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Old 12-03-2013, 07:58 AM   #15511
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i have a 90 hatch.. i was wondering if anybody had put in a double din head unit, and how it turned out, i.e. how it looked. and if possible,could you post some pics.. im in afghanistan, coming home soon, (i hope) and i havent seen my car in months, so was just wondering if it can be done, andhow much work it is... thanks
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Old 12-03-2013, 08:07 AM   #15512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unnaturalsniper View Post
i have a 90 hatch.. i was wondering if anybody had put in a double din head unit, and how it turned out, i.e. how it looked. and if possible,could you post some pics.. im in afghanistan, coming home soon, (i hope) and i havent seen my car in months, so was just wondering if it can be done, andhow much work it is... thanks
They fit fine, but you have to watch out for the radio trim bezel. 3 out of 4 times I was unable to use it and had to get creative.

Also I have had issues getting the faceplate to release - it's a tight fit. Plus if it is a video unit, you have to be aware of screen tilt functions.

I had to drill holes on the mounting brackets and drop one unit 1/2 inch lower than standard to get the display to slide out without hitting things.
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Old 12-03-2013, 08:09 AM   #15513
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Has anyone tried an NRG Quick Release LOCK on a non-NRG Quick Release? If so please give details. Thanks.
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Old 12-03-2013, 08:22 AM   #15514
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my biggest question is do they just slidein,like the depth is ok?? cause i knowwith the head unitthat is in it now, a single din, the legnth was almost to much because of the tranny well.
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Old 12-03-2013, 09:57 AM   #15515
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s14

[QUOTE=I'm Redline;5492951]

Thanks dude! Tried putting some vents in last night and it looks absolutely terrible hahaha... and I got to say, making cuts in the middle of it is pretty hard with a drill and tin snips. Anyways, checked out that jeg plate, and I think it will just be easier to drill the holes like you're talking about. Going to make a new one out of stainless so the lightening will help as well.

Also, if anybody knows where I can post all of this shit without hogging the small questions forum, that would be cool
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Old 12-03-2013, 10:01 AM   #15516
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unnaturalsniper View Post
my biggest question is do they just slidein,like the depth is ok?? cause i knowwith the head unitthat is in it now, a single din, the legnth was almost to much because of the tranny well.
From my experience, depth is the same, be it 1 or 2. You might have to be careful with how you mount it and stuff though, as it will be easy to lose 1/2 an inch.

Ive now gone to an iPad mini in my dash I got for dirt cheap. Attacked a 2 din bezel with a dremmel, and made some mounting tabs. certainly don't have to worry about depth, but its a tight fit! Mind you, thats in my s14, and Ive never really dug around behind an s13 dash.

*anything is possible*
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Old 12-03-2013, 12:27 PM   #15517
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Quote:
Originally Posted by singlecamslam View Post
What is the proper way to adjust the idle stop screw on an rb25 s2? Where should it be set at?
Are you talking about adjusting the IACV or?
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Old 12-03-2013, 05:42 PM   #15518
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I know that SR20det Coil Pack Cover Bolts are M5 x 0.8mm x 20mm.

my question is are RB20det Coil Pack Cover Bolts the same size?
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Old 12-03-2013, 08:18 PM   #15519
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wsmiteh View Post
From my experience, depth is the same, be it 1 or 2. You might have to be careful with how you mount it and stuff though, as it will be easy to lose 1/2 an inch.

Ive now gone to an iPad mini in my dash I got for dirt cheap. Attacked a 2 din bezel with a dremmel, and made some mounting tabs. certainly don't have to worry about depth, but its a tight fit! Mind you, thats in my s14, and Ive never really dug around behind an s13 dash.

*anything is possible*
i think you should post pics of this, this seems quite interesting!!
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Old 12-03-2013, 08:19 PM   #15520
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Will do! I store car far from my place so next time I'm out there ill snap some pics 👍


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Old 12-04-2013, 01:03 AM   #15521
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Need your opinion on this one folks. Is it worth it for $1500? How much would you pay?

95, 130k miles, Cleant title, valve cover leak, usual chain guide noise, needs new brakes, whole front end is banged up, headlights tabs glued together one is just hanging on there, headlight brackets are bent, retainer is bent, hood is bend, passenger door is dented and so is the rear lower quarter panel as you can see. car ran great besides all the stuff mentioned above. interior is pretty clean except for the one crack down the middle of the dash.


