This is the roll center, suspension pickup, and steering angle modification thread.

[Nissansota240]

Originally Posted by Jorgs_7

Ok here's a question for all:

Not a full blown dedicated drift or track car.

What would be the best combo for most angle, without extending LCA's? So basically, if I wanted to road course the car or drive to work, I don't want -6* of camber.

Combination is in regards to aftermarket knuckles, outter tie rods, inner tie rods, tie rod spacers, ball joints, offset rack bushing, etc.

Just because you extend LCA's doesn't mean you will need to run -6 degrees of camber, all depends on wheel offset to get the best fitment. Also, I would not suggest getting modded knuckles without having extended LCA's, with the added steering angle you will want that knuckle moved out, otherwise you're gonna start to find out what all rubs pretty quickly.

[PoorMans180SX]

I think the increased roll resistance from a drop knuckle combined with the wider front track really offset any negatives associated with not being able to run a really aggressive wheel and tire setup.

[Jorgs_7]

Originally Posted by Nissansota240

Just because you extend LCA's doesn't mean you will need to run -6 degrees of camber, all depends on wheel offset to get the best fitment. Also, I would not suggest getting modded knuckles without having extended LCA's, with the added steering angle you will want that knuckle moved out, otherwise you're gonna start to find out what all rubs pretty quickly.

Well, by the sounds of it, average LCA extensions are about 1" (obviously this can vary). With camber plates and that 1" extension (from what I've read) you will still be at approximately -4* (top plates being positive as possible).

I get the wheel fitment part, if you wanted to get serious about geometry and design, sure. The negative camber (-4 or more) degrees would wear down a street driven car's tires regardless of wheel dimensions.

So your opinion is stock knuckles, unless running extended LCA's.

Good to hear, still looking for all opinions and experiences.

[PoorMans180SX]

If you're doing roadcourse work, gktech stuff would work great. Ackerman really isn't important on a decently sized track, and the quicksteer is nice.

[Jorgs_7]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

If you're doing roadcourse work, gktech stuff would work great. Ackerman really isn't important on a decently sized track, and the quicksteer is nice.

I saw those, that looks like a good option (so it sounds) for what Id like.

It also sounds like a steering rack spacers may be enough for now.

[sr vegas 240]

Got my gktech knuckles put on massive angle than I put my wheels on and back to what it was before. Wheels hit the frame rail. My wheels are enkei j10 18x7.5 38 offset. New wheels are out of the question could I get some spacers to make it fit?

[PoorMans180SX]

Yeah like some 25mm ones haha. Sheesh that's a high offset wheel.

[sr vegas 240]

Yea i know they came with the car so I was thinking 2" spacers because the wheels are tucked under the fenders about 1 3/4" and I hate that look.

[ka-titties]

you need to either extend your LCA's or effectively get lower offset wheels (spacers).

[ka-titties]

GKTech Long LCA and V3 knuckle installed. Achievable angle is just awesome.
My current limitation is also the tire hitting the frame. I have the LCA's set at about 380mm center to center and 18×9.5 +10mm wheels.

[godrifttoday]

Here my setup with the gk 17x10+18 , I don't have an alignment , I'll probably get some smaller wheels

[ka-titties]

What length is your LCA set to?

[derass]

Originally Posted by godrifttoday

I'll probably get some smaller wheels.

Wide wheels and big angle is definitely a pain in the ass. I'm going for a low-offset 17x8 but your LCA's should allow for slightly wider.

[Fab_Lab]

I extend control arms if anyone is interested.
These are extended 32mm, tig welded by a certified welder

[IMG]http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160127/
The notched ones are not available for purchase yet.

d911348c4877b58e65b26f63c1e32ff2.jpg[/IMG]ImageUploadedByTapatalk1453916982.306430.jpg


#FablabImageUploadedByTapatalk1453917206.369295.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1453917508.570186.jpg

[NISR20MO]

Originally Posted by godrifttoday

Here my setup with the gk 17x10+18 , I don't have an alignment , I'll probably get some smaller wheels

Originally Posted by ka-titties

What length is your LCA set to?

You guys are both on stock metal fenders I see, either of you have any on ground pics and wheels straight ahead fender to tire fitment/poke pics?

[godrifttoday]

in this side the fender has not been pulled at all, ill measure later how far i have the extendeted lower control arms , look at the camber setting for the coilover



this side has been pulled, some what, still need to work it, , again look at the camber setting max setting, porbably a total of -8 degree if i had to assume, i need to change tire setup for sure, the tires i have currently were on the wheels when i bought them 225/50 r17

i either have to get wider fenders, change rim size and tire size

[tacotacotaco]

Is anyone actively using the gktech front and rear knuckles on the road and track? Ive had them on for testing before using it on track.

[ka-titties]

Originally Posted by NISR20MO

You guys are both on stock metal fenders I see, either of you have any on ground pics and wheels straight ahead fender to tire fitment/poke pics?

Nothing on the ground yet. I haven't adjusted for camber either. My 'stock metal' fenders have been heavily massaged with a jack handle/bad/tire/etc. They're far from what the OEM fender lip position would be. I had to raise the coilover at least 1.5-2 inches just to be able to put the wheel back on after putting the new knuckles on.

[TheRealSy90]

GkTech roll center knuckles.
S13 lca's extended 1" outside of the tension arms, inside bushings replaced with a 3/4" heim joint.
Voodoo13 tension arms.
Rack mounts moved forward. Passenger side George's rack extension. Driver side PBM tie rod spacer. Removed the rack extension from the driver side as the rack doesn't physically travel enough to make use of it.
OEM Autozone s13 inner and outer tie rods with lifetime warranty.

