Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[tengo240]

so i have arp extended studs on the front of my car , i pressed them in at work and i even welded the backs just to be sure . so put on a 20 mm spacer but was still hitting the coilover with my current camber settings , rather than pull out some camber i banged the studs out of 25mm bolt on spacers i had and made them a slip on now , wheels clear fine at full lock and such now . is this a bad idea? i have them torqued properly and i re torqued them after driving a few miles . shouldnt be a problem right?

also in the rear i have a 25mm bolt on but the old studs were able to poke threw just enough that my wheels wouldnt sit flush on the new spacer ,so i put on a 3 or 5mm slip on to help clear the studs . everything is torqued so i should be good right? i will re torque them if needed after a few miles.

i never used spacers before and dont really love them but i noticed that after changing my arms out and other stuff like camber settings and things that they would touch my coilovers or rear body every so often , so i feel like the spacers were a good alternative to having the wheels re sized for now
they are 18x10 +9 and 18x12+9 ,im now using 25mm slip ons in the front and the rear is the 25mm bolt on with 5 mm slip on .so i guess the offset now would be front -16 rears -21.

[bc.]

Originally Posted by tengo240

so i have arp extended studs on the front of my car , i pressed them in at work and i even welded the backs just to be sure . so put on a 20 mm spacer but was still hitting the coilover with my current camber settings , rather than pull out some camber i banged the studs out of 25mm bolt on spacers i had and made them a slip on now , wheels clear fine at full lock and such now . is this a bad idea? i have them torqued properly and i re torqued them after driving a few miles . shouldnt be a problem right?

I am trying to understand the second half of your post here, but not really sure what is going on.

For 1, it is totally pointless to weld the studs onto your hub, because the act of tightening the wheel lugs holds it in. If you needed welds to hold the stud to the hub, it means you don't have a lug on it (or it isn't tightened).

[tengo240]

[QUOTE=bc.;5420335]I am trying to understand the second half of your post here, but not really sure what is going on.

For 1, it is totally pointless to weld the studs onto your hub, because the act of tightening the wheel lugs holds it in. If you needed welds to hold the stud to the hub, it means you don't have a lug on it (or it isn't tightened).

they were in fine , i know it was pointless ,i kinda just did , no real reason .we had a new welding machine at the shop i wanted to use. dumb i know

[tengo240]

i guess i should have just asked , arp extended studs will be fine with a spacer that used to be bolt on but then was made into a slip on by removing the studs?

[jr_ss]

Might want to verify its hub centric, but other than buy correct offset wheels, you should be fine.

[zbarsuglia]

So I noticed that my wheel sits further back than it should.. I know that caster isn't adjustable in the rear so I'm leaning towards a bent control arm.. Does anyone have any input

[bc.]

Originally Posted by zbarsuglia

So I noticed that my wheel sits further back than it should.. I know that caster isn't adjustable in the rear so I'm leaning towards a bent control arm.. Does anyone have any input

What makes you think it sits further back than it should? Did you measure something that tells you that it does or is it just your perception?

[zbarsuglia]

Originally Posted by bc.

What makes you think it sits further back than it should? Did you measure something that tells you that it does or is it just your perception?

Its not hard to tell that it sits further back.. I have three fingers from right side of my tire to my quarter and not even 2 fingers on the other side. My drivers side is dead even and the wheel sits directly in the middle of the fender arch

[ryandriftingfat]

There are alignment variables that can account for that. It could be something bent but that's far from a sure thing.

Go get an alignment.

[juhd]

ok so i need to take off my door panel but my window crank is super glued on. how do i take it off? i tried goo gone but its not reaching the super glue. HELP PLEASE!

[zbarsuglia]

Originally Posted by ryandriftingfat

There are alignment variables that can account for that. It could be something bent but that's far from a sure thing.

Go get an alignment.

Already got one...... >_< didn't help

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by zbarsuglia

Already got one...... >_< didn't help

Thrust angle or 4 wheel?

FSM has geometry measurements in it to check for bent parts.

[soundboy]

What's the size of the drive shaft in a automatic Sr20DET?

Sent from my GT-P3110 using Tapatalk 4

[az_240]

Wanting to rewrap the headliner in my non sunroof S14 with black fabric. How hard is it to remove? Do I really have to take out the rear seats as the FSM shows?

