaust leak some where .. so that would probably be you next fix common places (down pipe connector)


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Yeah I don't think they've been replaced since the swap so I'll add that on my list. Ill check for an exhaust leak tomorrow too. Thanks for the info!
Don't you go to Mira Costa ? Hahaha
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Old 10-06-2014, 10:00 PM   #17335
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Yeah I don't think they've been replaced since the swap so I'll add that on my list. Ill check for an exhaust leak tomorrow too. Thanks for the info!

Don't you go to Mira Costa ? Hahaha

lol yes I do white coupe (some of your friends know me (and my car lol)




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Old 10-06-2014, 10:14 PM   #17336
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lol yes I do white coupe (some of your friends know me (and my car lol)




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Lol yeah I'm pretty sure we both know Davion(primer hatch/white Rotas) and Richard D(type x hatch)
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Old 10-06-2014, 11:45 PM   #17337
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So I have a mostly stock 94 Redtop. It has a BOV (idk the brand) venting to atmosphere and I'm having that common problem of running really really rich, car almost dies when going to neutral or after revving the engine and loud backfires.

So my question is how could I recirculate my BOV without having to spend sooo much money? I've searched everywhere for days and couldn't find a good setup for the right amount of money.

PS: I still have rubber intake tube. Should I replace?
switch to a HKS SSQV4, theyre one of the ONLY BOVs that doesnt really cause the rich/bogging issue. stop whining about not spending money and buy QUALITY parts! knock off SSQVs SUCK! (as do all cheap chinese knock offs). think about it like this before you complain about price, your BOV is an important part of your motor just like your turbo, fuel injectors and engine internals. if it doesnt allow air out of the system and is made of cheap metals that will fall apart, do you really want it on your motor causing turbo damage due to compressor surge? would you cheap out on a turbo? would you cheap out on cams? would you cheap out on pistons and rods? spend the money and buy a brand new HKS SSQV4 from an authorized dealer like MVP Motorsports or Z1 Motorsports and enjoy having a BOV that doesnt cause the bogging problem and one that works properly!

rubber intake tube is fine, just make sure you cap the re-circulation inlet with an air tight rubber plug (i found a perfect one at home depot, was like 3 dollars). if youre using those cheap thin couplers, spend the cash and buy some actual quality and thick silicone couplers from HPS. this also goes for quality t-bolt clamps as well. those autozone screw clamps are garbage!

spending the cash on quality stuff to clean up your engine issues helps a ton! buying cheap parts may seem like a good idea at the time, but doing it right the first time and spending an extra $100 is ALWAYS worth it in the long run!
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Old 10-06-2014, 11:53 PM   #17338
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switch to a HKS SSQV4, theyre one of the ONLY BOVs that doesnt really cause the rich/bogging issue. stop whining about not spending money and buy QUALITY parts! knock off SSQVs SUCK!
^^^this! I had one on my sr20 and never had an issue!
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Old 10-07-2014, 04:10 PM   #17339
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Do S14 trunks has different bars to close the trunk?

I ask that because I'm trying to install a s14 SE trunk with a wing and it does not close it's too short. Now the weird part is that the trunk I had before had a wing. Reason why I removed it is because it's red so I swapped it out for a black trunk. They both look identical, I have no idea why it does not close.
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Old 10-07-2014, 04:18 PM   #17340
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If they are identical check the latch position on car you may have to move it around a bit, I had a similar problem
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