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Old 12-04-2013, 05:31 PM   #15522
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Mehhh I wouldn't say its a steal if I'm honest. Depends whats up for sale where you're living though! You aren't really buying it for the motor, especially if its already having problems, so you have to decide how nice the shell is...
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Old 12-04-2013, 08:51 PM   #15523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codyace View Post
Are you talking about adjusting the IACV or?
No the throttle body stop screw. Mine didnt have one, and just got one so how do i adjust it to the right position? Right before it closes?
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Old 12-04-2013, 11:21 PM   #15524
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i have another question.. if you change the maf sensor on a ka-de, does the ecu need to be reflashed? or is it a standard drop and drive?
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Old 12-04-2013, 11:27 PM   #15525
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Stock maf > stock maf, it just plugs in.

If you go z32 maf or something, then ecu tuning is required. 240 ecu isn't flashable -- you can search for ecu options as it's been discussed plenty.
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Old 12-04-2013, 11:32 PM   #15526
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Quote:
Originally Posted by singlecamslam View Post
No the throttle body stop screw. Mine didnt have one, and just got one so how do i adjust it to the right position? Right before it closes?
Fully closed if you still have the IACV setup.
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Old 12-05-2013, 12:15 AM   #15527
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Anyone have any pictures of navan fog lights brackets?? Need to know how they mount . Mines are missing brackets and im lookkng to make some just need an idea thanks
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Old 12-05-2013, 06:37 AM   #15528
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killer240 View Post
Need your opinion on this one folks. Is it worth it for $1500? How much would you pay?

95, 130k miles, Cleant title
Ya got a spare $6k - $8k lying around to do the repair and engine rebuild + whatever else it needs? Go for it. Of course if I had $6 - $8 thousand laying around, I would look for a car in the $4k range that runs better and looks better.

If you have no issue finding the parts, rebuilding the car from outside in and ground up, do it
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Old 12-05-2013, 09:35 PM   #15529
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failed SMOG in CA. 180,000 miles, original everything i think, new spark plugs, stock intake, custom 2.5 piping fart can exhaust, seafoamed 2 years ago..........My NOXX readings are off the charts... Im gonna look at EGR and seafoam it, besides tune-up (distributor, wires,cap, CAT(hope not))can anybody suggest anything else???
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Old 12-06-2013, 08:40 AM   #15530
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My SR is dumping fuel into the cylinders on start-up, and continues to run rich once it fires up. Would a fouled o2 sensor or MAF have any part in fuel delivery during start-up, or is it more likely that my problem exists in the fuel system itself? Or, could it be something else entirely?
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Old 12-06-2013, 08:57 AM   #15531
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Quote:
Originally Posted by worangejuice View Post
failed SMOG in CA. 180,000 miles, original everything i think, new spark plugs, stock intake, custom 2.5 piping fart can exhaust, seafoamed 2 years ago..........My NOXX readings are off the charts... Im gonna look at EGR and seafoam it, besides tune-up (distributor, wires,cap, CAT(hope not))can anybody suggest anything else???
Note the big TAMPERED. AS long as that is there, you will continue to fail.
Refit and reset the OEM VACUUM LINES and SPARK CONTROLS, and reset TIMING to OEM figures. This will force the TAMPERED to go away.

Now lets see where we can go to fix those CHEMICAL IMBALANCES:

You need to bring both HC, and CO up to balance out and negate the effects of NO in the cat. You can do this by adding a alcohol injector into the bottom of the intake where it, nor it's tank can be seen. OR, you can go find the highest alcohol content fuel you can find, totally drain all high octane fuel out of the system, then run this alky based fuel for the test. The alcohol will break down the O's into CO and H2O's and assist in scrubbing more N2 through the cat so H20 is higher than CO, and HC. This also assists in keeping that N2 separate from the H2O or O2 because the O2 binds to the H2 easier than the N2 can bind 3O's

If you still fail with the loss of TAMPERED, and the alcohol injection, then you will more than likely need a new cat, but the alcohol injection should bring your emissions into tolerance. Filling a 1/4 tank of crap high alcohol content fuel will help too
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Old 12-06-2013, 12:48 PM   #15532
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Is a chattering/rattling at idle, that goes away when I disenguage the clutch, a bad pilot bearing? And will it hurt anything to leave it?