[killer240]

what is the inside diameter of the mb battles?

need to know asap, please.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by 92s13Widebody

welllllll in that case lets say i had a AEM ecu with a gt30r and a greddy intake manifold with a intake and other goodies but stock internals until i have enough money for tomei 270cams should i keep the tanabe?

also i ment to say 2nd to 3rd gear drifts doesnt hold well unless i shift 2nd to 3rd then clutch kick but after that its fine but 1st-2nd gear short drifts with alot of angle it seems to bog down easy after and ovcourse not we beat cars up around here no pussy shifting not double clutching like you should haha

OK, stock internals are still good for 7200rpm+/- shift point. Adding that 270 cam will of course move your rev ability higher, along with your rev cam's usable rev area(236 - 252: off idle to 5500, 252 - 266: 2500 - 6500 rpm, 266 - ^: 4000 - 8000 rpm)
Your Tanabe system will be fine. What you really need is to go somewhere where they know what they are doing, really well, and get your AEM tuned for what you are doing.

In a 1 -2 high angle drift, you are scrubbing rear wheel speed more and more with higher angle. If you are entering the drift as an inertia drift, and not a true powerslide, that is why you are bogging. Same thing for an e-brake entry. You are slowing the rear wheels too much. If you set the car by flicking steering, and can get back into the throttle and slide the tires you won't bog. I have a small piece of back road with a few really nicely set up S's that are 1-2 gear drifts...STOCK KA with intake, ecu, pipe and 205's on SE's... If I enter the corner at speed, flip the steering into an full on inertia entry, kick the clutch so slide the tires and power through the apex, my car doesn't bog. The key is fast entry, inertia based angle that is smoother than ebrake angle, then power THROUGH the apex moment as you car gains angle, but does not lose rear wheel speed.
I think, maybe, you might need to adjust your 'tune' on that AEM, and maybe work on inertia drift style. As the man said in an interview a couple years ago,"Musta drivu fastuh in corner, car usah inertia, fulluh powa through middle and outu." "OH, but I see you have a drift kit on your emergency brake?" "No. Thatuh PARKING BRAKU, mustuh parkah HILL sometime!"
What this grand master of the drift was saying, was no ebrake drift, inertia and power.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0PAo096CS70


and a little more relevant...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxvPdFt16-8

[bc.]

Originally Posted by jaaanrel

ok so i need to take off my door panel but my window crank is super glued on. how do i take it off? i tried goo gone but its not reaching the super glue. HELP PLEASE!

?? The window crank should not be glued on. If I remember correctly, it is slip fit onto a metal dowel and should pull right out with some force. Now if you glued yours on for some reason, that is a different story.

[Magoo1222]

Originally Posted by jaaanrel

ok so i need to take off my door panel but my window crank is super glued on. how do i take it off? i tried goo gone but its not reaching the super glue. HELP PLEASE!

a pair of vice grips, some force, and ordering a new window crank comes to mind

[hOngsterr]

Originally Posted by jaaanrel

ok so i need to take off my door panel but my window crank is super glued on. how do i take it off? i tried goo gone but its not reaching the super glue. HELP PLEASE!

Originally Posted by bc.

?? The window crank should not be glued on. If I remember correctly, it is slip fit onto a metal dowel and should pull right out with some force. Now if you glued yours on for some reason, that is a different story.

yeah if its for s13, the crank should have a clip holding it in.

[FourtyKid]

Which wire is for the fuel level gauge in an S13? My fuel pump has:

Red/Blue
Yellow
Yellow w/ Blue Stripe
Black
White w/ Purple Stripe

I've got it narrowed down to either of the yellow wires. FSM says it's a green wire with a blue stripe, which doesn't make sense. Can anyone else chime in?

[slapnuts240]

Im gettting no power to my ka24de for some reason and i wanted to know if anyone can help because i want to start drive my car soon.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by FourtyKid

Which wire is for the fuel level gauge in an S13? My fuel pump has:

Red/Blue
Yellow
Yellow w/ Blue Stripe
Black
White w/ Purple Stripe

I've got it narrowed down to either of the yellow wires. FSM says it's a green wire with a blue stripe, which doesn't make sense. Can anyone else chime in?

