Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[irun240sx]

hey i have been trying for about half a year to stop the smoke coming out of my car. im running 10w40 it drops like half a quart of oil every 20 miles so i have to refill after every stop. it smokes up when the oil is low. i have swapped the headgasket with mls and arp studs, i rebuilt my turbo new seals, i have new dual radiator cuz i thought the oil was getting burned somehow, new valve cover gasket, my 3rd cylinder is little less shiny than the other cylinders but its not DIRTY, i put an air compressor on each of the cylinders to check for cracks in the head/block but no bubbles came out of the radiator so i think im fine, my compression is 140 on the front two; 150 on the back two, im replacing the pvc and adding a oil catch can on the left side of the valve cover "T" right now ill let you know if it works, next is the valve stems seals but im not sure if thats the problem. could it be the piston rings?

[KoukiMonsta]

How long are the m6x1.0 bolts that hold on the sr front cover? Anybody able to measure one?

[Bleakley]

I was going to say valve stem seals and then you said it at the end... 140/150 seems low.. I would not rule out rings. Do a wet compression test and see what that yields..

[Bleakley]

Originally Posted by S14DB

Yes, there is even a company that sells them drilled and tapped.

Originally Posted by eek

Yup, its at Enjuku Racing.. http://www.enjukuracing.com/products...nsor-port.html

Good deal! Thanks guys. Already bought a brand new S14 water neck from FRSport so I am off to do it myself.

Thanks again.

[_rods13]

I recently installed a CAI on my 1989 240 coupe. The problem is that the MAF sensor is too small and seems to cause a vacuum leak. I tried putting electrical tape around the MAF to make it fit more snug but the tape got hot and kind of fell off. So i was wondering what i could do to make it fit tighter?

[David48]

Put the factory intake pipe back on because those things do absolutely nothing. Then sell the cai, and treat your lady to a night out or something.

[sean710]

They are too many pages on this thread to find this it seems like so ill ask, is there a way to mount Silvia lights with broken tabs?

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by David48

Put the factory intake pipe back on because those things do absolutely nothing. Then sell the cai, and treat your lady to a night out or something.

Stop peddling that bullshit, son, no one wants it.

Import Tuner Magazine, 240SX SE build
CAI good for CONSISTENT 8hp, 8#T, GAINS, yes, CONSISTENT GAINS

I don't know about you, David, but 8 horsepower, and 8 pounds of torque is not only seen on the dyno, it is noticeable on the ol butt dyno too, and this gain, AS TESTED was AT mid range on the rev. So whoever told you a CAI doesn't do jack, son, you just been schooled with the PROVEN NUMBERS so if you peddle the numbers and accurate info, you will show you CAN be brought out of ignorance, but if you continue to peddle facts that are bullshit opinions, you only show everyone here you MIGHT be stupid.

In point of fact, a CAI, Cat back, and ECU upgrade(Nisstune, RS Enthaply, et al) will show a consistent gain of around 18 - 20 hp, or enough to make these little KA's run a 3 series all day long, and make that civic's v-tec look like a wheezing attack


To fix your loose connector, try using silicone sealer. You MUST allow the sealer to GAS OUT completely(we call this curing)

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by _rods13

I recently installed a CAI on my 1989 240 coupe. The problem is that the MAF sensor is too small and seems to cause a vacuum leak. I tried putting electrical tape around the MAF to make it fit more snug but the tape got hot and kind of fell off. So i was wondering what i could do to make it fit tighter?

Did it come with band clamps? What part isn't fitting? Pictures?

[_rods13]

Thank you guys ill try the silicone sealer! And its the actual maf housing/tube that does not fit into the cai tube. Ill post pictures later when i get off work

[Kuma]

I've got what is probably a dumb question, but I'd like a definite answer before I throw it out. When swapping to manual from auto all the write ups say " unbolt/unplug this for now" when referring to the auto shift control module that is where the clutch pedal goes. They never come back to it. So can I throw it away and tuck the wires up under the dash?

it's a 95.

[tauntdevil]

Stupid question but just checking my sanity...

S13 handbrake lever sections are longer than s14 handbrake lever sections?

I believe I have a s13 handbrake which doesn't fit my S14, the section between the lever and the rear mount where it goes through the tranny tunnel, is too long... I assume its a s13 handbrake lever but not sure... Does anyone know by any chance?

