Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[zombiewolf513]

Originally Posted by jorge1190

When installing the oil pump gear only on an SR, do you put sealant on the oil pump cover itself? Not the front cover but the back cover to the actual oil pump.

Youre talking about the phillips screws on the inside of it right? I dont think you do but double check the exploded view of the fsm

[bc.]

Originally Posted by zombiewolf513

Youre talking about the phillips screws on the inside of it right? I dont think you do but double check the exploded view of the fsm

They don't show it apart on the FSM iirc. When I pulled mine apart, there was no sealant or gasket, so I put it together without any sealant. I have 300 miles on the motor now and have had regular oil pressure the whole time.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by e1_griego

My question was rhetorical.

I would like to take you for a ride in a proper koni/bilstein/kw susp with whatever rates so you all can see that you can run stiff rates, but with properly valved shocks it still rides just fine.

That's the point you're missing.

We agree. What you said here ^^^ was the same thing I said. You are referencing good, firm, well valved shocks(progressive suspension settings) that have good, firm springs.
Having driven a few road race cars with kidney killing set ups that were ok on the street but killed the track, we think the same here. Firm, progressive, settings kick ass

[ReaperBJJ]

Does anybody know if 30mm z32 brakes with 350z track rotors will fit behind xxr 530s sized 17x9.75 +25 on all four corners?

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by ReaperBJJ

Does anybody know if 30mm z32 brakes with 350z track rotors will fit behind xxr 530s sized 17x9.75 +25 on all four corners?

Better asked in the wheel fitment thread...

[stillakilla]

For a hatch, do you have to have the foam support for the front bumper to make it not sag? Or will it rest on the metal bumper support without drooping?

[jr_ss]

The main reason you see sag is because there is not center support. It has been or was removed to make room for the FMIC.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by 89SwapXE

Lookin to get my ka24e head port and polish. Anyone knows a shop that does a good job with a decemt price. Socal area. ie area. Pm me if you do. Thanks.

I know this may sound funny, but are you doing a full on race motor or doing it just because? I don't see the point unless it's a wild setup.

Originally Posted by DialedLife

Can you use bolt on spacers if you have extended lugs?

Or would I have to do: slip on spacer and then bolt on spacer?

I'm looking to go about 30mm wider in the front.
Thanks in advance.

Just buy better fitting wheels. I'd go as far as to say that I'd think 30mm spacers would be 'too much' for extended studs as it is.

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

Unbearable ride Quality, and hard ass suspensions do not equal good handling. If a race suspension is run on the street, it is going to be bumpy and unbearable. If on a track that is perfectly smooth with no bumps, it's still hard and barely bearable.
A good suspension is firm, offers firm ride quality and has the ability to soften bumps and such on the road, but it tends to waiver in corners when driven very hard on a track. On a street car, I would opt for a more compliant progressive suspension that is firm and offers a firm ride.
Firm Progressive Suspension = great handling

What do you mean by progressive? I do think a progressive suspension is ideal in any form of anything, as you can never 'always predict' how it will react. Linear spring rates with proper dampers for me.

And truthfully, I'd say my Koni setup rides nicer than any of the competition based, similar priced coilovers. You want the suspension to work with the car not against it.

Originally Posted by jorge1190

When installing the oil pump gear only on an SR, do you put sealant on the oil pump cover itself? Not the front cover but the back cover to the actual oil pump.

No

[HipHopHippo]

Does this rsm
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g5...pexirsm003.jpg

use this manual?
Apex'i Old RSM Manual

Theyre slightly different and Im not sure if it matters

[mau5trap]

Has anyone heard of this company, SSI Exhaust Industrial Co., Ltd.???
I recently bought a turbo and it came with an elbow made by this company...
I'm just wondering if their products are any good.... thanks

heres their link..
Taiwan Export, Manufacture

[hOngsterr]

Originally Posted by stillakilla

For a hatch, do you have to have the foam support for the front bumper to make it not sag? Or will it rest on the metal bumper support without drooping?

the foam is an absorber. It should be fine with the metal impact bar.
But if you're concerned about drooping, there's the 4 bolts that hold the bumper up under the hood., you can play with that.

[simmode1]

What wheels are these?


Yes, I know they are fugly & weak sized. Just need the name. Googled "6 spoke directional wheel" and came up empty. The pic was taken in Japan this spring. The picture taker doesn't know what they are either.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by codyace

1: I know this may sound funny, but are you doing a full on race motor or doing it just because? I don't see the point unless it's a wild setup.


