Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[89hatchman]

what weight oil should I be running in my SR20DET?

I've read that the heavier oils help protect the parts where metal touches metal, like on the journal bearings for the rod and what not. The more viscous it is the less likely it is to be squeezed in.

But a guy I talked to who is running a 400 some whp SR20DET is running 5w-30 oil with his reason being that it gets to all the parts of the engine much quicker. Reducing the time the engine might run without flow to some parts.

What is true? I was running 15w-50 Mobil 1 synthetic for the past seasons with no problems, even the one time it was below freezing out and i had to take my car to work. But this guy is running 5w-30 conventional and has been for 2-3 years now with no mechanical problems.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by chato de shamrock

My 1996 daily driver is slightly lowered to where if you looked at it from the side it seems the center of the wheelwell and top of the tire are about touching each other. I'm currently driving around on 18x9's 225/40 tires and with the stock spare tire in the trunk, a 15x5 or thereabout. I mounted the spare to see if i can drive around in it should i get a flat tire. It works but it drops the corner the spare is mounted on so much (about 4 fingers off the ground if i remember correctly) i'd have to drive very slow and carefully and would have one hell of a time getting up driveways. I want to keep my trunk accessible for my daily routines; work, grocery shopping, etc but i'd like to have a larger spare so my car doesn't sit so damn low with the spare on.

My question is how wide or big a wheel/tire can i get to fit in the spare tire space of my trunk and avoid having the board and rug be all wobbly in the center. I'd like the board to remain seated flush and not protrude upwards because of a wide wheel. What sizes have worked for you guys? Links to this topic would also help. I'm almost certain I read about this a while ago but after searching on here and coming up short, i'm wondering if it was some other website I read this about.

Thanks in advanced.

Before you go buying that 185-60-15, measure your OD on the 18's on your daily drifter. Buy a 15" tire with the same OD and run that. Many say run the spare only on a non power corner and don't go running it beyond a day or two, but if you buy a 'real' tire that matches the OD of the 18's run it on the front...this will keep you on the road while you get a new 18, and running it on the front will slow you down too

[that_one_coupe]

About to sell a stock exhaust but I'm having second thoughts after looking at people getting fix-it tickets. It'd be mighty dumb of me to get one after selling a stock exhaust. Any opinions/advice? (BTW I have an aftermarket exhaust in case it wasn't recognized)

[hOngsterr]

I've purchased the bride FG rails would i need better seat brackets for a bucket seat? Since i visit the track occasionally or would the ones that come with the FG rails be good enough

I'm getting a recaro profi spg seat.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by that_one_coupe

About to sell a stock exhaust but I'm having second thoughts after looking at people getting fix-it tickets. It'd be mighty dumb of me to get one after selling a stock exhaust. Any opinions/advice? (BTW I have an aftermarket exhaust in case it wasn't recognized)

When I got my first zenki, I liked the aftermarket exhaust but saw it had issues. It was overly loud(not a issue for me, but for popo), it hung too far down, and it didn't quite look right.
Looking at the OE system from Calsonic sitting on my back 'put it here' spot under the deck, I noted the smoother lines and they way it tucked, and an idea came to mind.
Buy the correct bends that are mandrel bent from Summit, get the straight tubes and then a stainless Non Flowmaster dual exit Muffler and a pair of slant tips. The finishing move would be some basic silver ceramic exhaust paint in a basic OE color for a system that would look dead stock with some slightly flashy tips and sound maybe like it was a little worn through, but subtly louder than oe and still meeting the 93dB rule.
I have since found an old OBX that meets these requirements and all I need to do is swap out the single exit for a dual exit and it will be louder, run better due to 2.5" and look good

[chato de shamrock]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

Before you go buying that 185-60-15, measure your OD on the 18's on your daily drifter. Buy a 15" tire with the same OD and run that. Many say run the spare only on a non power corner and don't go running it beyond a day or two, but if you buy a 'real' tire that matches the OD of the 18's run it on the front...this will keep you on the road while you get a new 18, and running it on the front will slow you down too

Mind explaining what OD stands for? Something dimensions? Outer?

[ze12o]

Originally Posted by chato de shamrock

Mind explaining what OD stands for? Something dimensions? Outer?

OD = Outer Diameter



Where can I get nissan front and rear badges for a kouki s13

[TheRealSy90]

Originally Posted by 89hatchman

what weight oil should I be running in my SR20DET?

Stick with the Mobil1 15w-50. I've been using it for over 5 years which included 2 winters in Idaho and 3 summers in southern Arizona no problems.

