Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[iknow666]

Hey all. 1989 Nissan 240sxSE with a KA24DE(twin cam) under the hood.
Symptoms:
-Shakes HARD when idling
-Sputters when accelerating
-Extreme loss of power and acceleration
-struggles and shakes to get up to speed but can get up to 100mph
-only shakes when idling and when pressing gas pedal
-shaking stops when in gear but not pressing gas pedal
-gas pedal sticks in morning at at night (cold weather?)
-gas pedal sticking started 1 week after shaking/struggling started
-car sounds like a motorcycle now! increased exhaust volume

Info about Car:
- 2 1/2" Straight piping exhaust (no catalytic converter)
-Engine/motor mounts/bushings/spark plugs and wires were replaced 11 months ago
-MAF replaced 4 months ago
-Fuel injectors recently replaced
-fuel pump replaced 6 months ago
-exhaust system specialty shop assures me my muffler is not clogged and exhaust appears to be fine

Any and all suggestions/inquiries are EXTREMELY appreciated.
Thank you

[da_crew10]

Wondering if anyone can help. I removed the factory bushing from my s14 flca, I accidentally removed the metal cylinder that holds the bushing, I bought the whiteline flca bushing because it comes with the metal sleeve but the hole is bigger than the width of the bushing, does anyone know what I need to do?

here is a pic

[89hatchman]

Originally Posted by Drose

It's a s13with a VH swap but s13 body harness and KA lower harness. Thank you appreciate any help.

how difficult is a VH swap? I found a few build threads but no walk throughs for the swap. Can you use the stock intake manifold? I saw threads where someone had to make a custom one to clear the hood

[iammikeol]

what blow off valves are good for a stock tune+stock setup w/ just a FMIC. ive heard the hks ssqv is good cause it doesn't leak or something at idle and it doesn't make your car run too bad. what else is okay to run? thanks.
and how are the knock off HKS SSQV's are they a no go?

[hOngsterr]

turbosmart plumb back

[acslater9]

I have saved up some cash and I'm able to get an engine (sr20,rb20,ca18) but I am also considering getting some coils to drop my car.

Should I get some coils and save up for an engine later? Or get the engine then get the coils? Thanks

[Fries]

Originally Posted by acslater9

I have saved up some cash and I'm able to get an engine (sr20,rb20,ca18) but I am also considering getting some coils to drop my car.

Should I get some coils and save up for an engine later? Or get the engine then get the coils? Thanks

If you have just enough to get the engine it'll be a while till you can actually install it. I'd say any swap will be about $4000 including the motor for a super basic install.

Coilovers will immediately make your car look better and require no real other mods, unless you drop it too much, to enjoy.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

[acslater9]

Originally Posted by Fries

If you have just enough to get the engine it'll be a while till you can actually install it. I'd say any swap will be about $4000 including the motor for a super basic install.

Coilovers will immediately make your car look better and require no real other mods, unless you drop it too much, to enjoy.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the insight, coilovers it is.

[mr.nismo.]

Originally Posted by acslater9

Thanks for the insight, coilovers it is.

Suspension mods to support power mods

[Juantwo3]

Does anyone have a recommended brand to look at when purchasing a catalytic converter?


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[VNG704]

Originally Posted by Juantwo3

Does anyone have a recommended brand to look at when purchasing a catalytic converter?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

here are a few examples http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t...ighlight=catco

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by acslater9

I have saved up some cash and I'm able to get an engine (sr20,rb20,ca18) but I am also considering getting some coils to drop my car.

Should I get some coils and save up for an engine later? Or get the engine then get the coils? Thanks

I have always made it a basic rule to go:
Brakes, Suspension, Wheels and Tires, then power mods. Power mods will get you AFU without the rest

[da_crew10]

Ok well I got replacement flca, but now I have extras and this might be my only way I could use them.
Anyone know where I can get these weld on adjustable heim joints?
I thought battle version made some but they are not posted on their site .

[WERDdabuilder]

anyone know the part# or where to source this little plastic piece that goes on to the power window regulator? mine is worn down and the window moves/rattles. ive searched and i dont see it listed on parts diagrams.

[Rampage]

This is a bit of a personal dilemma but here goes. I'm trying to get about 9 degrees of camber (obviously not for functional purposes) in the front, and I thought I was doing things right. I have PBM pro coils for my S14, the ones that come with an oval notch so that should give me about 2 degrees there. I also have Max FLCA/Tension Rod combo, the camber plates pushed all the way in (towards engine) and yes I moved the screws to push the strut in as much as possible. I even got as desperate as to buying a Whiteline camber bolt kit and throwing that in the lower notch for even more supposed camber, with the tab facing the hub.
I've taken my Kouki to an alignment shop and the guy can't crack -4.9 degrees of camber, is it just me or is that crazy.
Is there a way I can notch extra holes on my camber plate for more clearance? I don't want to notch my coils just yet. Besides I need a bit more clearance from the top of my wheel, and I know the FLCA doesn't really offer that. Anyone have any input on this? It would be much appreciated!