[manny325]

need help got an s13 with a sr20det red top. its runs and idles fine revs up fine with no issues until you drive it has no power at wot until like 3500 rpms it feels like it bogs down. checked timing and chanced the knock sensor and its still doing it,. please help im new to the sr20s

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by manny325

need help got an s13 with a sr20det red top. its runs and idles fine revs up fine with no issues until you drive it has no power at wot until like 3500 rpms it feels like it bogs down. checked timing and chanced the knock sensor and its still doing it,. please help im new to the sr20s

boost leak, dirty MAF, vacuum leak, bad fuel pump, fouled plugs, shitty cheap autozone air filter, did i mention boost leak?

id highly suggest you replace every coupler and clamp with brand new QUALITY silicone couplers and tbolt clamps (i run HPS couplers and tbolt clamps), most of you guys cheap out on some of the most important engine components. screw clamps suck for proper seal and can only be used a few times before they lose their clamping force, tbolt clamps can be reused over and over. cheap and thin couplers cause major problems in that you can never get them to seal properly.

a dirty MAF can be the biggest bane to an any SR setup as well. get some b12 out and pull the MAF sensor itself out of the house (2 flat head screws hold it in place). spray it down with B12 carb cleaner a few times and see if that makes a difference. if the 2 wires are dark/black, then grab a q-tip, spray it down with B12 and rub the q-tip against the wires carefully. youd be amazed at what comes off.

also, invest in a K&N Air Filter! and i stress this heavily!!! cheap air filters cannot be cleaned and once dirty, start causing all sorts of fun air flow issues to the MAF. the K&N is cleanable and has a great lifespan! also they flow much better than those stupid Spectre autozone specials. A conical K&N only runs like 50-60 bucks, BUY ONE!!!

[manny325]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

boost leak, dirty MAF, vacuum leak, bad fuel pump, fouled plugs, shitty cheap autozone air filter, did i mention boost leak?

id highly suggest you replace every coupler and clamp with brand new QUALITY silicone couplers and tbolt clamps (i run HPS couplers and tbolt clamps), most of you guys cheap out on some of the most important engine components. screw clamps suck for proper seal and can only be used a few times before they lose their clamping force, tbolt clamps can be reused over and over. cheap and thin couplers cause major problems in that you can never get them to seal properly.

a dirty MAF can be the biggest bane to an any SR setup as well. get some b12 out and pull the MAF sensor itself out of the house (2 flat head screws hold it in place). spray it down with B12 carb cleaner a few times and see if that makes a difference. if the 2 wires are dark/black, then grab a q-tip, spray it down with B12 and rub the q-tip against the wires carefully. youd be amazed at what comes off.

also, invest in a K&N Air Filter! and i stress this heavily!!! cheap air filters cannot be cleaned and once dirty, start causing all sorts of fun air flow issues to the MAF. the K&N is cleanable and has a great lifespan! also they flow much better than those stupid Spectre autozone specials. A conical K&N only runs like 50-60 bucks, BUY ONE!!!

thanks I will try that tomorrow I checked ,y plugs and all couplers for boost leak and nothing

[David48]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

Stop peddling that bullshit, son, no one wants it.

Import Tuner Magazine, 240SX SE build
CAI good for CONSISTENT 8hp, 8#T, GAINS, yes, CONSISTENT GAINS

I don't know about you, David, but 8 horsepower, and 8 pounds of torque is not only seen on the dyno, it is noticeable on the ol butt dyno too, and this gain, AS TESTED was AT mid range on the rev. So whoever told you a CAI doesn't do jack, son, you just been schooled with the PROVEN NUMBERS so if you peddle the numbers and accurate info, you will show you CAN be brought out of ignorance, but if you continue to peddle facts that are bullshit opinions, you only show everyone here you MIGHT be stupid.

In point of fact, a CAI, Cat back, and ECU upgrade(Nisstune, RS Enthaply, et al) will show a consistent gain of around 18 - 20 hp, or enough to make these little KA's run a 3 series all day long, and make that civic's v-tec look like a wheezing attack


To fix your loose connector, try using silicone sealer. You MUST allow the sealer to GAS OUT completely(we call this curing)

8hp and 8ft/lbs? That's an awfully large gain for replacing a plastic pipe, with a similarly shaped aluminum pipe. Where does the hp gain come from? What is it a 8hp gain over stock form with a ROM tune on top of it?

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by manny325

thanks I will try that tomorrow I checked ,y plugs and all couplers for boost leak and nothing

you cant check for boost leaks without pressurizing the turbo system with the car off lol... you need a boost leak tester for that. i can tell you right now, if youre running cheap couplers and screw clamps, you have boost leaks!\

also, if youre running rich, you have a leak AFTER the turbo... if youre running lean, you have a leak before the turbo (good bit of general information)

[manny325]

oh ok I did not know that. I have isis couplers

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by David48

8hp and 8ft/lbs? That's an awfully large gain for replacing a plastic pipe, with a similarly shaped aluminum pipe. Where does the hp gain come from? What is it a 8hp gain over stock form with a ROM tune on top of it?

The first upgrade to AEM/Apexi/Injen intake allows smoother flow by deleting the crimped plastic that ALSO holds more frictional drag than the aluminum mandrel bends. The addition of a better filter also works for the overall effect of a true gain in power.