Originally Posted by ze12o

Where can I get nissan front and rear badges for a kouki s13

IIRC the rear Nissan badge that goes on the hatch is impossible to find now.

[ze12o]

........................

[jdm60]

Im trying to restore my rear subframe on my S14.

Is it okay if I rattle can it for the time being, as opposed to professionally painting or powder coating it?

[sleepyS14se]

Originally Posted by jdm60

Im trying to restore my rear subframe on my S14.

Is it okay if I rattle can it for the time being, as opposed to professionally painting of powder coating it?

yes painting it would be just fine just be sure your surfaces are clean!!






MY QUESTION:

is 95 96 zenki oem foglights a good deal for 30 bucks?

[jdm60]

Originally Posted by sleepyS14se

yes painting it would be just fine just be sure your surfaces are clean!!

MY QUESTION:

is 95 96 zenki oem foglights a good deal for 30 bucks?

Awesome thanks!

And that price sounds about right, I paid 40 for mine

[ChadMcGarity]

What parts do I NEED to stance the car at 4 degrees all around.

I have coilovers.

Do I need LCA's?

[sleepyS14se]

Originally Posted by jdm60

Im trying to restore my rear subframe on my S14.

Is it okay if I rattle can it for the time being, as opposed to professionally painting or powder coating it?

i bought my spare subframe for 20 bucks! i am refinishing mine also and plan on doing the bushings etc...the typical stuff

[jdm60]

Originally Posted by sleepyS14se

i bought my spare subframe for 20 bucks! i am refinishing mine also and plan on doing the bushings etc...the typical stuff

Nice. Yeah I am in the middle of my swap and I want to just get the car running for now, and want to remove any rust from the subcrame but powder coat and painting is a little out of budget now

[[240sx]]

Originally Posted by that_one_coupe

About to sell a stock exhaust but I'm having second thoughts after looking at people getting fix-it tickets. It'd be mighty dumb of me to get one after selling a stock exhaust. Any opinions/advice? (BTW I have an aftermarket exhaust in case it wasn't recognized)

Unless you're strapped for $$/space, KEEP IT. You'll never know when you'll need it, beside... you won't get much for it anyways. Currently my 95 has the JVTR cat back and it does sound nice/very noticable... and I usually hate 4bangers w/ exhausts.lol. So far so good w/ the police, tho where you live/drive though makes a difference.

[TN4sty 305]

Wanted to know if any of you have dealt with Driftworks.com Im planning on buying 18x12 et0 Rota GT-R D's and I wanna know if they are reliable to buy from and if anyone has had any problems with shipping to the US? Get your Rota GTR-D 18" Wheels - All colours from Driftworks.com

[sleepyS14se]

Originally Posted by jdm60

Nice. Yeah I am in the middle of my swap and I want to just get the car running for now, and want to remove any rust from the subcrame but powder coat and painting is a little out of budget now

use POR 15 on the subframe. it will look excellent and will prevent future rusting.

[ClutchSmoke]

How much should I pay for a S13 Hatch shell, with the interior? No motor or trans. Body looks pretty clean, frame rails are good.

[FKNGRSY]

It's hard to assess a car's value sight unseen.

[ClutchSmoke]

Originally Posted by FKNGRSY

It's hard to assess a car's value sight unseen.

Thats why I was wondering, because Its four hours from me too.

[WERDdabuilder]

S13 coupe and hatch trunk release cable the same?

[jdm60]

Originally Posted by ClutchSmoke

How much should I pay for a S13 Hatch shell, with the interior? No motor or trans. Body looks pretty clean, frame rails are good.

Is the suspension stock?
I'd say a grand or so..

[hOngsterr]

Originally Posted by WERDdabuilder

S13 coupe and hatch trunk release cable the same?

should be, and s14 also.

[ClutchSmoke]

Originally Posted by jdm60

Is the suspension stock?
I'd say a grand or so..

I think so.

[89hatchman]

Question about a redtop sr20det cam's timing. As long as the colored chain links are on the 2 dimpled teeth on the cam sprocket and the 1 dimpled tooth on the crank sprocket my timing is set right? It's just weird. I have it all set up and I have slack on the tight side and to get rid of it I have to turn the crank a little bit which leaves the head at "TDC" but the crank and pistons at a little past it.

[Nikzilla]

Originally Posted by 89hatchman

Question about a redtop sr20det cam's timing. As long as the colored chain links are on the 2 dimpled teeth on the cam sprocket and the 1 dimpled tooth on the crank sprocket my timing is set right? It's just weird. I have it all set up and I have slack on the tight side and to get rid of it I have to turn the crank a little bit which leaves the head at "TDC" but the crank and pistons at a little past it.