[Irresistible]

Originally Posted by da_crew10

Wondering if anyone can help. I removed the factory bushing from my s14 flca, I accidentally removed the metal cylinder that holds the bushing, I bought the whiteline flca bushing because it comes with the metal sleeve but the hole is bigger than the width of the bushing, does anyone know what I need to do?

here is a pic

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...pse52a796b.jpg

I just replaced mine with Energy bushings, and used a press, same thing happened. Turns out you need to keep the OEM bushing cup sleeve thing in there. So I just lit the fucking thing on fire to burn the old bushing out, then pressed the sleeve cup thing back in. I used a vice to press it in... Worked fine. Lol.

[Irresistible]

I'm about to replace my clutch and basically everything that goes with it. I have an ACT 6 puck kit, is it recommended to use the ACT throw out bearing that comes with, or should I just go out and buy an OEM one?

[Confuzedd]

Recently painted my car and now I regret the color. How long can I wait to change the color again ? I plan on going widebody

[Nissansota240]

Originally Posted by Irresistible

I'm about to replace my clutch and basically everything that goes with it. I have an ACT 6 puck kit, is it recommended to use the ACT throw out bearing that comes with, or should I just go out and buy an OEM one?

I went with the oem one for my car, didn't notice any issue. Few other friends ran oem as well.

[finalresort]

Anyone Know where to buy the bolt thats holds the Two halfs of a 300zx caliper together mine only came with 2... I need two more.

[bmxer882x]

Originally Posted by Confuzedd

Recently painted my car and now I regret the color. How long can I wait to change the color again ? I plan on going widebody

About a week in 70 degree weather. Little longer since it's cold. You just want that paint to be fully cured.

[Gar9854]

Im looking into running a greddy manifold on my sr and the only real question I have is greddy the only company that makes a swivel for our stock fpr? I asked Damon (camryonbronze) and he got his years ago from someone here but I can only find a greddy one

[s14Art]

How's it going fellow Zilvians?

I'm new to Zilvia and I'm already liking this forum. I've owned a stage 2 supercharged e36 m3 and a 2.7tt Audi B5 S4 in the past, so I may know a little about FI, but not too much.

So I recently picked up an s14 with an SR20 with a stock t25 turbo. It has the following mods:

-Greddy FMIC
-Greddy BOV
-Greddy Down-pipe
-Greddy Ti Exhaust
-Aluminium Radiator

I am looking to get a reasonable 300 hp to the wheels for this car. First things first, is this safely doable?

I've done my research and I'm getting a variety of opinions. I'm sure there are plenty of ways to make 300hp out of an SR20, but I'd like to know the correct, reliable, and safe way of doing so.

One person suggested the following:

-Z32 MAF
-550cc or 740cc injectors
-T28 s15 turbo
-AEM EMS
-AEM TRU boost gauge
-Wideband

Someone else suggested simply a T28, bigger injectors, and a tune.

What I don't get is, what is a "tune"? By getting the AEM EMS installed, is that considered a tune?

Please chime in and let me know if you guys think this is the right path to safely push 300hp. If you have better suggestions, please provide them.

I'd also like someone to explain the concept of getting a tune.

Thanks,
Art

[89hatchman]

Originally Posted by s14Art

How's it going fellow Zilvians?

I'm new to Zilvia and I'm already liking this forum. I've owned a stage 2 supercharged e36 m3 and a 2.7tt Audi B5 S4 in the past, so I may know a little about FI, but not too much.

So I recently picked up an s14 with an SR20 with a stock t25 turbo. It has the following mods:

-Greddy FMIC
-Greddy BOV
-Greddy Down-pipe
-Greddy Ti Exhaust
-Aluminium Radiator

I am looking to get a reasonable 300 hp to the wheels for this car. First things first, is this safely doable?

I've done my research and I'm getting a variety of opinions. I'm sure there are plenty of ways to make 300hp out of an SR20, but I'd like to know the correct, reliable, and safe way of doing so.

One person suggested the following:

-Z32 MAF
-550cc or 740cc injectors
-T28 s15 turbo
-AEM EMS
-AEM TRU boost gauge
-Wideband

Someone else suggested simply a T28, bigger injectors, and a tune.

What I don't get is, what is a "tune"? By getting the AEM EMS installed, is that considered a tune?

Please chime in and let me know if you guys think this is the right path to safely push 300hp. If you have better suggestions, please provide them.

I'd also like someone to explain the concept of getting a tune.

Thanks,
Art

I know a guy who is running 400 some whp on stock internals on a power FC. I'm actually taking my car in to get it tuned, hoping to get around 350 or so to the wheels on stock internals, so ya, it's safely doable.

A tune is where you take it to a dyno, or on the road and do some pulls to get the air fuel ratio and ignition timing just right to prevent your engine from running too rich or too lean and knocking. The way you change the settings is through a rom chip on your ECU, an SAFC, a piggy back, or a stand alone. They all either modify the signals going into the ECU, tricking it into running a certain way, or a standalone which just takes the spot of the ECU and you plug in your computer and input settings

I've heard you can get 300 whp on a Z32 Maf, 550cc injectors and an SAFC but I've also heard that it won't run well and it'll end up as mostly a track car.