2: What do you mean by progressive? I do think a progressive suspension is ideal in any form of anything, as you can never 'always predict' how it will react. Linear spring rates with proper dampers for me.

And truthfully, I'd say my Koni setup rides nicer than any of the competition based, similar priced coilovers. You want the suspension to work with the car not against it.

Porting and polishing is a GOOD thing for ANY engine. What it does primarily, is make the crappy fuel blends actually work because it helps stop detonation by smoothing the combustion chamber. This is multiplied when GOOD VP/SUNOCO Race Fuel is used

Many companies use progressive springs in the coil over sets. A Progressive spring is one that has stiffer and softer spring rates in the same spring. All the coil overs that are a mix between what I will call 'all out race', and 'basic Stage I Street' use progressive rate springs. Tanabe's 210 'Grip Feeling' is also a progressive rate spring. This is why these firmer coils also have a softer ride that still works well on the street is due to the progressive rated springs

Think of progressive spring rates like a really stiff spring at the top 1/3 of the total spring, a Stage II spring in the center 1/3, and a Stage I spring in the bottom 1/3. If the spring is merely moving across flat tarmac, it offers a smooth compliant ride. If it is driven a little harder, the center is flexed and suppressed and holds a slightly firmer ride quality. If the car is driven hard, the springs flex to the Stage III firmness of the top 1/3 of the spring. The harder the suspension is worked, the firmer the ride becomes.
I have the same style progressive rated springs in my Sportster cafe racer's shocks and forks. The billet racer WORK's shocks are softer when barely moving, but lay into it and they get really stiff. Same as the fork springs with the Gold valve emulators and stiff oil, softer when barely cruising, but lay it into a back road corner and it gets totally stiff and 'racy'

[David48]

I bought some rear Project Mu pads and put them on yesterday. I resurfaced the rotors and what not. They work and all but I can't get them to lock the ebrake. I went sliding at a track last night and the ebrake was kinda awkward. I know it was working because if I was already sideways and grabbed the ebrake it would still lock, but I couldn't get them to lock just to initiate. It's like they aren't grabbing hard enough. Also, I have to pull it up maybe 3-4 clicks higher in my driveway for the car not to roll back. Anyone else ever have any of these issues?
I jacked up the back and verified both wheels are locked when the ebrake is up. I don't think I should tighten the handle because at the first click the pads are already starting to touch the rotor.

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by David48

I bought some rear Project Mu pads and put them on yesterday. I resurfaced the rotors and what not. They work and all but I can't get them to lock the ebrake. I went sliding at a track last night and the ebrake was kinda awkward. I know it was working because if I was already sideways and grabbed the ebrake it would still lock, but I couldn't get them to lock just to initiate. It's like they aren't grabbing hard enough. Also, I have to pull it up maybe 3-4 clicks higher in my driveway for the car not to roll back. Anyone else ever have any of these issues?
I jacked up the back and verified both wheels are locked when the ebrake is up. I don't think I should tighten the handle because at the first click the pads are already starting to touch the rotor.

Did you clock the adjusters back when you compressed?
Park with the hand brake on?

[juhd]

can you adjust the catch point on an exedy oem clutch?

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by jaaanrel

can you adjust the catch point on an exedy oem clutch?

As far as the pedal, yes. Under the dash there is an adjuster on the master cylinder rod where it screws into the fork that pins into the pedal.

[hOngsterr]

Originally Posted by mau5trap

Has anyone heard of this company, SSI Exhaust Industrial Co., Ltd.???
I recently bought a turbo and it came with an elbow made by this company...
I'm just wondering if their products are any good.... thanks

heres their link..
Taiwan Export, Manufacture

GTR GARAGE claims its SILK AUTO.

http://zilvia.net/f/engine/528353-bo...ipe-529-a.html

Originally Posted by S14DB

As far as the pedal, yes. Under the dash there is an adjuster on the master cylinder rod where it screws into the fork that pins into the pedal.

what if we adjust the rod fully and still no adjustments pedal wise for engagement?

[David48]

Originally Posted by S14DB

Did you clock the adjusters back when you compressed?
Park with the hand brake on?

Do you mean compress the brake pistons? Yes i did. I just swapped wheels today and i noticed after one day the driver side pads were still turquoise looking but the passenger side looked pretty dusted over and almost black. Also the edges of the rotor had a pretty bright red rust color. Ill upload some pictures in a bit.

