This is the roll center, suspension pickup, and steering angle modification thread.

[derass]

Originally Posted by JDMcheddar

Have you felt there is any benefit to having one over a factory rack?

The FSM shows that the standard rack is 3.1 turns lock to lock, HICAS 2.6. I imagine the benefit of the HICAS rack would be the smaller amount of input required for any sort steering, whether it be initial turn in, feint initiations or mid-corner corrections. I don't think there would be any improvement in counter-steering as the wheel moves faster than your hands can turn it.

[Motary]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

You can't really adjust caster very much with a Wisefab arm. If you think about what is actually happening when you're moving those heims, soon the arm will bind without a pivoting joint at the crossmember. That's not what it was designed to do anyway.

Wisefab is nice because it's bolt in and go. You've got a product engineered to work one way and it does that very well.
.

You might have missed that wisefab arm has spacers on tension rod side to adjust caster

[VegasDrifterS13]

Originally Posted by Motary

You might have missed that wisefab arm has spacers on tension rod side to adjust caster

And it has ackerman adjustment on the car without alignment issues. I might just save more and buy it. Id be the only one in Vegas with it.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by Motary

You might have missed that wisefab arm has spacers on tension rod side to adjust caster

Interesting, I did not know this, and have never seen it explained, which they do a good job of. Must have been one of those things they snuck in there with product development .

[Matej]

Would it be possible to compile a list for the first page of how each change to one of the front and rear suspension characteristics (ride height/camber/toe/caster/etc.) affects the others?
For example, adding negative camber in the rear adds toe-in and caster, and probably other stuff.

I know there a lot of factors and it has all been said before, but it would be nice to have a general reference guide for the S-chassis suspension behaviour.

[Matej]

Also, this one time, years ago, I pressed the ball joints into my FLCA's upside down, and I ran the tension rods and FLCA's upside down (on the opposite side of course), because I thought that the FLCA-to-knuckle angle would be easier on the ball joint on an over-lowered car where the arm points straight up.
[/embarrassingsecret]

[InsTanCeZ]

Originally Posted by Matej

Would it be possible to compile a list for the first page of how each change to one of the front and rear suspension characteristics (ride height/camber/toe/caster/etc.) affects the others?
For example, adding negative camber in the rear adds toe-in and caster, and probably other stuff.

I know there a lot of factors and it has all been said before, but it would be nice to have a general reference guide for the S-chassis suspension behaviour.

Yeah this would be awesome. I've learned so much about suspension in general just from being into s-chassis and from this thread. I hope this information is relevant when it comes to other cars though. I don't really know how a multilink front suspension works though. But I have some idea I guess lol.

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[JDMcheddar]

Originally Posted by Matej

Would it be possible to compile a list for the first page of how each change to one of the front and rear suspension characteristics (ride height/camber/toe/caster/etc.) affects the others?
For example, adding negative camber in the rear adds toe-in and caster, and probably other stuff.

I know there a lot of factors and it has all been said before, but it would be nice to have a general reference guide for the S-chassis suspension behaviour.

If you look on MOTO IQ, Kojima has a lot of information on how different
settings make the car handle.
http://http://www.motoiq.com/Tech/Th...Handeling.aspx

[az_240]

^link doesn't work...

nvm... had to google it to get it to work... shame it's not really S-chassis specific.

[powahh]

Originally Posted by Motary

Yes, but it will be single adjuster so you need to take out the bolt from tension rod and turn the rod end out. I can make double adjuster ones too but that adds about 15 dollars to the price

Make it double adjustable and ill paypal you the money right now.

[powahh]

Originally Posted by Motary

Prototype model ^

3 people have shown interest in buying them, which means 7 pairs are still available for booking!

first ten pairs are priced at 150 USD plus shipping.

60 degrees of trailing wheel angle

Seriously, i want/need asap

[powahh]

Originally Posted by N8 of S-Empire

its not the only one. i will be releasing this soon. in the finaly prototype phases. this bar can be seen on Joon Maengs current 2013 240sx drift car. so yes it clears LS1 It actualy hits the PSM FLCA before my swaybar You can also see the additional rates which can be swaped out for more tuning options.

I need this too!

[VegasDrifterS13]

I am putting a threaded rack spacer on with 25mm extended S14 LCAs and 25mm roll center corrected cut spindles. I Have Tein Inner and Outer tie rods.