The route I went is a GT2871r, 1000cc ID injectors, running E85, Haltech standalone, circuit sport fuel rail and an AEM FPR. With this and a tune I'm hoping to get a car that puts out 350 or so whp reliably to the wheels and still starts up and idles like a daily driver. Everything new and the tune will run me about 4k or so

[s14Art]

Originally Posted by 89hatchman

I know a guy who is running 400 some whp on stock internals on a power FC. I'm actually taking my car in to get it tuned, hoping to get around 350 or so to the wheels on stock internals, so ya, it's safely doable.

A tune is where you take it to a dyno, or on the road and do some pulls to get the air fuel ratio and ignition timing just right to prevent your engine from running too rich or too lean and knocking. The way you change the settings is through a rom chip on your ECU, an SAFC, a piggy back, or a stand alone. They all either modify the signals going into the ECU, tricking it into running a certain way, or a standalone which just takes the spot of the ECU and you plug in your computer and input settings

I've heard you can get 300 whp on a Z32 Maf, 550cc injectors and an SAFC but I've also heard that it won't run well and it'll end up as mostly a track car.

The route I went is a GT2871r, 1000cc ID injectors, running E85, Haltech standalone, circuit sport fuel rail and an AEM FPR. With this and a tune I'm hoping to get a car that puts out 350 or so whp reliably to the wheels and still starts up and idles like a daily driver. Everything new and the tune will run me about 4k or so

What is a power FC, and what is an SAFC?

a GT2871r and a T28 are different turbos, correct?

Also, what is an AEM FPR?

[89hatchman]

Originally Posted by s14Art

What is a power FC, and what is an SAFC?

a GT2871r and a T28 are different turbos, correct?

Also, what is an AEM FPR?

To my knowledge Power FC is a stand alone ecu that takes the place of your stock ecu and runs your motor. SAFC stands for (something) air fuel controller and tricks your ecu into thinking there is more or less air to get it to send more or less fuel.

GT2871r is a ball bearing turbo, the T28 is the turbo you'll find on an S14 SR. I believe it's journal bearing.

AEM is a brand, an FPR is a fuel pressure regulator. It keeps your fuel rail at 3-4 BAR, depending on what you tune it at.

[89hatchman]

How do you install an oil pressure sensor along side your stock one? I have a haltech oil pressure sensor I'd like to install for my stand alone system. But from what I understand the stock oil pressure sensor is 1/8 BPST and the haltech sensor is 1/8 npt. I'd like to run both of them just so the dummy light isn't on all the time, but the only thing I could think of would be a massive Adapter/T tree coming off the block.

1/8 BPST on the block > 1/8 NPT adapter > 1/8 NPT T fitting > haltech sensor on one side and a 1/8 BPST adapter on the other > stock oil pressure sensor

[Irresistible]

Originally Posted by 89hatchman

How do you install an oil pressure sensor along side your stock one? I have a haltech oil pressure sensor I'd like to install for my stand alone system. But from what I understand the stock oil pressure sensor is 1/8 BPST and the haltech sensor is 1/8 npt. I'd like to run both of them just so the dummy light isn't on all the time, but the only thing I could think of would be a massive Adapter/T tree coming off the block.

1/8 BPST on the block > 1/8 NPT adapter > 1/8 NPT T fitting > haltech sensor on one side and a 1/8 BPST adapter on the other > stock oil pressure sensor

Nissport type adapter. But good luck reaching them.

Here's what I ordered the other day:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-IMPRE...item2336698e50

Says its for Subaru, but it says the male and the female threads are 1/8bpst, and one female 1/8npt thread on the side.

Same thing as the Nissport product, but instead of 3 like they have, this one only has 1. Hopefully it works out.

[stevenrapids]

Originally Posted by Irresistible

I'm about to replace my clutch and basically everything that goes with it. I have an ACT 6 puck kit, is it recommended to use the ACT throw out bearing that comes with, or should I just go out and buy an OEM one?

When i installed my clutchmasters kit, I noticed the Throw out bearing it came with was a little different than the oem one. I ended up using the the one it came with instead of a new oem one and havent had any trouble. You'll most likely have to adjust your clutch pedal after install as well. Mine wouldnt go into gear with the car running until i adjusted it.

[Irresistible]

Originally Posted by Nissansota240

I went with the oem one for my car, didn't notice any issue. Few other friends ran oem as well.

Originally Posted by stevenrapids

When i installed my clutchmasters kit, I noticed the Throw out bearing it came with was a little different than the oem one. I ended up using the the one it came with instead of a new oem one and havent had any trouble. You'll most likely have to adjust your clutch pedal after install as well. Mine wouldnt go into gear with the car running until i adjusted it.

Word. I'll just use the ACT throw out that the kit came with. Hopefully it doesn't blow up so I don't have to drop my trans again.