[side-ways-action]

hi how are you guys i'm here in Chicago i am trying to sale my 180sx but i really dont know how to due that can some one please help thanks ..

[zombiewolf513]

1) take english class.
2) go to craigslist

[side-ways-action]

its posted on CL already i was trying to post on on here also. thanks

[codyace]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

Porting and polishing is a GOOD thing for ANY engine. What it does primarily, is make the crappy fuel blends actually work because it helps stop detonation by smoothing the combustion chamber. This is multiplied when GOOD VP/SUNOCO Race Fuel is used

No shit. I never knew that. Tell me more Mr. Science.

Seriously, think about what my reply was and consider the source. Why pay for such work on SOHC engine if it's just going to be put back together somewhat stock and kept that way?

I'm all about pissing money away on dumb shit, and stuff I don't really need, but in the same respect I understand where money should be spent on a street car.

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

Many companies use progressive springs in the coil over sets. A Progressive spring is one that has stiffer and softer spring rates in the same spring. All the blah blah blah blah blah cafe racer's shocks and forks blah blah blah

Again, I know the difference. I've been tracking my car for many years now. Progressive setups may be ok for someone just putzing around, but anyone remotely performance minded will run a regular linear spring, a good damper, and the corresponding good suspension parts and be just fine. My car is full spherical bearing everything, 8611's, and decently rated springs. It rides as nice as a factory car. A good setup is a good setup with the right parts.

The only positive of a progressive rate is for 'daily' driving...and my reply to that would be if you're daily driving a car in a city persay, why not just run a lower spring rate. Anything performance related in a car you want repeatability in action...not 'well if i'm doing 50mph in this corner vs 75, I need to do XXX vs YYY'.

Atop of that progressive springs allow for abnormal changes in body roll as the spring is 'non existant' for a certain amount of time. NOT FOR ME.

PS: Tanabe coilovers are generic run of the mill things. No different than any other similar priced JDM things.

PPS: While I've never tracked cafe style bike, I can say on a sport bike I don't know of anyone who runs a progressive spring.

Originally Posted by jaaanrel

can you adjust the catch point on an exedy oem clutch?

http://zilvia.net/f/s-chassis/297254...al-thread.html

[codyace]

Originally Posted by David48

Do you mean compress the brake pistons? Yes i did. I just swapped wheels today and i noticed after one day the driver side pads were still turquoise looking but the passenger side looked pretty dusted over and almost black. Also the edges of the rotor had a pretty bright red rust color. Ill upload some pictures in a bit.

You may have a caliper that is now stuck/broken. Happens more ofen then not on cars with E brake setups like ours

Originally Posted by side-ways-action

hi how are you guys i'm here in Chicago i am trying to sale my 180sx but i really dont know how to due that can some one please help thanks ..

Did you read the rules/regs of the for forum? 2 posts doesn't allow you to post in the classifieds.

[HazeBlazer]

I was an idiot and I bought s14 sr20 injectors on rail with FPR, when my engine is an s13 sr20det... Does anyone know if those are interchangeable?

Thanks

[e1_griego]

I think you're confusing digressive valving and progressive springs.

Pretty much everyone runs linear springs, but most of the performance shocks (real stuff) have digressive rates (which is why the shock dynos have a 'knee' in them).

Lower, linear rates on the street work fine but with real shocks and higher linear rates the ride quality is still not that bad.

[PeaceOnesxWai]

Some reason my S13 coil packs wont fit in my S13.4 cover... I thought S13 and S14 has the same coil packs? or do I have a S13.5 cover?

[e1_griego]

Should fit fine -- i have s13.4 cover and running original coil packs.

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by PeaceOnesxWai

Some reason my S13 coil packs wont fit in my S13.4 cover... I thought S13 and S14 has the same coil packs? or do I have a S13.5 cover?

Originally Posted by e1_griego

Should fit fine -- i have s13.4 cover and running original coil packs.

If it is an S15 back half, your factory coils will not fit, as the S15 runs narrower coils.

[PeaceOnesxWai]

Originally Posted by jr_ss

If it is an S15 back half, your factory coils will not fit, as the S15 runs narrower coils.

Yea, the S13 coils wont fit in there.. So i guess I have a S13.5 cover now, NICEEEEE


S15 coil packs will work with S13 head? or should I get some Splitfire? or LS1 coils... I know S15 coils have built in ignitors, not sure how this is gonna work.