People like to point out the Ackerman as a bad thing. I personally don't see the issue and did not want a 0 Ackerman car. Looks like I'm getting the same leading angle of their V3 knuckles.

17x10 +0 225/45.






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[dazed]

So aftermarket knuckles + oem length flca + aggressive front wheel setup is no bueno?

I was trying to fix my roll center with PBM knuckles, and figured I might as well get their FLCA too. This isn't a drift car.

S14 - PBM knuckles, PBM flca/ten rod combo (flca set to all the way short), tein inner/outers, slotted coils, and 17x10 -30ish up front. No spacers and 215/40's.

Been slacking on eyeballing the alignment, haven't touched it in a couple weeks. I guess I can play with it more, just making sure I'm understanding things correctly.




PBM tension rod bracket ftw. My old one was destroyed. Yes I know my brake line is just chillin. And normally all my collars are removed, I was under the false impression that the PBM knuckle is a drop knuckle when I first installed it so I had to take them back out.

[DJPimpFlex]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

People like to point out the Ackerman as a bad thing. I personally don't see the issue and did not want a 0 Ackerman car. Looks like I'm getting the same leading angle of their V3 knuckles.

Ackerman isn't bad or good but it makes the biggest difference in drift car handling IMO. In my experience if you stick with that high ackerman stuff you will limit your speed during drift and steering feel.

Originally Posted by dazed

So aftermarket knuckles + oem length flca + aggressive front wheel setup is no bueno?

I was trying to fix my roll center with PBM knuckles, and figured I might as well get their FLCA too. This isn't a drift car.

S14 - PBM knuckles, PBM flca/ten rod combo (flca set to all the way short), tein inner/outers, slotted coils, and 17x10 -30ish up front. No spacers and 215/40's.

Been slacking on eyeballing the alignment, haven't touched it in a couple weeks. I guess I can play with it more, just making sure I'm understanding things correctly.

What is your car for? If it's just stance or looking cool then you're fine. If you are trying to road race or track day you are going to have a bad time with the reduced ackerman.

[TheRealSy90]

Originally Posted by DJPimpFlex

Ackerman isn't bad or good but it makes the biggest difference in drift car handling IMO. In my experience if you stick with that high ackerman stuff you will limit your speed during drift and steering feel.

But at the same time this setup is still a lot less Ackerman than the stock knuckles, and a whole lot more steering angle. So it's not like I'm worse off than when I had stock knuckles. Maybe won't have as high of corner speed as a 0 Ackerman car. But it's gotta be better than a stock knuckle car.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ka-titties]

Originally Posted by dazed

So aftermarket knuckles + oem length flca + aggressive front wheel setup is no bueno?

I was trying to fix my roll center with PBM knuckles, and figured I might as well get their FLCA too. This isn't a drift car.

S14 - PBM knuckles, PBM flca/ten rod combo (flca set to all the way short), tein inner/outers, slotted coils, and 17x10 -30ish up front. No spacers and 215/40's.

Been slacking on eyeballing the alignment, haven't touched it in a couple weeks. I guess I can play with it more, just making sure I'm understanding things correctly.




PBM tension rod bracket ftw. My old one was destroyed. Yes I know my brake line is just chillin. And normally all my collars are removed, I was under the false impression that the PBM knuckle is a drop knuckle when I first installed it so I had to take them back out.

Lengthening your LCA gives your wheels more clearance to the frame. If its not a drift car, leave your LCA stock length.

[Black R]

Originally Posted by ka-titties

GKTech Long LCA and V3 knuckle installed. Achievable angle is just awesome.
My current limitation is also the tire hitting the frame. I have the LCA's set at about 380mm center to center and 18×9.5 +10mm wheels.

How much static camber up front?

[ka-titties]

Originally Posted by Black R

How much static camber up front?

I haven't gotten the chance to put the car on the ground yet or measure camber for that matter.

[dazed]

Originally Posted by DJPimpFlex

What is your car for? If it's just stance or looking cool then you're fine. If you are trying to road race or track day you are going to have a bad time with the reduced ackerman.

Pretty much just the former. So that's good to know, thanks.

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by DJPimpFlex

Ackerman isn't bad or good but it makes the biggest difference in drift car handling IMO. In my experience if you stick with that high ackerman stuff you will limit your speed during drift and steering feel.


What is your car for? If it's just stance or looking cool then you're fine. If you are trying to road race or track day you are going to have a bad time with the reduced ackerman.

I would definitely agree with the first paragraph, but I'd have to disagree with the last one. My car, which has zero ackerman, has awesome turn in and corner bite. I'd say the only difference between my setup and an awesome roadcoarse setup would be the front camber. Mine is quite high at -7* right now.

[LuckyX2]

Ackerman can be tweaked to your liking by moving the steering rack anyway, so it's a moot point. I got the GKTech knuckles even though I use my car in autocross. I'll simply fix the Ackerman with eccentric bushings.

Ideal Ackerman is based of of tire data that's out of the realm of the normal person to collect anyway. This is probably why PoorMan likes 0* while others don't, tire differences.

[TheRealSy90]

I need to see if I can fit eccentric bushings on my rack since the rack mounts have already been moved forward. At that point I might run out of spline engagement on the steering shaft u-joint.

[ka-titties]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

I need to see if I can fit eccentric bushings on my rack since the rack mounts have already been moved forward. At that point I might run out of spline engagement on the steering shaft u-joint.

The tie rods will hit the LCA bolts.