Baseline Dyno pull:   120.6hp
Aluminum Intake:     126hp      6hp gain
DC 4-2-1 Header:     134hp     8hp gain
2.5" cat back:          141hp     7hp gain
232/248 cam swap:  146hp      5hp gain
Tuned ECU:             149hp      4.5hp gain

Total gain:                             30hp

Measured Flywheel gains begin at 155hp and go to 185hp

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by _rods13

Thank you guys ill try the silicone sealer! And its the actual maf housing/tube that does not fit into the cai tube. Ill post pictures later when i get off work

Sounds like you are missing a coupler.

Originally Posted by Kuma

I've got what is probably a dumb question, but I'd like a definite answer before I throw it out. When swapping to manual from auto all the write ups say " unbolt/unplug this for now" when referring to the auto shift control module that is where the clutch pedal goes. They never come back to it. So can I throw it away and tuck the wires up under the dash?

it's a 95.

Yep, you unbolt it from the body. Unplug the harness connector and ziptie the plug to the harness.

[livelovesole]

Gathering parts to rebuild my SR in the future. Just wondering if this is a good list of components ? If there's more please add or if such a thread already exsist, please direct me in the right direction. The build is going to be mild build ( jwt s3 cams, z32maf, tomei m7960 turbo @ 16-18psi, 740cc inj, etc ) looking for 350whp reliable/daily.

Rebuild components: all parts are new
Oem s13 oil pump
Oem timing chain kit
Supertech valve seals
Arp head & main bolts
Oem full gasket kit
Aem wideband O2 sensor plug
Apexi metal headgasket
Acl race bearings
Acl thrust washers
Oem pilot & throw out bearing
Spec stage 3 clutch

[David48]

Originally Posted by livelovesole

Gathering parts to rebuild my SR in the future. Just wondering if this is a good list of components ? If there's more please add or if such a thread already exsist, please direct me in the right direction. The build is going to be mild build ( jwt s3 cams, z32maf, tomei m7960 turbo @ 16-18psi, 740cc inj, etc ) looking for 350whp reliable/daily.

Rebuild components: all parts are new
Oem s13 oil pump
Oem timing chain kit
Supertech valve seals
Arp head & main bolts
Oem full gasket kit
Aem wideband O2 sensor plug
Apexi metal headgasket
Acl race bearings
Acl thrust washers
Oem pilot & throw out bearing
Spec stage 3 clutch

Have you bought any of this yet? I have a set of bnib std size ACL race bearings for an SR that I never used because my crank had to be cut. Also, read into those ARP mainstuds. I've read that they're overkill for anything under 500hp and take extra machine work to install.

[240koukiSX]

Does anyone know which Subaru sti injectors to get for my S13 SR20DET and where to get them from? And how to get them to fit? The size I'm looking for is somewhere around 550cc's. Thanks to anyone who can guide me in the right direction!

[Nissansota240]

Originally Posted by 240koukiSX

Does anyone know which Subaru sti injectors to get for my S13 SR20DET and where to get them from? And how to get them to fit? The size I'm looking for is somewhere around 550cc's. Thanks to anyone who can guide me in the right direction!

I'm running 04-06 sti wrx side feed injectors. They actually flow 530cc. If you can find a pair with pigtails to wire in that would be best. That's what I did.

[240koukiSX]

Originally Posted by Nissansota240

I'm running 04-06 still wrx side feed injectors. They actually flow 530cc. If you can find a pair with pigtails to wire in that would be best. That's what I did.

Awesome man! You wouldn't happen to have a write up of how to do it would you? Or know where one is? I'm going to join a Subaru forum and see if someone is selling any

[livelovesole]

Originally Posted by David48

Have you bought any of this yet? I have a set of bnib std size ACL race bearings for an SR that I never used because my crank had to be cut. Also, read into those ARP mainstuds. I've read that they're overkill for anything under 500hp and take extra machine work to install.

I've bought all of that minus the headgasket, and bearing because i dont know if im going to bore the block out or keep it standard bore and dont know the condition of the crank either.

[Lompang]

Came into some weird problems installing my control arm on my driver side today. I installed it fine on passenger side, but when installing on driver's side the swaybar end links that connect to the control arm doesn't go in cause it's too high in the air when I connect the control arm to the hub. I don't know why it's so difficult on this side everything just doesn't wanna fit in unlike the passenger side which I had no problems with my swaybar end links going in fine and the control arm fitting perfectly in the hub allowing enough room for the cotter pin to be placed but wouldn't give enough room on the driver's side any idea?

[TonyToniTuna]

Stock SR....no BOV....no nipple on IC piping for wastegate vacuum line.

So is it okay to have my wastegate line go to the bottom nipple on the TB where the charcoal canister line would go?

I keep seeing people say its fine...and people saying not to do it....

~_~

[e1_griego]

Yeah, bottom nipple is before the throttle body so just a boost reference which is what the wastegate needs.

[TonyToniTuna]

Originally Posted by e1_griego

Yeah, bottom nipple is before the throttle body so just a boost reference which is what the wastegate needs.

Appreciate it. I just wanted to make sure.