Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[240sxDavid]

Quick question, I just bought a HUD digital cluster and I have a 90 sohc, some people have been telling me that I don't need the sub harness, and some people are telling me I do what is exactly necessary for me to have this baby working correctly?

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[240ss]

I put the digital cluster in my hatch and I would say you definitely need the sub harness.

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[juhd]

can someone tell me the all the parts i need to swap in a j30 vlsd into a 91 240sx non abs and what needs to be swapped out? what year j30 diff is the best? or should i go with another diff? etc. just looking for some advice. thanks

[GL Chrillz]

So i have very little braking on my s13. pedal is firm all the way down, fluid comes out of all 4 corners just fine when i bleed the brakes (bled them 10 times) new calipers all around, new master, bled the master before install, i have 1 new rubber hose on the rear pass side, just installed a new (used, but working) booster. i am stumped. could one or more of the rubber hoses that i havent changed yet give me no braking?

Edit: i have project mu pads on stock calipers, and the e brake wont even lock up the rear tires when driving. if i pull the e brake, it stops me just as slowly as if i pressed the brake pedal

[Reece]

My fuel gauge just randomly stopped working. I replaced an alternator wire and a fuel line if that matters. What's going on? I have also noticed I can't reset the trip odometer.

[240ss]

Originally Posted by Reece

My fuel gauge just randomly stopped working. I replaced an alternator wire and a fuel line if that matters. What's going on? I have also noticed I can't reset the trip odometer.

check the fuel pump assembly. float probably came off. and your odometer, thats just old age

[juhd]

what is that this nut called and how do i remove it? its on the rear hubs on my 13

[JBB]

straighten the two ends of the cotter pin, pull it out, remove the washer behind it, and unbolt the nut. Its a large socket, 36mm I believe. Sorry, dont know the name of the nut....wheel hub nut?

[Tryflinkeith757]

Want to say Castle Nut, cuz of the slots on top for the cotter pin

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[JBB]

Ok, this might be a stupid question so please dont flame me.
Im about to drop an sr into my car; it has s15 injectors/turbo, z32 maf, and your basic bolt on mods such as lightened flywheel, aftermarket clutch, 3" elbow/downpipe/exhaust, tubular manifold, large front mount intercooler, etc.. My friend is saying that we shouldnt start it up and that I should go to the place that Im getting it tuned and have them put a base map on my ECU so that we can start it and then granny drive it to the shop. Is this necessary?

EDIT: to clarify the question, is acquiring the base map for initial start up necessary? Will I be alright to start the engine, check for leaks, etc, and drive [in vacuum] to the tuner?

[GL Chrillz]

Originally Posted by JBB

straighten the two ends of the cotter pin, pull it out, remove the washer behind it, and unbolt the nut. Its a large socket, 36mm I believe. Sorry, dont know the name of the nut....wheel hub nut?

should just be axle nut? since its on the rear on a 240... either way, 99% sure its a 36mm too as you stated

[juhd]

Originally Posted by GL Chrillz

should just be axle nut? since its on the rear on a 240... either way, 99% sure its a 36mm too as you stated

what i mean is that do you need a special tool to take it out? or just pry it out? i know how to take the cotter pin out and the bolt behind that thing. ive just never seen/noticed that part

[JBB]

What part dude?? Take the cotter pin out, remove the washer, remove the nut. Are you looking to take the actual hub off? 4 bolts on the back (must do some rotating to get to all of them) then, strap on (lol) a pulley puller and crank that bitch all the way and the hub will slide off. Im not sure what else you are asking..maybe some information from the z32 brake swap guide will help you? http://importnut.net/300zxbrakeswap.htm

I looked at your picture again and the only thing I can think of that you arent sure about is the wavy looking washer behind the cotter pin; after you pull the pin out the washer will just slide right off

[juhd]

Originally Posted by JBB

What part dude?? Take the cotter pin out, remove the washer, remove the nut. Are you looking to take the actual hub off? 4 bolts on the back (must do some rotating to get to all of them) then, strap on (lol) a pulley puller and crank that bitch all the way and the hub will slide off. Im not sure what else you are asking..maybe some information from the z32 brake swap guide will help you? http://importnut.net/300zxbrakeswap.htm

I looked at your picture again and the only thing I can think of that you arent sure about is the wavy looking washer behind the cotter pin; after you pull the pin out the washer will just slide right off

my bad. and yeah im talking about that wavy thingy. so its just a washer and just slides off?

[az_240]

Is the Tomei shifter supposed to have about 10mm of vertical play (moves up and down on shifter plate)???

Does it use the OEM upper plastic ring piece? The one without the pins...

All the installs I've seen don't include this.... but that's the only thing I can think of.

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by GL Chrillz

So i have very little braking on my s13. pedal is firm all the way down, fluid comes out of all 4 corners just fine when i bleed the brakes (bled them 10 times) new calipers all around, new master, bled the master before install, i have 1 new rubber hose on the rear pass side, just installed a new (used, but working) booster. i am stumped. could one or more of the rubber hoses that i havent changed yet give me no braking?

Edit: i have project mu pads on stock calipers, and the e brake wont even lock up the rear tires when driving. if i pull the e brake, it stops me just as slowly as if i pressed the brake pedal

Huh?