It's fine. The head is at "TDC" when there is no slack on the right and top side of the chain, only slack on the left side, in other words, you have to set the crank at TDC while rotating it clockwise, so that the head comes to TDC under tension.

[jptalaga]

Hello everyone, I've been having this recent problem with my turn signal switch, whenever i click it left or right it to turn, and whenever my wheel straightens out, it doesnt disengage and turn off automatically.. its not a big problem it just gets annoying having to put it in its neutral position itself. has anyone had this problem? Pms would be much appreciated. thank you.

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by jptalaga

Hello everyone, I've been having this recent problem with my turn signal switch, whenever i click it left or right it to turn, and whenever my wheel straightens out, it doesnt disengage and turn off automatically.. its not a big problem it just gets annoying having to put it in its neutral position itself. has anyone had this problem? Pms would be much appreciated. thank you.

Even if you over correct does it sill not?
Do you have an aftermarket hub / wheel?

If all stock ether the cam or the switch is worn out.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by va240dude

Anybody know how to remove this door glue/goo that comes on from the factory? Goo gone doesn't do anything haha

Acetone, Naptha, or even the stuff called weatherstrip adhesive solvent. Not all 'goo's are the same (as in not all are butyl tape) so they can be a bear to remove. without the right chemical hookup.

Originally Posted by 89hatchman

what weight oil should I be running in my SR20DET?

I've read that the heavier oils help protect the parts where metal touches metal, like on the journal bearings for the rod and what not. The more viscous it is the less likely it is to be squeezed in.

But a guy I talked to who is running a 400 some whp SR20DET is running 5w-30 oil with his reason being that it gets to all the parts of the engine much quicker. Reducing the time the engine might run without flow to some parts.

What is true? I was running 15w-50 Mobil 1 synthetic for the past seasons with no problems, even the one time it was below freezing out and i had to take my car to work. But this guy is running 5w-30 conventional and has been for 2-3 years now with no mechanical problems.

Mobile 15w50 is nice, and I used it for years as you couldn't pass up the 5 qt (oil change) jugs at walmart. However about 2 years ago they became harder and harder to find. I then switched to Rotella T6 5w40 and haven't looked back since. Quieter cold starts, better oil pressure on track and better oil pressure in the heat. Not a huge difference, but 5 psi is 5 psi difference (in a good way). Plus, you can't beat the 19.99 price at Advance Auto, and the fact you can get it *anywhere*, from truck stops to mom and pop stores.

Originally Posted by that_one_coupe

About to sell a stock exhaust but I'm having second thoughts after looking at people getting fix-it tickets. It'd be mighty dumb of me to get one after selling a stock exhaust. Any opinions/advice? (BTW I have an aftermarket exhaust in case it wasn't recognized)

I'd sooner keep it then sell it for a few bucks. The second you sell it, is the second you'll need it.

Originally Posted by hOngsterr

I've purchased the bride FG rails would i need better seat brackets for a bucket seat? Since i visit the track occasionally or would the ones that come with the FG rails be good enough

I'm getting a recaro profi spg seat.

So long as they are side mount brackets, you'll be ok.

With that said, be sure to have the sliders as straght as you can get them (or even left to right) as they bind easily if not set right. I lube mine up yearly too.

Originally Posted by jdm60

Im trying to restore my rear subframe on my S14.

Is it okay if I rattle can it for the time being, as opposed to professionally painting or powder coating it?

Sand/grind it down, and then POR-15 it. Just as good as powdercoat in that application and a quality product. A little pricey, but a small can will do the trick. Just make sure you do it out side, or in a vented garage, wear gloves and have something on the floor as that stuff *does not* come off easily

Originally Posted by ChadMcGarity

What parts do I NEED to stance the car at 4 degrees all around.

I have coilovers.

Do I need LCA's?

Front: Upper camber plates, adjustable tension arms, and adjustable tie rod ends

Rear: RUCA, and rear toe arm to adjust toe

You may even need to slot the lower coilover mounts in the front to get more than 3*

Originally Posted by jptalaga

Hello everyone, I've been having this recent problem with my turn signal switch, whenever i click it left or right it to turn, and whenever my wheel straightens out, it doesnt disengage and turn off automatically.. its not a big problem it just gets annoying having to put it in its neutral position itself. has anyone had this problem? Pms would be much appreciated. thank you.

As S14db pointed out, more than likely the signal unit itself. Super easy to change too.