My hunch says you are looking for the yellow/blue stripe wire. Note the position of the FSM wire to what you actually see. Check to make sure they are the 'same wire', and rock on wit you bad self. Remember, yellow and green are just shades of one another in nature. Maybe some guy at the factory ran out of green/blue wire that day

[acslater9]

My car has no muffler but sometimes I can smell gasoline coming from the exhaust, every time I go and look there is no gas on the floor and no leaks from what I see.

Is it normal since I don't have a muffler on my car to sometimes smell gasoline?

[GabAlmighty]

Have an 89 KA24e 5spd. Will an rb20 bolt up to my tranny? Or do I need to get the tranny with the rb20

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by acslater9

My car has no muffler but sometimes I can smell gasoline coming from the exhaust, every time I go and look there is no gas on the floor and no leaks from what I see.

Is it normal since I don't have a muffler on my car to sometimes smell gasoline?

No Cat?

Does the exhaust still exit at the bumper?

[Magoo1222]

Originally Posted by slapnuts240

Im gettting no power to my ka24de for some reason and i wanted to know if anyone can help because i want to start drive my car soon.

can you elaborate?

[EnemyS15]

Nm.. Found what I'm looking for

[stev0n]

Originally Posted by stev0n

I need to know what kind of bulb socket goes into the S15 parking light.

All I found in search was "go to a junkyard" "maybe a maxima or xterra or another Nissan will have the right size". There are no pick & pull type places anywhere near me that have Nissans. So I will have to go to another state to find the closest one that will. Autozone/O'reilly/advance had no clue.

Before I make the trip I need a definitive answer of what car will have a socket that fits. Or even better if someone knows a place online to order them to save me the trip.

I have the low beam, high beam, & turn signals. But having no parking lights is a problem.

Quoting my question, because I have to register this car this week & have to have the lights to do that.

[bc.]

Originally Posted by acslater9

My car has no muffler but sometimes I can smell gasoline coming from the exhaust, every time I go and look there is no gas on the floor and no leaks from what I see.

Is it normal since I don't have a muffler on my car to sometimes smell gasoline?

It is possibly coming from your emissions stuff under the hood. I pulled my carbon canister and evap lines in my KA and found out that my car would leak gas when the tank is full.

[92s13Widebody]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

OK, stock internals are still good for 7200rpm+/- shift point. Adding that 270 cam will of course move your rev ability higher, along with your rev cam's usable rev area(236 - 252: off idle to 5500, 252 - 266: 2500 - 6500 rpm, 266 - ^: 4000 - 8000 rpm)
Your Tanabe system will be fine. What you really need is to go somewhere where they know what they are doing, really well, and get your AEM tuned for what you are doing.

In a 1 -2 high angle drift, you are scrubbing rear wheel speed more and more with higher angle. If you are entering the drift as an inertia drift, and not a true powerslide, that is why you are bogging. Same thing for an e-brake entry. You are slowing the rear wheels too much. If you set the car by flicking steering, and can get back into the throttle and slide the tires you won't bog. I have a small piece of back road with a few really nicely set up S's that are 1-2 gear drifts...STOCK KA with intake, ecu, pipe and 205's on SE's... If I enter the corner at speed, flip the steering into an full on inertia entry, kick the clutch so slide the tires and power through the apex, my car doesn't bog. The key is fast entry, inertia based angle that is smoother than ebrake angle, then power THROUGH the apex moment as you car gains angle, but does not lose rear wheel speed.
I think, maybe, you might need to adjust your 'tune' on that AEM, and maybe work on inertia drift style. As the man said in an interview a couple years ago,"Musta drivu fastuh in corner, car usah inertia, fulluh powa through middle and outu." "OH, but I see you have a drift kit on your emergency brake?" "No. Thatuh PARKING BRAKU, mustuh parkah HILL sometime!"
What this grand master of the drift was saying, was no ebrake drift, inertia and power.

Nippondamic-Let's Go Drift (Green-Bottle DVD Inertia) - YouTube


and a little more relevant...

DUBSTEP N DRIFTING - YouTube

ok cool thanks for all the great info man really helped me out gunna start looking into cams this week and useing less ebrake at the track this weekend see how that goes as for the ecu itll be getting tuned up when i finish up the motor with the cams and head maybe e85