The parking brake should not bring the car to a screeching stop, you're just pulling on wires that go to the rear brakes... the reason you can brake the rear away is that when you're trying to start a drift or something, you're already at the edge of your tires grip - so they can lock more easily, having less to overcome.

Assuming your pedal stops the car (locks the wheels or comes close) and your handbrake works, I don't get what you're complaining about. Bleeding the brakes more times, or replacing random hoses, will do absolutely NOTHING. Is there anything now that's dramatically worse than before you started?

[az_240]

Found this on ebay... picture shows a upper aluminum collar circled in red that I've never seen before.

I do have the lower aluminum collar installed but I guess I need an upper one as well....I measured and should be about 5-6mm thick. Can anyone confirm?

All the pics I've seen online do not include this so a little confused.

[GL Chrillz]

Originally Posted by mechanicalmoron

Huh?

The parking brake should not bring the car to a screeching stop, you're just pulling on wires that go to the rear brakes... the reason you can brake the rear away is that when you're trying to start a drift or something, you're already at the edge of your tires grip - so they can lock more easily, having less to overcome.

Assuming your pedal stops the car (locks the wheels or comes close) and your handbrake works, I don't get what you're complaining about. Bleeding the brakes more times, or replacing random hoses, will do absolutely NOTHING. Is there anything now that's dramatically worse than before you started?

i did a complete chassis swap, and since i got the new car running i have to stand on the brake pedal and basically i wouldn't be able to avoid hitting something in front of me if it was 100 feet away from where i hit the brake pedal. which, i should be able to brake faster than that if everything was operating correctly

[theStig880]

My redtop Sr20 will not start and I am running out of ideas. I posted earlier and was recommended that my starter was the issue. I replaced my old starter with a known good one and it still will not start on its on. It used to click rapidly so I had the battery charged.

Now it sounds like it wants to turnover for a second and then makes no noise at all. The perplexing part is that it will start and run perfectly if I jump it off. So I have a new battery and working starter but it wont start up on its own.

[zenki 95]

Check your connection grounds. If it starts jumped either means bad batt and connections or a crazy draw somewhere

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[solo_ryder]

KA-T issues.. Idles and runs super rich, below 10:1 af. Enthalpy tune, n62, 370cc, bkr6e-11 gapped to about .36

Vac at 22-24hg at idle warm

.486volts at maf output when key is in the on position
1.1 to 1.2ish when running
One ground wire to chassis one to ECU

Stock fuel pump, stock fpr, injectors dont leak.. New o rings and tested with rail off they wont leak when fuel pump priming.

NO ecu codes except 55 which is fine.

What should I look at next? Maybe combining grounds on maf??? Bad tune maybe (it is not a new tune, bought through someone else)?? I had a code for knock and maf the day before and reset them and the car ran perfect for about 1 minute.. 14-15 a/f on idle then all off a sudden drops to 10:1.. no codes though

[terrance john]

Originally Posted by jaaanrel

can someone tell me the all the parts i need to swap in a j30 vlsd into a 91 240sx non abs and what needs to be swapped out? what year j30 diff is the best? or should i go with another diff? etc. just looking for some advice. thanks

I would like this question answered also


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[eZiR- rps13]

Originally Posted by terrance john

I would like this question answered also


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are you referring to just swapping the entire diff?, if so just need an abs driveshaft and for it to have the 6 bolt axles...
as for swapping the internals, I've done several, one of the output shafts need to be grinded down a bit ... and other stuff

[Arrowking]

My speedo doesn't begin to read until about 30ish mph. And when it does read it begins at 0 so 70mph reads at 45mph. Is there a screw on the back of the speedo to adjust this? I've read that there is but cannot find one except a "2P" screw but I'm not sure if it's right.

[JBB]

Originally Posted by JBB

Ok, this might be a stupid question so please dont flame me.
Im about to drop an sr into my car; it has s15 injectors/turbo, z32 maf, and your basic bolt on mods such as lightened flywheel, aftermarket clutch, 3" elbow/downpipe/exhaust, tubular manifold, large front mount intercooler, etc.. My friend is saying that we shouldnt start it up and that I should go to the place that Im getting it tuned and have them put a base map on my ECU so that we can start it and then granny drive it to the shop. Is this necessary?

EDIT: to clarify the question, is acquiring the base map for initial start up necessary? Will I be alright to start the engine, check for leaks, etc, and drive [in vacuum] to the tuner?

Anyone?

[GL Chrillz]

Originally Posted by Arrowking

My speedo doesn't begin to read until about 30ish mph. And when it does read it begins at 0 so 70mph reads at 45mph. Is there a screw on the back of the speedo to adjust this? I've read that there is but cannot find one except a "2P" screw but I'm not sure if it's right.

are you sure its not the VSS?

[Arrowking]

Originally Posted by GL Chrillz

are you sure its not the VSS?

Yep, I already changed it (the gear was originally stripped) and checked it.

[solo_ryder]

Originally Posted by JBB

Anyone?

Probably will run like shit with oversized injectors. Make sure you have a air fuel gauge hooked up. But I would feel safer going with a base map

[S14jake]

I've seen a ton of threads about using a kade power steering pump on an sr. My question is, are the s13 and 14 pumps the same? I'm looking around and seeing different part numbers and prices.

Cheapest dual cam pump is ok for a redtop?

[Matej]

Do most OEM Nissan wheels use 60-degree taper lug nuts, same as aftermarket wheels?