Possibly related, my clutch enguages high in the pedal travel (and I've adjusted it as far as I can to fix this), but pretty hard, and can shudder, depending on the temperture. So, it's pretty well worn, but does grab hard. It just also grabs... wrong, causing the shudder if it's not more carefully feathered than I've ever had to on any other car.

I'm not sure if this noise comes back in gear, as once I'm moving there's gear noise and such to listen through. I've recently become aware I have a very loud transmission.
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Old 12-06-2013, 01:15 PM   #15533
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teh smithers View Post
My SR is dumping fuel into the cylinders on start-up, and continues to run rich once it fires up. Would a fouled o2 sensor or MAF have any part in fuel delivery during start-up, or is it more likely that my problem exists in the fuel system itself? Or, could it be something else entirely?
sounds like faulty o rings on the injectors. Replace all of them, check MAF also
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Old 12-06-2013, 03:00 PM   #15534
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ey guys my friend owed me quite a bit of money so he gave me a 1993 240sx with a kade engine in it.I PLAN (key word plan) to build a decent drift car/dd with power goals of 400-500 hp.i have a few questions about the engines you can swap. i do have a 96 supra single turbo so 2j is out of the question. I don't want to put a ls1 in there because i don't like the feel of the ls1 motor. I want to put the famous sr20 motor in the s13 but the question is whats the best sr20. some friends told me the red top and the black top are two different types of engines from different years. my question is what year is the best to buy an engine from? or is this just a load of bs my friends are feeding me and they are really just the same?
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Old 12-07-2013, 02:28 AM   #15535
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anyone have a wiring harness diagram for a 1995 s14 automatic?

i'm trying to convert my 5spd single cam s13 to the 95 dual cam using this auto harness, but i'm having issues finding which wires to use for the body harness. there's plenty of information on swapping to dual cam 5spd, but the plug for the body harness is way smaller than the one i have from the auto harness. wondering if i might have an obd2 harness?
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Old 12-07-2013, 06:14 AM   #15536
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Where is the fuel pressure regulator located at on a KA24DE? I checked throughout the forums and the internet and nothing shows me where exactly it's located.
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Old 12-07-2013, 07:57 AM   #15537
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Carpet

I hope that I am posting this in the correct thread. I need to purchase new capet for my S13. Everything that I have found so far is listed as HICAS only on the fitment. My first S13 was a HICAS car and my current one is not. As far as I can tell their is no difference in the passanger compartment. Has anyone ran into this and can you confirm whether or not their is a difference in the carpet? Thanks in advance.
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Old 12-07-2013, 12:34 PM   #15538
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Can anyone tell me the thread pitch for the 19mm nut that holds the steering wheel on?
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Old 12-07-2013, 01:11 PM   #15539
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Quote:
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Where is the fuel pressure regulator located at on a KA24DE? I checked throughout the forums and the internet and nothing shows me where exactly it's located.
its at the end of the fuel rail nearest the firewall.

http://www.houston240sx.com/attachme...1&d=1213071477

http://i903.photobucket.com/albums/a...e/DSCN0739.jpg

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I hope that I am posting this in the correct thread. I need to purchase new capet for my S13. Everything that I have found so far is listed as HICAS only on the fitment. My first S13 was a HICAS car and my current one is not. As far as I can tell their is no difference in the passanger compartment. Has anyone ran into this and can you confirm whether or not their is a difference in the carpet? Thanks in advance.
Im sure you can get away with the hicas carpet... I think its mainly the suspension parts of HICAS
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OCD isn't so bad just means you'll spend more money then most people, but you'll have a quality car not a POS put together with POS parts.
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Old 12-07-2013, 03:07 PM   #15540
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CA keyless

soooo… I'm new to the 240sx scene. Im going to buy one by the end of January or February and create a very nice looking clean 240 to take to car meets and shows and right now I'm looking for parts and the names because I'm making a list of components that i want to put on my car. My second car was a nissan sentra 2002 i also own a 2013 nissan sentra, so I'm not new to nissan. i have friends that work for nissan but they don't know much about after market parts. I'm trying to find out about this certain part for the ignition switch. well when you turn on the car i would love to take out the car keys while the car is still on so my keys won't rattle while on the ignition switch. if someone could tell me what kind of modules do i need. i would appreciate it.
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