Should I run 2 Rack Spacers or Longer Inner rods?

[Motary]

Originally Posted by powahh

Seriously, i want/need asap

Had one cut out before christmas, the price will be 165 USD because it is more expensive to make these than I had first calculated and they will be with double adjusters

[Johnny_K]

Not sure if this was ever posted or not but 96 Nissan maxima tie rods vs Megan s14. The Maximas were $21 each at orelieys

[Ryan_1]

I want to extend my front lower control arms on my s14. I was thinking 25mm. all I have in front suspension wise is bc coilovers and hardrace castor rods. I heard all I will need to suit is Maxima tie rod ends. What year model is best to get?

[PoorMans180SX]

See above...........

[Ryan_1]

im tlkin about the tie rod ends?

[PoorMans180SX]

Nope, you need maxima inners and S14 ends.

[Ryan_1]

I got told all i will need is maxima tie rods ends which are longer then S14 ends.

[kewilso3]

Read one page back you lazy ****

Originally Posted by Black240Ct

get 1990 maxima outer tie rods. these are the same as s14, but the maxima's are 5 inches long not the 3.5 est. that s14's are.

heres an updated pic.

left is an s13 outer (same legth as an s14) and on the right is the 1990 maxima

[Ryan_1]

thanks so that should be alrite to to extend the laca 25mm

[dftsilvia]

^yo for real??? read the fucking thread lazy ass

[Chris28]

Originally Posted by Motary

Had one cut out before christmas, the price will be 165 USD because it is more expensive to make these than I had first calculated and they will be with double adjusters

Still ready to purchase a set when you have them made

[Def]

Originally Posted by Motary

Had one cut out before christmas, the price will be 165 USD because it is more expensive to make these than I had first calculated and they will be with double adjusters

Just a minor nitpick, but the final "tear drop" cut out would be stronger if the metal remaining was more inline with the stresses going through the arm. Basically it should form a triangle and not a bent curve. (not saying it'll fail, just friendly advice)

[Black R]

Originally Posted by Nategreat923

And its really not difficult to do, only took us a few hours to do mine.

I have a question with the GKTech roll center correction kit, would I need to run extended tie rod ends?

Best way to move the rack forward?

Is there a "rack forwarding kit" readily available?

[JDMcheddar]

Originally Posted by Black R

Best way to move the rack forward?

Is there a "rack forwarding kit" readily available?

??????????up Super Steering Angle Parts - Parts Shop MAX

Eccentric bushings.

They are probably the closest you'll get without actually moving your rack forward.

[Black R]

Has anyone received their gktech bolt-on roll center / bump steer / steering angle kit yet?

They are supposed to be arriving end of january.

[Bink Industries]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

Do you run a front anti-roll bar? I think that's what I'm most concerned about, the balance of the car without a front bar. I also really don't like body roll.

I've driven several S-chassis with different rates, but I only have a lot of time in my old personal cars with 12/10 and 10/8, neither of which had any roll center correction and had front bars. No body roll was great, but the 12/10 Megan tracks were just far too stiff for the chassis, and the Tein Super Drifts just rode terrible. I had Fortune Auto Version 1's with 9/8 springs but I drove the car once before I sold it .

That's why I ask, I don't have much experience with the new, much better valved coilovers that are available now.

Odi makes great stuff.its Feal Suspension. His valving is awesome. I put them on Joon Maengs 240sx and it made a HUGE difference. more grip more control, the car just looked more settled. I was skeptical as always using a new product but man I recommend to anyone. as far as spring rates go it really depends on total set up as a complete package. you can go SUPER soft with big bars or STIFF with light bars. weight distribution has a big effect on what your springs should be also. if your closer to 50/50 then I would say 6k rear should be good if you closer to stock weight in rear 5k would be best. the front is very hard to tell as I have found that every driver seems to prefer something different. some like to have the front end squash and weight transfer others like very snappy tight front and and use brake bias to do that for them. no real "wrong way" just driver preference.
hope this helps

[conrad_s13.5]

Originally Posted by Black R

Has anyone received their gktech bolt-on roll center / bump steer / steering angle kit yet?

They are supposed to be arriving end of january.

Edit: Nevermind, thought we were talking about a different gktech piece